Hi, new member here. Owner of 2 dodges - a 1987 mini-ram van (3.0L V6 - still going at 210K)... and now I just picked up a used, forest green, 2000 dodge 3500 Wagon (maxi-van?), 5.9L V8, gas at 49K miles. :)
i offered $3k and they said yes.
It only gets used for touring really, rarely local use (the 87 mini-ram does that). I needed a touring van for my band and so far it looks to be a perfect fit. Took out the rear 2 rows of seats, built a wooden base and added a life-gate (angled behind the 2nd row bench), instruments load in there (I play Hammond Organ/Leslie, it's heavy and big).
Right away I got the rearend redone (I knew it needed it upon buying, howling, worn gears). I had a full brake job done upon it's first outing - $800, emergency :(. Caliper locked, limped into tles schwabb who did the whole front 9and we made the festival. Mopar parts.)
Those were the bad, so far the rest has been great.
I drained trans fluid to ensure it's using ATF+4, plus new filter pan gasket. I flushed rad/cooling system well and refilled. I also did an oil/filter change (castrol or mobile 1 full-synth, 5w-30).
I cleaned my IAC valve (thanks to this forum and folks, resolved a strange idle), cleaned the TB a bit (wasn't too bad in there), new sparks (NGK v-power), new wires, rotor, cap.
Anway, I only use the 3500 when touring, outings 1-2 times a year. Not locally.
I'm wondering things to look out for with these vans (not a heck of a lot of info specific to these vans)...
- the brakes. With the gear and people I'm hauling. Should I watch them like a hawk? How fast do they wear on these type vans? I want safety on the road with the band (and heavy gear in back) so that's why I ask
What brand of brake pads do you guys use/like (long lasting, quality)?
- The AC. It's working and I'd like to keep it running well (when sitting a long time I'll start it up once a month and run to keep AC parts in there lubricated/moving).
How often would I be due for a freeon refill if van is used pretty rarely you think?
How easy is it to do my own AC refill when it comes time? What's needed and what brands you like?
- transmission. I need to read up on. Can someone tell me the transmission I have in the 2K B3500 maxi-wagon? I'd like to do my best to make it last.
- the engine. I'm avoiding use of trailers for touring ($ mpg, strain, pita with gear, etc. but I may feel the need once or twice. Are these engines/trans quite capable ...or will it bring on too many concerns problems?
- what type of sparks do you guys prefer in these?
What brand and size wires?
- Entertainment. Not high priority but I'm thinking of buying a ceiling flip-down monitor (10in to 12.5 max I'd say) for the dudes and long drives. I can output my portable player into the video in, they can watch movies, etc.
Just a cheap model I see on ebay (TKO or TView brands TFT monitor).
I'd like to mount it behind the driver side seat though (not dead center). Do you guys know if I can find a bar/metal there to mount the base ? - or is that only going to be down the centerline of the van?
it just would work really well there driverside/just behind.
I had an alarm put in too (for music gear, etc. concerns). I don't want to mess with that. My other question with the monitor would be where to tap into the 12+ v (pwr and accessory lines for the screen). Where by the radio (I have the stock radio/cassette in there) might I tap in, or what fuses should I use? I want to ensure the monitor is OFF when the van is off..
Welcome to the forum. Lots of room in these haulers. What was the explanation for it needing a rearend at only 49K?
landyacht318
05-21-2009, 02:01 PM
Man you pack a lot of questions into one post!
I give a go at a couple of them.
About the tranny model, get your VIN number off the dash or rego and call a Dodge dealer while they still exist, The parts guys can tell you what came stock on your vehicle.
If you had your brakes done recently I wouldn't worry about them too much. I''m on my third set of front pads and one rear in 70 k miles. Monitor the fluid level. My latest pads are the most expensive ones from NAPA, and they have more material, and are quiet, and after 15k miles still have lots of material left.
I am also interested why the diff needed to be rebuilt at 47k miles. Mine lasted to 190k. And the previous owner was hauling around a 25 boat from Florida to NY 2 times a year.
The previous owner on yours must have been doing donuts regularly or hauling heavy heavy loads or ran it low on fluid.
I don't know about the A/C but it is important to exercise the heater in the summer months as well.
I also use synthetic oil for the extended drain intervals, added protection and the fact that it makes my lifters silent on start up. Apparently synthetic in the diff adds the most hp on the Dyno, if the guys on 2 guys garage are right.
Four years ago I put in a set of Bosch 2 electrode platinums. I think Autolites are the most approved plug for our engines.
I have a set of Taylor wires. 8mm.~ 35 dollars. They have lasted so far longer than any others I've tried.
About making your tranny last, It all about keeping it from letting it get too hot. If you don't already have one, add an external cooler in addition to the one in the stock radiator. If your radiator is old you might want to preemptively replace it.
Also, Turn off the overdrive when climbing any grade, even if the engine has enough power to get you up in overdrive.
It's good you dropped the pan and replaced the old with ATF +4, but you only got half the old fluid out. You might want to do it again and add a drain plug to the Pan as well. It makes it simple to drop 4 quarts and replace them without dropping the pan. It is possible to add another external filter on the lines to the tranny, but this could be argued as redundant because the fluid has already passed through one filter before reaching the second, and will just add more restriction to the flow.
You can tap into the stereo's current power line for your entertainment.
I do the opposite (directly to batteries) because I hate having the stereo turn on and off when turning the key to raise or lower windows or start the engine, or to have the key in and on to listen to the stereo, with that annoying door open buzzer, which was my first modification on purchase. Locate and remove and destroy.
I would recommend a set of airbags or add a leaf type helper springs for the rear to keep others from flashing their brightes at you at night when heavily loaded. It helps body roll as well. In your Photo it looks like your rear is already sitting a little low.
Good luck, I'm sure the far more knowledgeable people on this site can add more or refute my opinions.
97B2500CCV
05-21-2009, 05:55 PM
On the AC your is 134a and any brand of them will work fine. I have tried some that claim to work better and have not seen any difference from the 30 pound bottle of just straight 134a freon. Cycle the AC even in the winter to help keep the seals lubed and tight which helps keep the freon in the system.
It is easy to recharge. Best to and recommended to read up on the system operation before you do one and know where to keep the low pressure reading at. Most systems want between 25 and 45 pounds on the low side when the system is on. You can use the single low pressure gage with can but for the best understanding of what is going on you really should have the dual gage unit. You cannot mix up where to put the freon in for the low pressure is smaller than the high pressure port.
stev
05-22-2009, 01:11 AM
So, you bought a 15-passenger Dodge Ram van BUS. haha.
Don't feel bad, I have about the same van, but in a B2500 12-passenger.
I've been towing often with the van. As matter of fact is that these vans made after 2000 are heavy duty for towing. The ratings is nearly the highest by today's standards of 6,600lbs or better.
Your van must have the rear HVAC unit like mine. Living up north with salted roads in the winter can damage the AC lines really bad. Keep those aluminum lines covered or paint a good epoxy over them. Put a sealed wrap over the fitting areas too. These lines are located just under the driver's side body behind the driver's door.
As for brakes, it depends on the moisture or a over night rain that causes them to have the sudden bite/grab issue. Usually that clears up after stop-n-go a few times in the morning. The brakes are otherwise great overall. The rear ABS does well in the snow.
Glad to hear you cleaned the IAC. Hopefully you had found my DIY photo thread with the steps. ;) It's Spring time once again, so I'll be doing mine shorty too.
JoeRamWagon
05-26-2009, 01:42 PM
:tup:Hello,
Thanks for the info there! Yeah, I don't really know what to say about the rearend work. Like I said the van was moving well, but I just heard a howling and a couple techs said that the pinion/gears will make that sound if they're wearing. I just think it was neglect of fluids, etc., best guess. Especially since they neglected the front brake hardware which was obvious. At $3k for the thing and everything else checking out I just said screw it, spend the $ and get it fixed.
In the pic you see the van was fully loaded with gear and rest of band sleeping while I pulled off by the beach. In the back was a hammond A101 organ (590lbs), it's leslie speaker (160lbs), pedals/bench (60lbs), gtr amps, drumset, lifecage.
So I think that's why you see the rear at that height.
I'd REALLY like to do what I can (affordably?) to help that though...anyone have any links to the added suspension ideas (helper springs? etc?) to help with loads like this?
What are they called and how hard is it to add?
How aften should I change oil now that I switched to full synth (and that it's very rarely driven) ya think?
I do have the stock trans cooler (small, located upper right facing front, next to top of radiator). Would you reccomend adding another cooler...or swapping in a larger/better cooler in it's place?
When looking at that trans cooler....which end is the flow IN or ch is flow OUT?
Any links to a good/better cooler I can purchase online?
I'd like to get this done first just to be safe. Not pulling any trailers for a while, but going out on tour again June-thru-July.
Lasty, I cannot find a good B3500 maxi-van service manual (all I found was a dodge truck 3500 Haynes which I bought). Can I find a van specific service manual out there? Where?
* yes - a cleaning of the IAC put a stop to the odd idle (cold). A bit a revving before settling.
The idle purrs now thanks to you cats!!
** I'm not sure I understand the info on the A/C reply...I know I'll have more Q's on that soon (would very much like to know how to PROPERLY add freezant myself/maintain/etc. You know - if you want it done right.... (firm believer in that).
sorry for more Q's and thanks so much for the help you guys!!
landyacht318
05-26-2009, 02:06 PM
About the rear suspension help.
Google Firestone riderite
Airlift.
helwig
roadmaster.
I went with airbags for the ease of adjustability side to side.
If you can clean the IAC, you can install any of the above products yourself.
There is the school of thought that you should change your oil yearly or seasonly regardless of mileage. Google oil change interval and you could spend days reading differing opinions.
I just went 18 months, 4000 miles on mobil 1, and the oil was brown, not black.
My external tranny cooler is about 8 x 10 inches. I don't think a larger one or dual ones would make a difference unless you are pulling up grades in overdrive continuously in 120 degree weather. In and out lines depend on who installed it. More important is is it before or after the radiators's cooler? and there is plenty of argument which is better.
Just keep fresh synthetic atf+4 in there and it'll be fine. If you suspect overheating, smell the fluid, it will be obviously browner than pink and smell burnt.
And besides the length of the driveshaft I don't think there are too many differences in what a FSM will tell you about a maxivan than a regular 3500. Try ebay for your year and model 3500
97B2500CCV
05-26-2009, 10:56 PM
I'm not sure I understand the info on the A/C reply...I know I'll have more Q's on that soon (would very much like to know how to PROPERLY add freezant myself/maintain/etc. You know - if you want it done right.... (firm believer in that).
Doing the AC yourself depends on what you want to spend in tools. Charging the system that does work but has a slow leak is some what easy and not very expensive. Having to replace parts like the compressor, evaporator core, condenser, dryer and lines does require more tools such as the complete AC gauges and a vacuum pump.
Auto Zone has a DVD that explains the AC system and replacing parts to some degree, it is called: Diagnosing and Repairing Air Conditioning Systems with Bruce Bonebrake. It is about $10.00.
van-nut
05-27-2009, 08:18 PM
Couple random thoughts....
If you have the owners manual, double check on what it specifies for oil viscosity - both the owners manual and FSM for my '98 5.9 recomend 10W30. Maybe that changed for '00, but check to be sure.
Is your axle a limited slip? The 9.25 limited slip axles had problems with clips breaking in them. Possibly that was your issue??
If you plan to keep the van for a while and/or do most of the work on it yourself, get a factory service manual off of Ebay for your year. They are titled "Ram Van/Wagon" and "Rear Wheel Drive". Best money you will ever spend, IMHO.
Lastly, just an FYI, if you don't know - the transmissions in these vans do NOT circulate the fluid in PARK. But they DO in NEUTRAL. If you start it up occasionally to "circulate the fluids", you may want to shift in to neutral.
Nice van, BTW! Take care of her and she'll take care of you! Mine's got 127K miles on it now and still runs great.
Pete
97B2500CCV
05-27-2009, 08:27 PM
If you plan to keep the van for a while and/or do most of the work on it yourself, get a factory service manual off of Ebay for your year. They are titled "Ram Van/Wagon" and "Rear Wheel Drive". Best money you will ever spend, IMHO.
Pete
I second that. Got mine from E-bay plus I already had a Haynes and the Mitchell On Demand 5.8 computer software service manuals. Over all I like the authentic Dodge Service Manual best, it is worth every penny.
JoeRamWagon
05-28-2009, 05:28 AM
Hey now that's weird, I just purchased the oem service manual just today on ebay for $22.00 (4 books in all, orange covers, 2000 van/wagon).
I came back here to check and saw your replies.:tup:
Bandit2
06-04-2009, 02:24 AM
Hi
I bought the same van as You , same color even from a Rock Band , the biggest expence We had before going cross country from Boston to San Diego , with 4 weeks in Az. , was having it professionally cleaned to get rid of the " funny smell " , good thing too . We went through 8 Border Patrol Check Stations .
It had a "New 360 " with 5.000 mi. compliments of a fast oil change place .
The first improvement I am going to make , is install a full set of Timbren's , when the Tractor Trailers pass You , You will know why .
Bob
Mad Joe
06-09-2009, 02:22 PM
Hey Joe....where you goin'......
I sold my '86 Maxie back 6 moths ago, but i may be able to give you some help.
I used my van to haul sound gear also (heavy load) for 17 years. Mine was a 3/4 ton Masxie and not the 1 ton like you have. I took my van to a spring shop fully loaded and they added enough leafs to the rear to make it sit level. Since I usually kept mine fully loaded when driving, I didn't really have any issues. I also had the spring shop install H.D. coils up front.
