hi, i am brian and im new to dodgetalk. the reason i am posting is becasue a buddy of mine is selling a 1990 dodge dynasty with the same 3.0L 12V SOHC V6 that is in the early caravans. i believe it is the sohc 6g72 engine?? well anyways, he is selling the car for 200 bucks and it was his grandmas car and has 70k on it and is in great condition except for a blow head gasket which is why it is so cheap. i was wondering if any of you could explain how to replace a head gasket on this engine, or how easy/difficult it would be, or where i could find directions on how to do it. i am in need of another car right now that will last me 6 months untill i go to college. thank you very much!!
McClane
02-23-2006, 10:32 AM
correct me if i'm wrong, but fixing the head gasket requires removing the head, which also means taking apart half the engine.
The gasket itself is cheap, but there is quite abit of labour involved.
XDGT03
02-23-2006, 12:33 PM
I think the rule of thumb on this would be if you have to ask then you shouldn't do it. It is pretty involved and you could seriously damage many things including the head.
However, if you really want to do it then the first choice would be to get the OE dodge repair manual for that vehicle. If you cannot get one of those then a Chilton/Haynes manual will do. You will need a variety of tools. You will not be able to do it with just a socket set, combo wrenches, pliars, and screwdrivers. You would also want to get the head redone while it is off too. This will add a few hundred to the overall cost but it is one of those rules of thumbs again. Like if you are changing the timing belt (when was it changed last on this vehicle?) then change the water pump and tensioner pulley at the same time. And remember you will have to get an upper gasket set. I'm not sure how much that costs but you cannot do it with just the head gasket.
The final option is to pay someone to do it. If you know a good mechanic then it will probably be $600 to $1000. If you had to take it to the dealer you can double that.
Good Luck
marvinmoon
02-23-2006, 01:08 PM
Recommend you go to any auto store ie: Checker Auto Zone etc and purchase a Chilton or Hayes manuel which will give blow by blow instructions on how to self help. Aslso recommend rep;acing both now rather than one If your engine is a v configeration ... otherwise it wil haunt you later. Be sire to have the heads checked for warp and be aware that if warped too much can't be milled and will require new engine or block?
Good Luck
gas28man
02-23-2006, 02:05 PM
Replacing a cylinder head on a SOHC V6 isn't the worst job a shadetree mechanic will ever do in terms of degree of difficulty It's just really time-consuming.
One thing, though. A lot of people will tell you the head gasket is blown, when really there's a cracked cylinder head, or worse, a cracked block. Tough to tell until you get it apart. Be prepared to go shopping for a rebuilt cylinder head. You can probably pick one up for under $200. For this engine, they are not that hard to find at a reasonable price. I got a really nice cylinder head for a 1.5-liter 4-cyl Mitsubishi engine for $105, ready to bolt on.
The upside: no rusted-on parts, unless you count the exhaust manifold. Everything comes apart easily enough.
The downside: It's messy. You have to drain every fluid and keep track of all the little parts. I put them in baggies or margarine tubs and mark them. And getting gaskets in the right place while you start the bolts on various parts can be a gravity-defying act.
The tricky part: You'll have to take off the timing belt (might as well put on a new one) and reassembling so that the timing is correct can be very tricky. One tooth off, and it will run badly. A couple off, and it won't even start. And you won't be able to fix it without tearing it all apart again. Go to a craft store, and have someone show you to the selection of paint pens (they're 2-3 bucks). Get one in bright white or yellow and use it to mark the timing BEFORE you disassemble.
Most of the advice in the other posts is good. I would highly recommend getting the factory manual for this job, although a Haynes or Chilton will get you buy. One tool that hasn't been mentioned that you can't do this job without is a torque wrench. You MUST follow torque specs when reassembling or you'll ruin your work.
Good luck, and let us know what you end up doing.
Rick
acton mike
02-23-2006, 10:16 PM
clean the engine and engine bay as thoroughly as possible to remove as much built up oil, grease and swarf before you start
as you take pieces off, clean off grease and dirt
If you can get hold of a digital camera, take pictures of things before you take them apart. It is amazing how different parts look when they are sperated from their freinds and it is not a good idea to depend on remmebering how things go back together.
good luck
chrisds
02-24-2006, 11:31 PM
Just did mine, I had a crack head and blowed gasket. Also changed out my crankshaft oil seal. It is just a puzzle, its not that hard it just takes time. what I did before I started the job is put engine at top dead center than mark where your rotor is pointing on your distributor. That will make it so easy to drop your distributor when done. and most important is when installing your timing belt make sure the dots on the crankshaft sproket and both cam shaft sproket is lined up, when you have it lined up turn the engine clock wise a couple rotations to make sure it stays lined up.
I would have your heads checked at a shop, I payed 200 bucks, for repairing crack and valve job. Also you need a head gasket kit which I payed 90 buck.
So if you change timing belt, waterpump, and sparkplugs it may cost you a little more.
Get a manual and torq everything to spec.
Good luck
install valve covers last, so before starting engine for the first time pure some motor oil all over you cam and rockers, than install valve covers.
acton mike
03-01-2006, 10:48 AM
many of the fasteners in the top end of the engine are torqued in inch-pounds
be sure to get a torque wrench that vreads inch pounds as well as one that reads in ft-pounds
the last thing you want to do is strip out or bugger the thread in the alluminum alloy pieces and that is why it is very importatnt to torque properly
