Carb Overload

[dodged100]

ok here we go, I got the big 2bbl holley on my 318. I have the 360 intake. I know nothing about carbs besides bolting it down. My plugs are lasting about a week before getting black and sooty. TOO MUCH FUEL, Right? Well I thought maybe the jets in the big carb were too much for the 318. I have a spare big 2bbl holley also thought about rebuilding it and rejetting it or having it done by a carb guy cause i never rebuilt a carb. I dont even know what screw does what. Im going to try to post some pics I took of the carb on the motor, the spare I have and the old 2bbl i pulled off it that came on the 318. Hopefully I can figure this out cause Im spending $16 a week on plugs.<a href="http://s454.photobucket.com/albums/qq261/sloane2361/?action=view&current=DSC01002.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i454.photobucket.com/albums/qq261/sloane2361/DSC01002.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a><a href="http://s454.photobucket.com/albums/qq261/sloane2361/?action=view&current=DSC01001.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i454.photobucket.com/albums/qq261/sloane2361/DSC01001.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a><a href="http://s454.photobucket.com/albums/qq261/sloane2361/?action=view&current=DSC01048.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i454.photobucket.com/albums/qq261/sloane2361/DSC01048.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a><a href="http://s454.photobucket.com/albums/qq261/sloane2361/?action=view&current=DSC01051.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i454.photobucket.com/albums/qq261/sloane2361/DSC01051.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

[dodged100]

ok i really screwed up that photobucket thing. which one do i copy n paste? I did the html code.

[dodged100]

http://i454.photobucket.com/albums/qq261/sloane2361/DSC01001.jpg

[dodged100]

ok figured it out. here they arehttp://i454.photobucket.com/albums/qq261/sloane2361/DSC01048.jpghttp://i454.photobucket.com/albums/qq261/sloane2361/DSC01051.jpg

[DiverDwnPowrRam]

first is a holley 2210 and second is an 1800 my 78 plymouth van had the second carb and it ran great

[volaredon]

what is the difference between a 2210 and a 2245; they are usually listed together in catalogs and repair manuals.The 2nd carb you show is just a garden variety 318 issue, BBD. (Carter) And I have run that big Holley on 318s before using the 360 intake without a hitch! Actually ran damn decent.

[dodged100]

well i got the 360 intake so im stuck with the big one i found my haynes and it looked like the holley 2210. So now that i got my haynes. What is the poor mans way to adjust my fuel mixture before i start rebuilding anything. I dont understand the idle spring screws

[fins2fuselage]

Dodged,

The idle screws (at the front of the base; they go in at an angle) affect only the idle mixture. Clockwise rotation = leaner. Start at 1.5 turns out from seated (lightly). There is no adjustment for the main metering circuit.

If a carb runs so rich that it fouls the plugs, it is usually flooding rather than metering too much fuel. Either that, or the choke isn't opening completely when warm. Check it after the truck has run about five or six minutes and be sure that the choke blade is straight up and down.

BUT . . .

An ignition system which is providing inadequate spark can cause the same symptom!

The carburetor is a complex device, so I would not disassemble it to "check it out". It is also difficult for the novice to diagnose.

Instead, obtain a spark tester and put it in line between the plug wire and the spark plug. If you have weak fire (orange spark), try hooking the spark tester directly to ground. Good fire? Then you have bad plugs (yes, I know they are new -- but they aren't Bosch, so they are suspect).

On the other hand, if you have bad fire going to ground then you have an ignition problem upstream of the plugs. The ignition system is a LOT easier to work on than the carb, so first determine if your ignition system might (still) be the culprit.

Jeff

P.S.

If you use resistor spark plugs, there is no successful way to clean them after they are fouled with gas or oil. They must be replaced.

J.

[sgillett]

The carb can flood if the float is damaged or adjusted WAY too high.
My $.02

[Speed Dragon]

When it is running, look down the throat w/ a light and see if there is fuel dripping or running down into the engine. If so, then it is flooding, float level is too high, or dirt stuck in the needle valve (fuel inlet).

If it's just a fine spray that you can see hitting the throttle plates, then it's fine. Definitely adjust the idle mix screws, they are what makes it idle right. Adjust them a half turn at a time, you want the highest smoothest idle speed. Once you have that, adjust the curb idle speed (the screw on the throttle lever that doesn't touch the plastic part) to get the idle speed right again. Should be around 800-850 on an automatic truck. You may also want to check the timing again afterward too.

[dodged100]

well maybe this may help. If my truck is in P then it idles high. I drop it into D then its lower. Also my trans kickdown cable is not connected to my carb so it seems to rev real high while driving and on the highway it seems to work way too much.

[Speed Dragon]

Could be a vacuum leak. And if the kick-down rod is laying all the way back, the trans is gonna think the engine is WOT all the time and shift higher.

[dodged100]

the trans kickdown rod is not hooked up to the carb

[dodged100]

ok i got home from work and checked the choke after my 15 min. drive home and it was still partially closed. So i guess this may be the culprit on fouling out my plugs so quick. Got into the haynes manual and i figured it may be the choke control switch. I always had choke problems on this motor even after switching carbs. So that comes to mind right off the bat. If it is that where can i get one? If i disconnect the choke and run it wide open will it be ok? Or will my engine never worm up in the cold?

[dodged100]

what about a manual choke conversion to just bypass this whole problem? Where could i find a kit for the holley 2210 and is it pretty easy. Its just a cable that goes from a knob up to the choke valve RIGHT???

[charlie1935]

Autozone, Oriellys, and summit has manual choke kits. Don't know if they will work on your carb or not. :gr_patrio

[C1DoG]

what about a manual choke conversion to just bypass this whole problem? Where could i find a kit for the holley 2210 and is it pretty easy. Its just a cable that goes from a knob up to the choke valve RIGHT???

Holley carburetors with chokes will come equipped with either a
manual, electric or hot air choke. All Holley square flange carburetors
originally equipped with either a manual or hot air choke can be
converted to automatic electric choke operation with the proper kit.
Conversely, those equipped with either an electric or hot air choke can
be converted to manual choke operation with the proper kit.


This is straight from the holley website.

[dodged100]

so the universal manual choke cable wont work that autozone has. I just have to hook it up to the choke plate linkage i think???

[dodged100]

ok I may have found the part haynes was talking about. Haynes called it the choke control switch but i think i found it a NAPA under the choke assist # 21695. It sure looks the same with the 2 prongs and all. Does anyone know if thats it?

[Delray Dude]

I've just read through this thread. A few questions and comments here.

When you checked the choke after warmed up, was the engine still running?

That vacuum diapram on the side controls the choke door and may be overiding the choke spring.

To determine if the coke is the problem - you can take some wire and tie the choke door to straight up and down via the linkage (where the rod and diaphram are) to somewhere close on the engine.

The truck will want to stall when cold in cold weather - but after warming up, should run fine without fouling out the plugs.

I'm lucky in the fact that down here in Ft. Lauderdale, it rarely gets under 65 degrees and I disable or totally remove the choke doors on my carbs, and the days it is a bit cool, I feather the throttle for the few minuntes it needs to warm the engine up.

[dodged100]

yes the engine was still running. So your saying you think i should tie down the linkage so the carb plate in the middle of the carb stays open at all times.

[Delray Dude]

yes the engine was still running. So your saying you think i should tie down the linkage so the carb plate in the middle of the carb stays open at all times.



Yeah. I'd try it to see what happens....I'd run a wire / bread tie /zip tie from that metal mounting plate in your 1st pic down around that vacuum port directly below it and make sure the coke plate is secured in the open position (straight up and down). Then drive it and see if the truck runs like it should. It might have a tendency to stall for the 1st few minutes when cold, but after it heats up, it should run great. If it does then your choke was the problem, and you can try to fix it or live with feathering the throttle for the 1st few minutes in cold weather. I know my 318 never has the cold issue here when the temp is over 70 (which is 99% of the time), and when it's a bit cold, it's usually less than 3-4 minutes of a little throttle play and she runs great.

[dodged100]

yes the engine was still running. I think I am going to put a manual choke on it and call it a day.

[volaredon]

that diaphram (also called a choke pull off) could be bad ; or the vac line TO it could be bad OR the nipple that supplies vacuum to it could be clogged with carbon. This was common and would be easier than dealing with a hand choke(manual choke)