I just purchased a 1980 D-150 with a few glitches. :) The turn signals do not flash. All the lights work on the truck and the hazards work. The signal flasher in the circuit breaker is okay, I swapped it with the hazard flasher and the hazards worked. The previous owner told me the switch in the steering wheel column is okay and that the problem is this relay located about midway in the cab under the dash.He showed me where it was and gave me the part# . Turns out that this "relay" is a buzzer. This is the number 04049059.
So the question is..will this buzzer affect the signals flashing? Doesn't make sense to me. I don't know if the buzzer tells you the door is open or lights are on, but before I spend $20 thought I'd ask you folks. I'm guessing its the switch in the column. Anybody out there have any ideas? Is it as difficult as I think it will be to work on the switch in the column?
Thanks in advance.
Reed_46052
06-26-2008, 10:50 AM
problem could be with the light bulbs - if broken - will cause the turn signal not to flash for that direction. if both side bulbs are out - then no flash. also, if the flasher failed then turn signal will not flash.
reed
sam03v
06-30-2008, 08:42 AM
Probably just talking to myself here, but...
The turn signal fuse was blowing so I got the circuit diagram and traced it back to the instrument cluster. There I found someone had put a jumper wire between two pins of the circuit board plug. I think I know what the person was trying to do, but I won't go into that here. Anyway, I took the jumper off and voila the turn signals work now.!:rck:
The oil pressure gauge is responding too, but i don't think it is accurate. THe ammeter gauge is toast and the temp gauge still doesn't work, could be the sender. So I made some progress this weekend.
charlie1935
06-30-2008, 09:47 AM
The oil pressure, temp., and gas gauges have a voltage regulator that supplies them with 5 volts. It is located on the back of the instrument cluster. A little rectangular metal thing that just plugs in.:gr_patrio
sam03v
06-30-2008, 11:10 AM
Yeah i was wondering about that regulator. Is there a way to check that? There's 3 pins so I guess if you apply 12 volts to 2 of the pins you should get 5 out from two other pins. Assuming it's a made to regulate 12v down to 5...
Speed Dragon
07-01-2008, 08:27 AM
What's wrong w/ the amp gauge? If it was totally shot the truck wouldn't run, unless someone bypassed it. Are there a 2 big wires running to the back of it still? 1 black, 1 red?
sam03v
07-01-2008, 10:05 AM
After looking at it more closely I think it is okay. The heavy red and wires were still there. I just assumed it wasn't working, because it doesn't move at all when I start the truck. I also thought it would be spring loaded. I can move the needle by hand back and forth without any resisitance, but that is normal right? .
Eventually I am going to bypass the amp gauge though, and rewire as written up in "AMP gauges at the dash are troublesome" by Mark Hamilton.
Side note: The voltage regulator at the back of the panel was bad. I rewired a 7805 IC in place and will try it tonight.
Here is a few pictures of the truck. The paint job is strange, anyone know if those pin stripes are original?
sam03v
07-03-2008, 09:51 AM
Just a not so quick update.
The instrument cluster voltage regulator upgrade went well. Much cheaper than the $37 stock replacement from Autozone. The only wierd thing now is that my dash dimmer doesn't work like before when I have the lights on. When I rotate the knob the dash lights are either on full blast or they are off. Don't know if that is the headlight swicht or something to do with the 7805 IC upgrade.
I also replaced the coolant temperature sender and now my temp gauge is working. Its reading between 1/4 and 1/2 the temp scale when the engine is hot so it seems reasonably accurate. At least I have some indicator.
The oil pressure gauge is not working so I'm hoping it's the oil pressure sender and not super low oil pressure. The sender on there now has 3 prongs and wiring for 3 prongs, but according to Autozone this is for a cluster with an oil "light" not gauge. So that's got me wondering who did what with this cluster and the wiring...:huh:
I bypassed the Amp guage by bolting the red and black wires together(temporary) and wrapping with copious amounts of electrical tape.
The speedometer cable needs replacing I think. Right now the needle bounces and makes a dinging sound like a bell every time it bounces so I just disconnected it from the back of the speedo.
