I like my truck lowered but I also want some great cornering ability. So what is the best performance suspension setup out there? Does anyone make any Ram specific parts? I know you can buy the drop spindles, A-arms, and stuf but what about a new coil-IFS setup or something different for the rear? Any ideas?
RAM MAN
04-19-2004, 07:43 AM
Bell Tech used to make a rear anti sway bar for lowered trucks ... havent checked with the lately
paratrooper
04-20-2004, 04:32 PM
I've seen all of the different companies that make front and rear sway bars for our trucks but I'm thinking about some real performance stuff. Do you think that anyone has tried to graft Viper suspension onto a Ram? If Corvette IFS can be put on older trucks then how about our's? That would be something, wouldn't it?
RAM MAN
04-21-2004, 09:26 AM
that would be one heck of a project ...
not going for bags ?
I notice that most quick handling cars are lower to the ground - Vipers, Corvettes, old Cobras, NASCAR etc
so there must be something to that (less travel, quicker response)
I dont know if you could find a custom drag shocks or coil overs that would fit or not
Might want to do a search for NAS TRUCKs and see if anyone has specific info on the kind of suspension they run ... might give you some ideas
I have the MOPAR Chassis book from the parts performance series, but it doesnt cover trucks ...
Not too much specifically on this kind of the in the MOPAR STREET TRUCK book either
good luck
RAM MAN
04-28-2004, 03:54 PM
this may be more info than you want to know, but - here are some race truck specifics:
SETUP INSTRUCTIONS FOR A SPEED TRUCK CHASSIS
The greatest determining factor to your racing success will be your commitment and attention to detail. These guidelines are established from extensive testing and track experience, so that you may benefit from purchasing a SPEED TRUCK Chassis. Although every race setup must be tailored to suit the driver's style, the basic principles of its design should be followed. Partial setups from different sources or "monkey see, monkey do" tactics and gadgets will defeat the advantage of buying a professionally built chassis. Remember, a good performing car is the product of a balanced set-up package. Knowing which front springs the hot dog is running does not do you any good unless you know the complete setup and have a similar driving style.
ORDER OF SET-UP:
Set tire pressure.
Square the rear suspension.
Set lead ballasts in vehicle to achieve 55.0% left side weight 49.0% rear weight max. at this time with driver.
Set ride heights (w/out driver).
Set cross weight (w/ driver).
Set caster (w/out driver).
Set camber (w/out driver).
Re-check caster (w/out driver).
Set toe (w/out driver).
Load front sway bar (w/ driver).
SQUARING THE REAR SUSPENSION:
Step A:
Have the frame level side to side and front to rear on jack stands. Disconnect at least one end of both rear coilovers. Place a 4-1/2" spacer between the axle tube and frame rail on each side. Allow for the thickness of the panhard bracket when making your spacers. Measuring from rear frame X-member to front of axle housing at 31 1/2 inches.
Step B:
To center rear end from side to side measure from inside brake rotor to outer frame rail, should be the same from side to side, use panhard bar to center.
ALIGNMENT:
Front End Tow – The front tires should be towed out 1/8" 1/4" on tracks up to 1/2 mile. Larger tracks should have as little as the driver can stand.
Rear Lead – The rear end should initially be set straight. Leading the right will tighten the chassis exiting the corner, however this will also tend to loosen the chassis entering. Leading the left rear will have the opposite affect.
Bump Steer – Bump steer should be checked anytime a new spindle is installed or if the caster is changed. The right side should bump out at 3" of up travel from ride height, .030 to .060 on most available bump steer gages with a 14" tow plate. The left side should bump in at 2" of down travel to match the amount bumped out on the right. The actual bump checked at 28" (actual tire diameter) will be double.
ADJUSTING THE WEDGE OR CROSS WEIGHT:
Step 1:
Once that the chassis is set at all the correct heights and is level side to side, you should weigh the truck to determine the wedge (the percentage of weight that rests upon the left rear and right front tire). Wedge is checked with the driver in the truck.
Step 2:
Wedge adjustments should be done evenly as not to upset the ride height. Example, adding wedge: +1 turn RF, +1 turn LR, -1 turn RR, -1 turn LF. This should be done until the desired percentage is achieved. If all four springs had identical rates then the chassis would maintain the same ride height when adjusted in this manner. Because the rates vary, uneven adjustments will be necessary to compensate as you get closer to the exact diagonal percentage and ride height that you desire. The optimum wedge will vary between 50-51%. The correct wedge for your car will be determined by the front to rear spring relationship (roll couple) that you choose. Similar handling changes can be made by changing one or the other. It is futile to try to change both wedge and roll couple at the same time.
Step 3:
Recheck the ride height as it may have been effected by the wedge adjustments. The following is a baseline setup for a banked left turn track such as Irwindale Speedway.
