1980 D-150 carb/choke question

[sam03v]

Hello,

I just bought a 1980 D-150, with a slant 6, single barrel carb, 4spd manual xmission. Its' in great shape, and supposedly gone thru by a reliable mechanic. But I have a few questions.

It has an auto choke device that is basically a metal coil/spring mounted on top of the exhaust manifold that expands when hot and opens the choke by pushing a metal rod. Was this a standard item for this engine? I had to adjust the rod because it was binding and keeping the choke partially closed when hot and now I'm wondering about the carb. It's new, but doesn't seem to be adjusted properly. When the engine is cold and I step fullly on the gas before starting it, the choke does not close all the way. It should close right, and then slowly open, right?

All of the emission control devices have been removed from this engine (including the cat). What should I expect as far as mpg, roughly on the hwy?

I'm surprised that parts are a little difficult to find. Any suggestions on vendors? None of the panel instruments work(temp, oil, fuel). No big deal, I'll probably buy a 'triple gauge set' off ebay or something, but it would be nice to get the original gauges to work.

Thanks in advance,

[77Utiline]

It has an auto choke device that is basically a metal coil/spring mounted on top of the exhaust manifold that expands when hot and opens the choke by pushing a metal rod.

It actually is a bi-metallic spring (one side heats up at a lower temp. than the other) also known as a choke-stat and yes on the 225 it is clearly visable and is positioned on the ex. man.

Was this a standard item for this engine? I had to adjust the rod because it was binding and keeping the choke partially closed when hot and now I'm wondering about the carb.

The choke stat was standard on any Mopar that had an "automatic" choke. Typically even if the carb. gets replaced the choke stat is neglected or flat out ignored and people will attempt to "adjust" the new carb. in hopes that the issues with the "bad" carb. will magically disappear with this new rebuilt carb.

It's new, but doesn't seem to be adjusted properly. When the engine is cold and I step fullly on the gas before starting it, the choke does not close all the way. It should close right, and then slowly open, right?

You don't want it fully closed because you still need some air in order for the engine to run, kind of like holding your breath under water if you don't breath above water you drown same with a carb. no air it drowns. Engines breath too.

All of the emission control devices have been removed from this engine (including the cat). What should I expect as far as mpg, roughly on the hwy?

How strict are the emissions laws where you're at? If they are slim to none you should be fine. The fact that your truck is 30 some years old in alot of states makes it a "collector" vehicle and emission laws need not apply. As far as MPG, is your truck 4wd? Either way I would guess that your 225 should get you between 12 and 15mpg.

I'm surprised that parts are a little difficult to find. Any suggestions on vendors? None of the panel instruments work(temp, oil, fuel). No big deal, I'll probably buy a 'triple gauge set' off ebay or something, but it would be nice to get the original gauges to work.

Thanks in advance,

A little difficult I like the optimism lol. Parts houses tend to vary from state to state unfortunately. As for the instrument panel the source of most if not all of your problems is a little silver box that plugs into the back of the cluster this is your instument panel voltage regulator/ limiter. Go to your local Dodge dealer if they don't catalog back to your year find out how far back they go. I know that my 85 B250 has the same vr as my 77 W100. There are also alternatives including DIY solid state regulaters that you can the parts for at your local RadioShack or where ever.

Hope this helps and good luck

[Mopower79]

I'm surprised that parts are a little difficult to find. Any suggestions on vendors? None of the panel instruments work(temp, oil, fuel). No big deal, I'll probably buy a 'triple gauge set' off ebay or something, but it would be nice to get the original gauges to work.

This works.. Very well..
And cheaper than OEM replacement!!
Good Luck!!!
Link:
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146693&highlight=voltage+regulator

[Speed Dragon]

As long as the truck starts fine, the choke doesn't have to close all the way. Typically they are supposed to just barely fully close when stone cold, and slowly come off and the engine warms up. I've run into a couple engines that didn't need it all the way closed, and in fact several of mine I don't even use a choke at all. I'm in the warm South though :D

[sam03v]

Thanks for the replies.

I'm in Tallahassee Florida, so we have plenty of heat here also. We don't have any emission tests down here so I dont' have to worry about that. I just want to get the carb working like it should. I haven't worked on them in a long time. I used to have a '65 mustang with a 4bbl Holley, with a manual choke, so I have some experience, but lately(the past 10 years) i've owned fuel injected cars so I'm a little carburetor rusty.. This D-150 is getting ~ 14mpg... since the odometer is gone, thats a rough estimate, but I guess Im' in the ball park of normal.

I think I'll need to put a new clutch in it soon though. Its got that shake to it when engaging first gear or reverse. I just did a clutch on a Ford Escort, so I can see the D-150 will be a heck of alot easier!

anywho, thanks again for the comments.

[76D100]

Hey, thats my dash!

since then ive yucked out the vaccum and volt guage and inserted a stock clock.

[Speed Dragon]

I just did a clutch on a Ford Escort, so I can see the D-150 will be a heck of alot easier!

A whole lot easier, just don't drop the trans on you fingernail. Not fun :(