Ok, next problem
I have a 94 B250 5.2 (318) with a 46RH tranny and i have this sluggish throttle response, along with a rough idle.
the rough idle, is anytime at idle, hot, cold, anytime
the sluggish throttle is sometimes, but happens at any temps and occours at any gas pedal position. for example, when i am at a stop light, i can press the gas to about 1/4 the way down, and it will take 1/8-1/4 second for it to catch up and take off. only from a stop at idle, when driving on the road or highway, it won't do it. but like i said, it does not do it all the time, only sometimes.
also, something that may be related is anytime when in reverse, it seems like it the motor has no power and sounds like its being choked and smothered.
as well anytime if the A/C is on, then it has almost no power at all.
and now it has another noise now coming from the back top of the engine (like a rattle clacking noise at idle that turns into a pinging sound when accelerating)
i have replaced the following
spark plugs (gapped to spec .35)
plug wires
dist cap and rotor
K&N air filter
timing chain
T.V. cable
i put a used TPS switch on it from the junkyard (however made no difference)
cleaned the idle air motor actuator rod, throttle plates, and lubed the gas pedal/throttle cable
Pinging. Have you done the intake gasket or at least checked it... A leaking one will cause a vacumm leak and allow oil to be sucked into the manifold.
TiaraRamVan
06-10-2009, 06:15 PM
in reponse to "stev" i did clean the IAC a couple of weeks ago but i didn't clean the port, i do it again when i time, and see if that helps.
TiaraRamVan
06-10-2009, 09:54 PM
Ok, i didn't want to waste any time so i did it tonight, i took the entire throttle body off, found lots of old carbon buildup and oil. cleaned the IAC plunger again, cleaned the throttle body housing and vacuum holes and ports with brake clean, as the carb & choke cleaner didn't even phase the thickness of the buildup.
well, it didn't help much, it still idles rough, and has that sluggish takeoff, but it did help top end power quite a bit.
the intake plenum gasket is leaking pretty bad, i looked down the intake with the TB off and its just coated with oil everywhere, but would that cause still a rattle at idle, and ping at acceleration?
stev
06-10-2009, 10:58 PM
Yes, it will cause the pinging. Oil will mask the fuel and not burn well in the cylinders. You're 4-cycle engine is running on 2-cycle fuel. Not good.
Get the plenum gasket fixed and soon.
Content Inside :
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Drain the cooling system (refer Cooling System for the proper procedures).
3. Remove the generator/alternator.
4. Remove the air cleaner and it's assembly.
5. Perform the Fuel System Pressure release procedure (refer to Fuel Delivery and Air Induction System). Disconnect the fuel lines. *IMPORTANT STEP.
6. Disconnect the accelerator linkage and if so equipped, the speed control and transmission kickdown cables.
7. Turn the intake manifold upside down while supporting the manifold. To do this, remove the bolts and lift the pan off the manifold.
8. Discard the gasket.
9. Turn the intake manifold upside down. Support the manifold.
10. Place a new plenum pan gasket onto the seal rail of the intake manifold. Position the pan over the gasket.
11. Align all the gasket and pan holes with the intake manifold carefully without damaging the gasket. If you have a friend with steady hands to help with this part call them now. Hand start all bolts.
12. Tighten the bolts, in sequence as follows:
Step 1 - Tighten bolts to 2.7 Nm (24 in. lbs.) torque.
Step 2 - Tighten bolts to 5.4 Nm (48 in. lbs.) torque.
Step 3 - Tighten bolts to 9.5 Nm (84 in. lbs.) torque.
Step 4 - Check that all bolts are tightened to 9.5 Nm (84 in. lbs.) torque.
13. Apply Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, to the four corner joints. An excessive amount of sealant is not required to ensure a leak proof seal. However, an excessive amount of sealant may reduce the effectiveness of the flange gasket. The sealant should be slightly.
14. Install the flange gaskets. Ensure that the vertical port alignment tab is resting on the deck face of the block. Also the horizontal alignment tabs must be in position with the mating cylinder head gasket tabs. The words MANIFOLD SIDE should be visible on the center of each flange gasket.
Step 1 - Tighten bolts 1 through 4, in sequence, to 8 Nm (72 in. lbs.) torque. Tighten in alternating steps 1.4 Nm (12 in. lbs.) torque at a time. Connect the accelerator linkage and if so equipped, the speed control and transmission kickdown cables.
Can't find the rest of the procedure on-line. :YO:
You'll need to hook up the fuel rails and get the fuel system up to pressure again, reattach the air filter housing, and put the alternator back on.
NOTE: If the head has to come off anyways, and it is known that an injector or two are bad, now would be the ideal time to replace them. :)
TiaraRamVan
06-11-2009, 12:00 AM
Ok, thanks for the step-by-step info, i will try to find time this weekend, i already have to replace the valve cover, and oil pan gaskets already, so i might as well get it all done at once.
TiaraRamVan
06-14-2009, 08:19 PM
Ok, got the plenum and intake gaskets replaced yesterday, the rattle is gone, and the pinging is now barely noticable, however it still idles rough, and has that occassional hesitation take off. i ran a compression test on all cylinders as well, all had more than 130psi in each. cleaned IAC, and i again cleaned the throttle body again, this time with a 220 degree steam cleanier. everything was completely clean and shiny. what else would cause the rough idle and slow takeoff? could my IAC motor be bad and need replacment? or is there a test i can do?
97B2500CCV
06-14-2009, 08:27 PM
With as much carbon as you found you may want to run a combustion cleaner such as SeaFoam through your fuel tank. Most recommendations I have seen said to run one can per 1/4 tank of gas.
I have used a vacuum draw type combustion cleaner to help remove the carbon deposits. Most auto parts stores carry the two part cleaner. The first part connects to a vacuum line and as the engine runs the chemical is drawn into the engine. You will see a white to bluish exhaust while this is going on and for a little bit after you finish and test run the vehicle. The other bottle pours into the fuel tank.
TiaraRamVan
06-22-2009, 06:12 PM
ok, update, put some Seafoam in yesterday, by accident, i dumped almost the entire can into the fuel tank. however it still idles rough and has sluggish takeoff. also, i changed the oil Saturday, went from 20W-50 O'Reilly oil w/ Rislone treatment and Microguard oil filter. went back with Mobil 1 Extreme 10W-30 at $7 a quart w/Rislone treatment, and i took another Dodgetalk user's advice and went with a Purolator L30001 oversize oil filter that wasn't made for it. now that rattle is back at the back of the engine. and now that the engine can't suck oil thru the plenum gasket, it now seems to be sucking it thru the PCV valve or crankcase breather, i have taken off the engine cover three days in a row, and all times reveal oil in the air cleaner hat below where the crankcase breather comes out and when looking down the intake, there is oil running down the side of the intake where the PCV valve input is. its like a vampire, its thristy for oil and won't stop at nothing to get it. it has to be sucking it, because the motor has no blow-by at all. i did what i could, i cut a longer pieces of rubber hose and extended the PCV valve and crankcase breather by at least 7 more inches, did nothing to stop it, hasn't changed a thing.
its not throwing any codes, when i do the on-off-on-off-on-off, i get code 55, which means the end of code reading.
i also had the cat converter checked, it is bad, but doesn't seem to be clogged, the muffler man took me out to the shop and hit it with his hand, and it rattled like it has marbles in it.
i think next i will replace the MAP sensor, or unless someone else could give me a better idea.
alloro
06-22-2009, 08:11 PM
the motor has no blow-by at all.
How do you know this?
97B2500CCV
06-22-2009, 08:25 PM
oil in the air cleaner hat below where the crankcase breather comes out
The only way to have oil coming from this breather line is for the piston rings to be worn out. The breather line should only take in air into the crank case to off set what the PCV pulls back into the intake. Since you have oil coming through that breather line then yes the engine has a bad case of blow-by.
Run a compression test and you will find the reading to be low.
leeann
06-22-2009, 10:55 PM
And if your cat rattles like it has marbles in it, it is clogged (at least when exhaust tries to run through it).
TiaraRamVan
06-23-2009, 11:35 PM
ok, in response to "97B2500CCV"
i have ran a compression test, all have had more than 130psi in each cylinder, if this engine does have blow-by, i can't find it, i have put my hand over the crank breather, and oil filer tube while its running and nothing comes out of there, even while revving it around 3,000 rpms, this entire engine has been a big mystery ever since i've owned this van, there is no oil or buildup on the spark plugs, even though its sucking oil, that is the big mystery to me.
as for the catalytic converter, i guess it probably is plugged, that would explain my great 17MPG gas mileage in town and having low power.
as you did state above, it could be the cat-converter, i'll have a new one put on when i get paid, sometime this week
stev
06-24-2009, 11:22 PM
To take car of that Crankcase breather/PVC problem to prevent the oil from seeping into the air-housing and messing up the filter, check out this easy engine mod.
However, it does seem to point that you CAT is clogged and the O2 sensors are messing up too.
alloro
06-25-2009, 11:40 AM
Try this...pull the PCV valve out of the valve cover. Stick a screwdriver down into the hole to see if there is a plate covering the hole. There should be a plate that prevents oil from splashing up into the PCV valve. If this plate is missing, it would explain why you're getting oil up into the hose.
TiaraRamVan
06-29-2009, 06:40 PM
update, i still have not gotten a cat converter, had to buy new tires instead (old were bald). but, there is some things new, that oil in the air cleaner, not oil. i blew out the crank breather, and only condensation in the color of oil came out. i thought it was oil, turns out was oil colored condensation, but still is that normal? as for that plate in the valve cover alloro was saying about, yes, its there. found a way around that too, i went to Advance Auto, and got me a little lawnmower size fuel filter and placed it between the intake port and PCV valve and that seems to work, no oil in the intake for the last four days. the rattle is still there, rocker arm going maybe?
B-300
07-02-2009, 02:33 AM
Rattling could be from the cat con.
As for blow-by, the engine must be under load to produce higher cylinder pressures than what happens at idle or jabbing the accelerator.
