always changing front struts!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Dadzvan]

I have been changing my front struts about every 3-4 months. I have a lifetime warranty on them so the only cost is an alignment, but it's really getting to be a hassle. I do the work myself and have gotten pretty fast at it but I am getting tired of doing it. I bought the struts at Autozone. I cant believe that they are so inferior that I have to change them so often. I changed the struts in my wifes BMW a couple years ago and it still rides great. Could there be something else wrong? Can bad bearings in the strut tower be the problem? They seemed to be clean when I took them apart. Is there a way to put the struts back together wrong that might cause failure? Its funny, the right strut will start leaking and a couple weeks later, the left one. Its the same every time. When I take it in for an alignment, they never tell me I need additional parts(miracle!). I am thinking of going with a new complete strut assembly (strut, spring, everything) on both sides, a fresh start. Any ideas on this? I will be doing my 4th set of struts this weekend, in about a year. I dont want to do them again for a couple years! please help, thanks!

[RickMN]

Are you buying the private label brand? Those are considered economy struts and even though they have a lifetime warranty, as you can see, it's just not worth it. How many miles are on your vehicle? If you have really high mileage it's a good idea to change the strut mounts. Although I can't think of a reason offhand why that would cause leakage. I put KYB's in my cars and love them. I put the new Garbiels in my son's car and he loves the ride. FYI, both Gabriel and Monroe private label an economy version of their shocks for the chains. KYB does not.

[RickMN]

Oh, while you're at it, if you buy an alignment gauge from either Thexton or Tool Aid, you can get the struts back in almost dead-on from the way they came out. The Thexton gauges sit against the rotor and up against the stud. You center the bubble before you take the old ones out. Just remember to torque down the rotor with two lugs nuts before you take the reading. The Tool Aid gauge holds to the rotor with a magnet and has a bubble level in it. It works great unless you bump it while you're taking the old strut out. Then the reading is worthless (don't ask me how I know that).

[sgillett]

Hi RickMN,
Is there a bottom out bumper that lives at the top of the strut?
We have a '95 GC ES and now whenever we go over a big bump the front end bangs at full compression. If there is a bottom out bumper that has rotted away on my car that is causing my problem, maybe Dadzvan is missing the same piece and he is bottoming his struts and blowing the seals of his economy struts.
?????????
Scott

[RickMN]

Yes, there is a "jounce" bumper that installs under the pleated dust bellows.

[sgillett]

Thanks

[2000TC]

Dadzvan:

What kind of van do you have? Year, Miles, etc.

Somethng doesn't seem right. Are you sure the struts are actually failing?

Have you looked at the end links or the sway bar bushings? Those bushings will cause a great deal of creaking and rattling when they wear out.

[sgillett]

Hi Dadzvan,
Do the new struts come with a "jounce" (bottom out) bumper?
I wonder if you don't have them installed it may be allowing the shock to bottom out and causing the leaking.
My $.02
Scott

[RickMN]

Nope. Jounce bumpers do not come with the struts. Dealer or junkyard item.

[Dadzvan]

Hey all,
Thanks for your replies. I have been away from the computer for a few days, I'll try to answer all the questions. It's a 98 GC Sport with 160,000 miles. Outside of this problem it's in very good condition. I drive about 40-45 miles a day and its usually driven daily on the weekends. It has the jounce cushions that were mentioned, and they are Gabriel Ultra struts. I don't drive the van hard and the roads in Ga. don't have any potholes that would blow out a strut. Yes, I am sure they are bad, the fluid is leaking and the ride has deteriorated. I have done many strut jobs and have never run into this before. I bought the van used and this problem is beginning to wear on me. I changed the right side sway bar link after my first strut install started rattling again after a couple months. I "knew" it couldn't be the strut rattling because I just changed them recently. It was the strut! Would it be worth the $$$ to do a complete strut changeout ($170 each side) to start with all new parts? I would be willing to part with the $$$ if I won't have to do struts again for a while. Thanks again for your replies! Ken

[Dadzvan]

Oh, and yes, I changed the sway bar bushings twice. There is no creaking noise or rattling of any kind after changing the struts. It rides like new. Ken

[XDGT03]

I bought the KYB's over 2 years ago for my 98GC (140k now)and they are working great. If you have oil coming out then the strut is definitely bad.

Also, you probably have bad springs. If the springs are really bad it can cause the strut to be over worked. Replace with Eibach or H&R springs if they make them for the GC.

I would also replace the front swaybar bushings with poly ones instead of the rudder. They will last a long time. You can get them from most auto parts stores. They are model specific. I just got the poly ones for the rear (universal3/4") from Advanced Auto and they are fantastic. That along with the rear air shocks make the van handle like a car.

AND, definitely get the more expensive swaybar endlinks. These buggers wear out so quick. The premium ones last lots longer.

[kes1]

Probably doesn't apply, but I feel like I've got to ask. Are you using the proper tool to intall/remove the nut on top of the strut? Wgatever you do, DON'T grab the shaft with ANY tool as a little scratch during installation could lead to premature seal failure.