I got the #'s off the edelbrock 4bbl carb 1407 2364
i dont know what the last 4 #s are for but the first ones say it is a 750 CFM
which i know is too big for a 318
it is running very rich all I smell is gas when its running. I havnt got it ion the road yewt still a little more work to do. paint and liner spray the interior and bed, then the most expensive rims and tires.
So I need to know how to get it running a little better, the carb had 2 screws on the front I havnt adjusted because i dont know what does what then the one screw looks like a square by the springs i think that is the accl. screw so what do i do to adjust. I have messaged bherder but he hasnt got back to me about the HEI conversion I just would like to know what plug wire I cut off of what car?
and anyone know how to rig up a kick down plate for the carb? its an auto so it has a kick down thanks again guys.\
Kyle
Speed Dragon
07-26-2007, 11:47 PM
Edelbrock sells kickdown linkage setups for those.
The screws in the front are the idle mixture screws, in richens and out leans it. Usually around 2-4 turns out is where they idle best. You may need to either A) buy a prpoer sized carb, like a 500-650 cfm, or B) swap out the metering rods for leaner ones. The rod swap is easily done w/o removing the carb.
bherder
07-27-2007, 12:17 AM
I got the #'s off the edelbrock 4bbl carb 1407 2364
i dont know what the last 4 #s are for but the first ones say it is a 750 CFM
which i know is too big for a 318
it is running very rich all I smell is gas when its running. I havnt got it ion the road yewt still a little more work to do. paint and liner spray the interior and bed, then the most expensive rims and tires.
So I need to know how to get it running a little better, the carb had 2 screws on the front I havnt adjusted because i dont know what does what then the one screw looks like a square by the springs i think that is the accl. screw so what do i do to adjust. I have messaged bherder but he hasnt got back to me about the HEI conversion
Shit, dude.... SORRY about that.... I got your PM and got busy/cranking and forgot to PM ya back.... .... you don't NEED to buy/get the actual 'plug' for the GM HEI module... Three of the four connections are regular 1/4" spade connections. There is the one that's a tad smaller, but a 1/4" connector will fit fine. Just make sure you squish the female connector a tad so it will be a tight fit on it. AND MAKE SURE you shrink-tube all the connectors, just to make sure that nothing comes in contact with anything else, and to keep the crud out. A little blob of di-electric grease in the connectors, is even better insurance :D
A 750 cfm carb, is WAY too much for a stock 318... Do as Speed says for the idle screws. You're still going to have to change the carb out, there is no way you'll ever get it 'right' with that big of carb.....
I just would like to know what plug wire I cut off of what car?
Parson4
07-27-2007, 12:41 AM
Hey Bruce, what is the URL of that post where you talked about the HEI conversion, cause that is my next project......HUH ????
Oppppppppps I finded it RITE CHERE (http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119687&highlight=HEI+conversion)
Stuckey
07-27-2007, 07:04 AM
I still dont know what the module came off of and the plug?
Stuckey
07-27-2007, 07:07 AM
in picture A on the old thread, that parson put up
thanks a lot guys this should make her run a lot better I think i will look into swapping out the metering rods, the funds wont let me get a carb thats why i bought the truck, my 79 needed work and this one was almost done so i bought this for the project, i guess thats what happens whne you dont do research
thanks
so i tighten the screws right down and when i turn them out it makes it leaner or richer?
DiverDwnPowrRam
07-27-2007, 07:29 AM
I got the #'s off the edelbrock 4bbl carb 1407 2364
i dont know what the last 4 #s are for but the first ones say it is a 750 CFM
which i know is too big for a 318
You guys are killing me!
Ok first off..the 318 is not too small for a rochester Q Jet...remember 318 diplomat cruisers had them they work well and GM 305s also had them...the reason..the superior design...the QJet acts just like a two barrel ( small two barrel at that..gets great gas mileage) until you put your foot into it and then you have all 750 or 800 CFM. Way fun!
Ok now for your numbers....1407 2364
which should read 170.....or 70
please reread them as these make no sense
get back with me on this....
Dodgevanman
07-27-2007, 09:02 AM
318 4bbl. engines used 360 type heads as well. A 750cfm carb. on a stock 318 with 2bbl. heads is overkill.
charlie1935
07-27-2007, 10:13 AM
I was under the impression that on a carb. with vacuum controlled secondaries properly set up that the secondaries will open no more than the engine can handle due to intake vacuum and velocity. :gr_patrio
sgillett
07-27-2007, 10:30 AM
In my experience if you smell gas there is a problem with ether:
a too high float level setting, a leaking needle and seat or a sinking float.
Usually even if the jetting is way rich you wouldn't smell gas.
My $.02
Scott
DiverDwnPowrRam
07-27-2007, 01:03 PM
Nate...because of its unique design the QJet is very efficient for any application 289 and up.... The primaries are tiny as compared to most 4bl...smaller then the holley 22XX series and as Charlie has mentioned if you have it dialed in then you are not using the secondaries until you have the vacuum difference needed.
Stuckey
07-29-2007, 09:58 AM
the truck is at my parents i will be going there this week sometime
im sure the # are correct but i will check again maybe another plate with #'s on it?
i do need to take it to someone that knows a bit of the carb it may need to be set up
i havnt looked to hard at it, well i have but i dont knopw anything about it so... im alright with mechanics but the vaccum stuff and cab stuff is confusing still. still learning. thanks
Kyle
DiverDwnPowrRam
07-29-2007, 10:19 AM
Drivers side, right over secondary throttle and reading from bottom to top. There are a sequence of numbers also with these numbers are 4 more numbers designating an exact date. There are a few of us here that know how to properly rebuild the Q Jets...but keep in mind...rebuilding a carb is more then buying a carb kit and a six pack......
Stuckey
07-29-2007, 11:11 AM
ok thanks a lot i will look. the carb is relativley new it did sit for a few months but im hoping it doesnt need a rebuild/ anyway i will gedt those #s as soon as i can
Stuckey
07-29-2007, 12:49 PM
8867 are the numbers i found hope that helps
DiverDwnPowrRam
07-29-2007, 08:51 PM
Ahhhh you said new...is that new to you or a new Edelbrock Q Jet? Last of those were built in 2005. I still need you to check the 8 digit sequence again as it should be a 170xxxx or 70xxxx. Does it say Rochester on the side or does it say Carter. Carter actually made under license these carbs for a few years.
mlauk
07-29-2007, 09:31 PM
Here is some info on the Edelbrock 1407 from Summit Racing. The bottom of the page has 2 manuals for installation and setting up the metering rods.
guys...next time kick me...he clearly said edelbrock and I dumbed the thread up thinking Rochester. mlauk set you straight with the link. The edelbrock is a great carb replacement for the QJet...it is the exact same design but...it does not have all the restrictors that the mid to late 80s rochester had...anyway sorry to dumb up the thread but you should be good to go now.
AMP762
07-30-2007, 04:57 PM
guys...next time kick me...he clearly said edelbrock and I dumbed the thread up thinking Rochester. mlauk set you straight with the link. The edelbrock is a great carb replacement for the QJet...it is the exact same design but...it does not have all the restrictors that the mid to late 80s rochester had...anyway sorry to dumb up the thread but you should be good to go now.
Um,sure had me confused,but that ain't hard to do.
jakerboy
07-30-2007, 08:37 PM
Hello I thought that turning the screws in leaned it and out riches it
Speed Dragon
07-31-2007, 12:33 AM
Hello I thought that turning the screws in leaned it and out riches itThe idle mixture screws are basically adjustable air bleeds. They have a tapered needle point that fits into a tiny hole in the venturi wall. Turning it in will block this hole off and prevent any air from entering through said hole, thus effectively richening the mixture.