this might get me kicked out haha but why dodge. looking into getting a new truck and am getting more and more attracted to the power and torque disel has to offer. they are just bad ass and i was wondering what does dodge offer that others dont? also what kind of work comes with getting a dodge? GM has bad injectors is what i have been told...anything like that with dodge?
Ram3500Dually
10-11-2007, 01:35 PM
6 in a row makes them go. Look at all big trucks and you will see straight 6's and straight 8's in them, not V8's. There is a reason the big trucks stay with the inlines and I never understood why Ford and GM figured that V8's were the way to go in diesel applications.
thor_rider2102
10-11-2007, 02:48 PM
the straight six is very reliable i know and just beefy as all hell. Your getting a good motor yes, but is there a problem with injectors in dodges. What is the first year that you could start off with and having power/reliability? what are the trannys like in dodge? bullet proof? what about if you exhaust and intake on it? Chip?
Clunk
10-12-2007, 08:59 AM
Personally, I'm disapointed in the whole gang of diesel pickup trucks.
None have been as reliable as the gassers of the 70's & 80's.
Few people have the desire to change the troublesome items to make a diesel motor/ trans. reliable and the MFG's only make things more troublesome.
Crap, now my head hurts.
Speedracer3456
10-29-2007, 08:30 PM
Dad's been running Dodge Cummins since 1990, and yes, there are some durability issues. The early transmissions wouldn't hold up to the torque under load, rear differentials wear quicker, etc. The early automatics were WAY too underbuilt. I believe Dodge has recitified the situation with the current crop of transmissions and differentials, but when you have 600+ lb-ft of torque, it's all about how you drive it. If your foot is in it, it will wear faster, etc. There are some great aftermarket companies for drivetrains out there who build some pretty bulletproof stuff. As far as the engines go, dad ran 750,000 on a '92 12 valve. I'm planning on running mine for many years to come.
Clunk
10-29-2007, 09:16 PM
I like your attitude Speedracer3456 :cheers: :cool:
Daytrepper
10-31-2007, 03:01 AM
I'll vouch for the Cummins. Got a '93 Ram, almost 200K, engine has never been touched. Ive done brakes, ball joints, U-joints, and a new starter. Other than that, nothing. Shes been worked hard for about half of her life, pulling cars, camper trailers, etc. Its just a daily driver now. 23 MPG whether its loaded or not. No oil use, not even an oil leak yet. Still on the original clutch, and 5 speed Getrag, which seems bulletproof.
I dont know much about the newer engines (02+), but Ive seen the same reliability from the second gens (94-01) engines.
Ill take a Cummins any day over a Powerstroke, or Duramax, because of the V8 setup, and glow plugs, head gasket problems, etc, that are rampant with them. I have a fleet of Fords at work and am quite familiar with the frequent problems with the 7.3L, and especially the 6.0L Ford engines. Next time I have to replace one of the fleet trucks, it WONT be a Ford. I wont touch a Duramax, simply because of GM's junk diesel reputation-- I have a diesel Cutlass and a few friends bitching about the Duramax that will back me up on this.
On the downside, I agree the automatic trannies were weak in the earlier years-- so I bought a stick-- and thats what I would recommend now. Definitely a good choice.
I would rather be Cummin' then Strokin', lol... I am looking to replace the '93 Ram with a newer 3500 Dually, with a manual trans. I know Ill get the same results.
Dormaar
11-05-2007, 07:31 PM
I've been driving tractor-trailer for quite along time now and as was said in a previous reply, best thing for the industry is the straight 6. Cummins has been making the same engines years before Dodge signed up with them, so the Cummins technology is at the peak of the game. Unfortantly, in order to make a bigger buck in the light duty aspect, some qualitity is comprimised for cheaper "Jobber" parts, every single manufacture is quilty of this. Even though automatics have a higher tow rating now a days, I still don't trust them, in a manual you are either in gear or out of gear, there is no pumps, bands, discs, cumputers, etc. All in all, if you want an over sized show rig to show off to your friends on you are trying to compinsate for certin anatomy issues, buy a GM or Ford, jack it up, race around town, and buy a new in 2 or 3 years when it craps out on ya. Or buy a Dodge, live with it's minor car like issues and drive it like a semi, never put your foot to the metal unless your climbing a hill or passing, a semi that is well taken care of, driven properly, regular servicing get up to (and more) 2 million km's, easly. No different then a pickup.
But this is all just my opinion, take as you may.
likwit
11-17-2007, 10:30 PM
I don't mean to hijack this thread or anything, but it is pretty on topic. What should I look out for when buying a used Cummins?
Ram3500Dually
11-17-2007, 11:09 PM
2nd gen or 3rd gen?
likwit
11-18-2007, 01:45 PM
2nd
Clunk
11-18-2007, 07:01 PM
Look at the drivers side/front corner for a two digit number cast on the block and avoid one with a 53 number...they are suspectable to cracking.
Here's more.....The Son of The New Guy Info!!!
Welcome to the site ,
Your Dodge/Cummins has fuel milage and power capabilities far beyond a basic gasser but it isn't gas-n-go like a gasser either...it's a bit involved but not difficult to manage.
Obtain a repair manual at your favorite auto parts store so you can get up quick on your truck. You also need gauges to get info from your truck but more on that later..
Your 24 valver has a Lift Pump that takes fuel from the fuel tank and delivers it to your Injector Pump(VP44). This VP44 is the weak link and because it's so expensive, it deserves extra consideration. For years the guys here have been trying different things to get the VP44 to live and through basic R&D, they've discovered a few things that help most and are running up the miles.
Fuel lubes and cools the VP44 and we watch that with the Lift Pump fuel pressure. We generally like to see 13-15psi idle, 12-13psi cruising hwy speed and no less the 5-7 psi at wide open throttle(WOT).
A fuel pressure test gauge available at your favorite auto parts store, connected by pressure line to the Schrader Valve on your injector pump and installed in the cabwill get you lift pump fuel pressure to watch. Check my picture gallery.
Diesel fuel has very little if any lubricating abilities so fuel treatments like Power Service, Howes, Lucas and Stanadyne add lubrication to the fuel. I use the MFG's recommend on dosages.
There is fuel returned to the fuel tank from the fuel system and because some of it comes from a passage in the cylinder head of the motor, it's hot. This is fine in the winter because diesel fuel can gel in very cold temperatures BUT in the summer, it can get hot enough that it won't cool electrical components in the VP44. Most folks are keeping their fuel tank 1/2 full or better. We're currently looking for an end all fuel cooler that does not restrict flow or pressure.
Many folks have found that they had no lift pump pressure after they install a gauge or change the fuel filter so be ready for that.
Type "lift pump" in the search box for lots of info.
