Has anyone done this conversion? i thought i saw a thread on here for it but i can't find it. Do they sell an aftermarket bracket for it? I want to change this while i'm doing my new wiring harness change over.
74D100
03-07-2009, 08:31 PM
Are you talking about a chevy 1-wire alt. If so I have one on my D100.
thejudges69
03-07-2009, 09:53 PM
yeah the gm alternator any info I need to know or do u have pics? did you have to change brackets? I wanna do this to do away with my voltage regulator.
74D100
03-07-2009, 10:33 PM
I don't have any pics but I did do the gm H.E.I swap. If I remember right it bypasses the voltage reg. and the ballist resistor. I just ran the wire from the alt. straight to the (+)side of the battery. And I also ran a (+ and -)wire through a toggle switch from the coil to the battery, for my master disconect for the strip.
thejudges69
03-07-2009, 11:57 PM
ok that sounds right, i won't need the toggle for the strip mines an everyday driver. i'm going to go to the internal single wire alternator and use an MSD ignition box to do away with the ballast resistor and ECU cause i'm doing and aftermarket wiring harness swap right now, this will save me a lot of extra wiring. did you have to change brackets around or was it a good fit?
read this before you put a one-wire alternator in place of your three-wire setup.
thejudges69
03-08-2009, 12:09 PM
I think after reading that that maybe i'm on the wrong page with myself. more or less what i wanna do is go to an internal regulator. The old addage, the less connnections you have the less prone you are for leaks and i'd like to simplify everything. Today i'm going to look at my wifes alternator on her S-10 pickup and see what kinda setup it is and try to figure out which will be better.
3834B
03-08-2009, 12:42 PM
When it comes to starters and alternators there is Denso and a distant everyone else. Chrysler went with them some time in the late eighties I think. There an oustanding product. Large fleets also make conversions to the Denso brand when the OEM part fails.
74D100
03-08-2009, 11:36 PM
You can use the H.E.I. with the Dodge alt to. I'm not really electrially inclined. But I strongly recommend the H.E.I. It's an inernal reg. to if I'm correct. It gets rid of the ballist resistor and the ecu. I was wrong about the volt. reg. Here is the link.
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203358
bherder
03-09-2009, 12:33 AM
The 'charging/alternator' system and the 'ignition' system are two totally different systems. (Granted, they are interlocked, because the ignition system draws power from the alternator/charging system, once the engine is running) but they are theoretically independent of the other... For example, if your alternator system were to fail for whatever reason, the ignition system will still function as long as there is juice in the battery....
Talking HEI and charging/alternator systems in the same breath is just going to confuse people.. ;)
Judge, the normal '3 wire' type alt/charging system (IMHO) ... is a much better system. Even with an external VR, the Mopar system was about as simple and reliable as it gets. (Keep in mind that even with an internal VR, there are still 'connections' ... They just don't happen to have a hunk of wire between them :D ) The factory Mopar external VR charging system works VERY well as long as (Like everything else) you keep it maintained... and is easy to understand once you know how it all works. You can do it in your sleep after that... :D
Maybe one of these days I'll write a 'How Your Alternator/Charging System Works' kinda thing, for our particular rigs...
strictly gravy
03-10-2009, 08:10 AM
Thanks for posting that madelectrical link. Looks like my plans have changed for this weekend.
-Greg
B-300
03-10-2009, 01:09 PM
What they don't mention in madelectrical is that if the problem spots of the ammeter and bulkhead connection aren't in good working order is a single wire alternator will burn itself out try to charge a battery that the regulator of a single wire alternator can't sense... A single wire alternator should connect directly to the battery fo this reason.
Powermaster makes one that uses the original Dodge alternator (no brackets required). It's costly and requires direct connection to the battery.
75 Power Wagon
03-10-2009, 09:43 PM
What they don't mention in madelectrical is that if the problem spots of the ammeter and bulkhead connection aren't in good working order is a single wire alternator will burn itself out try to charge a battery that the regulator of a single wire alternator can't sense... A single wire alternator should connect directly to the battery fo this reason.
Powermaster makes one that uses the original Dodge alternator (no brackets required). It's costly and requires direct connection to the battery.
If you look a little more at madelectrical, they have a big write-up about bypassing your ammeter... I would follow that to the T.
bherder
03-10-2009, 10:57 PM
If you look a little more at madelectrical, they have a big write-up about bypassing your ammeter... I would follow that to the T.
I would also... And have :D
But for the 'purist' I have developed a way you can 'bullet-proof' the ammeter system with no probs, IF, one feels thats the way they wanna go.... I've made 1/2 dozen of these so far, and so far, SO GOOD :D
A 'How To' coming soon for our trucks and those who care. It's a lot of work, and not sure if it's worth the trouble, but if nothing else, an interesting read...
Plus I just wanted to see if I could DO it or not.... ;D
76D100
03-10-2009, 11:26 PM
what is this mod you speak of? after something in my amp meter went for a crap last winter I by passed it with a fused link. So far so good! The meter still works too!
75 Power Wagon
03-10-2009, 11:48 PM
heres the writeup about bypassing your ammeter:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
Since you are having such fun rewiring everything... I will also give you a link to wiring up headlight relays, or at least an article on why you should.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/brighter-headlights.shtml
76D100
03-11-2009, 07:00 AM
I have halogen lights in my truck now, and like said not very bright but much better then the old ones. What exactly is this guy doing here, running a wire from the head light switch to relays connected to the battery for the lights?
Megunticook
03-11-2009, 07:58 AM
But for the 'purist' I have developed a way you can 'bullet-proof' the ammeter system with no probs, IF, one feels thats the way they wanna go.... I've made 1/2 dozen of these so far, and so far, SO GOOD :D
A 'How To' coming soon for our trucks and those who care. It's a lot of work, and not sure if it's worth the trouble, but if nothing else, an interesting read...
Plus I just wanted to see if I could DO it or not.... ;D
Be interested to see this, I kept my ammeter (not because I'm a "purist" but because I like the info. it provides), but got rid of the bulkhead connector, rewired everything in the charging circuit, and (I think) made it pretty "bulletproof." But I'd like to see what approach you take on this...
75 Power Wagon
03-27-2009, 11:46 PM
Well, doing some research for my wiring harness that i'm probably gonna get through from ron francis for next winter...
anyways, I'm thinking im probably gonna go with a 100A one-wire alternator when I decide to do the wiring now. Ron Francis strongly suggested the one-wire setup, and March Performances offers a polished alternator that will work with my pulleys so that's what im gonna do this next winter.
bherder
03-28-2009, 12:41 AM
Against your own advice?
Say Joel, do you think it might be that it's because Francis/March sells these systems? ;)
DiverDwnPowrRam
03-28-2009, 12:58 AM
you mean like a biased opinion Bruce...naaaahh never happen.
bherder
03-28-2009, 01:03 AM
ME? Never.... :D
(As long as it's not metric wire...)
DiverDwnPowrRam
03-28-2009, 01:27 AM
he he he here we go again...
75 Power Wagon
03-28-2009, 01:44 AM
Against your own advice?
Say Joel, do you think it might be that it's because Francis/March sells these systems? ;)
well, the 75A simply does not keep up with my electrical system anymore.
So I need something with a stock case, and the only thing bigger than the 75a in the stock case is March's.
So therefore, that kinda makes my decision a little tougher when I need more output, and there is nothing in a stock case bigger than 75a except march's 100a one-wire.
And, I do recommend reading that article first... as I have.
but look at his reasons...
1. I do not have a warning light in the dash for the alternator.
2. remote "voltage sensing" in the original-style wiring harness, won't exist.
3. available at all auto parts stores? who cares?
4. least expensive? who cares?
also keep in mind, they are comparing alternators with INTERNAL regulators, that are one-wire vs three-wire. They are not comparing a one-wire with internal regulator vs. a three-wire with an EXTERNAL regulator.
needless to say, I think I'm better off going with the one-wire setup in my situation.
bherder
03-28-2009, 02:17 AM
Well .... I've got a 'stock' 120a geeeenuiene mopar alt .... Yeah, it's as big as a barrel and takes three kids and two dogs to lift it, but it works pretty sweet AND with a little work, you can shine her up pretty nice .... ;)
Well .... I've got a 'stock' 120a geeeenuiene mopar alt .... Yeah, it's as big as a barrel and takes three kids and two dogs to lift it, but it works pretty sweet AND with a little work, you can shine her up pretty nice .... ;)
That case will NOT work with the march performance brackets I went with.
six popper
03-28-2009, 05:20 PM
I have just recently bought a POWERMASTER 140 one wire for my truck. It was listed for V motors I'm hoping it will work on my L6.
thejudges69
03-28-2009, 07:55 PM
That case will NOT work with the march performance brackets I went with.
Well the shop i'm getting my alt. from says that with the CS130 gm alt. you'll need the adjustment mount on the alternator at the 10 o'clock position when the solid mount is at 6. don't know what kinda price you got but a CS130 at 105 amps is $115.00 plus $12.00 shipping thats chromed with a serpentine or double groove pulley for V-belts. i looked at that march performance website and talked to them. some of there stuff is really expensive, i priced my mounting brackets from summit at $65.00 for aluminum and stainless mount.
