headers for the cummins?

[schorbf]

Has anyone installed headers on their new cummins? I saw an ad in a magazine the other day. I don't remember who the manufacturer was, but they looked pretty good.

I don't recall anyone talking about installing aftermarket headers on their cummins. I'm wondering if there is that much more horsepower to gain? I'm about to upgrade my exhaust and now these headers have caught my eye.

Does anyone have any input on this?

[PSiemens]

Somewhere while surfing I stumbled across a company that made headers. Can not remember where, but do remember that they made headers for diesels.
If I were considering headers, I would instead purchase an ATS three piece pulse exhaust manifold. The factory exhaust manifold has a tendency to crack the ears off the head. This occurs mostly on heavily fueled trucks after many heat cycles. The manifold shrinks and the end manifold hold down bolts have a lot of stress on them. Something has got to give, so....

[YellaDakRT]

Is that why ATS made that funky 2 piece design?!?!?! I could never figure that one out. That piece is also cast correct? I know on cars Tubular headers crack apart with high boost, and my truck's got WAY HI boost compaired to the cars I am talking about...

What is the benefits of em? Quicker turbo spool? or just more effecient, so my engine would be working less to do the same thing (I love mods like that)

This is a interesting concept, does anyone make aftermarket intakes? Banks had the "Big Hoss" on the sidewinder Dakota, which looked like it was designed in a Race shop, I'd love to have one of those, but they only work on the 24 valvers...

[PSiemens]

Expansion and contraction is the reason for the multi-piece design. I am not using an ATS exhaust manufold yet, but I have a feeling that it is in my future.
As for turbo spool-up, I can not say for certain, but guys that have them say a) yes, faster spool-up
b) a bit lower EGT (exhaust gas temp.)

Don't know who has or who makes an aftermarket intake manifold. I am not concerned about the intake flow because the turbocharger will force feed the intake. I do care about feeding the turbo, so I run an aftermarket air system, the P'Scotty. Even hole sawed a hole in my firewall to draw air from under the windshield.


Phil

[YellaDakRT]

Well it most defiantly sounds like a good idea. I understand the whole concept of the "intake side" being pressurized. But better flow = more power with less boost. They easier that can flow, the more power it can build (or atleast the quicker it can build it).

About your Intake, is it really annoying? I have a simple drop in K&N and I am really not convinced that it helps anything. When it gets dirty I can feel the difference, but nothing else. I have heard of the BHAF mod, which is just a shove on airfilter that is off a Cat backhoe or something. It seems like a decent idea, but I would have to "mount" it to somthing, I hate loose things under my hood, really bugs me.

I've run the truck down the stripe with a screen over the turbo inlet and nothing more, I honestly noticed nothing but my EGT's stayin a little lower.. my 1/4 times might have improved by a 1/10 of a second, but I thiink that was more launch related than anything.

[PSiemens]

The air mod helps with EGT, how much, I'd say a 100* or so. The Scotty uses a big K&N RE 0880 element. The engine breathes much more freely, but noise is more noticeable, especially the turbo whistle. I like it. At one time, I hated to relocate engine "stuff". Doesn't bother me anymore.
I see that you have a 1995 Ram. Same as me but I have a manual trans. I've got the #6 plate in too. Two weeks ago my brother and I installed a stage 1 ported head. Currently getting ready to install an aftermarket camshaft. Do you have a GSK? If not, get one ASAP. My truck revs like a 24 valver maybe better.

Phil

[YellaDakRT]

Do you have a GSK? If not, get one ASAP. My truck revs like a 24 valver maybe better.

Might I ask WTF this is? It sounds great and stuff, but what is it?!?!?!

I am right on the edge of sellin my Truck, it's gettin to be costly to drive anymore. I really love it, but I can't afford 12 MPG anymore!

[PSiemens]

GSK=Governor Spring Kit.

There are 2 governor spring bundles in the P7100 injection pump. They are accessed by removing a plug. Plug resides at rear of pump just behind the fuel shut off solenoid. Cotter pin at solenoid has to be removed for plug access. Then move shut down linkage out of the way.
Each spring bundle consists of 3 springs. Depending on the desired RPM, there are 2 GSK available, a 3K or 4K. I did not have 60 lb exhaust valve springs when I installed the GSK so I used the 3K GSK. You will have valve float with the 4K GSK if you don't have heavy duty (60 lb) exhaust valve springs.
The kits raise the RPM at which the P7100 starts to defuel. Before the 3K GSK my started to defuel at 2300 RPM or so. Not now, it pulls alot higher.
There is something wrong with the truck if all it gets is 12 MPG. Has the timing ever been checked? Are you using number 1 or #2 diesel fuel? Winter time decreases my mileage.

[PSiemens]

I have the tools to set my own timing, My timing is set at 15.5*, factory spec is 12.5*. Some things that affect mileage are: plugged fuel, air filter and timing. In my experience an auto will have less MPG that a standard. If the motor is in tune, then the biggest factor is the driver. How is the motor running? Any misses or shakes? Average outside temps? Smoke on startup and acceleration? There has to be a reason why the truck is doing 12 MPG. I want to help.

Phil

[YellaDakRT]

If the motor is in tune, then the biggest factor is the driver. How is the motor running? Any misses or shakes? Average outside temps? Smoke on startup and acceleration? There has to be a reason why the truck is doing 12 MPG. I want to help.

Phil

Well I have been babyin the truck everywhere, like idling up to speed, just barely touching the throttle.

Of course it shakes, it's a Diesel, but illregular ones, no seems to run like a swiss watch, a big loud shakey switch watch. Average outside temp I would say is about 50F

There is just a hint of smoke when it's cold outside when you first start it, goes away near instantly. No smoke except under HARD acceleration up a steep grade (typical diesel area for smoke) Other than that it's clean, bumper isn't even sooty (used to be darker every time I looked at it!)

About the plugged FF, I've got a replacement sitting at home, but when I tried to to take ol one off, I couldn't get the F*cker to unscrew, Am I missing something? It's only got like 15K on the current FF, but that's when I was told to replace it, every other oil change, it's prolly runnin closer to 18K now, Am I just a complete retard?!?!

As for the grade of diesel, nothing but #2. I think, it's the stuff at standard gas stations, none of that Red crap (friend filled it with that rubbish once, will never run that sh*t again!)

[PSiemens]

Your fuel filter is more than likely okay, unless you got a bad tank of diesel. To remove the FF: unplug the wires for the WIF (water in fuel) light. There is a plug/connector. Follow the wires from the bottom of the FF.
You will need a filter wrench to remove FF if it doesn't turn by hand. Use an oil filter band type wrench. Looking down at the FF, filter rotation will be clockwise.
From your description, all seems normal. I am going to think about this as poor fuel ecom. has to have a reason. I have learned that it is better to ask a question than to remain uninformed, so ask away. I'll try to help.
(are the brakes sticking or dragging?)

Phil

[YellaDakRT]

(are the brakes sticking or dragging?)

No sir, they sure aren't. They are brand new, front and rear. The front's I know are done right, cause I did them, and there is no pulling, burning nothing, I've done them a million times before (or so it seems) The Rear I took into a trusted friend at a local shop (never played with full floats before) We did It all together, and they have just the slightest amount of drag, so they are where they should be too, the E brake functions properly.

The truck feels just fine, doesn't feel down on power or anything! It might be, however, I dropped ~4000 Ft and it doesn't feel much faster down here, and I know my old Dakota was a hella difference between the two altitudes.

Maybe my baby is sick?!?! The Oil is clean, New Napa Gold Filter, Fresh Clean K&N airfilter, whats can I do???

[smokin-cummins]

It may not be getting cold enough to see the smoke caused by being out of time. It will happen on cold mornings, white smoke and the engine will run rough if you rev it up. Try starting it without the intake heaters. It should fire right up and run smooth at 50 degrees. If you get a rough idle starting it like this, you are out of time.

[YellaDakRT]

The "wait to start" light doesn't stay on at all. When I kick it over, it seems perfectly content to idle for years. Nothin bad that I can tell...

I'll try it tomorrow morning just to make sure I'm not crazy

[PSiemens]

It might be lack of heat that is causing poorer mileage. A diesel needs to run warm to be efficient. What is your temperature gauge doing? Does it cycle wildly? It is supposed to and that is normal. My temp gauge will go to the 1/2 way point and then drop rapidly when the thermostat opens. You might have a stuck open thermostat. I'd watch that temp gauge. I use a winter front.
Next, if gauge doesn't have "swings", I would block off the rad 70% or so with carboard. Make sure that the center of the fan is open to air. If only some fan blades get air and not others, then there is an imbalance and the blades will eventually break. I am still thinking.
Glad you do your own brakes and stuff. There is nothing to compare with "sweat equity".

Phil

[YellaDakRT]

Yes sir, that needle is all over, well never past a little before the middle of the guage, but from above where the guage starts to the middle, back and forth all the time.

[PSiemens]

Well, I am stumped. Some timing advance will improve MPG. If you sell your truck, try to get a manual trans equiped next. A m/t does better mileage.