Lash adjuster retainers for 3.0?

[peter_x]

Hi.

I am in the process of replacing the lifters on my '93 Caravan 3.0. Only one went bad, but I decided to do them all.

I got to the point where I put the rocker arm assembly back onto the head and of course a few lifters fell out. I then realized what the FSM meant. I need the retaining tools, which are like a c-shaped clip that holds in the lifters.

Is this something to get from a dealer, or auto parts place?

Thanks.

(oh yeah, I also had a "bonus step" of cleaning out a squirrels' nest from the V)

[peter_x]

Ok, I just cut some out of aluminum flashing, and it worked fine. Still have the rear bank to do.

[StandOnCliff]

Putting a dab of pre-lube in the rocker hole,before inserting the lifter, usually works for me.

[peter_x]

Indeed, I was thinking of putting Vaseline, but didn't want to block the oil from moving through the holes. I didn't think of pre-lube. I also let them soak in ATF overnight on advice from a friend.

Anyway, I got the rear bank done. I got the intake on too before darkness stopped me. So I still have all the hoses and connectors, and the plenum for tomorrow.

Do you know how to replace the rubber fuel lines that connect to the fuel rails? On their other end, they have that crimp connection to the steel line. I will try to get a pic later. They are all rotted away and need replacing.

Thanks.

edit: If anyone wants to try this, removing the alternator seems to be necessary to remove the rear valve cover. Neither the FSM or Haynes mentions this IIRC.

I followed the procedure in the Haynes, in which you take off the rocker assembly by removing the bolts from the bearing caps. For some reason, the FSM has a much more involved procedure.

Other than that it is pretty straightforward.

edit2: and I forgot something important... When you unthread the bearing cap screws, keep them in the assembly as you lift it off the head. If you take them out, the springs push the bearing caps from the shaft, and you have to press it back together while putting the screw in to hold it together. Not until I did the rear bank did I realize I can keep those screws in there the whole time.

[StandOnCliff]

Fresh motor oil would be the best bet to soak new lifters in. If you are meaning the two rubber lines that come from the body to the fuel rail, I have replaced mine. Using pliers, side cutters or what not, carefully break and rip that metal coupler (crimp connector) off the line and remove the rubber hose. It will give you, once removed, a clean tube with a flare on it. When getting a new fuel line, tell them you want high pressure fuel line. Slip the new line over the flare and clamp both ends once they are over the flare. I double clamped mine to make sure it never worked loose. The return line doesn't need to be high pressure and can be clamped with one clamp on each end.
Leaving the bolts in the bearing caps prevents the rocker arm assembly from falling apart and keeps from getting them mixed up.

[peter_x]

Ok, got the job done.

When I started the engine, however, I still got a loud noise which worried me. I always had a ticking noise on cold startup, which all of a sudden got worse and threw a CEL. I figured I had a noisy lifter which went totally bad. After I replaced them and started it up, it still had the same loud noise. I was thinking maybe a valve was the actual problem. I let it run for about 15 minutes and took it for a drive, and the noise got less and finally left completely. I guess I'll know on the next cold start what happened. The CEL also went off.

Oh yeah, I read in the manual the fuel lines were quick-disconnects. I replaced them with regular line. I didn't think to put two clamps on the high side. It seems that could be necessary because there is no flare on that side (aside from the large flare for the connectors, which the line wouldn't fit over).

Thanks!

[StandOnCliff]

If it ever does pop off, it will go over that flare. Enough elbow grease and a little vasoline or pre-lube helps it happen. I am using a 5/16 high pressure fuel line if this helps. I have an 88 model so it may differ now. The quick disconnect on mine were at the body end and the crimped connector was at the fuel rail side. They are not made to come off and when the hoses rot out, they say to replace the whole fuel rail which gives you new line with new quick disconnects. I've been driving for two years with it fixed this way and have had no problems. I also put split wire loom (flexible tubing) on the hoses. It looks better and protects it. The knocking is exactly why pre-lube is supposed to be used. Until oil gets up to your heads it doesn't have lubrication.Even though the lifters were soaked in oil, they still needed to fill up also. Luckily it did stop for you, I've seen others that wiped their cam bearings and all out.

[peter_x]

Ok, the '93 is different then. I had regular clamps on the rail side, and the quick-disconnects on the body side. So at least I didn't need to cut anything, although I will put extra clamps on the body side connections.

Anyway, I gave it a cold start this morning (and this afternoon), and the ticking is gone. Asides from a tiny little bit for a minute after start up, which I suppose exists on any 3.0. It's nothing like it was before.