I have some small dammage on my grille and have been looking for the last 3 years for a good replacement, but everything I find is in worse shape then mine. Do you guys know of a company that restores the old aluminum grilles? Here is a picture of the damage, sorry it is bad, I tried to zoom in on it on the computer so the quality went out the window...
1972-D100
10-02-2008, 10:05 AM
Is it bad to reply to your own thread???:huh:
Anyways I spent a while on the net last night and sent out a couple of e-mails to some restoration companies. I received a message back this morning... They quoted me a ball park price to have the grille fixed, reshaped and then anodized. Does a $1,000 sound high to you all?? I was thinking maybe around $600 or so my self. Well either way here is there site if you want to check it for your own MOPARS:
http://www.kingoftrim.com/
bherder
10-02-2008, 03:14 PM
Is this going to be a trailer'd show truck that you can eat off the intake manifold and expect to win 5 foot-tall throphies with? If so, spend the $$..
Or is it a daily-driver that you'll occasionally haul tree branches to the dump with? If that's the case, there'd be NO way I'd spend that kind of $$.
I know (BELIEVE ME, I know) that good grilles for our ol' Mopars are hard to find! I've got a NOS quad-headlight grille, that I paid too much for, that has been hanging on the wall of my shop for the last 3-4 years, because I'm terrified of destroying it (A LOT of deer trying to commit suicide around here..)
It's taken me about 3 years to finally find a good one at a wrecking yard. Cost me $20.00 (:D:D:D) ... That's what's on my rig right now. I KNOW if I put the nice one on, it'll be squashed flat in a week.
Anyway, the morale of the story is, if it's a daily-driver, I'd keep looking...
You can often find something on ebay for probably cheaper, or you can try
junkyarddog.com
1972-D100
10-02-2008, 03:32 PM
I would like for it to be a show truck someday, but not trailered, it is a DODGE truck I'll drive it there!:D I don't use it as a DD, I usually drive it to work on Fridays and a little bit on the weekend. I found an NOS this morning for 800 plus shipping, I think I would have to put it on the shop on the wall and only install it if I was going to a show or something. Check the picture thread at the top of the forums I posted some pics of her. For now I think I'll keep on looking, there is too many farm/ranches around here in Texas for me not to be able to find one in good shape with an owner that has no idea what it is worth. Maybe I'll luck out and find a real nice donor truck!
bherder
10-02-2008, 07:55 PM
I think I would have to put it on the shop on the wall and only install it if I was going to a show or something.
Heh heh heh..... Now you know what I mean....
I paid too much for mine to have Bambi turn it into a pretzel....
there is too many farm/ranches around here in Texas for me not to be able to find one in good shape with an owner that has no idea what it is worth.
AHH!! THERE YA GO!!
That is a major 'key' sometimes. It takes time and it takes patience.
But sooner or later you'll find someone who says... "Huh? You WANT that ol' hunk of junk?? Hell, I'll pay YOU to get it out of my back 40..."
This is the VERY cool thing about Dodges (Other than the fact they're Dodges) ... A lot of times, it's the thrill of the chase, and when you fiiiiiiiinally find that part... :rck::rck::rck:
fins2fuselage
10-02-2008, 08:19 PM
Is it bad to reply to your own thread???:huh:
Anyways I spent a while on the net last night and sent out a couple of e-mails to some restoration companies. I received a message back this morning... They quoted me a ball park price to have the grille fixed, reshaped and then anodized. Does a $1,000 sound high to you all?? I was thinking maybe around $600 or so my self. Well either way here is there site if you want to check it for your own MOPARS:
http://www.kingoftrim.com/
72-D100,
Good Lord, man, I'll sell you a whole '72 D-100 with a good grille for $1,500 -- and the rest of the truck is pretty good to boot!
Jeff
1972-D100
10-03-2008, 09:32 AM
Jeff,
I appreciate the offer, but for now I'm going to try and find just the parts (only need a few parts to restore the truck), I really don't have room at my shop for a donor truck. I guess I'll have to make room for one if it comes to it... I found a couple of good donors on craigslist though, averaging about what you are asking for yours. The main thing that I'm going to be doing to it as far as driveability is rebuilding the suspension, body mounts and changing out the heads on the motor (I have a burned valve on one side and I think there is either a bad head gasket on the other, coolant comes out of the last header bolt). It has 144K original miles and the suspension parts were only replaced on as needed basis, so I want to rebuild the whole thing and make it ride like new again.:D
As far as cosmetics go, I need to replace/refurbish both bumpers, repair front left fender (small dent behind the bumper), replace/refurbish the grille, Replace the door hinge bolts, repaint the truck, replace the instrument cluster cover (was young and dumb and cut it to install a CD player):bawl:replace the head liner, replace the glove box door, and recover the seat. Man it doesn't seem like much when you type it out like that!!!
Ron in North Texas
charlie1935
10-03-2008, 02:10 PM
Some of the exhaust manifold bolts go into the water jacket. If they are not coated with a sealant they some times leak coolant. :gr_patrio
Megunticook
10-03-2008, 02:21 PM
The main thing that I'm going to be doing to it as far as driveability is rebuilding the suspension
I just completely rebuilt my rear suspension (front will be next year hopefully). When it comes time to order springs, definitely take a close look at these guys--excellent spring manufacturer, will UPS them right to your door:
http://www.stengelbros.com/
Talk to Jack Stengel if you have any questions...
bherder
10-03-2008, 06:50 PM
Some of the exhaust manifold bolts go into the water jacket. If they are not coated with a sealant they some times leak coolant. :gr_patrio
Hey Jeff, Charlie is right. All SB (And I THINK ... BB's also) Mopars, the very front/rear exhaust manifold bolt-holes go into the water jacket. From the factory, Mopar put studs in these four holes. When you take them out (To install headers, for example) you leave yourself open a bit. Sometimes you get lucky, sometime ya don't.
I had a Duster once with a 340 in it. Installed headers and could NOT get one bolt to not leak coolant. I finally fixed it though... I got some of that aluminum tape you can buy at any hardware store. That stuff that's a few thousandths thick, that's 'sticky-back' ... Know what I mean? I put a wrap-and-a-half around the bolt... Was a bit of a prob getting it started... But after I got the bolt started and tightened up, NEVER had a prob with it afterwards. Yeah, it's Micky Mouse, but it worked :D
Anyway, I know you gotta pull one head, but with time/labor/ cost of a good Felpro-blue headgasket... Don't want to see you pull a head if ya don't HAVE to...;)
yogibare143
10-03-2008, 08:22 PM
Here is a link for a new Grille for $289. Need to strip paint off, but get a new Grille.
http://www.bradsnosmopar.com/nosinbomo72d.html
Mark
bherder
10-03-2008, 10:23 PM
Can't hardly beat that.....
1972-D100
10-06-2008, 09:01 AM
Here is a link for a new Grille for $289. Need to strip paint off, but get a new Grille.
http://www.bradsnosmopar.com/nosinbomo72d.html
Mark
I saw that one on there, but it is not the same grille, it is for a 73-75 I think. Brads NOS is the same place that said they have a NOS in my grille, but they wanted 850 for it and 200 for a used one that was beat up worse than mine. I guess I just have a rare grille. Also the only problem with buying a NOS that is painted is that you have to have it anodized after you strip the paint, if you don't you have to use polish on it 4-5 times a year to keep it looking new.
1972-D100
10-06-2008, 12:22 PM
Hey Jeff, Charlie is right. All SB (And I THINK ... BB's also) Mopars, the very front/rear exhaust manifold bolt-holes go into the water jacket. From the factory, Mopar put studs in these four holes. When you take them out (To install headers, for example) you leave yourself open a bit. Sometimes you get lucky, sometime ya don't.
I had a Duster once with a 340 in it. Installed headers and could NOT get one bolt to not leak coolant. I finally fixed it though... I got some of that aluminum tape you can buy at any hardware store. That stuff that's a few thousandths thick, that's 'sticky-back' ... Know what I mean? I put a wrap-and-a-half around the bolt... Was a bit of a prob getting it started... But after I got the bolt started and tightened up, NEVER had a prob with it afterwards. Yeah, it's Micky Mouse, but it worked :D
Anyway, I know you gotta pull one head, but with time/labor/ cost of a good Felpro-blue headgasket... Don't want to see you pull a head if ya don't HAVE to...;)
I thought the Mopars did that, but wasn't sure. Grew up playing with sb Chevys, not mopars:(. It only does it on the one side, and the same side exhaust keeps getting more moisture in it than the other, it spits pretty good for the first 10 to 15 minutes or so! I guess the coolant could be going from the bolt hole down the exhaust gasket and into the headers that way, that would make for a lot cheaper fix.
I'm thinking about putting the aluminum heads from Edlebrock on eventually, but not sure if their worth the $$$! I can get just as good performance out of a cast iron set.
fins2fuselage
10-06-2008, 12:50 PM
I thought the Mopars did that, but wasn't sure. Grew up playing with sb Chevys, not mopars:(. It only does it on the one side, and the same side exhaust keeps getting more moisture in it than the other, it spits pretty good for the first 10 to 15 minutes or so! I guess the coolant could be going from the bolt hole down the exhaust gasket and into the headers that way, that would make for a lot cheaper fix.
I'm thinking about putting the aluminum heads from Edlebrock on eventually, but not sure if their worth the $$$! I can get just as good performance out of a cast iron set.
D-100,
Aluminum heads? And you think you have problems now? Whoo!
Here is the secret to stopping-up that coolant leak (provided you can get the offending stud out): chase the threads, buy a new stud and slather the cylinder head end of that bad boy with Loctite 518 (or Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker -- same stuff) before installing it. You will rpobably be removing the manifolds, so do this with all of them. Then hi-temp anti-seize the outer set of threads and install new Grade 8 nuts. This applies only to those end studs which go into the water jacket; anti-seize the entire length of the new Grade 8 bolts which you install into the blind holes.
You will probably thank yourself for doing it that way someday.
Jeff
1972-D100
10-06-2008, 02:23 PM
Thanks Jeff,
I'll try that on the back ones, but I don't have studs in mine. I took them out when I did the rebuild back in '97 and installed headers with regular header bolts. Should I use studs on the back two? I can't use the original one has the header flange is a lot thinner than the stock manifolds, but I'm sure I can find a grade 8 stud that would work.
I had to ask about the aluminum heads, I've used aluminum blocks with aluminum heads, but never put the heads on a cast iron block. I never had a problem with them though. You just have to use a good gasket and don't ever let it overheat! I think I'll stay with the stock heads though, well since all the numbers on the block match with the truck still. I want to make it show ready and mean all at the same time, but still trying to keep it as close to original as I can. If that make any sense at all!!!
Megunticook
10-06-2008, 02:48 PM
install new Grade 8 nuts...new Grade 8 bolts
Er...I don't mean to hijack this thread or anything, but are those nuts and bolts supposed to be grade 8? I replaced several (the ones I could get out--unfortunately not the two center ones on the drivers side, which are the ones I WANTED to get out!) recently and after reviewing the FSM carefully, looking at the old bolts, and thinking about, I decided to use stainless steel along with the high-temp. antiseize, so the darn things would never seize again. I figured the FSM didn't specify hardened bolts there because there isn't any real major load on those fasteners (just lots of expansion and contraction movement of the manifold). but maybe I got that wrong.
Please correct me if I'm out in left field and I'll replace those ss with grade 8.
p.s. I did take the trouble to buy new conical washers from the dealer (only place I could source the correct ones), I've got the part number if you need it.
1972-D100
10-06-2008, 03:05 PM
I usually use grade 8 on all exhaust bolts, only because the amount of torque you have to apply to them to get em back off. I don't know what the orginal hardness is on them.
I don't need the washers, the bolts that I have in there are designed specifically for headers. But thanks! I'm sure that was a fun futune hunt.
1972-D100
10-06-2008, 03:06 PM
I meant fortune!
Ryan_340
10-06-2008, 06:22 PM
I saw that one on there, but it is not the same grille, it is for a 73-75 I think. Brads NOS is the same place that said they have a NOS in my grille, but they wanted 850 for it and 200 for a used one that was beat up worse than mine. I guess I just have a rare grille. Also the only problem with buying a NOS that is painted is that you have to have it anodized after you strip the paint, if you don't you have to use polish on it 4-5 times a year to keep it looking new.
That NOS grille in the link is for 74-76 trucks, 72-73 are the same grille and I swear they are the hardest dodge truck grille to find! I am still looking for one in decent condition.
1972-D100
10-07-2008, 09:05 AM
Here is the pics of a used one at Brads NOS... It is worse shape than mine so I'm not interested in it, but you might be.... Here is their contact info and website:
Brad's NOS Parts
1420 Lake Dogwood Drive
PO Box 2988
West Columbia, SC 29171
Phone: 803-755-0066 Fax: 803-755-9722
http://www.bradsnosmopar.com/
I have heard in the past couple of days with some of the guys having issues with though, I haven't ordered anything from them so I personally couldn't tell you...:secret2:
fins2fuselage
10-07-2008, 10:06 AM
Er...I don't mean to hijack this thread or anything, but are those nuts and bolts supposed to be grade 8? I replaced several (the ones I could get out--unfortunately not the two center ones on the drivers side, which are the ones I WANTED to get out!) recently and after reviewing the FSM carefully, looking at the old bolts, and thinking about, I decided to use stainless steel along with the high-temp. antiseize, so the darn things would never seize again. I figured the FSM didn't specify hardened bolts there because there isn't any real major load on those fasteners (just lots of expansion and contraction movement of the manifold). but maybe I got that wrong.
Please correct me if I'm out in left field and I'll replace those ss with grade 8.
p.s. I did take the trouble to buy new conical washers from the dealer (only place I could source the correct ones), I've got the part number if you need it.
M-cook,
I suppose what I was getting at was this: DON'T use Grade 5 hardware on the exhaust manifolds.
Stainless works just fine, of course, but it is too difficult/prohibitively expensive/too much hassle to get stailess hardware in small quantities either locally or from Totally Stainless. I just settle for Grade 8 from my local NAPA and slather them really thoroughly with hi-temp copper anti-seize.
Do you have a good source where we can buy stainess in small quantities at rational prices?
Jeff
Megunticook
10-07-2008, 12:01 PM
Do you have a good source where we can buy stainess in small quantities
yes
at rational prices?
no!
1979D100
10-09-2008, 09:06 PM
Moparfan, There used to be a HUGE salvage yard in Cooperton, OK (Northwest of Lawton) that had everything you could want. I had a '76 Ranger F100 with a 390M and a 2.37:1 rear end. He was the only place I could find the u-joint brackets. He has a lot of trucks. There was also a big salvage yard up in Porter Hill, OK, just north of Lake Latonka.
Good luck on your hunt! I just bought a 1979 D100 last Sunday that is a running project, so the hunt for parts has just begun for me! My first item is a bed since mine is rusting out above both rear wheel wells.....
Good luck, and may Mopar be with you.....
1972-D100
10-14-2008, 10:45 AM
Thanks '79,
Most of the yards here have a ton of Chevy's and Fords, but only a handful of Dodge so I have had a hard time locating a good source for local used parts. Been spending most of my time driving around and looking in all of fields and behind old farm houses hoping to find one just sitting there begging to be bought!:gr_patrio
1979D100
10-14-2008, 06:57 PM
I'm going scavenger hunting this Friday (I hope) at the Pull-A-Part in S. OKC. Depends upon the honey-do list I agreed to sight-unseen in order to talk her into buying the '79 last week......:crazy:
I'm also scheduled to play some golf, so we'll see. If it looks good I'll make a new thread....
