I have a 84 D150 Shortbox, the truck originally came with a 3.7 /6 motor, but when I got it someone had all ready put a 318 2BBL in it. The carb is a Holly Autolite Rebuild. Just did a tune up to it causing it was running like a POS.
New Cap, Rotor, Plugs Wires, Set Timming and Mixtures. So truck runs a lot better but I am still having issues.
If I set the timing to anything more then about 6 Degrees BTDC the truck starts to stumble and miss while driving. If I move the timing so I dont have the missing and stutering then I have no power and it lags at WOT. I did notice that the cap dosn't seem to be tight could this be the issue should I replace the cap again or could this be the signs of a worn dist? Plugs are gapped at 0.35 and they are champions. Wires are just stock replacement 7mm wires. New Air Cleaner. From what I remember when I got the truck the guy said the 318 came out of a 76. The air cleaner has a label saying timing should be 2 ATC. Cleaned the carb out with carb cleaner tonight and noticed that the base gasket may be sucking some air, going to get a new one tomorrow and see if this helps.
Any other suggestions would be appreciated as I am at a loss here, almost thinking that when they put the engine in that the dist may be out a tooth?? could this resemble what I am seeing?? No EGR valve and block off plate was installed instead. purge canistor was removed as well. Also looks like wrong fuel pump is on the engine for the truck, the truck has a feed line and a return line, but the return line is not hooked up to the pump, the pump only allows for a feed and then the carb line, possible it is sucking air from the return line? Noticed that the fuel pump is covered in oil now so I will probably be replacing that as well tomorrow.
98MagnumDakota
06-02-2008, 02:55 AM
Wow, alsorts of fun here. I would start by changing your gasket an that air suckin issue. I would also look at your dist.cap. If it aint tight it might not be getting good contact with your rotor cap an that coud be part of your problem. One more thing might help you is I know on the old fords the harmonic balancer will shift making your timing marks off. Best way to time it might be by feel and ear. An if you were of a tooth on the dist you would see it right off when you put the light on it, your timing mark would probly be noticably off.
charlie1935
06-02-2008, 08:29 AM
On my 87 the 3rd fuel line plugs onto the fuel filter. :gr_patrio
neura
06-02-2008, 01:00 PM
Yup lots of fun here... how tight should that dist cap be?? I am able to rock it back and forth with the clips on, the old one did the same thing, so I am thinking that the dist may be worn here. As for the timing marks, when I first hooked up the light I couldn't even see the timing line untill I moved the dist about 15 degrees.. so that is what made me think it could be out a tooth.
98MagnumDakota
06-02-2008, 01:41 PM
I could be wrong about the the cap but I dont think you should be able to rock it, it should be a fairly snug fit. You can also try to bend your clips to try for a tighter fit. With your timing take out the dist. an jump it a tooth. Do a little trial and error research.
charlie1935
06-02-2008, 02:19 PM
How can one get the distributor in a tooth off? Ain't no teeth on any of mine.
:confused:
Delray Dude
06-02-2008, 02:28 PM
Distrib cap should fit snug on the distrib - most likely your problem if it wobbles around.
What ignition are you running on this? Old 70's style Mopar electonic? MSD?
The computer spark?
It could be that you have the wrong distributor for the ignition setup - there are two differnet distribs for the electonic type - early style with a mechanical and vacuum advance, and the later style that is locked down and does not advance (the computer did the advancing for it).
If you are running the compter controled ignition on an old distrib that is advancing - you can get that problem - advance on advance...etc. I suspect this might be your problem - you have the old distrib that mechanicall advances as the RPM increases and the computer advances on what it thinks is a locked down deal - so it'd idle ok and as you increase RPM your advance goes to 50-60 BTDC and runs like crap.
A Mopar distrib can not be "jumped" a tooth - the oil pump drive gear indexes the rotor to point to #1 if they installed it right - and either the distrib is dead on or 180 out. To check for this before you do anything else - get #1 to TDC on compression - then look to see if the rotor on the distib is pointing to #1, and that your #1 plug wire goes to that pole on the distrib (or very close). If the rotor is pointing the exact opposite - then it's 180 out - undo the clamp lift the distrib and rotate it (The rotor assembly) 180 and drop it back in.
If they just threw the oil drive gear in - then all is not lost - you can attempt to put it in the correct place but you must get the motor to TDC on #1 in the compression stroke - back out the gear and slide it into the correct position - the slot will then point to the #1 cylinder. Also check the balancer at this point - the mark on it should line up with the mark on the chain cover.
If you can not or don't want to mess with the drive gear - you can address the timing that way (1st check to see if your distrib is 180 out).
With engine at TDC in #1 firing postion - note where the distrib rotor is pointing. With that as your reference - make that pole on the cap your #1 and place the #1 wire on that one. THen go around the distrib clockwise and index the remaing wires in order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. This will get you close to your timing mark.
Then fire it up and adjust the timing to make it right.
neura
06-03-2008, 01:22 AM
was out tinkering with the truck for a few hours tonight. Replaced vacum advance line, tightend down the carb, check the timing mark good there, so I hooked up the timing light again to it, roughly at about 10 BTDC now. Firing order is good. Tried bending the clips too hold the dist cap down better, got it to clamp a bit better but with a little force will still rock back and forth. You can't turn it now though. I am thinking the clips are worn out on it and I may need to see about getting some new ones?? anyone know if they sell the clips or is it a whole dist?
I think remaining issues now are in the carb. So I backed off the idle screw so it wasn't touching and set the mixtures up so it ran pretty nice. Now I turned the idle screw back in till it just touched. Mixtures screws are out about 1 and 1/2 turns on each side. I haven't setup the fast idle yet so the cam screw is all the way out.
I am pretty sure the choke isn't working properly since the wire isn't hooked up. But I did rebend the rod so the choke would be off for now.
After test driving the truck this is now what is happening.
I have power, can't spin the tires yet but at least it actually gets up and moves again. no more back firing, but while just maintaining at a cruising speed just after it shifts into 3rd it still bucks / stutters / stumble untill I give it a little more fuel. So this is where I am at, I am thinking metering rod needs to be adjusted. But does it need to sit down further or come up more??
neura
06-03-2008, 01:29 AM
Another quick note, going to pick up a new fuel pump tomorrow on the way home from work and a fuel filter. I noticed tonight that the fuel filter is before the pump and the return line is not hooked to anything. Since the return is on the filter :-) So now the qustion is shood I move the filter to the carb side of the pump (single steel line from pump to carb right now). or should I put it before the pump like it is and just hook the return line to it?
98MagnumDakota
06-03-2008, 01:59 AM
Check the float levals on the carb, I know how to do a Holley but Im lost every were else. Right now thats what it kinda sounds like to me.
Delray Dude
06-03-2008, 07:28 AM
Do both - doesn't hurt to have a filter ahead of the pump - keeps the "crap" from getting into the pump - get one of those steel 1 in and 1 out deals and then put another on the backside of the pump - with the metered output to the return - that way you've got it covered....
I'd replace the pump fist and see where you are at - you might have a weak pump that causes the bucking in 3rd.
Speed Dragon
06-03-2008, 08:36 AM
Yeah weak fuel pump could cause the stumbling in 3rd maybe. Or it could just be a dirty carb. You'll probably be lucky if you can ever get it to spin anywhere except pulling out of your driveway or on a loose/slick surface :) Unless someone put a built 318 in it, or an older ('72-older) one.
neura
06-11-2008, 11:54 PM
haven't had too much time lately, but did a little more invetigating under the hood... I am going to be repairing the wiring harness in the engine compartment before I do much more, when the guys I got the truck from put the 318 in and removed all of the computers etc they butchard the wiring harness and looks like the choke wasn't hooked up, the voltage regulator wire was broke, the main altentator wire actually melted the butt connectors they had put in as well as bunch of the other wiring... so I have been tracing wires so far and repairing them. hopefully I will get it all done by the weekend. Then I can go back to the fuel pump and filter and replace it. I might go out to the bone yard too and see if I can find a 4 barrel and intake for this 318.
