I have a 95 neon Manual TRans and would like to do some maintenance on my own. I would likr to change the spark plug and would likr to know what kind of plug to use. I read in the forum and a few said that the Autolite is good but anyone know what number 3923 or 3924? Also they said that platinum is not good for the neon. What size gap to put on the plug?
Lately when I have the air conditioner running and when I took my foot of the gas padel the engine sort of rev up a few hundred rmp for a few second and the it dies down to idleing rmp. Can some one tell me what is wrong? also how to use seafoam to clean the trottle body? I think it needs a thorought clean of the tb. :help:
Any help is very much appreciated. Thanks
Lew360
09-16-2005, 01:17 PM
The autoite 3923 are what I use in both my Neon and my Dakota. There should be a sticker under the hood that lists plug gap.
Sounds like you need to clean the t-body with special attention to the IAC motor. Remove the t-body and then remove the IAC valve. Clean all very well just make sure you don't move the IAC plunger. Moving the plunger could cause more idle problems.
dodgeneonACR98
09-16-2005, 03:23 PM
Don't buy nothing special. The neons tend to run the best on the regular stock replacement Copper plugs.The autostore should be able to give you the correct gap for them on your car.
My car does that with the AC on or defrost. It don't happen all the time but it is annoying isnt it. You can remove the T/B and the sensors off it and clean them but that is what started my problem I think I screwed up the sensor with the cleaner. The intake air control IAC is probablly bad and I don't imagine cleaning it will help but if it does you saved yourself a few bucks.If not go get another one. Hope you get it straight. Mine been messed like that for a year or better. But I rarely use the ac or defrost. If I do I usually shut it off before I push in the clutch. :rck:
rice_eater
09-16-2005, 09:09 PM
I have the same problem you guys are talking about... high idle with the defrost or a/c on. when i push in the clutch to coast to a light, the engine will not drop below 1300-1400 rpm. at a stop it idles at around 1100rpm. I was completely baffled until just recently. I think i know what the problem is. Check your freon in the a/c pump. (which means go get your a/c charged) I havent done it yet because i havent had time but i'm pretty sure thats the problem. I'm going to charge it this weekend.
My reasoning behind this is simple. my a/c hasnt been working well at all, barely cold and cycles constantly. this is because (i'm nearly positive of this) i am out, or nearly out of freon. this causes the pump to cycle constantly trying to cool the car. (if your car does this fix it asap cuz you'll fry your pump). The reason it idles poorly with the defrost on as well is simple. your a/c pump runs when you have your defrost on. it helps to dry out the air, thus defrosting your windshield faster than if it were simply the damp air from outside. I'm nearly positive of this and will let you know if i'm right after i get my a/c charged (hopefully this weekend).
Also i'm told you can unplug a wire to your a/c pump and then turn on the defrost. pulling the wire disables the a/c when on defrost, so the defroster uses just regular outside air. so if your idle is normal after you do that i would assume your problem is low freon in the pump. Not positive on this but pretty sure. If anyone knows i'm wrong please correct me. Anyway, i dont think its a t/b problem if it only happens when u have the defrost or a/c on.
dodgeneonACR98
09-17-2005, 09:20 AM
That sounds like a good asumption too me to now that you mention the AC being full or empty....Mine is def empty,,,,but they don't use freeon anymore. You can recharge it yourself if you but the kit at the autostore. I have in other cars. The new stuff is 134 R .I believe.
I am aware of the AC running while in defrost mode. There is however a way around that and it don't include unplugging it. Ill see if I can dig up the how to later.
with this way it will still work on AC mode.
rice_eater
09-17-2005, 01:38 PM
Yes, your right. I forgot what it was called so i just called it freon. They do all use R 134 now.
BTW, about neons responding best to regular copper plugs rather than platinum, do they run worse on platinum or just the same, which wouldnt justify the extra money for platinum? I was looking into NGK Iradium plugs, does anyone know if i'll see a difference at all, gas mileage or power?
dodgeneonACR98
09-17-2005, 04:53 PM
It dont matter what plug you choose you wont feel a difference unless your old ones weren't up to PAR.They tend to run the best (most reliable) on the coppers. The irridium plugs will work fine, but I cant see it being worth the extra cash.
The Platinum plugs ar about worthless in the Neons,don't go there.If you do want different plugs other than the stock coppers.Get the irridium I hear good things about them.
I don't take Gary Howell's word as gospel, but at Howell automotive they put ACCELL U-Groove plugs in their Neons.That is what im running now. Seem to be alright plugs to me so far.But I change them once a year rather they need it or not.
GOOD LUCK
beezee28
09-18-2005, 11:37 AM
OK, so i get the copper plug for my neon, no problem will do this coming weekend.
Now to clean the tb, I read that seafoam does a good job on some of the forum but main it clean the carbon on the heads. What kind of cleaner do I use to clean the tb. Any insight?? :help:
I have to admit that I am not so well versed in engine but I can follow instruction. Where is the IAC located in the tb? What does it look like? and what does the IAC plugger looks like.
I had the a/c charge and it is full according and it still does the same thing, high rev when depressing the clutch and then drop back to normal when a/c is running on the road.
Hopefully after cleaning the tb it would solve this irritating problem.
