REDUCTION IN ACCELERATION WITH 22" WHEELS

[Matrix]

Please can someone help with this.

I have a Magnum RT with 18" stock wheels. I truly LOVE IT!!!
I am ready to add 22" chrome wheels, however the wheel people that I went to see said that I will notice a reduction in acceleration with the 22's.

Is this correct, is it that noticable? I am a performance freak and will just die if I cant get off the mark as quickly as I normally do. I can't sacrifice that.

Please, if you had 18" and changed to 22" what did you experience?

Please post as many replies as you can, I am sure there are many people that need to know this.

Also, what tire specs should go on 22's, some say 265/30/22 others say 265/35/22. Which is the right choice without change to the computer?

Thank you!!

[blackarmy]

I'm no mechanic but basically the bigger the tire the more the car has to "push" its self to make the wheel go round. Also I heard some one say that with the bigger rims your mileage meter thingy is also a little off i think?

[75 Power Wagon]

it depends on what the actual diameter of your tires are.. not just bigger rims.. but say you have 18 rims with 20 tires.. its 20.. and then say you get 22s with 24 tires.. then your speedo will be off.

But i think the added weight of the rims may slow your car down a bit, i don't know how much or anyting though.

[Matrix]

Thanks the75powerwagon for your post.
Does ANYONE know the weight of the stock rims+tires.
If I get 22's and keep weight close to the stock... and keep the o/d of the tires the same, surely I cant lose acceleration.... or am I just wrong with this theory?

[Silver]

The number of revs/mile is what determines how accurate the speedo will be with the new tires. Continental says that our tires are 734 revs/mile. The spec sheet on a tire you are considering will tell you the revs/mile for that tire.

It looks like the 265/30-22's will be a nearly perfect match with weight and revs/mile. The weight of the wheels and the fact that the weight is further out from the center will then become the deciding factors on performance. Good luck and post some pictures when you get your new wheels and tires!

[MAGNUM FORCE]

Any chromed steel wheels will be heavier. I got 20" D'Vinci Havocs, which are chromed steel, and they are considerably heavier, maybe 10lbs heavier each. My tire diameter also increased by half an inch, and yes, there is a slight difference. Still a fast car. My mileage may have increased slightly though on the freeway.

The only wheel that will come close to your stock ones will have to be a polished aluminum wheel, most likely a billet type wheel.

[done]

Assumig that you retain the stock diameter, any adverse effect would be in the hundreths of a scond range. Unless you are getting forged wheels, the new wheel tire combo will add 10 to 15 pounds per wheel. This extra weight will have more effect on ride and handling than acceleration performance.

[VegasLightz]

It's absolutely true the heavier the wheels, the more HP it will take to move the mass. Think about how much energy it would take you to push a huge tractor tire compared to the energy it would take you to push a bicycle tire. Is the difference in weight enough that you would notice driving your car on a daily basis, more than likely not. It's like putting groceries in your car, you really don't notice the weight difference in normal driving.

Here's a good tire wheel size comparison chart that simple to use:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalcold.html

[blackarmy]

I forget where but I saw some chrome rims that weight 1 pound a piece.

[MAGNUM FORCE]

Was it Hot Wheels?

[dantodd]

Here's the deal. You will take a double or triple perforamnce hit on going to 22" wheels.

First hit is the absolute weight of the wheels. 22" wheels will almost certainly weigh more than the stock 18" wheels because it takes much more material to form the rim. Also steel chromed wheels which is what most 22's are made of weighs much more than aluminum.

Second hit which you will take (and the hardest one to understand) is the rotational moment of the wheel is certainly higher than the 18" rims. The further from the center of the wheel the mass is the greater the energy required to get the mass moving. A good example of this is figure skating. If you've ever seen a figure skater doing a spin. The further from her body the mass is (sticking arms and free leg out) the slower the rotation. The closer to the body her mass is (pulling in arms and leg) the faster she spins without having to increase the energy input. You can also think of the wheel as a circuar lever, the further out the mass is on the lever the harder it is to support or move the mass, against gravity.

Third hit which you may or may not have is a change in tire diameter. Tires that are bigger in diameter will require more torque to get them to rotate. You might pick up a little top end but you are in essense changing the gearing of the car to the detriment of low end acceleration.

[Matrix]

Here's the deal. You will take a double or triple perforamnce hit on going to 22" wheels.

First hit is the absolute weight of the wheels. 22" wheels will almost certainly weigh more than the stock 18" wheels because it takes much more material to form the rim. Also steel chromed wheels which is what most 22's are made of weighs much more than aluminum.

Second hit which you will take (and the hardest one to understand) is the rotational moment of the wheel is certainly higher than the 18" rims. The further from the center of the wheel the mass is the greater the energy required to get the mass moving. A good example of this is figure skating. If you've ever seen a figure skater doing a spin. The further from her body the mass is (sticking arms and free leg out) the slower the rotation. The closer to the body her mass is (pulling in arms and leg) the faster she spins without having to increase the energy input. You can also think of the wheel as a circuar lever, the further out the mass is on the lever the harder it is to support or move the mass, against gravity.

Third hit which you may or may not have is a change in tire diameter. Tires that are bigger in diameter will require more torque to get them to rotate. You might pick up a little top end but you are in essense changing the gearing of the car to the detriment of low end acceleration.


Dantodd, that was well put. Whilst I accept and understand the physics of all of this, to what degree has anyone that changed from 18" to 22" experienced a loss in acc? Is it that noticable and is the cool looking trade off actually worth the $5000 investment?

I am sure that I would be able to find 3 spoke 22" wheels so the weight would come down relatively. Whilst the centre of gravity (c.o.g) is at the axis, the centre of mass from the axis to the rim is somewhere along that line. Ideally we want to keep that c.o.m as close to the axis also. Thus, all the wheels where the spokes get wider towards the wheel edges increases the (c.o.m from the axis to the edge) nearer the rim edge, hence drop in acc. Spokes that taper down at the the edges, (ie more mass in the centre) have c.o.m closer to the wheel axis and hence the acc will be better.

So, if I can find a 3 spoke wheel in 22" that tapers towards the edges (IE c.o.m close as possible to the axis) I will definitely buy them. Does one even exist?

Anyone know of any make/models that can meet these criteria?

Thanks.

[dantodd]

That's the real question I guess. After all the SRT folks decided that 20" wheels were worth whatever losses tehy might create in straight line performance. I suspect that running the quarter with your gas tank half empty and the garden implement removed from the back would make as much difference as 18" vs. 20" wheels.

Also, a lower profile tire will, to some degree improve handling in other areas, less sidewall give means better adhesion and a larger traction patch on the ground during cornering. you trae off one for another.

The difference (In my guesstimation) will be about the same as there is variation from engine to engine in the RTs. So if you have a "fast" engine/PCM combo then maybe you'll now ride like slow engine/pcm combo. You'll still take down most anything from a stop light. If you really like the look of 22's then go for it, you ain't racing this thing anway, right? If you are racing then get some cheapy 18" wheels and put slicks on them for the drag strip!

My math and insterest are not to the level that I'll be claculating the exact losses :)

[MattRobertson]

Isn't there also an issue associated with the wheels being "unspung" weight? Someone at some point -- a lot smarter than I am -- gave calculations and specifics on why weight on the 'bottom' side of the suspension was worse than weight on the 'top' side by a certain ugly multiplier.

As for speed, I've heard stories of guys running 18's whomping guys on 22's here. I did it once myself (I have chromed 18s, which are heavier than the 22 lb stock alloys but not by too much). Ran up a couple of car lengths over a fairly short distance. However for all I know the guy was an idgit and couldn't drive.

[qzking]

Dan,
Didn't that make for this with gearing?
KK

After all the SRT folks decided that 20" wheels were worth whatever losses tehy might create in straight line performance:)

[done]

Stock 18 rim is 23 lbs, stock Conti is 32 pounds. A Pirrelli 22" is 33 pounds. Good forged rims will be in the 25 pound range, cast wheels around 30 to 35. So the 22's could be be from 2 to 12 punds heavier and will indeed have a higher moment of inertia. But it is meaningless because you are not spinning the tires in a vacuum. You are launching 4400 pounds of car, driver and gas (more for some of you big guys). The pressure you run in your tires will have more effect than the weight on straght line performance.

The additional unsprung weight and skinny tires will give you stiffer ride, but so will running 40 lbs of air.

This discussion is much ado about nothing, I think.

But if you want to pursue it, take a look at:

http://online.cctt.org/physicslab/content/PhyAPB/lessonnotes/angularmomentum/lessonangularmomentum.asp

[kstompaint]

I think this is being over thought a bit. After all, the SRT10 Ram has factory 22s and they run better than I can describe (I have driven one). If you are not drag racing and counting thousanths of a second, dont worry about it. I have 22s on my Turbo Diesel and it runs and tows the same as it did stock (only it looks way better). Also, you can do this wheel swap for WAY less than $5k. If you go cast chrome, you should be able to do it for $2500. If you go 2-piece billet polished it will be more like $4000. You cant go from retail prices because if you shop around, you can get a better deal.

If you're a performance junkie, consider the additional handling characteristics you will get with the larger wheel (did I mention it will look better?)

Tires... 300 guys seem to be using the 265-35-22 which is a 29.3 O.D. and thats what I ordered for my lowered Chevy Colorado. 265-40-22 is 30.3 O.D.

[MAGNUM FORCE]

This discussion is much ado about nothing, I think.

I respectfully disagree. I think it's a legitimate question. I noticed a difference in acceleration after installing my chrome 20's. Partly due to the added weight (which is rotational and unsprung), and also the taller tire diameter affecting the final drive ratio.

If there was nothing to it, racers would not have been using lightweight racing wheels all these years. And an inch difference in tire diameter can have the same effect as swapping a set of gears in the differential.

In answer to your question, Matrix, I noticed a slight difference in acceleration, but it was definitely worth the tradeoff for improved looks. My handling has improved also (I also lowered the car 1-1/2"). I hate to say it, but IMO the stock-wheeled Magnums look kinda boring now...

[grinner]

my 20s add a good half second on a quarter mile run. 22s would add closer to a full second from the stock rims.

[atwunder]

I have added 22 inch DRIV wheels and Nitto tires...No Loss of Power!! The key is to make sure the wheels and tires weigh the same as or less than (hard to do) the stock package. Heavier wheels and rims will decrease powerto the ground although I am not sure anyone would notice much.... The look of the car is great with 22"s stay away from 20"s....Andy

[done]

I respectfully disagree. I think it's a legitimate question. I noticed a difference in acceleration after installing my chrome 20's. Partly due to the added weight (which is rotational and unsprung), and also the taller tire diameter affecting the final drive ratio.

If there was nothing to it, racers would not have been using lightweight racing wheels all these years. And an inch difference in tire diameter can have the same effect as swapping a set of gears in the differential.

In answer to your question, Matrix, I noticed a slight difference in acceleration, but it was definitely worth the tradeoff for improved looks. My handling has improved also (I also lowered the car 1-1/2"). I hate to say it, but IMO the stock-wheeled Magnums look kinda boring now...

Well, if you change the overall diameter of the tire, yes you will have an noticable affect. Larger will be slower, smaller will be faster. However, the general discussion involved just the weight difference as a factor.

I agree that the serious racers use lighter wheels and lighter everything else, however, you can see some pretty large tires too. My point is that given the actual differnce in weight and moment of inertia, compared to moving the whole car, the difference is insignificant in straight line acceleration. Keep in mind that the tires are not really rotating very fast in the first few feet and that as the revolutions build, then the extra moment of inertia becomes a positive thing, for example duirng the shifts.

So, the actual extra weight is negative, so is running with a full tank or the spare tire still in the well. However, temperature and altitude will have more affect then 50 extra pounds, don't you think. Let alone driver skill.

[MAGNUM FORCE]

Tell you what. If someone out there has a Magnum RT with chromed 20"s or 22"s, and also has their stock wheels & tires laying around, and a nearby track or g-meter handy, go make three runs with each wheel/tire combo and take the average ET from each set of runs. The overall tire diameter needs to be the same, or very close. I'll place a wager that the average of the three runs with stock (lighter) wheels will be at least a tenth of a second quicker than the average of those with the heavier wheels, provided that traction and air temp are consistent. Any takers?

[RoadKill05]

Isn't there also an issue associated with the wheels being "unspung" weight? Someone at some point -- a lot smarter than I am -- gave calculations and specifics on why weight on the 'bottom' side of the suspension was worse than weight on the 'top' side by a certain ugly multiplier.

Yes, rims and tires are "unsprung" weight. This is the worse kind of weight. The figure I remember hearing and such in the racer world 3 times. So if you add 50 lbs of tire weight it's like adding 150 lbs in cargo.

[dantodd]

Dan,
Didn't that make for this with gearing?
KK

Well, the gearing can certainly make up for taller tires at a cost of some top end. I think the issue was the rotational moment of the tires caused by the rims of 20" wheels (greatest amount of weight) is further from the hub thus requiring more torque to overcome Newton.

As Done said, on the street it makes little difference in praticality but if a car with 22's get out run by an identical car with 18's (same tire height etc.) it won't be by a ton but it will make the difference of a kill or being killed.

But then again you can fit bigger brakes inside a 20" rim so you pick up something there.

To me, if you like the looks of 20s or 22s then get them and run 'em. Will it slow the car down? A little; if you stick with stock overalll tire height it's probably less difference than the factory variation of engine performance so it really is in the noise. I haven't done all the calculations but that's just my general feelings on messing with such things.

[kstompaint]

This post is regarding a STREET application. Hundreths of a second are not a priority. I would say that the ride and handling characteristics would be more noticable in daily driving than the miniscule acceleration differences. Like I said, the SRT10 has 22's stock.

There's no way that your acceleration will decline significantly enough that an aftermarket air intake wouldnt more than compensate for it.

Now order up those 22's and start breakin' necks.

[Josh Brown]

I forget where but I saw some chrome rims that weight 1 pound a piece.

Not on a real car

[Mike5959]

I installed my 22s today 285/35/22 on the rear and I honestly don't feel any less acceleration. I can actually spin these tires easier than the stock 18s. I don't know if it was the excitement of installing new wheels but I actually think i felt better response.

[kstompaint]

I know about that excitement thing. I ordered 22s for my Colorado 4x2 and I'm really itching for the truck to pull up! Its addicting.

[Mike5959]

you get a 4 door colorado?

[MAGNUM FORCE]

It's funny how "insignificant" a tenth of a second is on this discussion, but we had numerous discussions and debates on the benefits of the various "cold-air" inductions, and exhaust systems available. How many tenths did anyone shave off there?

Here's an interesting article from Car Craft Magazine (online):
http://www.carcraft.com/projectbuild/1116_9905_wheel/

Going from a stock set of steel rally wheels to a set of centerline aluminum wheels, they shaved a total weight of about 89 pounds, which resulted in a .111 second reduction, and 1.12 mph improvement. Tire diameter was the same in all tests.

That's pretty significant in the drag racing world. And from stoplight to stoplight, it could mean as much as a car length (you'd hate to lose by a car length, wouldn't you?). Of course, no one here actually races their Magnums on the STREET :D .

Since the improvement is also on the top-end (mph), I think that dispells the theory that heavier wheels actually gain momentum and become a positive force.

Once again, I personally noticed a difference going to 20" wheels, and just picking them up, they seemed WAY heavier than the stock wheels. But I do not regret my decision at all, as the looks far outweigh the performance disadvantage.

[done]

It's funny how "insignificant" a tenth of a second is on this discussion, but we had numerous discussions and debates on the benefits of the various "cold-air" inductions, and exhaust systems available. How many tenths did anyone shave off there?

Here's an interesting article from Car Craft Magazine (online):
http://www.carcraft.com/projectbuild/1116_9905_wheel/

Going from a stock set of steel rally wheels to a set of centerline aluminum wheels, they shaved a total weight of about 89 pounds, which resulted in a .111 second reduction, and 1.12 mph improvement. Tire diameter was the same in all tests.

That's pretty significant in the drag racing world. And from stoplight to stoplight, it could mean as much as a car length (you'd hate to lose by a car length, wouldn't you?). Of course, no one here actually races their Magnums on the STREET :D .

Since the improvement is also on the top-end (mph), I think that dispells the theory that heavier wheels actually gain momentum and become a positive force.

Once again, I personally noticed a difference going to 20" wheels, and just picking them up, they seemed WAY heavier than the stock wheels. But I do not regret my decision at all, as the looks far outweigh the performance disadvantage.

A figure that is commonly tossed around is that 100 lbs is worth about a 10th of a second. So that would seem reasonable. The point I was trying to make is that the change in the moment of inertia is insignificant compared to the absolute weight of the wheels and the vehicle itself.

[MAGNUM FORCE]

So you're saying that 100lbs. of rotational weight is no more detrimental than 100lbs. static weight?

[Kid_Magnum]

i just read all these post and might i say that my head feels like its goin to explode. :whackit: all the info in this thread was well worth my head pounding. i am not the original auther of this post but i am thanking all whom posted. you guys are great keep up the good work.

thnx

p.s. 22's it is i dont race but i do like to break necks :rck:

[kstompaint]

Kid_Magnum "p.s. 22's it is i dont race but i do like to break necks."

That was my point! You have to prioritize. To me a SICK lookin' ride out weighs the loss of a 10th of a second... And if you add that cold air intake you can get it right back! (MagnumForce)

[mikesmagrt]

with larger and heavier wheels you will also see a difference in braking . more rotating weight equels longer braking distance . i am currently in search of the best looking and lightest 20" wheel tire combo .

[kstompaint]

That depends on what youre putting them on. My Colorado came with 15's and I am upgrading to 22's... I will need a brake upgrade (after I pay off the Bonspeeds).

Something that comes with 17s+ is probably ok to upgrade to 22s if you dont drive it extremely aggressively, and it's definitely ok to go to 20's.

[flythesky]

I was talking to a guy at the dragstrip last week who put 22" wheels on his 300C and he was disappointed that he was .5sec slower. I don't think you would really feel that on the street though.

[MAGNUM FORCE]

I was talking to a guy at the dragstrip last week who put 22" wheels on his 300C and he was disappointed that he was .5sec slower. I don't think you would really feel that on the street though.A half a second (.5) is a huge difference in my world, and I would sure feel that difference in the seat of the pants. Most of the people on this forum would spend a lot of money to gain .5 seconds in acceleration...

So, I'd be disappointed too.

[flythesky]

A half a second (.5) is a huge difference in my world, and I would sure feel that difference in the seat of the pants. Most of the people on this forum would spend a lot of money to gain .5 seconds in acceleration...

So, I'd be disappointed too.

I've run my Magnum at the strip and the difference between the first run of the day just after I get there and the last runs in the evening when the air is cooler and I let the car cool can be about .4sec. I can feel the difference but on the street you rarely get to floor it from a stop to 50 or 60mph, or at least I can't, living in Los Angeles. Living in a more rural area would probably give you more opportunities. I was really referring to part throttle, in city, driving.

[MattRobertson]

Yeah if I didn't have that half-second that ricer who tried to cut me off yesterday might have gotten away with it. Especially since the loss in giddyap is at the start of your acceleration run when the vehicle is trying to spin up those behemoths. I'll bet that if you look at timeslips the first short distances are WAY under a unit with stock alloys and the later segments are much less different, if any at all. Such a thing would translate to a noticeable loss in street performance since you are not blowing full out in 1/4 mile runs at WOT, but rather use a short burst to get around Grandma or Ricer Boy.

[kupaa]

Question to anyone. I would like to know if the stock brake rotors are ok with 22's? What are the diameter of the stock front and back rotors? Should I go larger rotors? If so, what size? Do I need cross drilled ones? Or will the stock rotors do fine. Cross drilled looks kind of sporty/racey looking, I wouldn't mind getting some. "ONLY" if I need them though. Is there after market rotors yet for our Magnums?

I have an R/T.

Thanks

[SLAPPY]

ive seen the cross drilled rotors on ebay for the mag.

[trsmagnum]

What if you put 15inch rims?

[done]

What if you put 15inch rims?

They won't fit over the rotors. 17's won't even fit.

[revdoctor]

I put 17 inch Borbet wheels and snow tires on my RT.
They're close, but they fit.

[SLAPPY]

please "don't" post any pics of what that looks like.i don't wanna throw up .

[revdoctor]

Geez, Slappy, I didn't realize you were so queasy. The point of the reply was that 17 inch wheels will go over the calipers, albeit with not much room to spare.
As far as aesthetics are concerned, the snows are Michelin Pilot (235x65x17), and they look like they go through the snow like crazy, which they do. The summers are also on Borbet wheels (a little wider than stock), Toyo Proxis ST's (255x50x18VR), and they look like they'll climb a wall, stop on a dime and give you change.
Take two aspirin and call me in the morning for your upset stomach.

[SLAPPY]

just f ing around.im ok i wont hurl. it's all good.

[BillyDsl]

I would reply but I have tears in my eyes and it's had to see..
LMAO :thatfunny

[gray bear]

Please can someone help with this.

I have a Magnum RT with 18" stock wheels. I truly LOVE IT!!!
I am ready to add 22" chrome wheels, however the wheel people that I went to see said that I will notice a reduction in acceleration with the 22's.

Is this correct, is it that noticable? I am a performance freak and will just die if I cant get off the mark as quickly as I normally do. I can't sacrifice that.

Please, if you had 18" and changed to 22" what did you experience?

Please post as many replies as you can, I am sure there are many people that need to know this.

Also, what tire specs should go on 22's, some say 265/30/22 others say 265/35/22. Which is the right choice without change to the computer?

Thank you!!

Try this site http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
it will explain speedo changes as per tire size changes.

[FOURTEEN]

Bottom line for me: "I don't care!"!!

For the last 7 months, almost daily, complete strangers have been telling me some form of: "WOW!! What a beautiful car you have!!"!!

Of all those people, not a single one has said: "Nice car, but I'll bet those big wheels make it slow!!"!!

Some will ask: "Did those wheels come on your car?". To which I usually reply: "No, they were the $4,000 option!!", which results in another "WOW!" or two!!

PS: I have 22x9.5 Status Messiah Chrome Alloy wheels with Pirelli Scorpion Zero 265/35R22 102W tires, which look and perform great!!

PPS: The 22" wheel looks so big because it has 50% more viewing area than the OEM 18" wheel, and 90% more viewing area than a common 16" wheel!!

[qzking]

Pulled my new Mag SRT8 up in front of a restaraunt at the beach this morning and some idiot walked up and said, "What are those? 50 inch rims?" I looked at him and said, "I'm not sure. It came this way from the factory." He did a double take on the 20's and Brembos and walked away mumbling.

Loved it!
KK

Bottom line for me: "I don't care!"!!

For the last 7 months, almost daily, complete strangers have been telling me some form of: "WOW!! What a beautiful car you have!!"!!

Of all those people, not a single one has said: "Nice car, but I'll bet those big wheels make it slow!!"!!

Some will ask: "Did those wheels come on your car?". To which I usually reply: "No, they were the $4,000 option!!", which results in another "WOW!" or two!!

PS: I have 22x9.5 Status Messiah Chrome Alloy wheels with Pirelli Scorpion Zero 265/35R22 102W tires, which look and perform great!!

PPS: The 22" wheel looks so big because it has 50% more viewing area than the OEM 18" wheel, and 90% more viewing area than a common 16" wheel!!

[Kid_Magnum]

Hey Fourteen 1st WOW!!!! That looks Sweet!!! 2nd the the 22X9.5 fit with no problems? I'm takin it that you didnt drop the suspension, or did you? It looks like you still have plenty of room between the tire.

P.S. WOW

[FOURTEEN]

the 22X9.5 fit with no problems?

No problems at all!! One thing that I enjoy is that there is so much space between the spokes that I can reach in and easily clean every visible part of the wheel with my wash mitt!

The OEM tires, 225/60, seem way too small for the 4200# Magnum! My Pontiac GTP used that size, and it only weighed 3500#!! A 102W is much better than a 99H! This Pirelli is also rated as an 'XL' (Extra Load) tire. With relatively soft springs and soft narrow tires the Magnum kind of wallows around! The stiff wide 22s combine with that soft suspension to produce a Magnum with quick reflexes and a smooth pleasant ride!


I'm takin it that you didnt drop the suspension


NO! The suspension is stock. Although many do, I do NOT like the 'tired springs look'!

Back in the 1950s and 1960s in the snow belt cars would get very rusty, body and chassis. So, as they aged, they sagged lower and lower on their rusty springs, looking more and more tired and worn out! I didn't like that look then, and I don't like it now!!

Also, I want full suspension travel, ample road clearance, good handling, and a sweet ride! The 22s with OEM suspension give me all of these!



PS: Thanks for the "WOW"! This Magnum also has every OEM option except the Sun Roof, polished throttle body, custom intake with K&N, custom catback with 6 mufflers, Hemi badges, and tint. It runs on Amsoil, and since I only drive it about 500 miles per month, and is always garaged, it should be able to 'WOW' for a good long time!!

[FOURTEEN]

Loved it!
KK


:huh: I get the most comments from women - short, overweight, about 30, with kids or girlfriends along!! :crazy: They just want to drool all over my Magnum!!

Over the years (I'm 64) I have had GTOs, Vettes, custom trucks and SUVs, sports cars, you name it, but nothing, and I mean nothing, has ever produced the positive comments that this Magnum has!! In the past, going down the highway, I've gotten my share of 'fingers', but now all I get are 'thumbs up'!! Love it!!

[qzking]

14,
Guess you missed my reply! But then again, I didn't gush over your car! Anyway. I have added your ride to my "Best Of" page @ http://www.quartzsitervshow.com/magnum_photos1.htm . And that is a mighty fine ride you have there, by-the-way!
KK
(Was I gushing?)

PS: Thanks for the "WOW"! This Magnum also has every OEM option except the Sun Roof, polished throttle body, custom intake with K&N, custom catback with 6 mufflers, Hemi badges, and tint. It runs on Amsoil, and since I only drive it about 500 miles per month, and is always garaged, it should be able to 'WOW' for a good long time!!

[qzking]

I mean, how weird is that? I am polishing up this post and you reply in the interim!
KK

14,
Guess you missed my reply! But then again, I didn't gush over your car! Anyway. I have added your ride to my "Best Of" page @ http://www.quartzsitervshow.com/magnum_photos1.htm . And that is a mighty fine ride you have there, by-the-way!
KK
(Was I gushing?)

[FOURTEEN]

14,
Guess you missed my reply! But then again, I didn't gush over your car! Anyway. I have added your ride to my "Best Of" page @ http://www.quartzsitervshow.com/magnum_photos1.htm . And that is a mighty fine ride you have there, by-the-way!
KK
(Was I gushing?)

Thanks for the comments and the honor of joining your "Best Of" page!! Since those pictures were taken, I've made a few more minor changes that I think make it even sharper!!


:huh: Dissed me but, whatever! :dunno:

If you mean my "Bottom line for me: "I don't care!"!!", that was referring to the fact that a possible tiny change in acceleration is not nearly as important to me as my Magnum's looks and other performance characteristics!! As to your SRT8, I would like one of those too, but having just finished my RT, another new car would result in my sleeping alone and cooking for myself!!!! "A man does not live on gasoline fumes alone!!"! :evillaugh

[qzking]

[QUOTE=FOURTEEN]Thanks for the comments and the honor of joining your "Best Of" page!! Since those pictures were taken, I've made a few more minor changes that I think make it even sharper!!


:huh: Dissed me but, whatever! :dunno:
14,

So sorry! I was just trying to be funny, in my own "sarcastic kind-of-way! I don't know if you read this subsequent reply that I made just minutes later, to the one that you are alluding too. But if not. Here it is.

I mean, how weird is that? I am polishing up this post and you reply in the interim!
KK

Story of my life! Open mouth. Insert foot!

I was just trying to give you a little "zinger" since you replied to someone that had posted after me!

I'm still learning about this "protocal" stuff on these/this forum/s. Give me another 57 years and I may get it right. No offense intended!

And, by the way. That is really not a "Best Of" page. I was only trying to sugarcoat my "sick attempt at humor" at that point. Anyone that sends me a photo can get on my page!

Sorry once again!
KK

[duranged03]

ummm 6 mufflers?

[Kid_Magnum]

fourteen thanks for the reply. i got one more for you. did you upgrade the brakes or are they still stock? hows the stopping power if there still stock? once again thanks for the reply it has definatly helped me on my decision of 20"s or 22"s. :cheers:

[FOURTEEN]

did you upgrade the brakes

are they still stock?
hows the stopping power if there still stock? :cheers:No.

Yes.

Fine. Any tiny theoretical decrease in stopping performance caused by a change from 18” to 22” wheels is more than negated by the huge upgrade from 225/60 99H to 265/35 102W!! The Magnum's ABS/TCS will stop or accelerate it as quickly as the momentary tire traction will allow! Better tires equal better performance! Put 225/60s on a Viper and see if performance changes!! As Firestone used to advertise, it's "where the rubber meets the road!"!!

I do not run my Magnum on a drag strip or road racing track, or make repeated high speed stops! For 99.99% of all situations encountered on the street, OEM brakes are as good or better than 'upgraded'. For one thing, when you do the research, you will discover that 'racing' pads require preheating, require extra pedal pressure, and will not grab as quickly or as well when cold. So, when you are cruising down the highway and a deer jumps out, or someone pushes a shopping cart in front of you at Wal-Mart, you will most likely be better off with the OEM brakes!!

Dodge knew that they were building a high performance car when they built the Magnum RT. I feel confident that they also designed and provided a balanced braking system that would offer superior performance under most 'real world' conditions!!



:drivingz: <<<< PS: My Magnum does not do that! It just grabs and goes!!

[Super T]

Someone mentioned the cross-drilled rotors on ebay... f.y.i., they're stock rotors that have been machined. You stand an extremely good chance of developing cracks around the holes because they are not chamfered are 100% drilled rather than cast first.

[Kid_Magnum]

once again fourteen thnx for the reply. i had a friend at work that kept insisting that if i were to go with 22's i would have to upgrade my brakes. well i thought that the 5.7 comes with 20's. so to go from 2 to 22 i didnt think i would have to upgrade. well thanx again for the reply. time to start shopping for 22's.

peace

[qzking]

fourteen,
That's a great looking wheel. I assume that is what you're running. I added it to my "Magnum Wheels" page today. Hope you don't mind.
KK
http://www.quartzsitervshow.com/magnum_photos.htm

No.

Yes.

Fine. Any tiny theoretical decrease in stopping performance caused by a change from 18” to 22” wheels is more than negated by the huge upgrade from 225/60 99H to 265/35 102W!! The Magnum's ABS/TCS will stop or accelerate it as quickly as the momentary tire traction will allow! Better tires equal better performance! Put 225/60s on a Viper and see if performance changes!! As Firestone used to advertise, it's "where the rubber meets the road!"!!

I do not run my Magnum on a drag strip or road racing track, or make repeated high speed stops! For 99.99% of all situations encountered on the street, OEM brakes are as good or better than 'upgraded'. For one thing, when you do the research, you will discover that 'racing' pads require preheating, require extra pedal pressure, and will not grab as quickly or as well when cold. So, when you are cruising down the highway and a deer jumps out, or someone pushes a shopping cart in front of you at Wal-Mart, you will most likely be better off with the OEM brakes!!

Dodge knew that they were building a high performance car when they built the Magnum RT. I feel confident that they also designed and provided a balanced braking system that would offer superior performance under most 'real world' conditions!!



:drivingz: <<<< PS: My Magnum does not do that! It just grabs and goes!!

[FOURTEEN]

i had a friend at work that kept insisting that if i were to go with 22's i would have to upgrade my brakes.

What does he think you bought, a '55 Chevy??!!??


time to start shopping for 22's.

I'm sure that you will not be sorry!!
Take the money that you would have wasted on a brake 'upgrade', invest it in a good mutual stock fund, and by the time you are ready to upgrade to your next new car that money will be there to help!!



Hope you don't mind.
KK

Of course not, and thanks again!! :banghead: But it's "fourteen" - not "fouteen"!! :werd:

:evillaugh