I'll probably be hanging around these parts from now on as the need arises. I was looking for a cheap and reliable work/camping van; and today found and bought a 1983 B250 Royal extended van for $1000. It has the 318 motor and it shows 4k miles. The seller says it's 104k, but who knows, could be 204k. The van was part of the University of Texas system before this guy.
I have some questions that I'm having trouble answering:
1) What does the "Royal" designation mean? Do I indeed have the "wagon", is that what the extended vans are called?
2) It has a 3-speed auto transmission; is that the 727?
3) It starts right up and idles fairly smooth, except when I'm at a stoplight in gear with the brake applied, it revs so low I think it's gonna stall- though I wouldn't go as far as to say it's "sputtering." I want it to idle more consistently and not worry that it's about to stall at every light. I'm gonna change the fuel filter, air filter, oil, pcv... because that's easy and cheap. What else might I do? Carburetor adjustment? How much does that cost?
4) At highway speeds it vibrates pretty loudly, and the vibration seems sensitive to how much the accelerator is depressed. Is this U-bolts? Probably that and more?
5) This thing is loud to drive. I'm gonna spend a lot of time sound-deadening, insulating, and weatherstripping I can tell.
6) How expensive and difficult is the timing chain? Is that something I should fear?
Any help is truly appreciated. :help:
Dodgevanman
02-08-2005, 07:17 AM
The Royal Sportsman package was the top of the line package offered in those days. It could be had in any configuration...you just happen to have the Maxi-van version. You probably do have the A727, but it could be the A904...but doubtful in a one ton van.
With 104,000 miles I would have your carburetor rebuilt or buy a rebuilt carb. It's just good advice especially on a 22 year old vehicle.
Your vibration could be u-joints, pinion bearing, or axle bearings...have it checked out soon.
Doing a timing chain isn't that hard, but I would get a factory service manual that can walk you step by step on how to do it. Get the factory manual and stay away from Chiltons and Haynes manual because they don't have a lot of in depth info. You can get a used factory manual on ebay.
Pantysniff
02-13-2005, 09:31 PM
Thanks for replying Dodgevanman.
Well I took it to Firestone for an oil, transmission fluid, and filters change; and to diagnose the vibration. They told me it definitely needed new U-joints and a transmission mount.
I didn't like the price they quoted me so I put an ad on craigslist for a mechanic, offering $100 to replace those parts. I had a guy that works at a Nissan dealership come do it today, and it was quite an ordeal because the aftermarket cups were a hair bigger in diameter than the old ones... I'm fairly confident the U-joints were properly installed without pins being knocked out during his pounding... I know that when it was put together, there was no slop and they moved freely. The tranny mount went easily.
The test drive revealed that 60% of the vibration was gone, though I didn't get it above 60. It seemed smoother.
When I got it home and was looking at it, I can see that the motor mounts also need to be replaced, as the motor sends vibrations throughout the van at idle.
The problem is that it still clunks fairly hard when going into gear, more reverse than forward. The mechanic today thinks it could possibly be something wrong with the transmission itself. I'm not ready to blame the transmission since it has a reputation for toughness and shifts like butter. Any ideas? I thought for sure the new U-joints would eliminate the clunk based on what I've been reading.
Lastly, this van puts out noxious fumes- some of which are getting into the cab. It seems to be leaking from the valve cover, burning on the manifold, and then entering through the doghouse, but I don't know the rate of leak/burn yet. It also lets out a puff of oil smoke at startup from the exhaust, which from my reading that seems to be worn valve stem guides. The guy who worked on it today suggested I have a compression test done to rule out bad rings.
Anyone recommend a product to add to the oil to recondition the valve seals?
Thanks!
Dodgevanman
02-14-2005, 12:05 PM
The clunk when you put the van in gear could be some slop in the rear end gears and/or pinion bearing. But replace your motor mounts first and see what happens.
Felpro makes rubber valve cover gaskets that are way better than the cork garbage. Do you have any exhaust leaks that could be emiting fumes into the van?
In my experience with valve seals, they won't magically return to new with an oil additive. Most of the time when you pull the valve covers and look at the seals they're split or broken into pieces becaust the rubber is so brittle.
A compression check is a good idea, but if your just getting a puff at start-up, it's probably time for new valve seals.
Doomsayer
02-16-2005, 12:23 AM
A few quick questions, since I have the same problem with the white smoke at start up, and when I rev it quickly from idle or from a stop, on my 1991 B250 with the 318 5.2l carb engine.
How easy is it to replace/fix these valve seals?
Is it something I can do myself?
How much would it cost to buy the new valve seals and where can I get them?
I get a LOT of smoke when I punch the gas and release it quickly while idling. Eventually as the engine warms up, the smoke stops billowing out from my exhaust when I punch it quickly. I was told it could be a bad ring or multiple bad rings that eventually expand and cause the smoke to stop, and from what I've read here, it could also be my valve seals. I'm betting more on the valve seals, and my guess is that it's a lot less expensive to replace those than it is to replace/fix the rings, but I'm not sure.
juustinp
03-03-2005, 02:45 PM
some things you might have already checked but here goes.make sure the doghouse is secured;not just the latch but the tie down screws,(dought if thats the technical name!!).also make sure the rubber around the BACK door is good.it could cause fumes to enter the van. IF the rubber is detiriated,replace it.(yes,espesally going down the road.)
