How tough are the A arm bushings to get out and reinstall? are they a 'press' affair. The ball joints seem straight forward and all. How about them? My next door Neighbor is a retired Wrench and has a couple Roll aways with everything there is for wrenching , I mean everything!!! Literally 1,200 to 1,400 lb's worth of tools not counting the roll boxes themselves, Cars, trucks, tractors, 4x4's, all things internal combustion powered. All pro stuff, ie Proto, Mac and the like. What I'm getting at at is the tool thing is sufficient for the job, however how hard is the job? Any of you out there ever did this stuff? I mean stuff like the idler and tie rod ends and all are of course a simple affair, thats a given, and I know the springs are an issue, getting them colapsed and the like, but the actual top and bottom A Arms, how tough? It would appear that they are a very difficult piece to change by virtue of their shape and being 'I believe' a press in interferance fit. Anyone care to elaborate on this job?:IDEA::tup::tup::tup::tup::tup::secret2:
alloro
05-27-2009, 10:13 AM
Everything is fairly straightforward. The lower ball joints press out and back in. However, the uppers are a PITA to remove since the screw out. Not only will you need the correct 4 sided socket, but most times you need a breaker bar and a 6 ft. pipe on it just to break them free. My advice with the uppers is to replace the whole upper control arm with one that comes with the bushings and ball joint already in it.
B-300
05-27-2009, 01:01 PM
I used a PST (Performance suspension technology) urethane kit on mine. (The upper ball joints are the hardest part unless you have the socket and a good impact wrench.)
The urethane bushings use the sleeves in the control arms so you only have to press the old rubber bushing out and slide the new one in with supplied grease. The lower ball joints also require a press.
The front springs can be compressed enough with a jack under the middle of the control arm without a spring compresser if the shock is removed and the van on supports under the frame.
alloro
05-27-2009, 03:36 PM
The upper ball joints are the hardest part unless you have the socket and a good impact wrench.
Not necessarily. :) I have a 3/4" impact wrench the puts out close to 600 ft. lbs. of torque and it wouldn't budge my uppers.
RamVanMan
08-03-2009, 05:28 PM
GoHot229:
How did that front suspension job go ? Get er done ?
I'm about to do it myself. 1996 B2500 with 170 k on the clock.
It's tired out, front end wise. Won' t track well, wants to change lanes if you let go of the wheel, tires wear funny, etc.
I'm looking at that PST urethane performance kit. B 300 recommended it.
Love to hear any feedback from anyone else who has tackled this job......
thanks , David in East Texas
RamVanMan
08-03-2009, 05:40 PM
I think this is the high performance kit for our vans......
Well its on the back burner, but in the next couple months, October or November I will tackle it. I'v been furriously fixing and getting my AMG Deuce and a half military truch roadworthy, liscensed and insured and stuff. Well now is for sure time to get it all ready to get the Van cherried out with the suspention and bits and pieces. So.....soon......
lilredex
08-17-2009, 09:04 PM
Those lower ball joints can be driven out. Place an anvil on the end of your lower control arm then cut a length of pipe that fits loosely over the B/J stud, weld a handle on it if you like and out it goes with one BFH blow(or two). Installation is reverse...line it up properly.
Upper B/J unscrews, if you inspect it, it is square........2 1/8" square. make a socket from appropriate sq. tubing or something as pictured below.
Control arm bushings can be removed with a bolt, washer and appropriate socket or again a length of pipe. Reverse the process to install. The gizmo shown below was made to remove/install spring bushings in oval shaped eyes...........you get the idea.
