how do you remove center bolt in crank pulley?

[Megunticook]

OK, I feel like a complete dolt, but I've never done this before and I'm scratching my head.

How do you hold the crank pulley still while you crack loose the big center bolt?

Pardon my ignorance, I'm sure this is very basic...

[Kermit_802]

I am thinking that the answer to your question is, use an impact gun to get the bolt out. if you dont have anough room for all of that then you might want to leave the serpentine belt on all of the pulleys and try it that way. i have even heard of people gettign an old serpentine belt and cutting it to the exact length of the crank pulley and using a large oil filter wrench used for a tractor trailer and sliding it over the belt after you wrap it around the pulley.

[1972-D100]

There is a few ways you can get it out, besides the all mighty impact! You can use an old "V" belt, since I don't think your '73 has a serpentine belt, put it in the grove on the pulley and from the bottom of the truck put a piece of pipe or something simular between the belt and pulley, start twisting the pipe until the belt is really tight, then use the pipe to hold on to the pulley and keep it from spinning.

The other way need another person to use a large flat head screw driver on the teeth of the flywheel to prevent the engine from turning.

Hope you can get it off using one of the suggestions...

[67coronet]

Heres a dumb thing I have done. I have put a socket and breaker bar on the bolt, then with the coil unplugged I bumped the starter over a bump at a time. It worked like a champ! Its a very redneck thing to do for me being a Yankee! Maybe SC is wearing off on me.

[Megunticook]

Heres a dumb thing I have done. I have put a socket and breaker bar on the bolt, then with the coil unplugged I bumped the starter over a bump at a time. It worked like a champ! Its a very redneck thing to do for me being a Yankee! Maybe SC is wearing off on me.
OK, sometimes redneck is highly effective!

Just out of curiosity, what size bolt is in yours? I was expecting 3/4", that's what the Fisher part is made to fit (says its for '72-'8_ Dodge V-8), but the head on that capscrew seems to take a 1-1/4" socket, which would mean that the shank is 7/8" instead of 3/4, right? I hope I'm wrong about that...

[1972-D100]

Heres a dumb thing I have done. I have put a socket and breaker bar on the bolt, then with the coil unplugged I bumped the starter over a bump at a time. It worked like a champ! Its a very redneck thing to do for me being a Yankee! Maybe SC is wearing off on me.

Been there done that a few times, but the last time I did it, it was on a lowered Blazer, the socket sliped and through the rachet into the radiator, made a little bit of a leak issue...I didn't use the ground to hold the rachet in place, that was my downfall, I used a long handle screw driver that I jammed in between one of the brackets....I don't do it like that anymore!

[fins2fuselage]

OK, sometimes redneck is highly effective!

Just out of curiosity, what size bolt is in yours? I was expecting 3/4", that's what the Fisher part is made to fit (says its for '72-'8_ Dodge V-8), but the head on that capscrew seems to take a 1-1/4" socket, which would mean that the shank is 7/8" instead of 3/4, right? I hope I'm wrong about that...

M-cook,

Yes, the head of the bolt is 1 1/4" on all of them. I never really measured the threaded girth of the bolt, so I can't tell you what the diameter is.

An impact wrench is indeed the easiest/best way to remove the crank bolt. Here is another way to get that booger loose:

-- Remove all of the pulley bolts.

-- Install a 3-bolt harmonic balance puller (whether or not you actually want to remove it -- but if you are taking the bolt loose, I suspect that you do).

-- Place a crowbar between two of the puller bolts (but not across the center), get it braced against something which is "in the way" when the pulley is rotated CCW and, with the center puller screw backed-out, position your 1 1/4" socket and breaker bar so as to provide maximum CCW travel with the three puller bolts "in the way" and heave-ho. You may also need an extension on the breaker bar, 'cause those crank bolts can be tight! I recommend re-installation with anti-seize.

What sort of repair are you into, if I may ask?

Jeff

[1972-D100]

I think he is in the middle of changing out his plow pump configuration...

[Megunticook]

Thanks for the good suggestions.

I actually realized there's a pretty simple way to do it with a scrap of 2x4--on one end, just drill a center hole large enough for the 1 1/4" socket and then three 5/16 holes spaced to match every other bolt on the pulley around the center.

Then remove every other 5/16" bolt from the pulley, slide longer bolts through the holes in the wood, and fasten the block the the pulley. Then, if the 2x4 is long enough, it will hit ground when you rotate the big center bolt with a socket and breaker bar, and at that point it should hold the pulley stationary while you unthread the bolt--seems pretty safe, no way to bend the pulley or break anything (except the wood, I suppose!).

So why am I even doing this, you ask? Well, I'm trying to install a special "drive sheave" from Fisher that mounts on the crank pulley, effectively making a third, outer pulley to run the plow pump. Shop that installed my plow a few years ago set it up to run off the water pump, which I've learned will rotate the plow pump at higher rpm's than it was designed for and wear out the bearings.

The "drive sheave" is part #24 in this diagram:
http://edgeis.com/graphics/projects/truck/belts/belt-drive-hydraulic-diagra.gif

[Megunticook]

Me and my bright ideas...the 2x4 split on the first heave-ho. It still held the pulley still, though, although it was flexing some (the wood, that is!). I was hauling on my 16" breaker bar with all my might and couldn't get it to crack even a little. I hope this isn't one of those "three and a half hours of effort and frustration to get one bolt loose" tasks.

By the way, Jeff, you mentioned anti-seize on re-installation...I use that stuff all the time, but I noticed the installation instructions from Fisher explicitly say to use thread locking compound on the threads and torque to a pretty high value (can't recall off the top of my head). I gather that's because there have been cases where these bolts work loose over time, in which case anti-seize might not be the best idea.

I don't see anything in the Dodge FSM about this...

[1972-D100]

Me and my bright ideas...the 2x4 split on the first heave-ho. It still held the pulley still, though, although it was flexing some (the wood, that is!). I was hauling on my 16" breaker bar with all my might and couldn't get it to crack even a little. I hope this isn't one of those "three and a half hours of effort and frustration to get one bolt loose" tasks.

By the way, Jeff, you mentioned anti-seize on re-installation...I use that stuff all the time, but I noticed the installation instructions from Fisher explicitly say to use thread locking compound on the threads and torque to a pretty high value (can't recall off the top of my head). I gather that's because there have been cases where these bolts work loose over time, in which case anti-seize might not be the best idea.

I don't see anything in the Dodge FSM about this...

They say to use thread lock because the bolt can typically work itself out due to the rotation of the crank, what you can do is use loctite on the last 5-6 threads of the bolt towards the head, that way it seals the threads and prevents moisture from getting into the threads causing a rust stuck bolt, which it sounds like you have now. You can try heating the head up with a torch or using a penetrating spray to help get it out. I can't remember on the mopar motors, is the crank bolt left handed threads?

[Speed Dragon]

I don't remember what trans you have, but if it's a 4-spd, just stick it in gear ;)

[B-300]

The bolt should be 7/8" right-hand thread, 1-1/4" head.
A plate of metal is much stronger than a 2x4... Wood doesn't have much tensile strength cross-grain.
If it's rusted try drilling a hole thru the bolt so you can get penetrating oil to the other end of the threads.

[bherder]

48" DEEP-JAW pipe wrench on the balancer works every time.

[fins2fuselage]

Me and my bright ideas...the 2x4 split on the first heave-ho. It still held the pulley still, though, although it was flexing some (the wood, that is!). I was hauling on my 16" breaker bar with all my might and couldn't get it to crack even a little. I hope this isn't one of those "three and a half hours of effort and frustration to get one bolt loose" tasks.

By the way, Jeff, you mentioned anti-seize on re-installation...I use that stuff all the time, but I noticed the installation instructions from Fisher explicitly say to use thread locking compound on the threads and torque to a pretty high value (can't recall off the top of my head). I gather that's because there have been cases where these bolts work loose over time, in which case anti-seize might not be the best idea.

I don't see anything in the Dodge FSM about this...

M-cook,

Now that I know what you are attempting, definitely use some Loctite as that pulley/balancer is going to be bearing quite an additonal load. I would suggest bead- or sand-blasting the threads first, however, because rust + Loctite = your worst nightmare.

As '72D-100 suggests, go ahead and heat it -- just don't get it glowing red hot. Heating will melt any Loctite that may be in the threads now, but I don't know how much it will do for the rust. Use some oil on it after you heat it up because the heat may help to wick the lube down into the threads.

Jeff

[fins2fuselage]

48" DEEP-JAW pipe wrench on the balancer works every time.

Bherder,

I like my idea better. What you are suggesting could wipe out the balancer's elastic ring. Best to get a hold of it nearer to the center.

Jeff

[fins2fuselage]

I don't remember what trans you have, but if it's a 4-spd, just stick it in gear ;)

Hey, Speed -- good suggestion, unless the whole truck starts to move.

Where you been lately?

Jeff

[Speed Dragon]

Hey, Speed -- good suggestion, unless the whole truck starts to move.

Where you been lately?

Jeff

Chock the wheels ;)

I been around, just not posting much lately, don't really have much time these days usually. I get on couple times a week or so, glance through the threads. Haven't done much with my trucks, too busy working on other peoples' cars :D I'm finishing up rebuild a bottom end for a Shelby Daytona right now, and as soon as that's done, I got a Conquest TSI lined up to come in. Plus working at the farm still, plus doing some extra mechanical work at my friend's shop :crazy:

[bherder]

Bherder,

I like my idea better. What you are suggesting could wipe out the balancer's elastic ring. Best to get a hold of it nearer to the center.

Jeff

That was the days before I had an impact.... ;)

[Megunticook]

I don't remember what trans you have, but if it's a 4-spd, just stick it in gear ;)
Tried that, no dice. Scratching my head a bit over that one, but the crank moves when it's in gear...

[B-300]

1) This bolt will be tight... 135ft-lbs. according to Chilton Manual
2) To much heat and the elastic band in the balancer along with the oil seal will be destroyed... Timing cover has to be removed to change the oil seal.
3) Did you use high gear?
4) A flame wrench (cutting torch) could be used to cut the bolt head off.
5) Before impacts. A plate of steel about 1/4"x 4" x 2feet with a hole for the bolt/socket to stick thru and 6 bolt hole drilled for the balancer. (Use the pulley as a template)
6) Has the suggested "redneck" method been tried?... (Post#4)

[charlie1935]

Put it in high gear.:gr_patrio

[Speed Dragon]

Park brake work?

[Megunticook]

1) This bolt will be tight... 135ft-lbs. according to Chilton Manual
2) To much heat and the elastic band in the balancer along with the oil seal will be destroyed... Timing cover has to be removed to change the oil seal.
3) Did you use high gear?
4) A flame wrench (cutting torch) could be used to cut the bolt head off.
5) Before impacts. A plate of steel about 1/4"x 4" x 2feet with a hole for the bolt/socket to stick thru and 6 bolt hole drilled for the balancer. (Use the pulley as a template)
6) Has the suggested "redneck" method been tried?... (Post#4)
I've avoided the potentially destructive methods so far (I have a long tradition of breaking stuff I'm working on through ignorance and/or haste...)

The tranny was engaged in 1st and reverse, crank seemed to turn in either case? Why is that? I thought when the transmission is in gear that the crank is engaged with the driveline. And why would 4th gear work better? I'll give it a try when I get home (away for the weekend).

I emailed that high-perf. mopar shop in S. Carolina that Jeff mentioned in another post (Bouchillon)--they sell pulleys, harmonic balancers, etc. Their suggestions included impact wrench, strap wrench on harmonic balancer, and taking the cover off to engage the flywheel (it wasn't clear how that would be done).

I'll keep trying--maybe I could take it someplace that has an impact wrench and have them remove it. But I'd still need to properly torque the new bolt on, right?

[Megunticook]

Put it in high gear.:gr_patrioJust curious--why would this matter? I'll definitely try it.

[Megunticook]

Park brake work?Yes, just replaced rear brakes last spring and reconditioned my park brake--it's always engaged when the truck is parked.

[Speed Dragon]

Well, you shouldn't be able to turn the engine over if it's in gear and the park brake is holding properly. Not more than a 1/8-1/4 turn, anyway. And 4th works better because it's harder to move the truck in 4th than 1st ( which is basically what's trying happen when you turn the bolt). I've never had any trouble breaking them loose as long as the crank was kept from turning. You may have to get someone to go underneath and jam the flywheel w/ a big screwdriver while you break the bolt loose.

[fins2fuselage]

You may have to get someone to go underneath and jam the flywheel w/ a big screwdriver while you break the bolt loose.

M-cook,

Speed is right, but I would rather try to jam it with a big ol' wrench IF you can find some handy bolt which avails itself to the task. I have jammed engines using the torque converter bolts on Mopar automatics before; in fact, you can even turn the engine over by putting a wrench on 'em!

But then, as I have said before, I am not that familiar with the four-speed set-ups.

Jeff

[bherder]

A bit off the subject here, but Ed, I would highly advise you invest in a small air compressor and an impact gun, being as you're turning into 'Mr. Mechanic'
;)

It makes life soooo much more easy...

The tranny was engaged in 1st and reverse, crank seemed to turn in either case? Why is that?

Clutch slipping is my guess....

I emailed that high-perf. mopar shop in S. Carolina that Jeff mentioned in another post (Bouchillon)--they sell pulleys, harmonic balancers, etc. Their suggestions included impact wrench, strap wrench on harmonic balancer, and taking the cover off to engage the flywheel (it wasn't clear how that would be done).

Although fins doesn't really like my idea, and YES, you do take a chance of wrecking the harmonic balancer, there really isn't much of a difference between what the 'pros' said (strap wrench) or a pipe wrench. Pipe wrench will get a much better grip. I've actually done that a few times back in the Jurrasic Period, and was lucky enough not to wreck anything.
This may be one of those times where you get everything locked up a solid as possible, with a 3/4" breaker bar and cheater... And pray the Mopar Gods are smiling on you... :D

[fins2fuselage]

A bit off the subject here, but Ed, I would highly advise you invest in a small air compressor and an impact gun, being as you're turning into 'Mr. Mechanic'
;)

It makes life soooo much more easy...

What Bherder said!

Although fins doesn't really like my idea, and YES, you do take a chance of wrecking the harmonic balancer, there really isn't much of a difference between what the 'pros' said (strap wrench) or a pipe wrench. Pipe wrench will get a much better grip. I've actually done that a few times back in the Jurrasic Period, and was lucky enough not to wreck anything.
This may be one of those times where you get everything locked up a solid as possible, with a 3/4" breaker bar and cheater... And pray the Mopar Gods are smiling on you... :D

I actually thought about that when I read the post about using a strap wrench, but I remained mute since I guess that M-cook has to experience the joy of changing a messed-up balancer sometime. ;)

Jeff

[Megunticook]

Well, you shouldn't be able to turn the engine over if it's in gear and the park brake is holding properly. Not more than a 1/8-1/4 turn, anyway. And 4th works better because it's harder to move the truck in 4th than 1st.
Hmmm...maybe I stopped short of that 1/8-1/4 turn. I'll put it in fourth gear and see what happens.

[Megunticook]

M-cook,

Speed is right, but I would rather try to jam it with a big ol' wrench IF you can find some handy bolt which avails itself to the task.
Is there something wrong with the Speed method? Why would you prefer jamming something up...only thing I can think of on my truck is having somebody somehow engage the flywheel while I'm cracking the bolt, but I don't have an extra set of hands around here.

[Megunticook]

A bit off the subject here, but Ed, I would highly advise you invest in a small air compressor and an impact gun, being as you're turning into 'Mr. Mechanic'
;)
Not off the subject at all, I was thinking about that. Would be mighty handy. But you still would need to accurately torque this bolt down with a torque wrench, right? So whether or not I have an impact wrench, I still need to resolve this issue?


This may be one of those times where you get everything locked up a solid as possible, with a 3/4" breaker bar and cheater... And pray the Mopar Gods are smiling on you... :D
All I have is a 1/2" socket and 16" breaker bar from the old Snap-On set I inherited from my grandfather. And Kroil. The socket is a 12-point, I prefer 6 to avoid rounding hex corners but not sure it's worth spending $25 on a new Snap-on socket just for this one bolt (I don't think I've EVER used the 1 1/4" socket before, it's the biggest one in the set).

I'll give this a shot today when I get a minute and report back.

[fins2fuselage]

Is there something wrong with the Speed method? Why would you prefer jamming something up...only thing I can think of on my truck is having somebody somehow engage the flywheel while I'm cracking the bolt, but I don't have an extra set of hands around here.


M-cook,

All we mean by "jamming" is basically "holding the flywheel still while you break the crank bolt loose". It sounds worse than it really is.

I prefer using a wrench placed on a bolt on the flywheel (if one avails itself) because when you then turn the engine over with the crank bolt, it will (hopefully) catch positively against the bellhousing without slipping out of place. If you use a bar instead, it may slip as you rotate the engine.

But listen to Bherder and buy yourself an impact wrench instead -- you will wonder how you ever survived without one!

Jeff

[1972-D100]

Do you have a local auto parts store that "rents" tools out, like Autozone? If so you can get a torque wrench from them to put it all together.

[Megunticook]

All we mean by "jamming" is basically "holding the flywheel still while you break the crank bolt loose". It sounds worse than it really is.

I prefer using a wrench placed on a bolt on the flywheel (if one avails itself) because when you then turn the engine over with the crank bolt, it will (hopefully) catch positively against the bellhousing without slipping out of place. If you use a bar instead, it may slip as you rotate the engine.

But listen to Bherder and buy yourself an impact wrench instead -- you will wonder how you ever survived without one!

Gotchya--I actually took a turn with it in 4th gear this morning, was able to max out my strength on the breaker bar and the bolt wouldn't budge. Probably should try jamming the flywheel next, as there was still some movement and "flex."

I'll continue the daily Kroil soakings.

Would a quality electric impact wrench do the job? I was thinking of picking up one of these:

http://www.dewalt.com//ProductImages/PC_Graphics/PHOTOS/DEWALT/TOOLS/MEDIUM/2/DW292_1.gif
(http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=8660
Says it can do 345 ft./lbs.--I realize the air-powered ones go a lot higher than that, but I would think 300+ ft./lbs. of torque would crack loose most anything...

I agree a tool like this would pay for itself pretty quickly in terms of time saved...

You know how I mentioned I have a long tradition of breaking stuff? Well, I noticed a little fresh coolant on one bottom corner of the radiator, and sure enough it looks like on one of my attempts to crack loose the nut where the socket slipped off the bolt head, I probably whacked one of the drain fittings in the radiator. It looks slightly askew, and the leak seems to be coming from the area where this copper fitting enters the radiator (not sure how it was sealed originally--looks like a bunch of dirty white stuff around it--I'll try and get a picture later). Very slow leak but it's definitely seeping out there.

So...the radiator is pretty rusted anyhow and I was thinking of changing it out next summer when I tear everything apart for the new radiator support, fenders, etc. Question is, can I do something to get by through the winter? I could really do without the hassle and expense of installing a new radiator right now, but on the other hand I don't want to be stupid about it and end up with a coolant leak some dark stormy night when I'm in the middle of plowing 16 inches of snow off the drive...

[Megunticook]

Do you have a local auto parts store that "rents" tools out, like Autozone? If so you can get a torque wrench from them to put it all together.
Got an Evercraft beam torque wrench years ago so I should be all set--although it only goes up to 75 ft./lbs. A higher-range one is on my wish list...any recommendations?

[1972-D100]

I have an older version of this one, I'm happy with it...:D

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944600000P

I think the dewalt would do it, but you do know that Dewalt is a glorified Black & Decker? I have had a bunch of Dewalt stuff, work and at home, burned up a bunch of motors in em under hard working conditions, but that was all cordless stuff all of the plug-in equipment has worked without issues....

As for the the coolant link, you can get some this stuff, it works rather well, used in my old CJ-7 Jeep many of times (branches and littles stones coming from vehicles in front of me caused a bunch of pin holes in rad, this stuff fixed it everytime...:crazy:

http://www.barsproducts.com/1108.htm

[Speed Dragon]

Got an Evercraft beam torque wrench years ago so I should be all set--although it only goes up to 75 ft./lbs. A higher-range one is on my wish list...any recommendations?

I use a cheap AA store torque wrench, haven't had any problems yet. Main thing is to remember to always zero it before storing. Leaving it set can damage it.

If it's that tough to get out, you really need to get a long breaker bar or an air gun. I have taken them out w/ a regular 1/2" drive hand ratchet, so either yours has been really wound in there, or I'm He-Man :D

[Megunticook]

If it's that tough to get out, you really need to get a long breaker bar or an air gun. I have taken them out w/ a regular 1/2" drive hand ratchet, so either yours has been really wound in there, or I'm He-Man :D
I'll just call you "Ah-nuld."

My 15" breaker won't budge it...I'll go buy a piece of 2-foot pipe to slip over the handle and try that. Talked to a guy down at the fire dept. last night, pro GM mechanic, says he's come in from the top before with a really long breaker. We had an interesting discussion about impact wrenches and cracking loose tough nuts/bolts...he says you can apply more torque by hand with a long breaker than an impact wrench.

I realized that the DeWalt I was thinking of ordering won't fit in there without taking out the radiator, there's only about 8 inches of space. I may get it anyway, though, would make a lot of jobs much faster I bet.

[Speed Dragon]

We had an interesting discussion about impact wrenches and cracking loose tough nuts/bolts...he says you can apply more torque by hand with a long breaker than an impact wrench.

This is true, I've had to crack bolts loose before by hand that even an IR Titanium Series impact wouldn't budge.

[bherder]

I actually thought about that when I read the post about using a strap wrench, but I remained mute since I guess that M-cook has to experience the joy of changing a messed-up balancer sometime.

Hey, Ed's got to earn his 'stripes' sooner or later, right? Can't really call yourself a mechanic until you're a full-fledged member of the 'bloody knuckles/broken parts club' .. :D

Ed, the electric stuff is good, but in the long run, you're better off with air tools. You can then buy a variety of tools and only have to buy the 'power source' once.

For your rad leak, are you any good at sweat-soldering? Gotta be very careful that you don't undo the seams on the tank or the core though...
I've fixed minor stuff on rads with JB Weld before. Surface has got to be cleaner than clean and drier than dry though...

[charlie1935]

I've been gone is why I didn't answer about high gear. High is direct through the tranny and doesn't give you the leverage to turn the wheels like 1st or reverse will.:gr_patrio

[Megunticook]

Cracked her loose today with a 3' pipe slipped over my breaker bar, had to come in from the top which was tricky but got it on the third try. Took some real effort.

No corrosion in the threads--I guess it was just torqued down awful tight.

So, 2+ hours and a leaking radiator all for one bolt...not one of my better performances. Hopefully a little JB Weld will fix the leak until next summer when I replace the rad. Still, draining and refilling will be a bit of a pain, but a good excuse to finally get that mechanical temperature gauge installed that's been sitting on my parts shelf for the past year.

BTW, the crank bolt is a 3/4-16 (fine thread) with an enlarged hex cap on the head.

[1972-D100]

Glad to hear you got her off! The JB Weld should hold up until you can change out rad, as long as you can get it to stop seeping long enough to get the area super clean and get the stuff on there, otherwise it will just keep on a leakin. You need to use something like a brake clean or rubbing alcohol to get the residual antifreeze off of the area in order to get the JB Weld to seal good.

[fins2fuselage]

Cracked her loose today with a 3' pipe slipped over my breaker bar, had to come in from the top which was tricky but got it on the third try. Took some real effort.

No corrosion in the threads--I guess it was just torqued down awful tight.

So, 2+ hours and a leaking radiator all for one bolt...not one of my better performances. Hopefully a little JB Weld will fix the leak until next summer when I replace the rad. Still, draining and refilling will be a bit of a pain, but a good excuse to finally get that mechanical temperature gauge installed that's been sitting on my parts shelf for the past year.

BTW, the crank bolt is a 3/4-16 (fine thread) with an enlarged hex cap on the head.

M-cook,

Congrats on the "success". Had I know you were trying to bust it loose with the radiator in there, I would have advised you not to do so; it would have been much easier to break loose without the radiator in the way -- and a lot less risky.

How big is the hole in the rad? if it is not a breach involving several tubes and no large "chunks" are ripped out of them, try some Bar's Leaks or AlumaSeal. It has worked more often than not for me.

When you replace your rad next summer, try a new Heatbuster from Proliance Radiators. This is what I have in my '72 with 318, and the only problem it has given me in 8 - 10 years is that the support brackets came "unsoldered" a couple of times. Of course, all radiators are made in China or Mexico now, but at least the Proliance (formerly GoDan International, or GDI) is built on the North American continent.

And avoid Modine. I don't care how many people praise 'em -- I have NEVER had good luck with one in a Mopar! :(

Jeff

[Megunticook]

Glad to hear you got her off! The JB Weld should hold up until you can change out rad, as long as you can get it to stop seeping long enough to get the area super clean and get the stuff on there, otherwise it will just keep on a leakin. You need to use something like a brake clean or rubbing alcohol to get the residual antifreeze off of the area in order to get the JB Weld to seal good.
It's a very minor seep, but I probably need to drain the radiator and clean the area well as you say. "Oh, bother" as Pooh would say.

[Megunticook]

Had I know you were trying to bust it loose with the radiator in there, I would have advised you not to do so; it would have been much easier to break loose without the radiator in the way -- and a lot less risky.
Hindsight I guess. Well, to remove the rad. I'd have had to drain it anyway, so the only time I lose is the JB Weld operation, which shouldn't take long. If it was a radiator with years of life left on it, that'd be another thing, but this sucker was installed in '97 and the fins are pretty rotted.

How big is the hole in the rad? if it is not a breach involving several tubes and no large "chunks" are ripped out of them, try some Bar's Leaks or AlumaSeal.Hmmm, good to know, haven't heard of those products. I have some JB Weld in the shed already, I hear it works well in this application, so I'll give it a shot. Just needs to buy me 8 months or so of time.

When you replace your rad next summer, try a new Heatbuster from Proliance Radiators. This is what I have in my '72 with 318, and the only problem it has given me in 8 - 10 years is that the support brackets came "unsoldered" a couple of times. Of course, all radiators are made in China or Mexico now, but at least the Proliance (formerly GoDan International, or GDI) is built on the North American continent.
Thanks for the advice--I was actually looking at a Proliance (installed one of those in my wife's Subaru last fall, seemed decent quality). Rockauto has 'em for about $160--not too shabby for a new radiator. Know what you mean about how scarce "Made in USA" is becoming...I just bought a Standard Motor Products voltage regulator to have as a spare, apparently they very recently outsourced the manufacturing to China as it now says "made in China" on the box instead of "made in U.S.A." Standard Motor Products! Getting to where you can hardly buy a domestic part anymore.

[bherder]

If it was a radiator with years of life left on it, that'd be another thing, but this sucker was installed in '97 and the fins are pretty rotted.

Would it make you feel bad if I told I have the original (79') radiator still in my truck? ;)

I just bought a Standard Motor Products voltage regulator to have as a spare, apparently they very recently outsourced the manufacturing to China as it now says "made in China" on the box instead of "made in U.S.A." Standard Motor Products! Getting to where you can hardly buy a domestic part anymore.

Ya know, I've noticed something lately with Standard. It seems a lot of their stuff is now coming out with a 'letter' at the end... Like a 'CH500' vs. a 'CH500T' or something like that. And the part with the 'T' is a lot cheaper.
(Not to confuse with a 'CH500X' where the 'X' meant it was a 'Blue Streak' part, which is their 'primo' brand....)
I may be completely wrong on this, but I'm wondering if Standard now has 'Bargin Basement' (ie China) parts, along with their 'standard' parts and their top shelf Blue Streak parts?
Anybody in the auto parts biz, know anything about this?

[Megunticook]

The "T" in the product number probably stands for "True-Tech" which is their bargain line. And "Blue Streak" is the premium, as you say.

They don't have a Blue Streak voltage regulator (I checked their own catalog online), but I just bought one last year and it was made in usa. Most of the Standard stuff has been made in usa that I've bought, until now.

[76duster]

The way I have always don it was use a 3-6 lb hammer to break it loose. the sudden smack [with motor in compr turn,or resistance] they just need to loosen the can use a socket to remove.. maby I am just ooooold school????

[B-300]

The big hammer is so obvious I didn't mention it..... Load up the wrench and smack it with a glove on hand of push the wrench with a shoed foot to avoid the impact.
There I said it now.

[76duster]

I am sorry didn't mean to upset anyone by being obvious just the way that has worked for me since the late 60's thought it might help

[67coronet]

Oh and another hillbilly tidbit from your fellow Damn Yankee from SC. Put a raw egg in the radiator and it will seal a leak right up.

[bherder]

Oh and another hillbilly tidbit from your fellow Damn Yankee from SC. Put a raw egg in the radiator and it will seal a leak right up.

Hahaha! You ever wonder how somebody even dreamed these things up in the first place?

"Hmmmm .... Lesse' here ..... Tried stickin' a carrot in there... Nope, still leakin' ... That can o' SPAM and that tater' didn't work none well neither... Hmmmm ..... Son, run over ta the hen house and get yo daddy a couple of eggs..."

:thatfunny

[Speed Dragon]

Hey Meg, empty your PM box :)

[76duster]

76 coronet Do you cook your turkey on the engine also???

:thatfunny:gr_patrio:IDEA:

[charlie1935]

I've heard for years that black pepper would work as a temporary stop leak.
Never tried it. :gr_patrio

[fins2fuselage]

I've heard for years that black pepper would work as a temporary stop leak.
Never tried it. :gr_patrio

Mmmm, eggs and black pepper -- breakfast on wheels!

I'll bet grits would work too, but it would probably also stop up every tube in the rad while it was about it!

Jeff

[B-300]

For larger leaks like freeze plugs oatmeal works... My dad did it on his XK-150 Jaguar.
The freeze plugs are buried under the exhaust manifolds and were replaced on the week end.