how do I remove the rear Brake Drum to replace the hose? why is my brake drum difficult to move (it's hard)? I ture the adjuster star away and now the rear hub move freely but still would come out..
Rick99
01-12-2008, 07:22 PM
If it feels like you can slide the drum off slightly, then it springs back, just keep turning the adjuster. The drum can build up a ridge as it wears and you need to retract the shoes enough to clear the ridge. Another possibility is that the hub is rusted to the drum, in which case a good soak with rust penetrant would help. (Just remember you have to replace your brake shoes if you get oil all over them.)
2002dodge
01-12-2008, 09:24 PM
no the drum is not even move (like in or out) at all. when i said it move freely, I mean the whole hub is rotate and it's not lock. thanks for the reply
XDGT03
01-12-2008, 09:56 PM
you need to hit it with a 3lb sledge hammer. You need to hit it pretty hard. It is corroded to the hub. You could do other damage but this is the only way to get it off. The whole thing is pretty sturdy and I have never broken anything doing this but there is no other choice.
2002dodge
01-12-2008, 11:51 PM
yeah..... I did that too... hitting with a sledge hammer. front and the back end of the drum. Correct me if I wrong. If the drum is not corroded to the hub once you take the rim (tire) off, the brake drum should just come straight out right?
Rick99
01-13-2008, 08:21 AM
Another possibility is that the hub is rusted to the drum, in which case a good soak with rust penetrant would help. (Just remember you have to replace your brake shoes if you get oil all over them.)
Spray PB Blaster or the like in next to the studs. Repeat a couple of times over the course a few hours. It will eventually soak in and loosen things enough that the BFH will work. When you reassemble, use molybdenum grease to coat the hub where it contacts the drum to preven this from happening again.
XDGT03
01-13-2008, 10:18 AM
Yes, the drum should come straight off. Yes to the PB Blaster too. Let it soak for a while. The drum gets corroded mostly around the center hub ring. Amazingly it takes very little corrosion to make it so you almost can't get the drum off. PB Blaster will work.
I usually just use brake grease (I don't think this is molybdenum) but either will work. Be careful not to use too much. Whether is it the front or the rears, the bulk of the brake assembly is held tight and in place by the wheel being put on by the lugs. If there is too much grease then the wheel will not seat all the parts flat and the wheel can loosen over a few miles. This is a very dangerous situation. Just be sure to use the grease sparingly.
Rick99
01-13-2008, 01:31 PM
In the "stupid stuff" category, make sure you don't have the parking brake applied.
ycats
01-14-2008, 08:37 AM
Any suggestions or step-by-steps on how to replace a leaking brake cylinder from the left-rear drum?
jfoust
01-14-2008, 09:30 AM
In the "stupid stuff" category, make sure you don't have the parking brake applied.
Haha! Yes. I just did the brakes on my Accord last week and couldn't figure out why in the world the drums were soooo difficult to get off. After 20 minutes of messing with it, I looked in the car and saw the parking brake was on. They slid right off once I corrected that!
Rick99
01-14-2008, 10:50 AM
Any suggestions or step-by-steps on how to replace a leaking brake cylinder from the left-rear drum?
Well, it's pretty simple once you have the brake shoes and hardware removed. If you don't have a manual (even a Haynes or the like), you should probably invest in one-- it'll be the best $15 you spent.
Also, it is normal practice to replace both cylinders at the same time since the other one may be rusted and is also likely close to failure. If the cylinder has been leaking, your brake shoes are likely contaminated as well meaning that a full brake job on both sides is probably in order. (not that expensive if you DIY, so if you're going to mess with it, you might as well)
Once you have the shoes removed, unbolt the wheel cylinders and disconnect the metal brake line from the cylinder (don't bend it out of the way, since that could damage it). Either plug the brake line so your system doesn't drain, or work quickly to put the new cylinder in place before much brake fluid leaks out. Use a hammer to tap the top of each end of the cylinder alternately to work it out of the backing plate, insert the new cylinder, slightly tighten the brake line so the leaking stops. Bolt it in, finish tightening the brake line (not too much), repeat on both sides making sure the master cylinder doesn't go dry, reassemble the shoes and other hardware, put the drums back on and bleed both sides.
ycats
01-14-2008, 11:02 AM
I already have the manual.............changed the cyclinder on the other side a couple of years ago (father-in-law did it).
va2gwy
01-14-2008, 08:37 PM
to pull off the drum it's very easy... look almost in the center of the drum between the studs.. you will find a threaded hole. Just put a screw in each hole and the drum should remove... about the drum, make sure to have it machined to removed the ridge on the drum... been there done that ... good luck !
ycats
01-15-2008, 08:10 AM
I took a hammer to several times and it broke loose for me to slide it off...........just a lot of brake dust built up, so I sprayed it with brake cleaner.
