I'm in the middle of removing my leaf springs on the rear and need a little guidance.
With several days of PB Blaster and patience, I was able to remove the u-bolts and all 6 nuts from the spring and shackle bolts (one of those nuts cracked one of grandpa's 60-year old 15/16 Snap-On sockets, but to SO's credit they replaced it no questions asked).
I figured I was home free then, just drive out the bolts and remove the spring. But after whaling on one of the bolt ends with a 9-lb. hammer I started to wonder if maybe they were threaded into something. So I got a box wrench on one of the shackle bolt heads, and sure enough it started backing out as I turned it.
But the only bolts I can turn are the upper bolts on the shackle (which can't be removed unless the lower bolts are removed the spring assembly removed from the truck. All 4 other bolts are seized solid, I spent an hour trying. I've been hitting them with PB Blaster every day since, but they're really seized good. Probably haven't moved since they left the factory in 35 years ago.
So...are these things threaded into the bushing? Or the outer hole in the brackets? Where are the female threads exactly?
I've contemplating taking the sawzall and cutting all 4 bolts on either side of the spring, but then will it be impossible to get the shanks out of the bushings (I may reuse these springs, need a professional evaluation of their condition)?
Any experiences or advice from those who've done this procedure would be much appreciated.
the way i always did it was to take pressure off the spring by placing a jack on the spring itself.
Megunticook
06-30-2008, 09:33 AM
There's no pressure on the springs...I raised the rear end of the frame until there was no weight on the springs, then removed the u-bolts. So at this point the springs are just hanging from the frame with nothing under them.
DiverDwnPowrRam
06-30-2008, 09:47 PM
There is still a bit of spring tension on it...when you pop it loose please do not have any part or your arms near..or body.
Megunticook
06-30-2008, 10:11 PM
OK, I'll take your advice and be cautious when removing the bolts.
But back to my original question, where exactly are the female threads that those bolts thread into? And what's the best way to get them out?
BaggedIndy
07-01-2008, 12:00 AM
There are no threads, they have to be seized in the bushing. I had to cut the ones on my 87 Ramcharger.
Megunticook
07-01-2008, 06:33 AM
I didn't think they were threaded, that's why I started to try and whack them out with a hammer, but what's got me confused is that when I wrench either of the upper bolts in the shackles counterclockwise (for some reason these didn't seem to be seized), they are very clearly backing out (in the second photo you can see a bit of the bolt shank exposed beneath the hex head--that was after a few turns with the wrench).
If I knew for sure they weren't threaded, I'd go to town on then with the 9lb. hammer again. The one I started on started to "mushroom" on the end, though, from the impacts.
So let's say I take the sawzall to them. After the springs are off, how do you get the bushings with the cut-off shanks of the bolts out of the spring eye? Or do I need to just plan on spending $300 for a new set of springs? I was thinking I might get away with just replacing the bushings and hardware since the factory springs seem in OK shape.
Speed Dragon
07-01-2008, 08:39 AM
Torch :) heat the shackle up while someone beats on the bolt. If you catch the bushing on fire, so much the better, let it burn out of there. You always just torch the shackles off, looks like they need replacing anyway.
BaggedIndy
07-01-2008, 08:53 AM
Like Speed said I would just use a torch and then replace the bushings with some Urethane bushings.
Megunticook
07-07-2008, 09:56 AM
Torch :)You always just torch the shackles off
Well, OK, I was planning on getting new shackles so I don't mind ruining the old ones.
But let's say you cut the shackles out. What do you do in the front? I don't want to mutiliate the bracket/hanger (whatever you call it) that's riveted to the frame...
And I am now certain that the upper bolts in the rear are threaded (I can back them in and out quite easily by rotating the bolt). So I'm thinking the other bolts must be threaded too, and the only place the female threads could be would be the outside holes in the brackets. If I cut the bolts to free the spring in the front and the lower bolts in the rear, how will I extract the remaining portion of the bolt shank that's still threaded in the bracket?
I got some Kroil, will try that for a few days instead of PB Blaster (a lot of people seem to think it works better), but something tells me these bolts ain't going to budge.
Megunticook
07-16-2008, 12:00 PM
In case anybody's in the same boat as me, just wanted to report that a sawzall is doing the trick--just cut the bolt on either side of the spring. You will want several new (i.e. sharp) metal-cutting blades, the longer the better (think mine are 8"). These hardened bolts take some patience, but eventually the saw will cut through...
Shian
07-16-2008, 12:34 PM
When i put the lift on my 77 W100 i had the same problem. The bolts are hardened so you won't be able to cut them with a sawzaw. I used a cut off whell and cut the bolts on the inside of the brackets. After that use a big pry bar and flex the bracket just enought to pull the springs out. The take a 1" hole saw remove the pilot bit and drill the bushings out. You will have to drill from both sides. After you get the bushings out there is a metal sleeve inside the sping eye. Bend the side of the bushing over with a punch and a hammer. Then grab the bent over piece with a pair of vise grips and twist it until it breaks away from the spring eye.
Megunticook
07-17-2008, 03:59 AM
The bolts are hardened so you won't be able to cut them with a sawzaw.
Actually a sawzall with the right blade works--that's what I've been using. Not lightning fast, but it will slice through those bolts eventually.
take a 1" hole saw remove the pilot bit and drill the bushings out. sounds like a good approach...I'll give it a try.
Megunticook
07-22-2008, 08:13 AM
Done! I won't tell you how #$*&$%ing long it took though! Not the most enjoyable task I've undertaken...
http://edgeis.com/graphics/projects/truck/suspension/springs.jpg
Now...before I wrestle to remove those old bushings...is there anyway to tell if these old springs are still good? Can any of you tell just by looking at the arch in the photos?
None of the leaves are broken or cracked that I can see.
If I can salvage these, I will (although I'm not looking forward to removing those bushings!). They'll get the same clean-up and paint job that the rest of the rear end is getting. I just don't want to invest the time if I'd be better off just buying new ones (although that will run close to $400).
Speed Dragon
07-22-2008, 08:21 AM
They look fine, arch looks about the same. If it wasn't sagging on either side before you started all this, and they are not cracked, then they are mostly likely good to go. From the looks of them, I'd reuse them (after some cleanup and some paint, that is :)) BTW, you can burn the bushings out w/ a small propane torch, although the holesaw idea sound better.
Megunticook
07-23-2008, 07:24 AM
They look fine, arch looks about the same. If it wasn't sagging on either side before you started all this, and they are not cracked, then they are mostly likely good to go.
OK--as long as they do the job, I'll reuse them (unlike my front springs, which arch DOWNward--definite candidate for replacement!--but that's a future project).
Does a spring's stiffness or weight capacity diminish over time?
I picked up a 1" hole saw to go after those 4 bushings. I have a bad feeling this is going to be long, tedious job, though.
Should I be soaking these in Kroil now?
Is it even worth trying to pound them out after a good soaking, or don't even bother?
Speed Dragon
07-23-2008, 08:01 AM
Is it even worth trying to pound them out after a good soaking, or don't even bother?
