ignition switch changeout

[Megunticook]

OK, I've had a new ignition switch sitting on my parts shelf since last August, about time to install it. Was planning on doing it tomorrow, borrowed a steering wheel puller from a guy and figure I'm all set.

But as I study the FSM closer, it says I need a special "steering shaft remover" tool (C-4044) to press the shaft out of the bearing, which then allows you to remove the bearing housing and access the ignition switch.

Chiltons also describes the ignition switch removal and installation, but says nothing about this step--basically it looks like after you pull the wheel off you simply remove the turn signal switch and the ignition switch is right there. They even have a series of photos and illustrations showing the steps and there's no mention or depiction of pressing out the shaft or removing any "shaft bearing housing."

Normally I would take the FSM over the Chiltons any day. But seeing as how I've already borrowed the steering wheel puller for the weekend, and have the time set aside to get this done, I'm wondering if I should just go for it. What I don't want is to get halfway into it only to find that I need this "steering shaft remover" and have to reassemble everything and reschedule the whole operation for another day.

Has anybody changed out a column-mounted ignition switch on one of our trucks? Do you need this special shaft puller or not? From the looks of the FSM, you're actually supposed to pull the whole shaft assembly out of the truck and disassemble it in a vise, which seems like a lot of unecessary hassle. But I've learned not to trust Chilton's, of course.

I seem to recall pulling my wheel off about 8 years ago, before I knew anything, in a feeble attempt to fix my horn button. As I recall, when the wheel was off you could see the turn signal switch. But I don't totally trust my memory.

Advice, please.

p.s. should I also replace the turn signal switch? Mine works fine, just doesn't cancel when you straighten out the wheel. Can that be fixed or is a new switch the answer?

[doodlebug]

Megunticook, I haven't actually done this myself, but I lost the one and only key to my other Dodge truck (85 Model), and I had to have another one fast so I called a locksmith. I watched him pretty close as he was taking out the ignition switch, but it's been a few months and my old brain doesn't record as well as it used to. :D First he unscrewed the steering wheel nut and popped the steering wheel. He then used another tool which he said you could get at Advance or any of the parts houses. What it does is compresses a spring so you can get a "C" clip out of there to remove a metal plate. Once he removed that round plate, there was a few screws (3 or 4 I believe) that he had to remove. He used a magnetic tip screwdriver for this and before I could count out his money he had that switch replaced and everything back together. All told, it took him maybe 10 minutes to do the whole thing. What you are talking about may just be that tool he used. There was no pressing shafts out of bearings or anything like that. It simply pressed down on a plate which allowed him to remove that C clip.
As for the signal switch, you bet I would replace it while I had everything down(if you can still get it) .
Again, I'm not an expert by any stretch of the imagination, but I hope some of this helps you. If you do try this, PLEASE take pictures and write it up for us all. Good luck.

[Megunticook]

Thanks for the info. I was imagining it could be done without removing the column, and without any fancy pullers (except the steering wheel puller).

I reread the FSM and Chilton's again carefully last night after posting. I did notice this time that while Chilton's said nothing about removing the column assembly from the cab or removing the shaft, it did look like the shaft was gone in some of the pictures and illustrations.

Here's a couple photos from the '73 FSM that show the shaft being pressed out and then drawn back in:
http://edgeis.com/graphics/projects/truck/ignition_switch/figure_7.jpg
http://edgeis.com/graphics/projects/truck/ignition_switch/figure_23.jpg

There's a warning in the FSM that definitely makes me hesitate to do this without these tools:

"When installing this housing, the steering wheel shaft must be drawn, not pushed, through the bearing, using the bearing inner race as a reaction member, or damage to the lock housing components or bearing could result. DO NOT DRIVE THE SHAFT INTO THE BEARING."

Maybe this is just engineers being hyper-cautious, and in the real world you can pull the bearing housing and bearing off the shaft with the column installed, and push it back on carefully (I don't really see why not). But I would hate to try it and then bugger things up.

Hopefully somebody who has done this before will pipe in.

And yes, I will definitely photograph and document the process step-by-step.

[jakerboy]

Hello
I changed the ignition switch on my 73 w200 last fall . All that i used use a steering wheel puller and a phillips screw driver it did not take very long . It is a easy job .

[Megunticook]

All that i used use a steering wheel puller and a phillips screw driver it did not take very long . It is a easy job .

Thanks, that's what I needed to hear.

I wonder why the FSM makes it look like such a project?

So after you removed the turn signal switch do you just unfasten and remove the bearings/bearing housing plate to expose the ignition switch? Does the bearing assembly just slide iright off the shaft?

Phew, I'm so glad to hear this. After I pick up a new turn signal switch at the local CarQuest I'm going to tackle this after lunch.

[cribbs74]

I have gone down this road before, That puller may be needed, unless you unbolt the column entirely or remove the shaft and collar as an assembly. If not you will most likely need the puller. That bearing was pressed on the steering shaft pretty good in my 76. I ended up unbolting the shaft from the steering coupler and withdrawing it and the collar through the cab. After that I just replaced the switch re-installed the shaft and bolted it all back together.

Ron

[Megunticook]

Hmmm...the FSM makes it sound like you have to remove the column first and then press the shaft out of the bearing/housing.

Are you saying you removed the column, then pulled the shaft out with the bearing/housing still attached?

[cribbs74]

Yes, I removed my column because I was changing it out, however since you are not doing that you may be able to just unbolt the shaft from the steering coupler and pull it out (with housing) far enough to access the switch. After that push the shaft back down and bolt it back together. You may even get lucky and the bearing may just come free of the shaft and you can just slide the housing off. Mine wasn't like that it was pressed onto the shaft pretty good.......

Ron

[doodlebug]

This is obviously a very different procedure than that required on my 85/86. I didn't know there was that much difference in the year models. :o Still, all the more reason that I believe these sort of things should be written up and good pictures taken and placed in a "How To" or "FAQ" section, similar to what they have over on RamCharger Central. I know taking pictures and documenting the procedure would add to the time of making the repair, but it would be a tremendous help and time saver for those of us making this sort of repair. We could start with you Megunticook. :D

[Megunticook]

Well, maybe I will pull of the wheel and turn signal switch today and at least have a look, since I have those tools. At least I can change the turn signal switch (mine doesn't cancel when you straighten out the wheel).

I have a feeling, though, that it's not going to be as simple as pulling the bearing and housing off the shaft. Not sure I will have the time today for a full column removal, that sounds like a bit of a job.

[cribbs74]

It's really not that bad if you just unbolt the coupler down at the steering box and just pull the shaft up with the housing still attached. Should only take about an hour to do the job.

Ron

[Megunticook]

Well, I dove in today and managed to swap out the ignition switch. The bearing was not tight on the shaft and I was able to remove it and the housing fairly easily (maybe the reason it came off so easily is it's worn, or somebody previously buggered it, but it looked serviceable enough so I cleaned and repacked the bearings--besides, I don't think you can get replacements).

I took photos along the way and will post those plus a description of the procedure when I get some time. Everything went well except I found a thin metal strip on my workbench that I suspect may have come from the turn signal (I replaced the cam piece), but I didn't see where it could have been or what purpose it would've served.

Unfortunately I did not get to test it (the male bullet connectors I installed on my dash wiring ended up being too small to fit snug with the female terminals on the ignition switch wiring connector--decided maybe I should just try to get my hands on the other half of that connector, which was gone from my truck before I bought it).

But overall it went well and seemed like a fairly easy procedure.

Will get details up later.

[doodlebug]

Good going. Look forward to reading your write up. :cool:

[HemiPar]

So you had to remove the whole shaft? I was thinking once you have the steering wheel off and the turn sig cam out of the way you just push the locking pin in on the switch and it slide out of the colum. A 2 months ago i switched out mine from my dart and parts truck which is a 85. i had both back together in 20 min.

[Megunticook]

No, as luck would have it I did not have to remove the shaft--I was able to pull the shaft bearing and bearing housing off the shaft, even though the FSM says the whole column assembly needs to be removed from the truck and the shaft pressed out of the bearing with a special tool (then pulled back through the bearing with another special tool).

Will post pictures and details soon.

[Megunticook]

If you do try this, PLEASE take pictures and write it up for us all. Good luck.

Well I finally had a little time to get the photos together and write up a little step-by-step. It's available here:

http://edgeis.com/projects/truck/ignition_switch.html

Seems like we've had few ignition switch questions lately so hopefully this will be of help to people. Any way to make this permanently available on the forum?

If anybody has any clarifications or other information to add, please let me know--I can add your comments.

[Speed Dragon]

Looks pretty good. I posted a thread about my fuel tank swap How-To, but apparently it didn't post as I don't see it. Anyone interested in it LMK, it's not completely finished, but all the actual tank swap info is done, I can e-mail it to you.

[bherder]

Well I finally had a little time to get the photos together and write up a little step-by-step. It's available here:

http://edgeis.com/projects/truck/ignition_switch.html

Seems like we've had few ignition switch questions lately so hopefully this will be of help to people. Any way to make this permanently available on the forum?

If anybody has any clarifications or other information to add, please let me know--I can add your comments.

Good write-up Ed!

[Chump]

I havnt looked into the wiring terminals for the old style ignition switch but would make a guess that they are either Molex or Amp brand. I know the 77 uses Molex on the turn signal connector wiring. These usually go by pin or socket diameter like .093 etc.

[DiverDwnPowrRam]

yes that is a great write up! great how to.

[98MagnumDakota]

Good write up with the pics, I just wish I would have seen it last week when I posted a similar question.

[Megunticook]

Good write up with the pics, I just wish I would have seen it last week when I posted a similar question.

I just put it up yesterday...had to wait until I had some time to finish putting it together.

Did you get your switch in OK?