The radiator in my van has been repaired mutipule times. It is again leaking. I have determined to replace it. I found three options 1) Full brass radiator, 2) Full aluminum radiator, and 3) aluminum core with plastic tanks.
The information I am looking for is which metal transfers heat better. I want to go with the full metal and not the plastic tank type.
So which transfers the heat better - aluminum or brass?
alloro
06-14-2009, 01:18 PM
Brass transfers heat better, but it is more expensive. That's why most vehicles have aluminum instead of brass.
97B2500CCV
06-21-2009, 12:34 AM
Going with the aluminum with plastic tanks. Hopefully the efficancy loss won't be to bad.
I had found three sources on Ebay and further checking found that one company is using three names. Some of the bidders have not received their order. And though they claim that their radiators have lifetime warranty the purchaser would have to go through a CA arbitration to get any disputes reminded. Do to that I have chosen a local national auto parts store, at least this way if there is ever a problem I will have an easier and faster time getting the replacement part.
alloro
06-21-2009, 11:43 AM
I have found the best radiator prices to be from one of these two places. Delivered to your door in 24-48 hours too.
Thanks Alloro. I tried both links, I personally like the second link better, at least on it I found out what their prices are. First one was a computer automated chat instead of a live person (which may be that it is a Sunday instead of a work day). It wanted me to give it my phone number for someone to call me, I did not like that idea. The one I did buy locally was only about 8 dollars more than the price on site 2.
I did get my replacement put in this morning. The new one is a two row core design, the one that was in it was a one row. So at least I have doubled the capacity of the radiator. Getting ready for a highway test and see what it will do with these out side temps reaching into the mid to high 90's today.
B-300
06-22-2009, 01:23 PM
FYI: The tubes and fins on most non-aluminium radiators is copper which conducts heat faster than brass or alminium. The tanks on these are brass.
stev
06-24-2009, 10:32 PM
In the past 15 years, I have worked as a Product Design Engineer for Harrison Radiator.
Today's aluminum cores with plastic side tanks are engineered to out perform the older copper/brass. Why? Because the aluminum side tank headers can stack more tubes that are micro slotted inside between 90 to 120 microns. Heat transfer isn't just the materials, although it's an important factor, the heat transfer is fully based on contact surface area.
The nylon 6/6 Glass Filled 38% side tanks can handle the heat and deal better with thermal expansion of heated and cooler coolant. Thus, less of a chance for a bursted metal tank joint.
The total number of aluminum air-centers are far better with the aluminum too. More can be brazed onto the tubes with braze-flux vs. the copper/brass. Your radiator would need to be an additional inch thicker in copper to compensate for the technology advances in an aluminum radiator core for thermal transfer.
Aluminum also allows for lighter weight and works well with e-fans.
97B2500CCV
06-25-2009, 04:24 PM
I have been testing my new radiator for 5 days now and the temp gage will not go over the 1/3 mark with the ambient temp at 99 and the AC on max. Just under two weeks ago I could not keep the engine that cool with the AC turned off, then it was riding halfway between the 2/3 mark and the top of the normal area which is way to hot IMHO.
Why Dodge put a light duty cooling system in the 3/4 ton van I may never know but to me that idea was not smart.
Right now the engine temp is not changing much with or with out the AC on (maybe two needle widths is all) which I do like but not use to. Most vehicles I have had ran a little warmer with the AC on verse with it turned off.
97B2500CCV
06-25-2009, 04:31 PM
I am thinking about getting a "pusher" type e-fan to put in front of the condenser latter or maybe next year to help with city driving in keeping the condenser cooler during idle and slow moving traffic.
Then I would bring a wire from a "key on" fuse to a switch which will activate a relay that will turn on the fan. This way if I forget to turn off the fan then when I shut off the engine the fan will be shut down as well.
stev
07-04-2009, 01:03 AM
I am thinking about getting a "pusher" type e-fan to put in front of the condenser latter or maybe next year to help with city driving in keeping the condenser cooler during idle and slow moving traffic.
Then I would bring a wire from a "key on" fuse to a switch which will activate a relay that will turn on the fan. This way if I forget to turn off the fan then when I shut off the engine the fan will be shut down as well.
Most of the eFan kits sold today have a thermistor shut-off after the key is turned off and you walk away. So, no need to reinvent the protection. Plus, it will save you from turning the system off too early or to forget to turn it back on.
