2003 Caravan - Starter won't engage

[headrush]

Story: wouldn't start about 2 weeks ago during worst winter storm so far this year. Stuck in local high school parking lot. Came back the next day and it started so I took it to a mechanic and $300 later it is "fixed" with a new battery and $100 worth of wiring repair. The afternoon before New Years day we had the same problem. Tapped on the starter with a hammer and it started. Tapping worked at least one more time. 2 days later would not start in a mall parking lot. Bought a torch and heated up the starter (and surrounding area) and then it started. Replaced starter with rebuilt from Autozone. 2 starts later it won't start. It has been very cold the last 3 days - highs in teens, lows around zero.

The starter doesn't turn over and the solinoid doesn't click. The relay always clicks. I believe this means all other systems are go, right? It's an automatic. So the problem must be either in the starter, the relay, or in the wiring between the relay/battery/starter? All evidence pointed strongly towards the starter and I am wondering if there is either a basic design problem with this starter in cold weather or if my rebuilt starter was just cleaned off and painted. Although it does seem very unlikely that another starter would seem to have the same problem. Any advice is appreciated.

[Dakotah18]

It sounds like there is a break in continuity from the relay to the starter, this would cause an intermittent problem

[91AWD3.3]

I don't have any cold wx starter motor issues on a 91 3.3 & way colder 'round these parts.

You could try hooking up a remote starter switch (should be ~ 10 bucks) direct from the BAT to the starter motor. If that works, means the starter motor is ok & something else is wrong.

Bit of a pia in that you have to pop the hood to hit the temporary start switch but gets you around. If you try this, make sure the ignition key is in the run position or motor won't fire.

Usually unlikely but possible that a fresh part fails right away. Unusual though that it would act up in exactly the same way (if it is..) & sorta points to something else wrong.

[Rick99]

or if my rebuilt starter was just cleaned off and painted.


That's called a "spray and pray" part.

I've never had much luck with remanufactured parts. I have almost always had to return them and finally just bought new. If the starter relay is clicking and the solenoid is not, check for power at the solenoid. If there's power, the problem is the solenoid itself.

Speaking from experience as a DIYer-- the true cost of a part is in reliability and the labor to install it, even if you install it yourself, it's not worth saving even $200 if the car leaves you stuck in a frozen parking lot and you have to have it towed home and do the job again.

The starter in my recently purchased 97 Sebring just died on me. I have a receipt from the prior owner showing it was replaced with a reman about a year ago. I see I can get a new one on Rockauto.com for about $140 and that's what I plan to do.

[johnnydodge]

THIS PROBLEM SEEMS FAMILIAR TO ME ! I did all the "tricks" including the remote start from batt to starter,changed the starter,the relay, checked out the ign switch itself.Yes my relay was clicking as well. The car was dependable as the sun then after two or sometimes 8 days days,it would let me down. Same thing.....hit the starter or wait a while and magically it would start....time after time! After three months of suffering with this I took the advice of an old mechanic.......just poke around and look,look,look. The final fix was tugging on wiring less than gently. Revealed was the fact that the ground cable going to the side of the transmission case was loose/corroded in it's factory crimped lug end...in fact it pulled out of the lug end with relative ease. It was a PITA to duplicate the factory location, so I just made up a new cable and ran it to safe area on the trans case that was far easier to reach. That was 3 years ago and 34k miles under its belt......still running like new. Check it out

[johnnydodge]

Just an add on to the above.....everyone looks to lack of power being sent to whatever is not fuctioning. All the power in the world is nothing without a good ground...... in fact a poor ground can cause other troubles as the power being introduced can "look" for ground elsewhere and fry or damage components with a lesser ground ability. If you have the unfortunate chance of the van letting you down before you get it to a garage, use your jumper cables to make a Mcguyver style ground connection from the negative on the battery to the engine block or trans case....it may prove me right....or wrong.But it's a free test which eliminates or includes a bad ground to help solve your dilemma.