First post - 1995 3.0 V6 timing mark question

[Square]

Hi all,

I have A 1995 Caraven SE with the 3.0 V6. It has just over 200,000 miles on it and I would like to change the timing belt as routine maintenance. I am also planning on changing the timing belt tension ans spring, water pump, spark plugs, drive belts, and serpentine tensioner as well.

My question is about setting the engine to Top Dead Center. I have done this successfully on a small block Chevy V8 before. On the Caravan, I see 3 equally spaced notches on the pully next to the timing indicator tab, none of which point at the #1 plug point on the distributor when they are at 0 degrees. My question is - what does the timing mark look like on this engine and which pully is it on (serpintine or A/C pully).

Thanks!

[Rick99]

I can't answer that question, but usually when you do a timing belt you remove the vibration damper and the timing belt covers, then put a bolt in the crankshaft and turn it to line up the timing marks on the timing belt sprockets.

[mfahey]

It's been a long time since I did this to our 3.0 but I don't remember getting it to TDC before taking it apart. It seems to me that the marks on the two cam sprockets and the crank pulley were marked so that after you get it apart, you move everything until they line up. BTW, very smart move to do the water pump at the same time.

[Square]

Thanks guys!

My backup plan was to align it after the covers were off, but it is much nicer knowing that I am not doing something stupid by doing that. When I do line it up I plan on trying to figure out where the timing mark is. I will post my results.



Thanks again!

[Square]

Hi,

Do you have to remove the A/C compressor and bracket to get the engine mount plate off?

Thanks!

[mfahey]

I didn't on our 88 but I can't say about your year.

[Square]

Hi guys,

I did have to remove the A/C bracket...and the power steering pump, to get the timing chain covers off. I was surprised at how new the belt and tensioner assembly looked. No signs of wear at all.

The water pump has a small bracket blocking the top bolt. The bracket originally had 3 bolts holding it onto the van, but now has 2. The problem is that I can't see how to remove the 2 bolts without removing the piece of the engine that the thermostat housing bolts to, and if I am not mistaken, that would be the lower intake manifold. Am I wrong about this? I find it hard to believe that you have to remove the timing belt AND the intake manifold to change the water pump?!

Thanks guys.

[mfahey]

Actually, I take back my comment about not having to remove the AC bracket. I know when I changed the timing belt and water pump on our 88, the intake was already off because I also had to pull the heads to fix the dreaded Mitsubishi defective exhaust valve guides. There is a tube that connects to the back of the pump that goes underneath the intake plenum. As I remember, it slides in and is sealed with an O-ring so maybe it is possible to get it in without dislodging the O-ring.

[StandOnCliff]

The intake does not need to come off. I believe your trying to remove the wrong bolts. The ones that go around the water pump actually hold a cover on the back of the water pump. They get changed once the water pump is out. I've included a picture of the bolts you need to remove from the water pump. They are in red circles. If you can't get the water pump to clear that bracket it won't hurt to give it a little bend up to allow clearance. Bend it back down when new pump is reinstalled.
This picture will also help you for the timing mark locations.

[Square]

Hi Guys,

I got the van back together this weekend. It started first try ( :rck: ), but it has a decently loud "tock, tock, tock" sound that folows engine RPM. It made this sound before the timing belt change, but it was intermittant and much quieter. I have only pulled the van out of the garage and have not let it come up to temp or driven it more than about 50 feet. Could this be a case where I just need to let the oil get back into the engine and come up to operating temp? I know I have heard other FWD cars make this noise before, but I would appreciate your input on what causes it.

Thanks!

[StandOnCliff]

Sounds like a weak lifter. They usually will quit the ticking or at least quite down after it reaches full operating temp. The only real way to totally get rid of the tick is to change the lifters.
To make sure it is that you can use a screwdriver or a piece of a hose. Put your ear to the hose or the screwdriver handle. You can probe with it to find out exactly where the tick is coming from by touching the other end to valve covers and such. If it's under the valve cover it's most likely a lifter that bled down (which they are not supposed to do,hence weak lifter) and now needs the oil warmed up to fill it back up.

[Square]

Hi,

It did seem to be a weak lifter. As you described, once the motor got warm and I gave it a few gradually increasing revs, the noise dissapated.

I have taken it for a couple of local test drives, and all seems well.

Thanks!