oil treatment question

[tm500016]

i have a 85 d150 318 has about 160000 miles on it and i was wondering if anyone used Restore engine treatment.dose it help restore compression and quiet an engine. my motor has a slight nock when its cold.

[threetwos]

I wouldnt use that crap! It contains abrasives, that ;plate' themselves against the bearings and cylinders! It's "snake oil'. Chrysler has never suggested the use of any oil additives. Ever. Any oil that 'needs' additives is lacking in 'something' if you want to use an oil that exceeds the factory ratings try Amsoil. It's all I ever use.:tup:

[beatersdigest]

I agree with threetwos. Additives are not recommended by ANY oil manufacturer that I know of. Be very careful with the claims they make. Often they are based on their own tests that have never been independently verified.

Something to consider: I have used Amsoil engine flush in many different vehicles with excellent results. It breaks up and removes sludge and other deposits from the crankcase. After engine flush, the motor is as clean as it's going to be. At that point, the new oil you dump in will be able to perform it's functions far more effectively.

Moving to a higher viscosity oil can quiet a knock, depending on the situation. If you currently use 10W30, switch to 10W40.

[Speed Dragon]

I have used it, it does restore compression and it never caused me any problems on a 200k+ mile engine. I doubt it will stop a knock though.

What kind of knock? Like a real slight knock, goes away after 3-5 minutes? The Diplomat has a wrist pin knock and that's what it sounds like. Hasn't ever gotten worse in 20k miles.

[tm500016]

the nock is loud for about 5-10 min then it gose away. im just looking for away to make the engine run and sound better.

[Speed Dragon]

I dunno, I think you probably need to rebuild/replace the engine. No additive is going to cure a bad knock.

[bherder]

Just to play 'Devil's Advocate' here..... :angle:

Personally, I've never used that 'Restore' stuff, but I know a few guys who have... (Really high-milage engines) and they were not at all displeased with it. They claim, that it did bring the compression up (worn rings) which made the engine run better/use less oil.
If you've got a rod-knock, I doubt it will do any good ... Maybe the 'knock' you hear is a sticky valve lifter that finally warms up and pumps up? That would be more of a 'tap' than a 'knock' though...
I do know that the stuff is pretty 'pricey' and they say you should add a fresh can of it at every oil change...
I look at it this way ... Yeah, it may buy you some time, but if the engine is that far gone, time for a new/rebuilt/remanufactured engine anyway.

Oil additives on a worn engine are not always a bad thing. I had a 73' Pinto wagon once (2 liter engine) that if only engine oil was used, it would burn a quart in 3-400 miles. I used to use 'McKay Engine Treatment' in it (Kinda' like STP ... Probably the same stuff) and could go between oil changes without adding any oil. Believe it or not, but I got 400,000 miles out of the engine before I wrecked the car.

So in a good/new/fresh engine, I would never add any 'goop' to it, but a worn out engine? What have you got to lose? ;)

[manimal]

The ONLY additive I would put in todays conventional oils is Zinc. Most companys have removed it because of the EPA standards. Valvoline VR1 still has zinc in it though. JMO
-Lance

[birddog432]

If you want to buy a little time you can use lucas oil stabilizer it helps with oil consumption and its not gooing to replace lost bearing but it will stabilize the oil giving you some cushion between surfaces

[DODGEN1]

when i used it i think it spun a rod bearing.

[birddog432]

dude that is one bitchin' ride bro

[beatersdigest]

You might consider some Amsoil 10W-40. It has high levels of Zinc and it protects better than ANY other 10W-40. (You can check the motor oil bible on that one). I cured a jeep straight 6 knock with it at 190K. I put in some engine flush, idled 20 min, drained it out with the old oil, and put in the new oil and filter. Practically good as new.

It now has 235K and still has good compression. I am a biased dealer but it does do its job. Have a look:

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx

[o2man98]

Think of it this way. If the oil needed these "additives" they would have been added at the time of blending. Please do not add stuff to your oil.

[dolfans]

does engine flush really work and it does not hurt the motor at all?what do you do add when low on oil and let it run/drive it and then change oil?i have never used it and i dont think my father did

[o2man98]

does engine flush really work and it does not hurt the motor at all?what do you do add when low on oil and let it run/drive it and then change oil?i have never used it and i dont think my father did

The engine flushes do work and will not harm an engine if directions are followed. I can only speak for the Amsoil flush but it is very simple.

1. Change your oil filter with a new cheap filter for the flush period. The oil removed in the old filter will be made up when you add the flush.

2. Add the flush to the current oil with new filter.

3. Idle for 15-20 minutes. Do not drive.

4. Drain oil with flush in it.

5. Add oil and change to your new filter.

My general belief is if you know your engine, have maintained properly and have low miles a flush is not needed.

Here is the flush. https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aef.aspx?zo=1132530

[tm500016]

i have a motor flush made by Gunk. has anyone used it before. where do you buy amsoil Oreilly auto parts dont sell it anymore

[o2man98]

i have a motor flush made by Gunk. has anyone used it before. where do you buy amsoil Oreilly auto parts dont sell it anymore

There are few retail locations depending on your location but I do ship it to forum members at my dealer cost. Just let me know what you need and your location and I will work it up for you.

[bherder]

This is 'Old School', but I've always used a qt of ATF as 'engine flush' whenever I've done that. I've also used the 'Gunk' engine flush.
I suppose that either one works, never had a problem with either....

So far as Amsoil, none of the local auto parts stores around here (But I live in the middle of NOwhere) carry it, BUT ... the loacal ACE Hardware store does though.
It's on the pricey side... $8.-somthing a quart...

[iviper123]

is the oil flush stuff compatable with diesels??

[bookworm]

Look fellas, the guy has a 24 year old engine with 160,000 miles onit. Enough witht the "well,if you maintain it correctly you'll never need additives" crap. The damage has already been done. The engine is knocking. what harm can additives possibly do ?
I personally have had good luck with Lucas, which is a viscosity "improver", like what we used to call "motor honey". It's basically a long-chain polymer that thickens the oil and provides better "cushion" for the bearings, particularly in a worn engine. I use it in my Freightliner with 875,000 miles on it, and it runs noticably quieter.
Wat he has here is a worn engine. I don't have a dog in this fight, and I ain't a snake-oil dealer either. If he wants to try the additives, it ain't gonna hurt a thing and it may help temporarily.

[DiverDwnPowrRam]

True.......just at this point if it is that bad sounding i would pull the engine and R&R it. maybe it is a money thing and the original poster wants to get by for now, I have never seen ANYTHING good come from motor flushes...ever. If they do manage to loosen sludge it seems it always hangs in the bottom of the pan and constricts the oil pickup after that or in almost 100% of the case...it morphs the rubber gaskets and the next you have a badly leaking engine. When i was serious and hanging around race cars, I remember an old timer and he swore by two things..straining your oil and using STP oil treatment with each oil change. just my thoughts...but "snake oil" he he he I like that one, made me laugh.

[charlie1935]

[QUOTE=bherder;2679896]This is 'Old School', but I've always used a qt of ATF as 'engine flush' whenever I've done that. I've also used the 'Gunk' engine flush.
I suppose that either one works, never had a problem with either...

.
My Dad used to use kerosene with one quart of oil. That was before oil filters were standard on all cars. He also used Drano drain cleaner to clean the radiator.
That is old school bherder.;):gr_patrio

[bherder]

Ya mean you're not going to tell us how you used to use goose-grease to lube the buggy wheels?? :D :D :D

[DiverDwnPowrRam]

he he he

[tm500016]

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[tm500016]

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[tm500016]

can i use synthetic oil or semi syn. or will i have problems(leaks)

[charlie1935]

Ya mean you're not going to tell us how you used to use goose-grease to lube the buggy wheels?? :D :D :D

No goose grease, lard from hog butchering time. :D:gr_patrio

[bherder]

Synth oil will not cause you any problems (In fact, you'll be better off) .. IF....
You are not running an engine with any leaks or oil burning issues. Only because it can get pretty expensive, if you're leaking/burning oil.
I've got a 95' B2500 van (318) with about 80,000 miles (Towing miles) that I've owned since new and that I've run on Mobil1 since the first oil change, and the engine runs flawlessly... I run the same in my son's Caravan (170,000 miles) which also uses no oil, but has a slight leak on one valve cover, and that engine (3.3) is as smooth as smooth can be and he gets 28 mpg highway (NOT bad!!)