hi, im a noob to this forum. I decited to join cause my mom has a 1986 d100 with a inline 6 that im going to be using for a daily driver. Im posting cause i have a couple of questions. Truck has been siting for around 4 years and i need some help.
First my mom tells that the rings on the truck are going bad. so i did a compresion check and it came out to: 135, 145, 140, 140, 145, 145 psi. starting from the back piston to the front. i have no idea if this is were its supost to be at but the rings seem fine to me. the other problem is that when i took out the plugs they were really black. these usally means that its burning really lean right? dont know if this has anything to do with that but it idles kind of rough. how would i go about fixing this?
I was thinking about doing a major overhaul on the engine. riping it out, cleaning and machining the head, new valves, seals, all of that stuff. would you guys recomend this or should i just get a new engine for the truck. im not sure how many miles are on the truck right now cause the odometer only has five slots for the miles and right now it reads at 42,780 and my mom says thats its rooled over twice. thats means it has 242778 miles on it right? she has not done any major work on it so im pretty sure it needs some work. Anyways thanks for your guys help. hopefully the truck will be running soon and i can turn it into a project truck.
Dodgevanman
04-18-2005, 09:01 PM
What you have is the 225cid "slant" six..so called because the engine leans. Those compression numbers are excellent for an engine of that mileage. Pulling the engine to freshen up the gaskets is a good idea, but an overhaul isn't needed. You may want to have new valve seals installed in the head, but that's all I would do. Then you can give the engine a fresh paint job an stick her back in. Oh and put a new oil pump on while your at it....nothing fancy, just a stock replacement.
Black spark plugs are usually a sign of running too RICH. I would just buy a remanufactured carburetor and be done with it since it has that many miles on it.
A few other things you can do is flush the cooling system, change the transmission fluid, and change the rear differential lube.
ram_225
04-19-2005, 01:51 PM
except for pulling the engine thats exaclty what ive done with mine.
but deff go with the reman'd carb, way less hastle. it comes pre-set, exaclty where it need to be.
as for your compression its WAY! better then mine.
the minimus is 100psi with a max difference of 25psi between pistons.
mine are around 90 all the way.
OH. i have a question for u there RRRG, if u look strait down at ur powersteering pump, is it inline with the harmonic ballencer, or back a little bit?? Thanx
rrrg
04-20-2005, 01:52 AM
thanks for the help you guys. I thought those numbers were good too but i thought id asked, so that answered my question. as for the carb i will buy one my next pay check. hopefully that will fix that too rick problem. And another question: what would be a good price for getting the head cleaned and putting all new seals on it. just want to know a good price so i don't get riped off.
once again thanks for your guys help. oh, and i will check on that harmonic balancer tomorrow.
Dodgevanman
04-20-2005, 07:16 AM
I had the new seals and the valves lapped on my 360 heads and it cost me roughly $120. If the shop doesn't see any problems with your head, I wouldn't expect you to pay any more than that.
rrrg
04-21-2005, 04:01 PM
well i checked on that power steering thing for you ram_225, and if by a little you mean like two or three centimeters then ya its a little back. why do you ask? Is that a problem or is that how its suppose to be?
anyways thanks for that price range i will find out how much it will cost exactly once i pull of the head.
rrrg
04-21-2005, 10:56 PM
okay i ran into a problem taking off the head to the truck today. I took off all the head bolts and every thing that is connected to the head but it still wont come off, do i have to hit the head really hard to pry it loose? i don't know but i think that these two things are bolts:
image 1 (http://www.uploadpixels.com/upload/1114137857_uploadpixels.com_dips_011_mod.JPG)
do you guys know if that thing is a bolt. their is two off them. I tried taking them off but they are really on their. thats why i don't know if they are bolts. any suggestions?
Dodgevanman
04-22-2005, 06:48 AM
Can't tell if it's a bolt or not, the valve spring is kinda in the way.
Did you remove or cut the by-pass hose that runs from the water pump to the head? This will keep the head from coming off.
Sometimes it takes a little persuasion from a rubber mallet or prybar to get the head to pop loose. You might want to ask for help lifting the head off...it's very heavy.
ram_225
04-22-2005, 01:41 PM
i wasn't sure if the pully was soposed to be recessed or not. on mine it is. and i have the infernal powersteering squeel. i thoight it might be bent, or wasn't installed right the last time it was off.
Robbie
04-26-2005, 05:23 PM
Compression good, plugs black= running rich or oil. Oil rings could be gone and still have good compression. But my bet would be, The carbs on these trucks suck. I personaly went through 5 carbs including 2 rebuilts and 1 new one before i got one that worked. They had major problems so I would start there .
GHS
04-27-2005, 03:44 PM
Those are not bolts, they are plugs to the head water jacket. There are 14 head bolts.
If your spark plugs are still installed, you can turn the engine over to pop the head loose, but if not, you can pry it loose as long as you are careful where you pry.
When you get to the point of re-installing your manifolds, get a factory manual and do it precisely like it says, or else you will have leaks and you could break your exhaust manifold.
An over-rich problem could be nothing more than a choke adjustment, so I would try adjusting before buying a new carb. Properly rebuilt carbs are hard to find and you are better off rebuilding it yourself...it's not that difficult, if you are careful and can follow instructions.
vandle835
04-27-2005, 07:27 PM
any pics of the truck??? the body and such??? any way i know what you mean about the carbs i have a 318 but my shop teacher says they are junk. so i am looking for a rebuilt 4barell out of a junk yard and i will rebuild it myself
rrrg
04-28-2005, 01:25 AM
Alright I'm getting my head back tomorrow. i bought all new valves and valve springs because a couple of them were out of spec, so i just bought them all new, instead of a couple of them, for them to put in. i was going to ask you guys about the torquing and every thing else but i guess i should just get a manual. do you guys know were i could get a good one, would the ones they sell at auto zone be good?
any ways ill see about getting some pics up of the truck and a couple of before and afters of the engine, if a put it back together tomorrow.
Dodgevanman
04-28-2005, 05:03 AM
I would recommend the Factory Service Manual. The Haynes and Chilton books are crap.
Ebay is a good place to check first.
rrrg
04-28-2005, 04:04 PM
I'm going to be short on cash so i wont be able to buy the manual until later. So ill just ask. do you guys know what is the torquing procedure for the head?
Dodgevanman
04-28-2005, 08:51 PM
Here's some scans on the procedure. Follow them to a T.
rrrg
04-28-2005, 09:56 PM
thanks allot. i don't know what i would do with out you guys. :rck:
rrrg
04-29-2005, 11:33 PM
well I'm almost finished. I got the head in the truck now all i have to do is put everything back together. i was just wondering about the vacuum lines that are in there, the ones that go to the carb and all the other stuff. They are made of plastic and i broke some of them while i was taking them off. is it possible for me to replace them with rubber hoses. i don't like the way the plastic ones look.
and also, i got a couple of pictures of the truck. i just took them right now so its kind of dark...
http://uploadpixels.com/upload/1114831223_uploadpixels.com_ram_007.jpg
http://uploadpixels.com/upload/1114831236_uploadpixels.com_ram_008.jpg
http://uploadpixels.com/upload/1114831868_uploadpixels.com_ram_009_mod.JPG
as you can see she needs some work done on her but its all good for right now. ill get some day time pics once I'm all done with her.
Dodgevanman
04-29-2005, 11:43 PM
Yeah rubber hoses will be okay. I can't help with vacuum hose routings...every vehicle seems to be different in that respect. You may be able to find a diagram under the hood somewhere...sometimes that's where they are.
rrrg
05-03-2005, 04:58 PM
almost done with her. i had a couple of delays cause some of the parts that came with the gasket set did not match and they had to order new ones. i have another question. What kind of a spark plugs should i use? i don't want anything to fancy but i also don't want anything cheap. what would you guys recommend?
Dodgevanman
05-03-2005, 07:53 PM
Bosch Supers are good or just go with Champions, which are OE in Chrysler products.
rrrg
05-04-2005, 02:35 PM
I'm having trouble finding out were these "spark plug tube seals" that came with the gasket set go. they look like big rubber o ring seals but their too big to fit on the out side. Do you guys know if i missed putting these things in on the inside some where?
also I'm routing all the vacuum lines and it seems that whoever did the truck last just connected the vacuum lines to anything. I'm trying to figure out what this thing is so i can finish up...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/rrrg/ram011.jpg
here's a closer shot...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/rrrg/ram010.jpg
as you can see it has several vacuum lines going to it and i cant find it on the diagram under the hood. its mounted to the the side wall on the passenger side of the truck. can you help me out.
GHS
05-04-2005, 04:12 PM
Spark plug tube seals are used only on older slant six and old Hemi engines. I'm surprised you bought a set of plugs that included them because it's getting harder to find the seals by themselves. Hang on to them for when your slant-powered friends need some.
Dodgevanman
05-04-2005, 04:14 PM
yeah, these tube seals stopped in like '75 or '76....Fel-Pro still makes them though.
rrrg
05-04-2005, 04:18 PM
i edit the post on top to see if you can help me. I guess i was editing while you guys were posting.
Dodgevanman
05-04-2005, 04:44 PM
Okay let's see if I can help. I'm looking at a 1984 Ram Van FSM, but the principles are the same.
The top "doohicky" is the EGR solenoid. The front nipple goes to the EGR Amplifier (round thing over valve cover). The nipple facing firewall is open and is referred to as a "bleed." The nipple facing the engine goes to the EGR valve.
The bottom "doohicky" is called the ASRV solenoid (Air Switch Relief Valve). The front nipple should stay open and is referred to as a "bleed." The rear nipple facing firewall tees into center vacuum line coming off of EGR Amp. and vacuum source of of manifold (main source for power brake booster). The nipple facing engine is connected to the front of the ASRV mounted on or at the air pump.
Are you confused yet? I explained it the best I could.
rrrg
05-04-2005, 06:30 PM
what you posted helped me out allot thanks dodgevanman. Just need to clear some things up cause as you might said, I'm confused.
first: i need to know what the ESA is. its the thing thats located on top of the air pump in the diagram that you posted. would the ESA be the thing that is mounted near the driver side head light?
second: i need to know if this is the air pump:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/rrrg/ram016mod.jpg
and third: i cant seem to find the "coolant sw". in the diagram its next to the vapor canestors. do you know were this coolant thing would normally be found in the engine bay?
if you can help me out with finding these things i should be finished.
rrrg
05-04-2005, 09:58 PM
Finally i got her started. But as always there is a problem. after she starts she doesn't stay on. i have to give it some gas so she wont die out. with my previous experience with cars and the way it sounds I'm thinking it might be the firing order that i got wrong or it could be the timing. But I'm not sure since this is my first time working on a carbed car. can you guys tell me what the firing order is and also how to check the timing. i know you need a timing light but i don't know were the marks are. and i also still need some info from the above post. Thanks.
Dodgevanman
05-05-2005, 05:22 AM
The ESA is the "Electronic Spark Advance" and is probably mounted on the left fenderwell next to the battery. It should have a vacuum line going to it as well.
Yes that is the air pump and mounted to it is the ASRV or "Air Switch Relief Valve."
That coolant switch, which is a thermal vacuum switch, is going to be screwed into the head...probably near the thermostat housing.
Dodgevanman
05-05-2005, 05:27 AM
Finally i got her started. But as always there is a problem. after she starts she doesn't stay on. i have to give it some gas so she wont die out. with my previous experience with cars and the way it sounds I'm thinking it might be the firing order that i got wrong or it could be the timing. But I'm not sure since this is my first time working on a carbed car. can you guys tell me what the firing order is and also how to check the timing. i know you need a timing light but i don't know were the marks are. and i also still need some info from the above post. Thanks.
Timing marks are going to be down on the timing chain cover and harmonic balancer. Some slant sixes are timed right at TDC. Be sure to disconnect the vacuum line to the distributor before you set the timing. Timing is adjusted by loosening the distributor and turning it while you observe the timing marks via the timing light.
1-5-6-3-2-4 is the firing order.
rrrg
05-05-2005, 03:45 PM
I've looked and looked but i still cant seem to find that coolant switch. I looked on checkers website to give me an idea of what it is that I'm looking for but i cant find it any where on the head. The funny thing is that i don't remember taking it off and if i didn't then the machine shop would have taken it off for me then handed it to me with everything else that i left on the head. Is it possible that i don't have one? there's a spot on the head where it seems that it would be, but you would need to drill it to put it in.
Do you think that that is were it should be? can i just skip the switch and connect the vacuum hose straight to the vapor canisters? or will that hurt the engine some how? What exactly does that coolant switch do? If its like a temperature thing i have the temperature sensor going right into the coolant next to the thermostat. its in the pic right next to were i high lighted.
Speed Dragon
05-05-2005, 06:45 PM
The coolant switch is probably in one of the radiator tanks.
Speed Dragon
05-05-2005, 06:56 PM
do you have a spark control computer bolted to the side of the air cleaner?
rrrg
05-05-2005, 09:00 PM
if your talking about the ESA then ya i have it. I already have that hooked up the way the diagram on the truck shows. the only thing that is missing is that switch thing that i cant find. I just past that up hooked up to the canister. hopfully nothing happens. Any ways i got her going and shes running pretty good. I just adjusted the timing so that she don't turn off on me while its idling. I still got to get her timed right. Also i just found out why she was running really rich. The O2 sensor wire was cut. I didn't even notice it while i took the exhaust manifold off. I noticed it right now cause there was smoke coming from that side of the manifold. It was smoking cause its burning the paint that sprayed on the manifold. ill see if i can find were it connects to the O2 sensor tommow.
And thanks for your guys help if it weren't for you guys ill still be lost somewere trying to find out how to torque down the head or something.
rrrg
05-05-2005, 09:17 PM
oohhh.. i got some before and after engine shots...
I'm still going to reroute some of the vacuum lines so they don't cross over the valve cover so it don't look to messy.
Dodgevanman
05-05-2005, 09:24 PM
Does your truck have an EGR valve? According to the book only models with the an EGR valve have the Coolant Vacuum Switch.
Dodgevanman
05-05-2005, 09:34 PM
You should have an evaporative emissions sticker under there somewhere that will give you what base timing you should use.
I thought your truck was an '84, not an '86 so I think I gave you the wrong vacuum diagrams. However I don't have an '86 FSM, but I do have one for an '85 van, which probably isn't going to different than a pickup as far as emissions go. I see in the pics that you do have an EGR valve so you should have that coolant vacuum switch. Is that engine original to the truck? If it's an older engine, this may be the reason you don't have the provision for the switch in the thermostat housing....which is where it should be.
Here's the '85 diagrams....hopefully this will help. It looks like the EGR isn't even a part of this coolant vacuum switch circuit. I'd just say screw it and hook the vacuum line directly from the evap. canister to the carb.
rrrg
05-05-2005, 09:59 PM
i followed the diagram under the hood of the truck so the vacuum lines should be routed right. Except for that switch that i cant find. And it should be the original engine that came with the truck back in 86 when my mom bought it. i dont remember my mom giving it to a tech for a engine swap. she has only given to a shop for a couple of days and only for little things, nothing major. Ill ask my mom to see if they chaged the head out, now that i think about it the valve cover gasket that came with the kit that i ordered for an 86 didnt fit. I had to order, i think it was a 1975 valve cover gasket that they gave me and it fit perfectly. :dunno:
edit: i asked my mom and as far as she nows its the original engine and head.
Dodgevanman
05-05-2005, 10:06 PM
Okay....I don't think you have the original engine. The slant six changed a bit in 1981 when a hydraulic cam and lifters was installed. As a result of this the head changed a bit. Looking at the valve cover gasket that came with your kit, does kind of have a "dog leg" in it? I bet the engine in your truck now has adjustable rockers....post-'81 sixes didn't.
rrrg
05-05-2005, 10:13 PM
naw.. the rockers didnt have that little screw that you use to adjust them. i just bolted the rocker shaft and it was done. i dint have to adjust the lash or anything.
Dodgevanman
05-05-2005, 10:31 PM
Interesting....somewhere along the line that head must have been changed out with an earlier casting. That's the only thing I can think of. No matter..it sounds like you got your vacuum lines sorted out.
rrrg
05-05-2005, 10:41 PM
ya I'm starting to think that i got an older head in their too. but if that were the case would an older head work with a newer block since it was changed to hydraulic cam and lifters in 81. If not then that means that i got a hole older engine in their then right? do you think i should check the casting numbers in their to make sure? would this affect my emissions drastically?
Dodgevanman
05-06-2005, 05:04 PM
I don't think there will be a problem with emissions. If you don't have adjustable rockers, then you do have an hydraulic cam and lifters. The older will still bolt down to the newer block.
rrrg
05-06-2005, 06:51 PM
well if everything is allright then i guess I'm done for now. Thanks for all the help that you gave me dodgevanman. You were allot of help and i appreciate you taking the time to answer some of my questions.
Dodgevanman
05-06-2005, 08:59 PM
No problem man...that's what we all here for. Long live the mightly slant six.
rrrg
05-19-2005, 03:06 PM
hey I'm back. I'm having trouble with the wiring harness that has the connections that go to the carb. I have several wires that don't connect to anything and several of them that are taped together and don't look right. i don't know if they are connect to what they are suppost to be connected to so i need to know if you guys have the wiring diagram for that. i need to know so i can take it to emission this weekend. i need to find the one that connects to the o2 sensor. thanks.
Dodgevanman
05-19-2005, 10:07 PM
Here's the schematics for an '86 Ram Van....they should be about the same. I hope you can understand how to read the diagrams. They can be a little confusing.
rrrg
05-20-2005, 12:18 AM
thanks. once again you come to the rescue.
rrrg
05-23-2005, 02:59 PM
is thier a color guide to the scamatics that you have? cause some of them have letters like: 14rd, !8vd, and 18dg i just need to know what they mean because its confusing me.
Dodgevanman
05-23-2005, 05:31 PM
The number before the letter is the gauge of wire (size). The letter represent the color.
RD=Red
VT=Violet
DG=Dark Green
Don't know what VD is...they don't have a listing for that one.
rrrg
05-23-2005, 09:06 PM
oops, i meant vt. but you got it.
rrrg
05-28-2005, 11:08 AM
I'm starting to get frustrated with this truck. its taking too long to fix and when ever i get it going something else seems to go wrong. I finally had it running right the wiring was fixed and all of them had connections to something. I set the timing and i turned it on and it was running perfect then i wire fried. so i replaced it i started up again and did the timing again. again it was running perfect so i backed it out of the drive way then boom it just shut off. i saw smoke coming from under the hood so i thought it was that wire again. i was wrong. the smoke was coming from inside the carb. Does anyone know what this could be? I'm getting tired of this truck and I'm starting to think that it shouldn't be on the road. :VHOT:
Dodgevanman
05-28-2005, 07:34 PM
Smoke from the carb could just be some unburnt fuel still down in the venturi area.
What wire keeps frying? Is it a fusible link?
Moparfreak1980
05-28-2005, 08:01 PM
champion or bosh although bosh are quite pricy
Dodgevanman
05-28-2005, 08:06 PM
champion or bosh although bosh are quite pricy
:huh:
rrrg
05-30-2005, 12:28 AM
the wire only fried once and it was the idle stop switch. it fried cause the exhaust manifold burned the insulation and caused a short. i replaced it and set the timing again to be sure. i got in and backed it up as soon as i got to the curb it shut off on me. i got out to check if the wire had fried again but everthing is OK, just a lot of smoke coming from the carb. would all that smoke cause the truck to turn off? ill check it again tomorrow in the morning just to see if it will turn on.
Dodgevanman
05-30-2005, 12:34 AM
Was the smoke actually coming out of the carb. or from a solenoid or something attached to the carb.?
rrrg
05-31-2005, 01:02 PM
i think it was coming from inside the engine. i could see it billowing up from the intake manifold.
Dodgevanman
05-31-2005, 08:31 PM
Where are you now with this latest problem?
Have you tried to fire the engine at all?
rrrg
06-01-2005, 12:05 PM
i tried to fire her up today but she didn't turn on. So i check the basic things. i filled her up on gas cause the fuel lines were kind of dry. but that wasn't it. then i tried checking for spark but i couldn't tell. I could not see any spark coming from the plug wire. Is there any way of checking a distributer to see if its working right. I'm going to try checking for compressin next, just in case if something went horribly wrong in there. which i hope is not the case.
Dodgevanman
06-01-2005, 12:10 PM
Did you put the old distributor back in or buy a new one?
Pop the distributor cap off and have an assistant turn the engine over while you confirm movement of the rotor. If the rotor turns, then you at least know the timing chain hasn't broke.
Did the engine make any kind of noise when it shut down on you?
rrrg
06-01-2005, 07:01 PM
i put the old one in. don't know if any one has done anything to it, and yes it still spins when i crank it. I took out a spark plug and left it connected to the plug wire to see if it sparked and it didn't. Would that way of checking for spark work. i usually just take off the wire and put it against the block or a screw driver to check for spark but that didn't work or at least didn't see any spark. it didn't make any noise when it turned off on me it just died. do you think i should buy a new cap and rotor?
Dodgevanman
06-01-2005, 09:02 PM
I think your problem lies in the ESA computer, the ballast resistor, or the coil.
Check the connections at the ESA...make sure none of the wires are burnt an that the connector(s) are in good shape. Those ESA computers are nothing but trouble to be honest with you.
rrrg
06-04-2005, 01:19 AM
do you know were the ballast resistor would be at?
Dodgevanman
06-04-2005, 04:46 AM
It should be located on the firewall towards the driver's side. It's a little white rectangle shaped ceramic doo-dad.
rrrg
06-04-2005, 05:46 PM
OK i got it going again. It turns out that one of the wires that connects to a relay or something on the driverside firewall was riping apart and it didn't have a good connection. so i fixed that and it finally started. but the wire kept on heating up so i checked the regulator and that had a leak in it. i replaced the regulator and i cant seem to get it going right again. the timing mark on the pulley doesn't stay still, it jumps around and it idles rough, like it did when the wires on the harness where crossed. so i checked the wires that go to the carb and everything is where it should be. i also checked to see if the plugs were firing and thats working fine. the only thing i could think of is if the idle stop switch stopped working. is their a way to check that? my exhaust smells like gas so I'm thing it has something to do with the carb.
Dodgevanman
06-05-2005, 11:28 AM
If that timing mark on the pulley isn't staying still, then you've got a problem either in the distributor (it's just worn out) or that ESA computer...which controls your timing advance.
Speed Dragon
06-06-2005, 12:02 PM
Or the vacuum advance is messed up, if it has one.
The wire you had to replace, that sound like you're talking about a fusible link. It needs to be replaced with the proper gauge wire, otherwise it will overheat and burn up again.
