caravan quits at lights

[caravan9111]

hello there
I need some help solving an issue with my grand caravan.
its a 1995, 3.3L. 2wd
when i drove it a few days ago, when applying the brakes to turn a corner, or stop at a light, the rpms will go down to 500 and just shut off the van.
when i drove the van today, it stalled numerous times, at almost every red light. at one point in the parking lot at jack astors , and every where else every time it started i put it in drive and it quit. did this at least 50 or 60 times. but didnt in reverse. i had to 2 pedal it home.
this van seems to be the stop and start van.
it is now surging when i drive in town between 40 and 60 kms.
won't go on the highway because its 2 dangerous
rpms will be at 2500, and then without taking my foot off the gas , will drop to 1000 rpms. when i accelerate at that point, the engine will backfire ,but sounds more like its muffled in the engine or something. (definately not gunfire out the back)
today i changed tps., iac, throttle body., air filter.,square thing in breather box for oil vapours,. spark plugs, clean throttle body with carb cleaner, oil and filter change, gas line water eliminator,. checked all hoses, vac lines.
big mystery with ZERO engine codes. I read them and nothing but 55
please help me
thanks john

[goofy173]

Well, I typed a long answer in your other post, but erased it because most of the questions I had, you posted in this topic. I like to help but I don't want to have to jump from topic to topic just to see all your problems. Here I go:

A guess at this point might be a plugged Cat. Also a MAP sensor could cause all the problems you are seeing, and I know 'cause my 91. 3.0 did just that. It did finally give a code after it got really bad which lead me to the problem. I had already changed out plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and coil.

Because of the backfire, which really it didn't blow out the exhaust, but fired back through the intake most likely, a plugged cat would do this more than a MAP sensor. Somehow I would open up the exhaust before the cat. Some remove the O2 sensor but my was not going to come out so I drilled a hole, and then later patched it with some JB weld and a stainless screw.

Backfiring (into the intake, that's why it was muffled and not out the exhaust) might be a fuel/air mixture problem which could be MAP. It sucks it won't give you a code.

You can compare to my problem at http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260528

[Wrenchgear]

I agree with goofy

My first thought was a plugged exhaust.

Wrench

[StandOnCliff]

Clogged exhaust can be found easily. Take it down a dark dreary road at night. Pull over and look under the vehicle. If the exhaust is glowing red in front of the converter the converter is clogged.

[The DEUCE]

Sounds like your fuel injectors are clogged.

[caravan9111]

today i changed the fuel pump, better yet the whole gas tank, i drove it for a few hors, it hesitates a bit when coasting, but its not dying at lights. i will post again in a few days to let yous know if its solved. sorry for the double post,
i posted last night and couldnt find my post today. thought it didnt make it.
so i posted again. my apology.
i will try and delete the old one.
thanks for the help. if it does it again i will check all mentioned
thanks john

[The DEUCE]

While you are waiting why don't yah throw a can of Sea Foam in your tank and clean your motor internally?

[StandOnCliff]

You haven't mentioned if the fuel filter has been changed or not. Might want to put a new one in if you didn't do so already.

[dlm4ut]

I had a problem with my caravan stalling at low rpms. It turned out that it was caused by a dirty battery post and loose connection at the battery post. After cleaning and then making a good and tight connection, no more stalling.

This is probably not your problem, but it is easy to check out.

dlm4ut

[caravan9111]

ok, went to work today. died in the driveway before i even put it in drive, at the stop sign, tim hortons drive thru, on the way out of the parking lot, 2 times at home depot, it surges when driving steady internal backfire a few times.
heres what i did so far
-changed spark plugs (wires are already new)
-changed air filter
-replaced hose from valve cover to breather box
-3 connections were un hooked so plugged in (no difference)
-changed oil and filter
-fuel filter
-fuel pump
-gas tank
-throttle positioning sensor
-idle air control motor
-throttle body
-manifold sensor
-battery connections good
-checked for leaks around intake and throttlebody
-head gasket done 6000 kms ago with new heads(At dodge dealership)
-new pcv valve
-all vacuum lines grat shape and hooked up according to the diagram under the hood.
changed all relays, checked all fuses,
i took it back to the person i bought it from. and he is taking it to the mechanic who did the work on it and certified it.. he changed passanger strutt
forgot to tie down the battery, missed the leak in the coolant reservoir. and a crack in the passanger mirror. once i get it back i will take to my mechanic to have it looked ove again. last owner drove it with no problems. it test drove perfect before i bought it.
hope its the mechanics fault. still 32 days till safety expires.
thanks for all your help so far

[caravan9111]

also threw a can of fuel injection cleaner in the tank that also removes water
and cleaned intake with carb cleaner.

[Wrenchgear]

Be aware that a safety is not a warranty. It only means that it is safe to drive on the road. Tires, brakes, steering, suspension, lights, wipers, heater to defog the windshield, ..... It doesn't mean that it is a vehicle in brand new condition as far as options and bells and whistles go. Having said that, one could argue that a vehicle that constantly stalls every minute or 2 is not safe to drive on the road. It is a traffic hazard to other motorists. It will be a hard sell to the certifying mechanic to give you warranty of some sort on his safety, but it is worth a try.

Like I mentioned before, check for a plugged exhaust. Have someone rev it up while you have your hand behind the tailpipe. Make sure there is a great amount of flow. During winter, I've seen plenty of mufflers freeze solid while filling with exhaust condensation. This causes the exact symptoms that you have. Thats why mufflers come with small holes drilled in either end to let the water out.

Wrench

[caravan9111]

well the problem was found and fixed, it runs like a champ now
the mechanic who certified the car knew it very well. I already knew that a certify is not a warranty. but it can be leverage when he is a crook himself.
which tomorrow i will be getting it re checked.
see he passed safety when there was not a battery tie down, cracked side mirror, rear wiper not functional and a leaking coolant reservoir, me and the old owner said that the van ran fine before it went to his shop, and i said i would take it to my mechanic to see what else was missed if this problem wasnt corrected. that being said. I spent 3 days solid working on this thing over a 3 dollar rubber hose that looks like a sparkplug boot that fits on the pcv valve. it had a pinhole in it so the pcv valve wasnt functioning properly. causing it to stall. even blowing in it holding the other end with my thumb i never felt air leak, but squeese it a certain way it leaked, i guess when it gets hot the rubber expands allowing it to leak.
ive been working on cars now for 18 years and never thought it would be something so small. i was certain it it had to do with fuel pressure, spark, exhaust, transmission computer, and all listed above. im even building a 1987 ranger obd2 with air bags and the works from scratch and almost done. bought junkers and sold them mint. to those who are having this idle problem, i dont see it listed in here any where, and when ever someone fixes something after being here, the problem is fixed for them "why post now"
hope you spend the 3 bucks on this rubber hose first, that looks like the end of a spark plug to the pcv valve, you cant see the leak in it, and when you blow in it, there is no leak, but you squeese it a certain way and see cracks developing. dont waste your time like i did "replace it."
thank you all for all your help, hope this helps.
symptoms
idle - sometimes die, put in drive - dead, reverse - sometimes die, drive - little shake with not much power, some powerloss till you tromp in the gas, surges where it feels like car is not getting fuel, low idle - stall, turn corners at low speed - stall. no check engine light, no codes.
thanks guys