I have a 2000 plymouth voyager with 3.0 engine. The other day as my wife was driving it, the engine stalled. You could always get it to start again, but it would die if the RPM were allowed to drop near idle. Now it will not even start. Spark & fuel pressure are fine.
There are no codes detected by my OBDII scanner, but I get a code 23 (and 55 - obviously not important) when I use the odometer to get codes (ignition in acc position, trip & reset held 5 seconds, then trip pushed afterwards).
Some other years of dodge cars indicate that a code 23 is an intake air temp sensor. I haven't found anything other than the standard obdII codes for this model year.
Now, I'm not sure if this van has an intake air temp sensor, and if it does, it may be combined with the MAP. If so, how do I test it/them? Also, it was rather warm when the car would still run then die, now it's about 40 degrees. This leads me to believe it may be a temp sensor problem.
I'm open to all ideas, and I've also read on this forum that a code 23 may even be input/output speed sensors. Since it won't start even while sitting, I'm disinclined to go this direction. Trans hasn't had any recent problems. All help would be appreciated. Thanks.
StormTrooper03
11-03-2007, 12:27 PM
To answer your topic question, Not me.
vabear
11-03-2007, 02:37 PM
I had a similar problem with my '98 Neon and it was the Crankshaft Position Sensor. On my car I could not get codes on a cold engine, she would only code when the engine was hot. If you can get her to an Auto Zone, they will code for free.
jrowe
11-03-2007, 08:20 PM
Well. I can pull codes. I have a scanner. There are no codes stored, except by doing it the old manual way through the odometer. Also, I can't get it to start, so I can't get it hot either.
vipergg
11-03-2007, 08:25 PM
Sure its a 23 ??? It is a input air sensor but that is only valid for the 2.4 liter 4 cylinder model per factory manual . Not sure what the problem is . this motor does have a timing belt it could have either snapped or slipped a couple teeth . How many miles on it and has the belt ever been replaced ? Normally it should be replaced every 80000 miles or so . Not a cheap proposition if it that , if you plan on keeping the van and it is the belt have them change the water pump while they are in there .
jrowe
11-04-2007, 06:31 PM
Just an update - upon further review, I'm getting no spark. I am baffled as to why not. I pulled the plug going to the coil.
I followed the testing procedures outlined in the forum for testing the ASD relay & crankshaft position sensor. I get a brief flash of power to the coil when the key is turned to the "on" position. Then when I crank it over, I get continuous power to the coil. So, it appears I'm getting power to the coil, but no spark from it. Also, I've replaced the coil to fix it to no avail. If it were the crankshaft position sensor, I'd think I wouldn't get power to the coil.
What should I look at next, and how do I test just the crankshaft position sensor?
TomQuick
11-04-2007, 10:14 PM
I answered in your other thread as well, but I'll answer here too. I don't know any specifics about the Caravan, but in general, a coil works as follows: Power is introduced to the primary windings, and the windings "saturate" which basically means that they build up a good magnetic field. Once the field is built up, the power to the coils primary windings is interrupted, which causes the magnetic field to collapse quickly. This quick collapse of the magnetic field which is also surrounding the secondary windings, induces a large voltage in the secondary windings, and this gives you your spark. With that in mind, in order for the coil to work properly, when the engine is being cranked, either the coil ground, or the coil positive voltage has to be intermittent. If they are both constant while cranking the engine, then there is a problem somewhere. You probably need a wiring diagram to determine exactly how the Crank sensor does it's job, but I would guess that the crank sensor is supposed to interrupt either the coil positive voltage, or the coil ground. If you checked for spark at the coil (not at the cap) and got none, and you know that the coil is good, then it has to be a problem with a fusible link, fuse, sensor, or in the wiring.
donald7150
11-04-2007, 11:42 PM
I didnt know you could read codes through the odometer on a 2000. I thought you could only do cluster diagnostics through it.
AS far as i know you couldn't read codes on the odometer until the new RS caravans came out in 2001
WodgeVan
05-09-2008, 10:17 PM
Same thing happened to me, several times, before I've read somewhere in the internet, I have a 95 caravan, check air filter, and the small filter inside the filter housing, clean it or replace, check PCV , clean or replace. I did all of that, the stalling stopped. Hope it helps