crank pulley removal

[dakota10]

Hi,
Hope you can help.I'm to remove the crank pulley on a 99 2.4L.No luck so far .I have a 3 jaw puller,but I don't know if it's the right one.Is the scew on the puller suppose to to screw in the bolt hole for the pulley bolt? Thanks for the help.

[StandOnCliff]

The screw on the puller should not go in the hole. It will mess your threads up for the actual bolt. Easiest way is to pull the bolt and remove the big washer on it. Replace the bolt back into the crank hole,then attach the puller. A socket that is smaller then the pulley hole will work also if the removing washer and replacing bolt doesn't work. Tighten the puller down until it is pretty tight, then use a hammer to tap on the head of the screw for the puller, then tighten the puller a little bit more. Keep doing this until it pops off.

[vabear]

In reality there is and adaptor that screws into the bolt hole, and then the puller center pulls against that device

[StandOnCliff]

He's trying to remove it not put it on. Any three jaw puller I have seen has three jaws in a triangular pattern on the outside of a base. A long screw is in the center of that base, with a pivoting flat tip on the bottom or just a ball if the pad fell off and usually a 5/8 head at the top. This screw tightens to the crank. As you turn it clockwise the screw pushes in making the jaws pull out. With the jaws locked behind the pulley, they can't pull out without taking the pulley with them.This pulls the pulley off the crank. "This is the key as too if the puller will actually pull the pulley. If you can't get the three jaws to stay locked in, then that style puller won't work for you." Make sure you try with the jaws in both directions, feet in and feet out before determining the puller won't work.
If you were screwing it and the puller was pulling on that center piece it would be trying to pull the pulley on. Unless of course, if the pulley, was inside the crank, then the center would need pulled not pushed.You could get an adapter that screws in and is above the crank hole, but the puller still needs to push on it and just costs money.
It will try to screw into the hole that the bolt was removed from or possibly damage the threads if the pivoting tip is small enough to fit in the hole of the crank or the pad is gone and all it has is a ball at the end. Blocking the hole prevents this. A big socket that is smaller then the hold point of the crank bolt or the actual bolt put back in place with the washer removed provides this. Unless the pulley only has a hole a little bigger then the bolt and you can't see the crankshaft after the bolt is removed. This is easy to tell by the size of the washer on the bolt and if the bolt is inside the pulley. If the bolt head is protruding from the pulley with a smaller washer, then the hole needs a longer, smaller bolt with no head inserted or the adapter put into the hole so the puller has something to push on without damaging the threads.

[FWDtransbuilder]

The OTC 6267 GM / Chrysler Crank Pulley / Damper Puller tool is a special 3-jaw puller that allows the removal of Chrysler and GM damper pulleys in tight http://Pullers, Holders, Belt Tools OTC 6267 GM - Chrysler Crank Pulley ... (http://Pullers, Holders, Belt Tools OTC 6267 GM - Chrysler Crank Pulley with pic ...)

[sca]

Usually you can put a socket or an extension into the crank bolt hole and have the puller bolt go on there without damaging the threats.

[dakota10]

That's what I did.I used a 1/4 inch extension bar,it worked good.Thanks.