Ok I just purchased a new 92 Caravan. 3.3 V6. (Vin comes up as a Grand caravan se but it has none of the markings)
This Van came with absolutely no information with it other then "look and see".
So if you can piunt me somewhere I can find al the information for checking the idiot lights and checking the trouble codes and whatnot I woudl be greatfull.
I need to now replace the front brack caliper, and rotors due to the last guy not replacing them correctly lol.
So any info for a new Caravan owner would be much apreciated.
Ok and maybe a question I should have already asked.
But how do I get into the diagnostic mode?
I do have an engine service light on so I want to find out what that is.
gas28man
12-18-2005, 01:45 AM
With your van, you can obtain the trouble codes by sticking the key in the ignition and turning it from OFF to RUN (not START), three times in a row. In other words, ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON. Then watch your "service engine" light and count the flashes and pauses. It will flash out your trouble codes as a sequence of paired numbers. For example, three flashes, a pause and four flashes means Code 34. When there are no more codes, it will flash five times, pause, and then five times. That's Code 55, which means you're done.
For a list of what the codes mean, refer to the link in the post from RAM MAN above.
Good luck and let us know what happens.
Rick
flyingwolf
12-18-2005, 03:15 AM
Thank ya very much, Will be out there on it tomorrow so I will let you know.
Chet42
12-19-2005, 12:19 AM
Here is a list of codes for Chrysler from 1990 to 1997 for Chrysler and instructions on how to obtain them and what each means. Starting in 1997 Chrysler went to a OBDC-III code system and on some vehicles you needed a scan tool to access the codes.
Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. (On is *not* start!)
The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH (pause) FLASH FLASH FLASH (loong pause)
It will never flash more than 9 times, watch for pauses!
55 is end of codes - it's normal. Before you call your dealer or mechanic, consider that the blink-spacing is not always perfectly uniform, so if you see 23 23, it's probably just a single 55. (Codes are not repeated.)
33 is normal on earlier models if you don't have air conditioning. The older Vipers will blink out diag codes with four off/on key turns. They removed the capability starting in... I think 2000, at any rate I know my neigbours 2001 caravan requires a scan tool to check the codes.
On some models (such as a 1995 Neon), when the check engine light goes on, you may be able to get the codes simply by putting in the key and moving it to the RUN position; the light will blink out the codes by itself.
Please note that some codes are NOT included below, this is not a complete listing, but it IS very close to complete. It stems from a list posted on the Mopar Mailing List for each model year starting in 1991 and i think through to 1997.
* Activates Power Limited/Check Engine light on some models.
IMPORTANT. Codes may be different for newer vehicles starting in the late 1990s and some vehicles required a scan tool to recover any trouble codes.
11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Can cause the engine to stop working entirely with no limp-home mode.
12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
13* MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working
14* MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V
15 No speed/distance sensor signal
16* Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
17 Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?)
17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit
21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V). Probably bad oxygen sensor
22* Coolant sensor signal out of range - May have been disconnected to set timing
23* Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad
24* Throttle position sensor over 4.96V (SEE NOTE #3)
25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle not reached, vacuum leak found
26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached (need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors) (SEE NOTE #4 BELOW)
27 Injector circuit isn't switching when it's told to (TBI)
OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right
OR (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right
OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding
- check computer, connections
31 Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver
32 (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit
32 EGR gases not working (1988) - check vacuum, valve
32 (1990-92, all but Turbo) computer didn't see change in air/'fuel ratio when EGR activated - check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical
33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
34 (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open
34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open
35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
35 (trucks) idle switch motor fault - check connections
36 (turbo) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
36 (3.9/5.2 RWD) solenoid coil circuit (air switching)
36 (Turbo IV) #3 Vent Solenoid open/short
37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed
OR
part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89)
OR
solenoid coil circuit (85-89 Turbo I-IV)
OR
Trans temperature sensor voltage low (1995 and on; see NOTE 2)
41* Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles
OR
42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (SEE NOTE #6)
43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time
OR
43 Cylinder misfire
OR
43 Problem in power module to logic module interface
44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
OR
44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem
OR
44 Battery temperature out of range (see Note #1!)
45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
46* Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system voltage too low
47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low
51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position (Bob Lincoln wrote: may be tripped by a bad MAP sensor system causing a rich condition, and the O2 sensor trying to compensate. The O2 sensor may still be good. The MAP assembly consists of two pieces, the valve and the vacuum transducer (round plastic unit with cylinder on top and both electrical and vacuum connections) - If you get hot rough idle and stalling, especially on deceleration, accompanied by flooded engine and difficulty restarting, that can be a bad MAP sensor causing the O2 sensor to try to compensate. If you get poor cold driveability, stumbling and bucking, and acceptable warm driving with poor gas mileage (a drop of 10 mpg or more), that is usually the O2 sensor. [Webmaster note: MAP sensors seem to die regularly.]
OR
51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only).
52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position (SEE NOTE #5!)
OR
52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
53 Logic module internal problem
54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)
OR
54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only) - or camshaft sensor/distributor timing (7)
55 End of codes
61 "Baro" sensor open or shorted
62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM
64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65 Power steering switch failure
NOTE #1.The power module has an air-cooled resistor which senses incoming air temperature. The logic modules uses this information to control the field current in the alternator. This code applies ONLY to alternators whose voltage is computer regulated. If you lose the feed to keep RAM information stored when the engine's off, you also lose battery voltage sensing. -- Bohdan Bodnar
NOTE #2.From the 1995 TRUCK manuals: the trailer towing package includes a transmission coolant temp sensor while the standard package doesn't. This may cause the low (no) voltage indication. -- J.E. Winburn
NOTE #3.Matt Rowe comments: The throttle postion circuit tells the computer how far the accelerator is depressed. The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is on the throttle body on the opposite side of the throttle cable. The connector should have a round rubber cover over the connections. Clear the fault codes, start the car and try jiggling the wires/connectors to try to trip a fault code. Loss of this signal could cause other problems.
NOTE #4.During cranking, the computer will test the current through the injector to see whether there's too much resistance in the injector's path. If there is, code 26 is set.
The problem may be cured with tuner cleaner on the connectors.
For TBI engines, the injector's cold resistance should be between 0.9 and 1.2 ohms (specs vary with year). This is a peak-and-hold injector. With the engine idling the peak period should be about 1.2 milliseconds whereas the hold period will vary. If it's lower than this at idle, then the injector's shorted or there's a defect in the injector driver circuit. (Bohdan Bodnar)
NOTE #5.Wade Goldman wrote: In my case, the breather tube leading into the catalytic converter had rusted and become detached. This some how would cause the sensor to read an over rich condition and run crummy. I did not trust the reliability of the weld over a corroded surface and opted for the more expensive route of replacing the converter, breather tube and all.
NOTE #6.The Z1 voltage is the voltage of the circuits fed by the autoshutdown relay. This typically includes fuel pump and switched-battery feed to the ignition coil(s). In my Le Baron, the Z1 circuit leaves the power module and splits into two paths: the fuel pump and the positive side of the ignition coil. Internal to the power module is the auto shutdown relay (in my case, it's a sealed box about 1" by 1"). The output voltage is monitored to determine whether the relay responds correctly. I suspect that the ASD relay (and, therefore, the Z1 circuit) also feeds the fuel injector(s) driver(s) and current sensing circuit, but can't prove this.
I've used the Z1 voltage to test for good power connections to the power module. I connected my OTC 500 multimeter from the battery's positive post to the ignition coil's switched battery terminal and measured the voltage drop using the bar graph to monitor peak voltages. Voltage spikes of around 200 mV to 300 mV are ok -- anything more means tv tuner cleaner time (or replacing the power module). Another thing to check is the maximum voltage drop during the priming pulse. With the old power module, I was losing about 2 volts across the circuit; the replacement is losing about 1/4 volt. (Thanks, bbodnar@lucent.com)
Note #7 Steve Knickerbocker wrote: Inside your distributor you have two pickups, one is for the ignition and one is to tell the computer where number one cylinder is in its rotation. If you look at the four slotted tangs inside there you will see one has a bigger slot, that's the one that tells the sync pickup what's number one. In other words, the pickup inside the distributor is bad.
Regards
Chet.
flyingwolf
12-20-2005, 12:33 AM
Thanks for the info there, I have been doing allot of reading on these old 3.3's.
They seem to be good solid reliable vehicles.
Plan on getting in there tomorrow and going over the car with a fine toothed comb. Cleaning marking and replacing everything that is worn or ready for replacements.
Seems I should be able to get a good amount of miles out of this engine.
The transmission was just replaced before I got it and only has about 1000 miles on it so I should be good to go there.
Have to drop about 300 on full new brakes all around (calipers, rotors, drums, pads and bearings.)
All in all not bad to be able to replace four wheels all around with all new parts for less then 500.
Thanks for all the help on here.
And if anyone could tel me two things I would be very happy.
1. Where can I find Schematic, diagrams for the hose routing and wiring on this vehicle? I found the hose diagram in the files section but nothing on wiring.
And.
2. What in gods name is the "Vent Right" and "Vent Left" switches on the roof control panel supposed to control?
I have yet to figure that one out lol.
So if someone has a link to a PDF of the owners manual (or could scan and make one) I would be very grateful.
gas28man
12-20-2005, 03:15 PM
The vent-right and vent-left controls open and close your rear power vent windows (the big side ones in the rear). If the switches are there, they should work the windows. I don't think Chrysler has been in the habit of putting dummy switches in their cars for options they're not equipped with (unlike some European manufacturers I've seen). I bought the Chilton's manual for 96-00 minivans, and it had a section of usable electrical schematics--not the best I've seen, but helpful for my meager needs.
Good luck.
Rick
flyingwolf
12-20-2005, 08:45 PM
Kewl thank you.
I noticed the one side was open and thought that may be it, yet when using the switches neither of them moved.
So I ended up shutting the one by hand, while it was a little bit hard, it did shut with little effort.
