Towing Capacity Differences?

[davidkibler]

I have a class III hitch on my 07' 1500 (w/ HEMI) and my hitch says the max trailer weight is 5000 lbs (10,000 distributed). What exactly is the difference between the two? 5000 lbs seems a little light. I can't find a class IV hitch around here, and when I asked the parts department at dealer, they looked at me like I was retarded. Dodge.com/towing states my truck is good to go to 8600 lbs. I have nothing in mind to tow as of now... just want to know in case a friend needs help or I find that boat I've been looking for. Can someone point me in the right direction?

[me1magoo]

Standard hitch is just that, a receiver with a ball in it and a trailer hitched to just the ball and away you go (with chains and wires of course). Weight Distributing is when you have some sort of mechanism (bars usually) that pull up at the rear and push the front of the hitch down by levering against the trailer tongue thereby forcing some of the hitch weight onto the front axle of the truck. Example weights (just examples of the theory, not real numbers from any particular trailer)-same trailer, same weight, same loading, different hitch set up-
Standard-
Truck Empty= Front axle 3500 lbs Rear Axle 2500 lbs
Trailer loaded= Total 5000 lbs w/ 4500 on axles and 500 on hitch pin (ball)
Truck hitched with standard hitch= Front axle 3200 lbs Rear axle 3300 lbs
You will notice that the front axle weight reduced because of leverage behind the rear axle and that weight in addition to the trailer tongue weight was added to the rear axle.
Truck hitched with weight distributing hitch= Front axle 3550 Rear axle 2950
Now you see that some of the trailer hitch weight was pushed up to the front axle by leverage and the remaining hitch weight was absorbed by the truck's rear axle.
The reason the hitch can handle more trailer weight with a weight distributing hitch is mostly because of the reduced downpressure (hitch weight) just hanging on the end of the receiver (ball point) and instead is pressed into and up against the hitch itself. This makes for a more stable connection and less "dead load" on the bolts and hitch. You can add a weight distributing set up to most trailers that have an A-Frame style tongue (almost all tongue pulls) with a set of clamp on plates that the bars and chains attach to and can buy a nice set up at any good trailer or camper place. Yes you can take an 8500 lbs boat trailer with a standard hitch and hook it up to your truck using a good weight distributing set up and class III hitch and pull it, the issue will be whether you actually have enough GVWR to add all of the hitch weight even spreading it out over both axles. An 8500 lbs tongue pull trailer will have 850-1100 or so lbs of tongue weight. Add that to passengers, fuel and any cargo in the bed and you may be at the max total gross weight of your truck.

[KB112]

Check our classifieds, time to time you'll see guys selling their stock hitches. These are rated a Class IV. I know Fastgraphite04 just installed a rollpan and was selling his rear bumper and hitch also I believe. I'm sure its an arm and a leg from the dealer. The dealer will usually just sell the bolt on hitch receiver, where the stock one is welded onto the rear bumper tube and is one solid unit.

KB

[davidkibler]

Standard hitch is just that, a receiver with a ball in it and a trailer hitched to just the ball and away you go (with chains and wires of course). Weight Distributing is when you have some sort of mechanism (bars usually) that pull up at the rear and push the front of the hitch down by levering against the trailer tongue thereby forcing some of the hitch weight onto the front axle of the truck. Example weights (just examples of the theory, not real numbers from any particular trailer)-same trailer, same weight, same loading, different hitch set up-
Standard-
Truck Empty= Front axle 3500 lbs Rear Axle 2500 lbs
Trailer loaded= Total 5000 lbs w/ 4500 on axles and 500 on hitch pin (ball)
Truck hitched with standard hitch= Front axle 3200 lbs Rear axle 3300 lbs
You will notice that the front axle weight reduced because of leverage behind the rear axle and that weight in addition to the trailer tongue weight was added to the rear axle.
Truck hitched with weight distributing hitch= Front axle 3550 Rear axle 2950
Now you see that some of the trailer hitch weight was pushed up to the front axle by leverage and the remaining hitch weight was absorbed by the truck's rear axle.
The reason the hitch can handle more trailer weight with a weight distributing hitch is mostly because of the reduced downpressure (hitch weight) just hanging on the end of the receiver (ball point) and instead is pressed into and up against the hitch itself. This makes for a more stable connection and less "dead load" on the bolts and hitch. You can add a weight distributing set up to most trailers that have an A-Frame style tongue (almost all tongue pulls) with a set of clamp on plates that the bars and chains attach to and can buy a nice set up at any good trailer or camper place. Yes you can take an 8500 lbs boat trailer with a standard hitch and hook it up to your truck using a good weight distributing set up and class III hitch and pull it, the issue will be whether you actually have enough GVWR to add all of the hitch weight even spreading it out over both axles. An 8500 lbs tongue pull trailer will have 850-1100 or so lbs of tongue weight. Add that to passengers, fuel and any cargo in the bed and you may be at the max total gross weight of your truck.


Where does a weight distributing hitch hook up to my truck besides the ball? Is all the equipment supplied via the trailer or via the towing vehicle?

Thanks again for the help!
-David

[squat]

You if it's a class III hitch you don't have the tow package, if you do end up towing a lot make sure you get an extra trans cooler.

[wbrown609]

I bought my 07 without the tow package and have since added the hitch and wiring harness. When looking at trucks with the towing package, I think they only had the hitch, wiring harness and 750 amp battery compared to just the 600 amp in my truck. There was no mention about auxilary trans cooler. Did the towing package on 07s have anything other than hitch, harness, and stronger battery?

[squat]

If you go to build one (you can still build the 07s) and look up the tow package it says this:

Trailer Tow Group

$335
Package includes >>

* 750-Ampere Maintenance-Free Battery
* Heavy Duty Engine Cooling
* Class IV Receiver Hitch
* 7-Pin Wiring Harness

Someone that knows better can correct me but the engine cooling is extra cooling for the trans and the engine since they both get worked while towing. I think when I ordered my 06 they had a separate trans cooler listed so it might just be clerical laziness, they eliminated the trans cooler (but why?), or maybe they use one unit for extra cooling on both the trans and engine.

[davidkibler]

I'm pretty certain that if you pop the hood and on the 07' HEMIs, you'll find three separate radiators. One is the radiator, one is the transmission cooler, and the other not certain... likely an oil cooler or evaporator. That gives me something to do tomorrow...tracing out hoses.

[07PW108]

Where does a weight distributing hitch hook up to my truck besides the ball? Is all the equipment supplied via the trailer or via the towing vehicle?


The hitch connects to the truck at the receiver but has some extra hardware besides just the ball. There are some kind of bars or rods that will extend back from the hitch to the trailer that will be connected by a chain to distribute the weight of the tongue. There are several manufacturers of WD hitches. I have a Blue Ox, Reese makes a popular WD hitch too.

Check these links:
http://www.blueox.us/Hitches/hitches.htm

http://www.reeseprod.com/

[mojoman]

I have an 06 w/ the tow package and my hitch is a class IV hitch.

[shouri z]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge-Ram-02-07-class-3-hitch-stock-towing-package_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33653QQihZ005QQ itemZ150202993532QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

thats the factory hitch right? the factory hitches are class IV not III correct? i have an aftermarket hitch and its starting to rust and looks like poo so its time to find a stock one either in a u-pull or ebay.

[JeffB2002]

www.equalizerhitch.com

Best out there with Load distribution and sway control. Worth the $$$

[shouri z]

just bought one of those, its amazing.

[davidkibler]

So basically, instead of the hitch ball taking all the weight, it addes a couple of arms. However, the only place it physcially connects to the vehicle is at the receiver. I just have alot of trouble seeing how that affects the weight on the axle. I seems all the weight is still at the hitch. Maybe I"m just not looking at it right. Does anyone have pictures of one hooked up?

[JeffB2002]

Think of it like a wheel barrel. When you lift up on the arms you transfer the weight in the wheel barrel towards the front. It's the same concept the the load distribution hitches. If you go to the website listed above, they have a good illustration explaining it.

Here you go.... http://www.equalizerhitch.com/productinfo/video.php

[me1magoo]

The bars use leverage to push the hitch head that is attached to the receiver down in the front and forward, lifting the hitch actually using leverage from the tongue of the trailer by pulling on the bars which are attached to the trailer frame by chains (allowing movement while turning). You will definitely need an additional trans cooler if you don't have one and a trans temp gauge so you know if you are pushing it too hard. The engine will pull the load, the transmission will cook itself trying to get the power to the ground.

[reindeerman]

I’m with JeffB2002 on this. I’ve been running an equalizer brand hitch for several years now. It all fits in to the receiver hitch on the truck. No modification to the truck end required.

Once you have one you will never be without again for a bumper pull. Night and Day difference.

[reindeerman]

Here is a pic of my old truck and trailer hitched up. I am using the same hitch on my newer truck and trailer.

[JeffB2002]

Little story about this hitch. Last summer while coming home from one camping trip I lost one of the TT tires. The trailer NEVER moved from behind my truck. The only way I knew something happened was the sudden thud and vibration and the chunks of tire that were flying out from the TT. I believe that if I did not have this hitch, the trailer would have started swaying and I could have lost it.

[ldgregory]

I'm pretty certain that if you pop the hood and on the 07' HEMIs, you'll find three separate radiators. One is the radiator, one is the transmission cooler, and the other not certain... likely an oil cooler or evaporator. That gives me something to do tomorrow...tracing out hoses.

A pic of my front end showing which radiator belongs to what.


http://trucks.pcwize.com/temp/radiators.jpg

[duso02]

Davidkibler----If I read your original post right, you have a stock Class III hitch, which is just the stock bumper with a hole for a ball. That is fine if you never plan to do any heavy towing (under 5K lbs.) If you want to tow more you need a Class IV mounted underneath bolted to the frame with the 2" square receiver sticking out from under the bumper. I would suggest this regardless of how much you will tow just for safety, ease, and flexibility. Since towing is new to you, just keep it simple and safe.

[unisentient]

Hi, relative newby here too.
I bought a used '04 1500 4.7 auto. QCSB 4x4 , 3:92 with a factory tow-pkg. I never got any papers with it, and i've asked dealers about the official tow capacity, and i have not yet got a straight answer.
I assume the factory hitch is class 4. That automatically puts it up around 7500 or more right? Is that without a weight-distributing hitch?
Does anyone else have the same model and have gone thru all this?
I haul a tandem dumper and a cartrailer sometimes with farm machinery, and i want to be legal and safe.
Sure hope y'all can help me out with this. Thanks!

[Webtiger02]

Here ya go:
SLT
2004 dodge ram 1500 pickup 1500 SLT, QUAD CAB, 4WD, 6.25 FT Bed, 5-Speed Automatic Transmission, 4.7L Magnum(R) V8 Engine:

With 3.92 Axle Ratio Axle Ratio [i] You Can Tow 6000 lbs
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) [i] = 6650 lbs
Payload [i] = 1314 lbs
Curb Weight [i] = 5336 lbs
Curb Weight Front/Rear = 3093 lbs/3093 lbs
GAWR Front/Rear [i] = 3900 lbs/3900 lbs
Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) [i] = 11500 lbs



With 3.55 Axle Ratio Axle Ratio [i] You Can Tow 6050 lbs
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) [i] = 6650 lbs
Payload [i] = 1353 lbs
Curb Weight [i] = 5297 lbs
Curb Weight Front/Rear = 3077 lbs/3077 lbs
GAWR Front/Rear [i] = 3900 lbs/3900 lbs
Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) [i] = 11500 lbs



With 3.92 Axle Ratio Axle Ratio [i] You Can Tow 7000 lbs
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) [i] = 6650 lbs
Payload [i] = 1294 lbs
Curb Weight [i] = 5356 lbs
Curb Weight Front/Rear = 3100 lbs/3100 lbs
GAWR Front/Rear [i] = 3900 lbs/3900 lbs
Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) [i] = 12500 lbs



With 3.92 Axle Ratio Axle Ratio [i] You Can Tow 7050 lbs
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) [i] = 6650 lbs
Payload [i] = 1353 lbs
Curb Weight [i] = 5297 lbs
Curb Weight Front/Rear = 3077 lbs/3077 lbs
GAWR Front/Rear [i] = 3900 lbs/3900 lbs
Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) [i] = 12500 lbs

ST
2004 dodge ram 1500 pickup 1500 ST, QUAD CAB, 4WD, 6.25 FT Bed, 5-Speed Automatic Transmission, 4.7L Magnum(R) V8 Engine:

With 3.55 Axle Ratio Axle Ratio [i] You Can Tow 6100 lbs
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) [i] = 6650 lbs
Payload [i] = 1397 lbs
Curb Weight [i] = 5253 lbs
Curb Weight Front/Rear = 3040 lbs/3040 lbs
GAWR Front/Rear [i] = 3900 lbs/3900 lbs
Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) [i] = 11500 lbs

http://www-5.dodge.com/towing5/D/home.html

With 3.92 Axle Ratio Axle Ratio [i] You Can Tow 7100 lbs
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) [i] = 6650 lbs
Payload [i] = 1397 lbs
Curb Weight [i] = 5253 lbs
Curb Weight Front/Rear = 3040 lbs/3040 lbs
GAWR Front/Rear [i] = 3900 lbs/3900 lbs
Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) [i] = 12500 lbs

[JeffB2002]

You showed more than one towing limit for the same axle ratio, but I cannot see the difference as to which is which.

Here is the towing guide for your year. Look it up. It all depends on if you have 17's or 20's, I am assuming you have 20's. Looks like your towing capacity is 6000lbs for your truck. If you add a WD hitch, your towing capacity is still 6000lbs. You should not tow above that. Let me know if you have any other questions.

[unisentient]

Thanks Webtiger!
This was a great start, combined with the trailer-towing site !
It can sure get complex when i want the max possible....but who doesnt?
My main thing was to be legal and within stated limits of the truck.
The most striking variation was that with 20" wheels, you can only tow 6000#,but with 17" it's 7000#. Either way, to pull that legally, i'd have to empty out my tools and bedslider, remove the topper and ride solo every time i put 3 tons of sand in my dumper...in order to stay under the 12,500 combo. Remember to deduct, from your payload figure, the 10-15% value weight/pressure on your hitch too!
I was already moaning about giving up my alloy 20's for summer and imagining the restrictive use of only 17's for all functions.
I thought the issue was about the possible greater metal-flex in the 20's. so........
I went to my tire dealer, and he said it's more about the stock 20" tires which are basically passenger type ...and if you put on a set of 8-10ply LT's you could tow 7000 or more, and safer.
Still, Dodge doesnt state that that's ok!!! So whaddaya do?
Nor do they state that you can come up to the tow rate of the hemi 1500 by going to 4:10 or 4:56 gears. I feel that it's quite alright technically. You should have the choice of mechanically adjusting your preferences for economy and tow-power, and have it acknowledged by the manufacturer, or refuted with hard facts.
Love to hear some more comments on this........

[JeffB2002]

You are correct, by changing components like gears and tires you can technically increase your towing capacity, BUT, god forbid you get into an accident with a trailer on and one of the first things they will look at is if you were towing above your capacity. It will not matter that you have upgraded equipment, they will be looking at what the manufacturer states as a capacity. All of the upgrades just makes towing your capacity easier and possibly safer, but again, the capacity from the manufacturer is what they will look at. Never push the limits...all it takes is a split second to kill yourself and someone else on the road.

[Laetus_Lupus]

To simplify the weight distributing hitch description: OK in a standard hitch all the trailer tongue weight is on the hitch at the back of the truck, right. Well, in a distributing hitch, the hitch reciever assembly is actually connected to the truck not only in the back but in the middle as well so the weight of the trailer tongue is shifted forwards and more evenly distributed to all four wheels of the tow vehicle. Hope this helps, I'm no expert so pipe in if this is totally wack.

[Webtiger02]

You showed more than one towing limit for the same axle ratio, but I cannot see the difference as to which is which.

Here is the towing guide for your year. Look it up. It all depends on if you have 17's or 20's, I am assuming you have 20's. Looks like your towing capacity is 6000lbs for your truck. If you add a WD hitch, your towing capacity is still 6000lbs. You should not tow above that. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Jeff;
I copied that directly off of Dodge.com/towing for the '04 that unisentient has if you go to that site and configure a Ram you'll get that variation.
I suspect, although I can't prove it, that the differences are in the rim/tire size....

[unisentient]

You are correct, by changing components like gears and tires you can technically increase your towing capacity, BUT, god forbid you get into an accident with a trailer on and one of the first things they will look at is if you were towing above your capacity. It will not matter that you have upgraded equipment, they will be looking at what the manufacturer states as a capacity. All of the upgrades just makes towing your capacity easier and possibly safer, but again, the capacity from the manufacturer is what they will look at. Never push the limits...all it takes is a split second to kill yourself and someone else on the road.

Not to worry. I'm all for maximum RATED capacity , when i need it , but want super-safe and stable in all ways. I have experience with WD hitches, and actually almost bought a used Hensley last year when i was going to export a tractor myself.

Meanwhile, i've confirmed that the book states that an '04 1500 4.7qcsb 4x4 can tow 7100, given all other factors are in order.
Can ANYONE tell me their experience (or even hearsay) with the self-adjusting balancing discs which are mounted between the rim and the mounting plate?

[unisentient]

Not to worry. I'm all for maximum RATED capacity , when i need it , but want super-safe and stable in all ways. I have experience with WD hitches, and actually almost bought a used Hensley last year when i was going to export a tractor myself.

Meanwhile, i've confirmed that the book states that an '04 1500 4.7qcsb 4x4 can tow 7100, given all other factors are in order.
Can ANYONE tell me their experience (or even hearsay) with the self-adjusting balancing discs which are mounted between the rim and the mounting plate?

( Quoting myself.)..........
I should have added that yes, it's with the 17"rims, and 6100 with the 20"s.and 3:92 gears.

[JeffB2002]

To simplify the weight distributing hitch description: OK in a standard hitch all the trailer tongue weight is on the hitch at the back of the truck, right. Well, in a distributing hitch, the hitch reciever assembly is actually connected to the truck not only in the back but in the middle as well so the weight of the trailer tongue is shifted forwards and more evenly distributed to all four wheels of the tow vehicle. Hope this helps, I'm no expert so pipe in if this is totally wack.
The WD hitch still uses the 2" receiver thatis attached to the truck. What it uses is a different ball than what you are used to seeing. There is also a component that is usually attached to the trailer as well. Then there are either solid bars that sit on L brackets or the solid bars are held up with chains. What happens is if you think of when you lift a wheel barrel you are transferring the weight to the front wheel. Same basic principle here. when you lift the bars that are connected to the WD hitch, you are transferring more of the weight forward on the truck, thus distributing the weight to both axles of the truck and not just the rear one. Make sense or did I now confuse you more.....LOL

[JeffB2002]

Not to worry. I'm all for maximum RATED capacity , when i need it , but want super-safe and stable in all ways. I have experience with WD hitches, and actually almost bought a used Hensley last year when i was going to export a tractor myself.

Meanwhile, i've confirmed that the book states that an '04 1500 4.7qcsb 4x4 can tow 7100, given all other factors are in order.
Can ANYONE tell me their experience (or even hearsay) with the self-adjusting balancing discs which are mounted between the rim and the mounting plate?
Well.....I don't trust a product that "says" that it will balance your wheels. I am really old school on that. Taking it down to a reputable tire shop and having them high speed balance the tire and if it cannot be balanced like that, then getting a new tire and or wheel would be in order. That's just my .02, I have not heard anything good or bad about those disks.