Ignition switch help

[swami2806]

Okay I'll try wording this a different way--I really need to get this truck up and running.

I am trying to access the ignition switch in the column. I got as far as removing the turn/hazard switch, but that's as far as I got. I'm trying to get into the section behind that, where the lock cylinder and switch is, but that section won't come off. It feels like there is a spring pulling against it when I try to pull it off. Do I need to remove the lock cylinder??? Please help! I'm stuck. Thanks.

[fins2fuselage]

Swami,

Is it a tilt column? If so, then it is probably a Saginaw (GM) column. Saginaw columns require a special tool to compress a spring which will then allow a lock ring to be removed from the shaft. Once the lock ring is removed, the rest of the column comes apart fairly easily. However, be sure to take digital photos (or make detailed illustrations) as you go.

Going from memory, I seem to recall that once you finally reach the lock cylinder, there is a hole or a slot in it into which you must insert a small probe to release it (I use a paper clip bent straight). IMPORTANT: usually, the key must be in the lock at the time of removal -- don't ask me which position ("run", "lock", "acc") it must be in, but it is particular. On a VERY few columns which I have seen, there is a hole in the end of the outer lock cylinder which will release it as long as the key is inserted in it. Thusly, the need for column disassembly is rendered unnecessary.

A FSM will for your year truck will lay it out step-by-step for you -- and answer a whole lot of other questions besides.


Okay, I just read your post more closely and it is time for some editing: if it is the actual electrical igntion switch which you must replace (as opposed to the lock cylinder), look farther down on top of the steerign column under the instument panel. Most (all?) of the Saginaws had the switch located there, and it (usually) is a simple matter to remove the wiring harness plugs, the control rod and the three or four screws which hold the switch to the column.

When the tilt column decides to "loosen-up" on you, just post again and we will tell you all about the three-out-of-four screws which you can actually reach to tighten it up again . . .

Good Luck,

Jeff

[swami2806]

Thanks Jeff--the switch is not on top of the column. I looked and felt along the whole thing and nothing. Plus the harness with all the correct colored wires for the switch goes into that section, right on top of the turn signal harness wires. It has to be in that section. It does feel like there is some sort of lock ring--there is a pull from a spring when I tried to pry it (gently). Also, it is not tilt.

If I do have to take the lock cylinder out, how much of a hassle is it getting it back in??? Thanks Jeff!! It's appreciated.

--Jim

[bigdog440]

well i did a 78 not long ago, after i got the turn signal's 3 screws out, look where the shaft comes up, there was a snap ring,once it was off pry up on the collar alittle and can twist it abit, there is a hole that will let you get a long thin punch to the release at the top of the ign swicth need to have the key in so you can remove it, but goes back in alot easier,trust me. lol

[swami2806]

Thanks bigdog. Some sort of retaining clip occured to me too, but I have a thin piece of rubber at the shaft there--looks like a seal for a bearing, so I didn't tear it off. I guess I'll try to pry it back a little again so I can see in there and know where to try and jab a punch.

If not, I'll tear the column out and bring it down to the local garage. If I wanted this nonsense I would have bought a ford.

[swami2806]

Thanks bigdog and fins2--I got it. You were correct Bob--there was a snap ring buried behind that seal and grease. Took the snap ring off and she came right out. The switch was in there. I was disappointed to find no signs of a short or burned wire or connection. Still have to put a meter on it though. I'll keep you updated.

[swami2806]

Well I put a meter on the switch and everything checks out--All leads have continuity to the terminals, as my manual says they should, so I guess the switch is good. On to the starter.