2.7 to 3.2/3.5 Swap Information

[Daytrepper]

Here's the lowdown on what is involved in swapping your Intrepid from a 2.7 to the 3.2 or 3.5 HO engine. This also applies to the Chrysler Concorde.

Engines:
You must match your year range with your engine. If you have a 1998-2001 Intrepid/Concorde, you will need a 1998-2001 3.2 or 3.5 engine. For 2002-2004 models, only the 3.5 Magnum or 3.5 HO can be used.

Engines must be complete as possible. They need to have the starter, alternator, a/c pump, power steering pump, a good engine wiring harness, upper plenum, and motor mount brackets. Just ask for a complete "drop out" when calling a boneyard.

The engines can come out of any LH model car, which includes Chrysler 300M, LHS, or Concorde. Intrepid ES, Concorde LXI, and Intrepid R/T are also good donors.

ECU/Transmission:

The 2.7 ECU will operate a 3.2/3.5 engine without problems. The 3.2/3.5 wiring harnesses will plug right into the 2.7 car and computer.

The transmission will also bolt right up. All LH models were equipped with the 42LE. You will gain a gear ratio advantage as well, because the 2.7 vehicles had a 3.89 ratio, and the 3.2/3.5 models had a 3.66 ratio.

Parts:

Here's what you need to connect a 3.2/3.5 into a 2.7 car. Everything is pretty much the same parts wise for 1998-2004, with the exception of a few parts. The 2002-2004 models have an IAT sensor in the air intake hose, whereas the 98-01's do not.

Throttle/Cruise Cables
Air intake to throttle body pipe
Oil Cooler Lines
Power Steering tube (pump to high pressure line)
Power steering reservoir
Power steering suction tube (reservoir to pump
Power steering reservoir bracket
Transmission dipstick tube
Transmission cooler lines
Belts
Upper/Lower Radiator hoses
Heater hoses
Torque converter bolts
Radiator (2.7 does not have oil cooler, 3.2/3.5 does)

You can get all this stuff used, or new from the Dodge dealer, they are relatively cheap, except the radiator. I would purchase the radiator at a radiator specialty shop to get the best price. You can retain the original 2.7 radiator, and install an aftermarket oil cooler (hayden brand is best), but I suggest you have your original radiator cleaned and thoroughly checked for leaks or other problems.

It sounds like alot, but it is still cheaper than installing a used 2.7. The 3.2/3.5 engines do not have the notorious problems that the 2.7s do, and will last and last, if taken care of.

A/C: The 2.7 a/c lines can be re-bent and re-used, or you can get the factory 3.2/3.5 lines from the boneyard with your engine. They will bolt right in, and make for a much neater look. You could always buy them new also, if you wanted to spend an extra $200.

Exhaust: The 2.7 exhaust has to be slightly modified to work. The passenger side pipe has to be cut right behind the post-cat O2 sensor and shortened 2 1/2 inches, and re-welded back together. The hangers have to be re-positioned slightly to get them perfect.

93-97 3.5 engines: 1st generation engines are not compatible for the swap.

This is pretty much a bolt-in, plug-in swap, if you have all the correct parts.

This swap works only with a complete, used 3.2 or 3.5 engine. I suggest replacing the spark plugs, oil pan gasket, timing belt, and water pump before installing it. Its not absolutely necessary, but will save you maintenance work down the road, especially if the engine you get has over 50K miles.

If you install a 3.2, you will gain about 30HP, a 3.5HO, about 45 HP, over the 2.7. Not to mention the lack of the 2.7 problems. :rck:

Post your swap questions/pictures/results/concerns here, I will be glad to help!

[ole_pappy]

hi iam in the process of doin a 2.7 to 3.5 swap in my 98. i was wonderin if you had to do anything to the exhaust on the drivers side as you don't mention havin to shortin it .

[Daytrepper]

hi iam in the process of doin a 2.7 to 3.5 swap in my 98. i was wonderin if you had to do anything to the exhaust on the drivers side as you don't mention havin to shortin it .


Nothing has to be done to the drivers side pipe. However-- you might have to bend the hanger alittle to get it to line back up, but that will depend on how well the passenger side pipe was lined up when it was cut and re-welded.

[ole_pappy]

kool ty sir i appreciate the reply

[ballinnmiami240]

Do you guys use the 2.7 transmission or use the 3.2 trans?

I have a local yard asking $1500 for an engine/trans/ecu/harness/rad/mounts........basically anything I want fromt the engine bay. Motor has 100k and is coming out of a 98 concord. I am getting a 99 intrepid, but the engine is dead. All I basically need is an engine.

[ole_pappy]

you need the tranny as it is the same as the 3.2's. you also don't need the ecm as it will run on the 2.7's ecm. you do need the mounts , and the rad ok

[ole_pappy]

oops ya don't need the tranny dam typos

[b1llyw]

Might be fun to swap a 2.7 for a 3.5 HO in a Sebring or Stratus sedan. Nice sleeper.

[ole_pappy]

i got my engine in ok , but when i was hookin it up i found a vacuum pipe from the intake under the throttle body n have no coresponding one on my old 2.7

[Daytrepper]

i got my engine in ok , but when i was hookin it up i found a vacuum pipe from the intake under the throttle body n have no coresponding one on my old 2.7

The only one I can think of that is UNDER the throttle body is not a vacuum line, but a coolant line. It is a 3/8 hose, and goes over to the surge tank. The line tees off from the main heater hose line under the throttle body.

[ole_pappy]

do you mean to the coolant reservoir ?

[Daytrepper]

do you mean to the coolant reservoir ?

Yeah, to the coolant reservoir.

[ole_pappy]

ok , i have a hose comin from the bottom of the tank and i attached it to the stell line that runs from the fron to the back of the motor and the t's. the other t has the return line from the heater on it. the steel line i am wonderin about comes out under the throttle body n ends near the fuel n return line for fuel . that steel line is smaller than the hose from the reservoir . any other ideas or some place i might find a better picture or description of the back of the 3.5 ?

[ole_pappy]

you were right about the hose, the 2.7 has the hose goind into a t on the heater hose from the block, thats why i missed it , never disconnected it . ty for your help

[ole_pappy]

ty for the help i have one last question as i am about finished installing the engine. the motor came from a 2000 concorde and the crankposition sensorlead doesn't fit the sensor from my 98 transaxle , any ideas as to why?

[Daytrepper]

ty for the help i have one last question as i am about finished installing the engine. the motor came from a 2000 concorde and the crankposition sensorlead doesn't fit the sensor from my 98 transaxle , any ideas as to why?

Youve probably got the old style sensor in your car. Just go buy one for a 2000 and up Intrepid or Concorde and that will be the right one. Get it from the Chrysler dealer, its substantially cheaper than the old style sensor you have.

[ole_pappy]

ty sir i figured it was somethin like that

[Kimura]

Does anyone know the estimated costs of engine swapping, and what it might cost to have a mechanic do the swap?

The most I've ever done to an engine is replace the valve cover gasket on my Shadow's 2.5...I'd be too intimidated of an engine swap.

I have a 2000 Intrepid with 187k miles on it with the infamous 2.7 Up until now it's been trouble free, in fact it still is, but I hear what sounds like an ever so slight knocking sound...my mechanic thinks it may be the camshaft bearing but without opening it up we don't know.

You can only hear it if the car is stopped and the HVAC and radio are off...You can't hear it over even talking...it's barely noticeable but it is there.

When I was at the junkyard yesterday I came across a white Intrepid that had no bumper or rear wheel but still ran, and I got to experience the "2.7 knock" first hand. Broke my heart to see the poor car dying...

Anyway...

With the miles it has I was thinking it might be more economical to save up and drop a gently used 3.5 in there rather than dumping a ton of money into the 2.7.

I was just wondering if anyone has experience price-related...also do you need a new fuel pump or is it universal for all engines?

Thanks!

[Daytrepper]

If you have a mechanic shop do it, count on a range of $2700-$3500, depending on how familiar they are with the conversion. As for the fuel pump, its universal, will work with all engines.

[JRRR]

In the info. about swapping a 2.7L does the 3.2/3.5L have to have dual overhead cams also??????

[Daytrepper]

In the info. about swapping a 2.7L does the 3.2/3.5L have to have dual overhead cams also??????

3.2/3.5 are not dual overhead cam engines. They dont need to be to complete the swap.

[JRRR]

Thanks for the information on the 3.2/3.5L

[thunderbirdrob]

whre do I place the chains or straps to lift the 2.7 out. I used lifted on the cams on the toasted one but not recommended on the good engine. Maybe you can help me

[CHEVYLUV80]

HI, I have a question. How come the first gen. 3.5 won't work? Is it the OBD1/OBD2 computer stuff or the trans bolt pattern. I can get my hands on a 1994 intrepid with a 3.5 24 valve real cheap.

[Daytrepper]

HI, I have a question. How come the first gen. 3.5 won't work? Is it the OBD1/OBD2 computer stuff or the trans bolt pattern. I can get my hands on a 1994 intrepid with a 3.5 24 valve real cheap.

Several reasons. There are so many differences between the 1st and second gen 3.5's that it makes swapping them into the second gens counterproductive.

Electronics, wiring, exhaust, oil pan, and engine mounts just for starters. To add, the 1st gen 3.5 has less HP than a 2.7, whereas a second gen has 50-60HP more than the 2.7. You would basically have twice the work in the conversion as a second gen 3.5 would, and much less power.

Swapping in a second gen 3.5 or 3.2 is pretty much parts swapping and plug and play. Just make sure you match the year ranges (98-01 to 98-01, and 02-04 to 02-04).

[H.O. Concorde]

Hi,
I recently completed the 2.7 to 3.5 H.O. shuffle. Everything was pretty straight forward and I incurred no issues in the installation due to all of the detailed posts in the Intrepid forum. The donor engine came out of a 1999 LHS. The engine was installed into a 1999 Concorde. Swapped the motor and transmission. The engine turned over and started with only a 30 second rough idle. The idle jumped to around 2500 RPM. This lasted for approx. 3 to 5 minutes. The idle now rests at 1500 to 1600 RPM and 1000 RPM in gear. I recently completed all of the exhaust work and have no vacuum leaks. (Sprayed starting fluid all around the manifold) I drove the vehicle in the city, stop and go for about 30 minutes and took the vehicle on the highway for a 50 mile round trip thinking surely the computer would remap itself. NOPE! Still idles @
1500 to 1600 RPM. No Check engine light. I've tried to blip the throttle wide open. The computer takes over around 3000 RPM and engages the rev limiter. I did install a new throttle position sensor. I unplugged it at idle and had no change in idle speed. This was the only check engine light I incurred, because I caused it. Any ideas you have would be greatly appreciated. I e-mailed Dan but have received no reply. With so many swaps that have been completed I was hoping someone has seen this one.
Thanks!

[Daytrepper]

It sounds like a vacuum leak or bad IAC motor. Its common for them to leak around the EGR tubes where they meet the plenum -- the plenum o-rings can get smashed sometimes when the plenum is installed. You may have sent the email to my old address, I got a new one here recently.

[usg4595]

Before I post my question, just wanted to give an overdue thanks to everyone who has taken the time to post comments/directions on the 2.7 to 3.2 swap. Mine went in w/o any problems at all about 2 years ago, the extra HP makes it alot more fun to drive.

Now my question. On the passenger side, where is the friggin hookup for the o2 Sensor into the main wiring harness? This is the second sensor, the one after the cat. I missed it when I put the engine in. I couldn't find where to plug it in later. I checked the old 2.7to make sure it wasn't on the engine wiring harness. I have pulled the intake plenum twice now looking all over for it and can't find it.

Thanks-
Mark

[CJK440]

I have an 01 Intrepid with of course a blown 2.7. I was going to rebuild it but the waterpump shrapnel killed the pump, crank and cylinders. I'm now looking at a swap.

I have a lead on a 34k mile 2000 300M with the 3.5. The car is totaled and I can get the whole thing for a good price. I just don't see people using 300M parts in the Intrepid/Concorde swaps.

Is it a good donor vehicle or not?? Is it the same semi-plug and play swap as a 3.2 swap??

[ncmopar440]

Ok I have a 02 Intrepid with guess what? Yes a 2.7 with a broke timing chain. Now I can get a wrecked 02 Intrepid with a good 3.2 with less that 40,000 miles on it. Now my question is I live in NC and with the Emissions Inspection can I use my same Computer or do I have to use the Computer from the 3.2? If I use the one from the 3.2 then it will fail Inspection cause the VIN #'s will be diffrent from the car versus computer. Any help in this will be greatly appreciated.

[Slo_Stng]

OK so I recently purchased a 01 Intrepid with the 2.7 for $600 thinking the only thing wrong with it was the oil pump. Not knowing much about these cars I did some research and found lots of horror stories on them. So now Im sure its not just the pump. THe good thing is I found a 00 3.2 for $550. My Q is will the alt from the 2.7 work on the 3.2, and do I really need the convertor bolts from the 3.2? TIA

[Daytrepper]

OK so I recently purchased a 01 Intrepid with the 2.7 for $600 thinking the only thing wrong with it was the oil pump. Not knowing much about these cars I did some research and found lots of horror stories on them. So now Im sure its not just the pump. THe good thing is I found a 00 3.2 for $550. My Q is will the alt from the 2.7 work on the 3.2, and do I really need the convertor bolts from the 3.2? TIA

Alt will not work. None of the accessories will work from the 2.7. You need a complete 3.2 with alt, a/c, starter, p/s pump, engine harness, all hoses and connecting parts.

Converter bolts should be replaced because they are one time use, and without the factory lock-tite (which gets destroyed when you remove them) they tend to come loose, even when putting Permatex lock-tite on them or equivalent. They are cheap, and can save alot of trouble.

[CJK440]

I finished my swap using a 2000 300m as a donor. I had the whole car in my possession so all the parts were there. Instead of cutting and welding the pass side headpipe I simply removed the cat from the donor and swapped it with the intrepid pipe. It still wasn't a perfect fit and I think I should have swapped the entire pipe from the first muffler forward.

I reused the 2.7 A/C lines and they seem to fit OK. Not worth enough to break open the system.

The car fired up with a turn of the key.

[shiftauto]

Hi everyone, This is my first swap on an intrepid Im doing it as a favor for a friend thatsgoing through a divorce and she needs this car running! I purchased the complete engine from a yard. It came from an 01 concord going into an 01 intrepid install was fine engine is in all hoses and plugs were fine however it WONT start. I tried the 3.2 comp no start. put the 2.7 comp back in still no start. Removed the batt to reset everything. Still no starting. took it to the dealer they said it couldnt be made to work the 3.2 comp needs a skim code, and they cant do any flashing or anything to make it work. Have i done something wrong? Ho do I know if the ecm is a skim ecu or not.
I pmd and emailed daytreper but have no response yet, Im very frustrated with this job, any help would be appreciated!
thanks

[CJK440]

I reused the 2.7 A/C lines and they seem to fit OK. Not worth enough to break open the system.

One thing to watch out for if you re-use the 2.7 A/C hoses is contact with the front radiator support under engine torque. I had my Intrepid die on me and throw codes when the electrical connector on one of the lines chafed and shorted the 5v ref signal to ground.

It was a quick fix and a little trim of the support makes sure it won't happen again but it was a PITA

One other question I have. I guess I was supposed to get a power steering code and check engine light with the 3.5 but I don't (no complaints). Did the 2000 300m that I stole the engine out of not have this Power Steering switch??

[CJK440]

Hi everyone, This is my first swap on an intrepid Im doing it as a favor for a friend thatsgoing through a divorce and she needs this car running! I purchased the complete engine from a yard. It came from an 01 concord going into an 01 intrepid install was fine engine is in all hoses and plugs were fine however it WONT start. I tried the 3.2 comp no start. put the 2.7 comp back in still no start. Removed the batt to reset everything. Still no starting. took it to the dealer they said it couldnt be made to work the 3.2 comp needs a skim code, and they cant do any flashing or anything to make it work. Have i done something wrong? Ho do I know if the ecm is a skim ecu or not.
I pmd and emailed daytreper but have no response yet, Im very frustrated with this job, any help would be appreciated!
thanks

My 01 2.7 computer is running a 3.5 out of a 2000 300M without a hitch. Its gotta be a forgotten connector etc. Can you run any codes??

[Daytrepper]

One other question I have. I guess I was supposed to get a power steering code and check engine light with the 3.5 but I don't (no complaints). Did the 2000 300m that I stole the engine out of not have this Power Steering switch??

Only 98's and 99's had the switch...even some early 00's. If you dont have it, no worries.

[Daytrepper]

Hi everyone, This is my first swap on an intrepid Im doing it as a favor for a friend thatsgoing through a divorce and she needs this car running! I purchased the complete engine from a yard. It came from an 01 concord going into an 01 intrepid install was fine engine is in all hoses and plugs were fine however it WONT start. I tried the 3.2 comp no start. put the 2.7 comp back in still no start. Removed the batt to reset everything. Still no starting. took it to the dealer they said it couldnt be made to work the 3.2 comp needs a skim code, and they cant do any flashing or anything to make it work. Have i done something wrong? Ho do I know if the ecm is a skim ecu or not.
I pmd and emailed daytreper but have no response yet, Im very frustrated with this job, any help would be appreciated!
thanks

Generally the ECM's are not interchangeable unless there is no security system (SKIM) or you get the vin changed in the new ecm to match your car.

You may have corrupted the body control module by hooking up the 3.2 PCM and trying to start it too many times.

Start simple, see what you are missing, check fuel/spark and see which one you have. That will start you in the right direction.

Usually these swaps start up like they were always in the car, unless there is an issue with the engine that was installed.

Biggest mistake people make is messing with the computers. Best thing you can do is leave the original 2.7 computer in. If you must install another one, verify that it doesnt have SKIM or get the key, BCM and skim unit from the donor car -- then have the vin changed to yours.

[Daytrepper]

One thing to watch out for if you re-use the 2.7 A/C hoses is contact with the front radiator support under engine torque. I had my Intrepid die on me and throw codes when the electrical connector on one of the lines chafed and shorted the 5v ref signal to ground.

It was a quick fix and a little trim of the support makes sure it won't happen again but it was a PITA


Ive had this happen too, I found it was from installing the radiator support without re-checking the a/c lines. The support will rub right thru the wires and cause a short.

[shiftauto]

got it fixed guys! used the original ecm pulled codes and fount crank angle was not responding. Purchaced the correct sensor, car fired on first try!

however it is throwing code 1495 I think ita a vac line to the back, there were 2 connections and only one line from the engine. I capped one and plummed the other. mebbe reverse that? or cap both. or perhaps a tee? any sugestions.

thanks for the help.

[Slo_Stng]

Ok I got the 3.2 in, now I'm dealing with the a/c. Im going to use the 2.7 lines, and I have the original 2.7 compressor that I havent dissconected, and I also have a 3.2 compressor with out lines. My question is should I leave the 2.7 comp. in there or replace it with the 3.2? Or should I just replace the pulley and clutch, and will it break the system open if I just replace pulley and clutch?...And this 108 deg. weather in Dallas aint helping:VHOT:

[Daytrepper]

Ok I got the 3.2 in, now I'm dealing with the a/c. Im going to use the 2.7 lines, and I have the original 2.7 compressor that I havent dissconected, and I also have a 3.2 compressor with out lines. My question is should I leave the 2.7 comp. in there or replace it with the 3.2? Or should I just replace the pulley and clutch, and will it break the system open if I just replace pulley and clutch?...And this 108 deg. weather in Dallas aint helping:VHOT:

It would be easier to get the 3.2 compressor and lines.

You can just swap the clutches over and it wont open the system, it will be alittle more difficult to re-route the lines since they will still be connected to the compressor.

[chagob]

Does anyone have any video or pictures of the 2.7 to 3.2 or 3.7 swap?

[cbonez1]

I just wanted to tell everyone that i just did a swap with a 3.2. It was alot easier than i thought it was going to be. Took me a while, but with the info i found from a few different postings, it went pretty smooth. It took me about 25 hours but i did it myself. I`m still fixing a couple of small things but it is a relief that it is running. However i do have one problem that i can`t figure out. I am getting a code that is telling me that the # 5 cylinder is misfiring. I put a new coil on it and it still has the code and runs rough. I have checked the others by unplugging them and the # 4 cylinder doesn`t seem like it changed anything when i unplugged it. Is there anything that is common with the 3.2 misfiring? or any suggestions?

[ironman1979]

i really hope thsi isnt a dead thread. i am trying to find a source engine for my trep and i cant find a complete drop out around the kansas city area. anyone have any ideas on where i can find a 3.5 i dont want a 3.2 if im gonna spend my money im gonna get what i want.

[cbonez1]

the passenger side o2 plug is on the transmission.

[Willas]

I was just wondering if you could give me better instructions on how to complete the change over. Step by step would be nice. I got the new 3.2 engine in but can't start the vehicle. Do I have to reset any computer components

[paperthin]

hey whats good!? i bought a 2002 intrepid with our beloved 2.7 already in its glory. headgaskets blown, low end knock and all. and to think, i was gonna buy the same motor!? (shaaaame!) UNTILL I CAME ACROSS THIS FORUM THAT IS so, motor swap..... complete drop out from donor, (want to go with 3.5 ho), 3.5 radiator, i geuss what i really need to know is what vin indication for the 3.5, will it matter? -g,m- or v ? will most everything will be self explanitory out side of the swap directions?

[Daytrepper]

hey whats good!? i bought a 2002 intrepid with our beloved 2.7 already in its glory. headgaskets blown, low end knock and all. and to think, i was gonna buy the same motor!? (shaaaame!) UNTILL I CAME ACROSS THIS FORUM THAT IS so, motor swap..... complete drop out from donor, (want to go with 3.5 ho), 3.5 radiator, i geuss what i really need to know is what vin indication for the 3.5, will it matter? -g,m- or v ? will most everything will be self explanitory out side of the swap directions?

For a 2002, you'll need a 2002-2004 3.5 engine. There are two different ones. They will both work, but one has more HP than the other.

You have a choice of the 3.5 Magnum, or the 3.5 High Output. The high output is about 15 more HP than the Magnum engine, but the swap process is the same on both.

I have this book on ebay that explains the whole process step by step start to finish if anyone is looking for complete instructions:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320319193123&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&viewitem=

[paperthin]

hey thanks for the book daytrep. everything looks out lined pretty well in your book right down to torque specs. so you have kits too huh? how about a set up for my 02 intrepid 2.7 (-to 3.5Ho) ................complete car waiting to be dismantled

[Daytrepper]

hey thanks for the book daytrep. everything looks out lined pretty well in your book right down to torque specs. so you have kits too huh? how about a set up for my 02 intrepid 2.7 (-to 3.5Ho) ................complete car waiting to be dismantled


Your welcome. If youve got a complete car as a donor, youve got everything you need. Id replace the hoses and belts with new ones at least, and the spark plugs and PCV valve.

The kits are getting pricey due to Chryslers recent supplier issues, so its to your benefit if you can find the stuff used.

[paperthin]

i dont have a donor car just yet. just the main car untouched, i thought maybe you guys would have abetter deal, ..............still on the hunt

[paperthin]

oh and i came across a police package. any different? will that work?

[Daytrepper]

oh and i came across a police package. any different? will that work?

Police or any package will work, just have to match year range with your car -- 98-01 to 98-01, and 02-04 with 02-04, as long as its a 3.2, 3.5, or 3.5HO.

[paperthin]

i've been looking up parts on a sight called car-parts.com it has all sorts of used listings for a specific area

[ssseod]

I just finished swapping a 2.7 for a 3.2. My Intrepid is a 2001 and I put a 2000 engine in it. I have very little auto mechanic experience and i was able to do this in my gargage. It took me about 6 weeks as I was only working on it a little bit of the time. The car is running great and started the first time without any problems. I paid 750 for the engine and about 600-700 in additional parts for the conversion. This included a getting a used alternator, starter and A/C compressor in addition to the conversion kit. It was simple and straightforward. I highly recommend getting a copy of Daytreppers how-to manual!!! It's well put together in an easy to understand format with pictures.

Now I just have to figure out what to do with this 2.7 boat anchor sitting in my garage??

Thanks Dan for all your help and patience!!!

[mellomike]

i found a 1998 lhs with a 3.5 i have a 2002 concorde 2.7 i wanted to know if i bought the motor and the tranny would they match up to the frame. if the frame matches what else should i get besides the wiring hornest everything on the motor is included. i can get the motor and transmission for 500 dollars would i need the computer from the lhs

[xR1pp3Rx]

um read this thread more carefully my friend ... your answere is already here.

on a side note.. i have my 3.2 in and it needs only a few things to finish her up. the project is for my oldest boy who has very little time between school and sports. my question relates to hopefully saving him what prescious money he has as he doesnt have a regular job during the school yr., most important to me is his grades anyhow ;) anyways... my question comes from the back side of the engine. the 2.7 had a conglomeration of hoses back there. the 3.2 doesnt seem to have that many ports or connection points. can most of these be by-passed? as in can i simply use the same amount of hose as there is ports (EEK) lol... could anyone post a picture of the final hose assemblies in back of the motor? or give a possible detailed discription of the ports versuses what hose attaches to certain point and were the other end goes? man i really wish i could buy that book of day trippers but at this point it seems frivolous (again trying to save every ounce of money incase he needs a battery or some other last min stuff before we fire it up),to buy it with only a couple of conections to make. ive searched every were for similar pictures. my 3.2 was already pulled from the engine bay before we bought it so i have no reference to what goes were on the 3.2



my car is a 01 intrepid and the engine is from a 98 concorde. other than that... what is the protocall for the old fuel in the tank... has been parked for 2 yrs now and it was on empty when she blew up. can a guy just fill her up with fresh gas and add some sea foam to it?
any help will go a long ways to seeing my boy on the road in what i think will be a great car for him.

[jim022659]

oops ya don't need the tranny dam typos

if you dont need the tranny with a swap to the 3.5, then were does the xtra gear come from? just the fact that the ratios are different?

[Kimura]

So, I'm about to take the plunge and do an engine swap. Reliability wise, is the 3.2 or 3.5 any better than the other, or is it about the same?

Other, important question. I just want to clarify...can I reuse the transmission I have and hook it up to a 3.2 or 3.5, or do i need another transmission?

[Daytrepper]

if you dont need the tranny with a swap to the 3.5, then were does the xtra gear come from? just the fact that the ratios are different?

The transfer gear ratios are different, 2.7 is 3.89 and 3.2/3.5 trans is 3.66. They both are identical transmissions except for the transfer gears behind the rear cover.

[Daytrepper]

So, I'm about to take the plunge and do an engine swap. Reliability wise, is the 3.2 or 3.5 any better than the other, or is it about the same?

Other, important question. I just want to clarify...can I reuse the transmission I have and hook it up to a 3.2 or 3.5, or do i need another transmission?

3.2/3.5 are very reliable. Not many issues with them.

If you have high mileage, go ahead and swap out the trans with a lower mile unit. You can keep your 2.7 trans in if you wish, there will be no problems bolting a 3.2/5 to it.

Boneyards sell these transmissions for $400 or less with super low miles, so if you have well over 100,000 miles on your car you might as well change it out. Get one from a 2.7 so you have the good gearing.

[jim022659]

ok thanks. I see I already have the better gearing since I have the 04 2.7 with 40000 on it. sweet

[Kimura]

Daytrepper,

I came across a manual on ebay you created for engine swaps. that is very cool, and should come in handy.

[madatmy2.7]

I have a 98 Concorde with a bad 2.7 and my father has a 97 3.5 from an intrepid. I was hoping to do the swap because he has the computers and the trany but is there some other reason I cant do the swap? The 3.5 is a LH motor and it had the 42LE Trans. Is it the computers and can I just swap those as well?:huh:

[Daytrepper]

Daytrepper,

I came across a manual on ebay you created for engine swaps. that is very cool, and should come in handy.

Your welcome Kimura. If you need any help with it let me know. Always glad to assist in getting another Trep running!

[Daytrepper]

I have a 98 Concorde with a bad 2.7 and my father has a 97 3.5 from an intrepid. I was hoping to do the swap because he has the computers and the trany but is there some other reason I cant do the swap? The 3.5 is a LH motor and it had the 42LE Trans. Is it the computers and can I just swap those as well?:huh:

Unfortunately the 93-97 engines are not compatible for the swap. Basically, you would be looking at replacing every last wiring harness in your Concorde with parts from the Trep to make it work, plus some modifications to make the engine fit. Computers, BCM, wiring are all worlds different.

The complete redesign of the LH model in 1998 is the reason.

For your 98 Concorde, 98-01 3.2 engine or 3.5HO, complete, is what you need for the swap.

[darkcougarkat]

I performed the 2.7 to 3.5 swap on my 98 concorde, and everything checked out.. at first.

I am having an issue where especially in the winter if i don't warm it to operating temperature fully (middle of the gauge) it will get about a mile and the ignition cuts, if i take out the auto-shutdown relay and swap it with any of the others its fine the rest of the day. next morning is the same issue.

Any ideas? Im quite stumped on this here, any input would certainly be appreciated

[madatmy2.7]

Ok thank daytrepper

[AZ_Ron]

Well, here's my story... I've owned a '97 Trep for the past 3 years with the 3.3L engine. I now have 215,000 on it, and it still runs fine, but the rest of the car is falling apart around it. I really like Trep's and love the newer body styles. I found an '01 with 78,000 miles on it with the 2.7L in it. I normally do a lot of research before a big purchase, but this time around, I didn't do enough.
I've had the car 2 months, and on the way to a service call last Friday, about 2 hours outside of town, I looked down to see the temp gauge almost pegged. I immediately pulled over and popped the hood. Quite a bit of smoke (Smelled of oil) was coming off the engine. After it cooled down, I was unable to get it to start again. Had it towed into the shop in the small town I had just passed and they called me the next day to tell me they found water in the oil ( I Did check the oil right after I pulled over and it looked normal)
They told me it probably had blown a head gasket, and since the heads and block are aluminum, it would need a full rebuild, deck the heads, block, etc... $1700, plus parts. So I'm figuring $3,000 on the car I just bought for $3400. That doesn't make any sense...

It's in awesome shape, except for the engine.
A buddy of mine did some searching around and can get me a complete drop out 3.2L for $700...
I'm going to get the car back to town and my buddy and I will do our own diagnostics... might get lucky and it'll just be blown head gasket, but I'm not holding my breath. I bought Daytreppers book on ebay a few minutes ago planning on having to swap the engine. I've done several engine swaps, but all on older muscle cars... never something with 8 billion wires/hose/vac lines, etc... from what I've read though, this seems very doable for me.
I love forums... always handy answers and people to field questions!!!
Thanks for a place to learn!!

Ron

[Daytrepper]

I performed the 2.7 to 3.5 swap on my 98 concorde, and everything checked out.. at first.

I am having an issue where especially in the winter if i don't warm it to operating temperature fully (middle of the gauge) it will get about a mile and the ignition cuts, if i take out the auto-shutdown relay and swap it with any of the others its fine the rest of the day. next morning is the same issue.

Any ideas? Im quite stumped on this here, any input would certainly be appreciated

Most likely the crankshaft sensor.

[BK R/T]

Hi,
I recently completed the 2.7 to 3.5 H.O. shuffle. Everything was pretty straight forward and I incurred no issues in the installation due to all of the detailed posts in the Intrepid forum. The donor engine came out of a 1999 LHS. The engine was installed into a 1999 Concorde. Swapped the motor and transmission. The engine turned over and started with only a 30 second rough idle. The idle jumped to around 2500 RPM. This lasted for approx. 3 to 5 minutes. The idle now rests at 1500 to 1600 RPM and 1000 RPM in gear. I recently completed all of the exhaust work and have no vacuum leaks. (Sprayed starting fluid all around the manifold) I drove the vehicle in the city, stop and go for about 30 minutes and took the vehicle on the highway for a 50 mile round trip thinking surely the computer would remap itself. NOPE! Still idles @
1500 to 1600 RPM. No Check engine light. I've tried to blip the throttle wide open. The computer takes over around 3000 RPM and engages the rev limiter. I did install a new throttle position sensor. I unplugged it at idle and had no change in idle speed. This was the only check engine light I incurred, because I caused it. Any ideas you have would be greatly appreciated. I e-mailed Dan but have received no reply. With so many swaps that have been completed I was hoping someone has seen this one.
Thanks!

YOU :rck:
Now where did u go to get it done. I own a Intrepid R/t but some idiot hit me on my right fendor kinda hard. And alot of body shops tell me its gonna b too expensive. I can easily get my hands on another intrepid for $700 easy. So i need help doin the swap. Can u help?

[Kimura]

Well I may have found myself a 3.5 donor.

There's an `01 300M with 107,000 miles on it at the junkyard. It was in a front end collision, however they started it up for me and it seemed to run well. Compression test showed all six cylinders at 100 psi.

I have tog o back with my check list and make sure everything on the list is good, but I'm cautiously optimistic about it. It's cost $900.

Just to clarify, they're willing to include the brain, do I not need it? Or would it be good to just get it to be safe?

[BK R/T]

Hey ppls how yall doin. Here's the thing. I currently own a 2000 Intrepid R/T. With the 3.5L Magnum HO setup, whole nine yards. But unfortunately some idiot hit me in the fendor pretty hard. Some body shops r tellin me its not worth fixing or its gonna b too expensive. I've had too much fun driving this car, and not about to jus junk it, not when the engine and tranny is in perfect workin condition. So here i am looking for swap shops. I can EASILY get another intrepid for 700 easy. so all i need is a spot in the new york area that can do it for me... and help. Here's some pictures.

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p305/princerick/IMG00117.jpg
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p305/princerick/IMG00120.jpg

AND HERE'S THE ACCIDENT PIX
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p305/princerick/IMG00192.jpg
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p305/princerick/IMG00214.jpg
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p305/princerick/IMG00221.jpg

heres a close up
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p305/princerick/IMG00036.jpg


SOMEBODY PLZZ HELP.

[Kimura]

Pssh, I'd fix what you have. But then I'm crazy like that, and refuse to conform to the "throw away" mentality of our society.

Our other car, a Geo Prizm, was rear ended by a moving truck and declared a total loss. So what did I do? Fixed it of course!

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Picture023-1.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Prizmandleaves090.jpg

You can save yourself a lot of mony on teh repairs if you get the body panels you need yourself. I was lucky and got the same color bumper and trunk, so even though the car hasn't been repainted yet, the damage is hardly noticeable.

Cost me about $600 to have them do the repairs and $200 for the parts (bumper cover, bumper reinforcement, energy absorber, trunk, and tail light).

You're would probably cost more, but if it's repairable I say go for it. Don't let it end up being crushed and turned into a Camry.

[BK R/T]

Pssh, I'd fix what you have. But then I'm crazy like that, and refuse to conform to the "throw away" mentality of our society.

Our other car, a Geo Prizm, was rear ended by a moving truck and declared a total loss. So what did I do? Fixed it of course!

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Picture023-1.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Prizmandleaves090.jpg

You can save yourself a lot of mony on teh repairs if you get the body panels you need yourself. I was lucky and got the same color bumper and trunk, so even though the car hasn't been repainted yet, the damage is hardly noticeable.

Cost me about $600 to have them do the repairs and $200 for the parts (bumper cover, bumper reinforcement, energy absorber, trunk, and tail light).

You're would probably cost more, but if it's repairable I say go for it. Don't let it end up being crushed and turned into a Camry.

Yea I def don't want them to crush my baby. And I got some sites that sell parts like partstrain and another site that escapes me at the moment. But if u guys have any others, more wouldn't hurt. But I still need a spot that can do it for me. I don't have the tools or the experience to do my car's own bodywork. Anybody know of any in the NY area? Thanx in advance

[Kimura]

I don't, but just shop around and bring photos. Check their prices and quality of work.Also, if you can find body panels of the same color at the junkyard, yo won't have to worry about repainting the car if you want to save that for later. Fir better or for worse (better in your case) there are plenty of Intrepids in the junkyards...so you have a decent chance of finding one the same color as yours.

[BK R/T]

I don't, but just shop around and bring photos. Check their prices and quality of work.Also, if you can find body panels of the same color at the junkyard, yo won't have to worry about repainting the car if you want to save that for later. Fir better or for worse (better in your case) there are plenty of Intrepids in the junkyards...so you have a decent chance of finding one the same color as yours.

alright man, thanx... ill look around.

[Kimura]

While I've got the engine. :D

Just need to get the truck to go get it Friday morning.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Intrepid/engine1.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Intrepid/engine2.jpg

[Daytrepper]

While I've got the engine. :D

Just need to get the truck to go get it Friday morning.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Intrepid/engine1.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Intrepid/engine2.jpg

Looks good!! Looks pretty complete!

[Kimura]

Yep, I made it pretty clear to them I wanted everything. There's a few things they forgot to take out....power steering reservoir, a/c lines (even though I disconnected them), and motor mount brackets...which I reminded them I wanted.

When I left they got me the brackets and were sitting on top of teh engine, the other parts should be with it on Friday.

I looked it over carefully and it looks like the only damage was to that one pulley. The timing cover looks good, the engine looks good all around. I was watching them take out other engines and they seemed pretty careful with them...so hopefully that bodes well for how mine was taken out.

Pipes and stuff look good too.

I do have a question.

Can I use a radiator out of a 3.2? Is it the same? They have a couple in the yard but I'm not sure if they have any with the other two 300Ms in the yard. The radiator on the one my engine came out of was damaged in the wreck.

[Daytrepper]

Yep, I made it pretty clear to them I wanted everything. There's a few things they forgot to take out....power steering reservoir, a/c lines (even though I disconnected them), and motor mount brackets...which I reminded them I wanted.

When I left they got me the brackets and were sitting on top of teh engine, the other parts should be with it on Friday.

I looked it over carefully and it looks like the only damage was to that one pulley. The timing cover looks good, the engine looks good all around. I was watching them take out other engines and they seemed pretty careful with them...so hopefully that bodes well for how mine was taken out.

Pipes and stuff look good too.

I do have a question.

Can I use a radiator out of a 3.2? Is it the same? They have a couple in the yard but I'm not sure if they have any with the other two 300Ms in the yard. The radiator on the one my engine came out of was damaged in the wreck.

Good deal.

Yes, you can use a 3.2 radiator, is identical. Or, you can use the 2.7 radiator and eliminate the oil cooler on the 3.2/5 you install. Just make sure you check the 2.7 radiator over and see that it is in good condition.

[Kimura]

And here it is at the shop:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/GMCCanyon2.jpg

I made sure it was well tie down and padded, and drove it carefully back from the junkyard. I'm lucky my mechanic friend let me borrow his truck!

It also looks like I'll get to help do the work to...which is cool. That means I'll have a greater feeling of accomplishment when all is set and done.

[onecatnodog]

Daytriper! You state that the Intrepid with the 2.7 has 3.89 gears in it from the Factory.. My Prowler from the Factory has 3.56 gears.. Same trans, I would think that a gear swap would be in the making for me if this is true...:rck: What Say You!? What about the speedo being off? What about the computer that monitors the trans on the car? Just some Sunday questions for ya... onecatnodog

[Daytrepper]

Daytriper! You state that the Intrepid with the 2.7 has 3.89 gears in it from the Factory.. My Prowler from the Factory has 3.56 gears.. Same trans, I would think that a gear swap would be in the making for me if this is true...:rck: What Say You!? What about the speedo being off? What about the computer that monitors the trans on the car? Just some Sunday questions for ya... onecatnodog

Yessir, the 2.7 equipped trannies came with the 3.89 gears. The 3.2/3.5 engines were 3.66 stock.

Absolutely swap the 2.7 3.89 gears into your prowler. Less than $100 for the set from the dealer, and worth it!! It does wonders for the Intrepids, should be just as good if not better for the Prowler!!

[onecatnodog]

Thanks, Daytripper:worthy: Love to learn, now that I'm older...:teacher: What about the SPEEDO? Prowlers have a brain box in the back that works the trans.... onecatnodog

[Daytrepper]

Thanks, Daytripper:worthy: Love to learn, now that I'm older...:teacher: What about the SPEEDO? Prowlers have a brain box in the back that works the trans.... onecatnodog

Speedo will be off a few MPH. Our solution for that in the intrepids was to swap in a 2.7 TCM that had the programming for the 3.89 gears. Not sure this is possible with the prowler, but I wouldnt be surprised if they used the same TCM's that the intrepids use.

[Kimura]

Haven't started the swap yet. Still waiting for a free bay. I think we'll do the timing belt and waterpump while the engine is out.

I have a separate question though. I've been dealing with occasional stalling issues for some time now. Replacing the crankshaft sensor did help for a time, but it came back. Is it the result of the timing chins being loose?

Tonight I was driving to the store, about 6 miles away and was coasting downhill going about 35 mph. I glanced down at the tach and noticed it was at 700rpm. I have it some gas and it resumed coasting and it went back to 1500 or so rpm (where it normally is at that speed). Any idea what that was all about?

[mayhemiwa]

i have 91,xxx miles right now i wanted to do and engine swap on my car the 2.7 engine had sludge in it until i had the engine flushed and there is not as much sludge in the engine but i wanted to do the timing chain and water pump but it cost to much but i would rather have a 3.5 HO in it but how long does it take to do a complete engine swap and how much would it cost to have this done

[padl8697]

Hi I did the swap and the car I put the 3.5 in had a power steering pressure sensor. The 3.5 harness didn't have a plug built into the harness to plug into the sensor. Now I get a chk. eng. light and the only code is p.s. press. code. Can you tell what I need to do to keep this light off. I have the plug I can cut off the 2.7 harness.
Thanks!

[Daytrepper]

Hi I did the swap and the car I put the 3.5 in had a power steering pressure sensor. The 3.5 harness didn't have a plug built into the harness to plug into the sensor. Now I get a chk. eng. light and the only code is p.s. press. code. Can you tell what I need to do to keep this light off. I have the plug I can cut off the 2.7 harness.
Thanks!

Here you go:

1. Locate your two main engine harness connectors at the left front of the engine, to the rear of the alternator.
2. Unplug the smaller connector, which is the furthest one back.
3. On the vehicle side of the harness, cut away the electrical tape on the back of the plug and unsnap the cover.
4. There will be a light-blue wire with a green stripe on it in the bottom right corner of the plug. This is the power steering switch wire.
5. Cut the wire about 1 inch from where it mounts into the plug.
6. Attach a 12" piece of 14 gauge wire to the one you just cut with a butt connector.
7. Locate the engine harness ground bolt on the drivers side cylinder head, about half way back. There will be several wires grounding here already.
8. Using an eye terminal, connect your jumper wire to the ground bolt, grounding the p/s switch circuit, and fooling the computer into thinking you have a p/s signal.
9. Clear the codes.

**Solder all connections!

[Daytrepper]

i have 91,xxx miles right now i wanted to do and engine swap on my car the 2.7 engine had sludge in it until i had the engine flushed and there is not as much sludge in the engine but i wanted to do the timing chain and water pump but it cost to much but i would rather have a 3.5 HO in it but how long does it take to do a complete engine swap and how much would it cost to have this done

Takes about 14-18 hours for the average mechanic. I usually get them done for around $2500, it may be more at a shop.

[Kimura]

I suppose I should post...

Instead of replacing the timing chains on the 2.7I went for a 3.5 HO out of a 2000 300M. The swap itself went very well, the only hitch was a bad radiator that got oil in the coolant. Really sucked, but after cleaning it out and putting my 2.7's radiator back in, all is well.

Few smaller issues are a compressor which is bad, a plenum that was cracked (already replaced) and an exhaust leak. So I just need to get that leak taken care of and I will consider it done. Engine runs great!

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Intrepid/002.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Intrepid/027.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Intrepid/004-1.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Intrepid/001.jpg

My replacement plenum, which I painted:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Intrepid/003-2.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Intrepid/030.jpg

[mayhemiwa]

i called around for the engine swap i have a mechanic shop that does it for about 2800 so it will be done soon i am just waiting for the right time and just being focus on what needs to be done

[padl8697]

Thanks! Daytrepper for the info. on the p.s. pressure switch. I have a water leak thats imitates an leaking freeze plug on the back of the engine. Could the pipe leaking under the intake run down the engine and leak out of the dust cover on the transmission. I have searched everywhere I can and I can't find any water on the outside of the engine.

Thanks!
padl8697

[mellomike]

i found a 1998 lhs with a 3.5 i have a 2002 concorde 2.7 i wanted to know if i bought the motor and the tranny would they match up to the frame. if the frame matches what else should i get besides the wiring hornest everything on the motor is included. i can get the motor and transmission for 500 dollars would i need the computer from the lhs

hellloooooooooooo anybody out there here goes again i have a 02 concorde (2.7) i got a friend who just wrecked his 2000 chrysler 300m with the 3.5 ho motor will the motor and transmission fit on my frame and what else would i need off of his car. he is parting out the car and i can get the motor and tranny for 500 dollars but hate to get it if its not going to fit

[Daytrepper]

Thanks! Daytrepper for the info. on the p.s. pressure switch. I have a water leak thats imitates an leaking freeze plug on the back of the engine. Could the pipe leaking under the intake run down the engine and leak out of the dust cover on the transmission. I have searched everywhere I can and I can't find any water on the outside of the engine.

Thanks!
padl8697

Yep, there's a little O-ring where that pipe curves up and meets the lower intake manifold...near the front of the engine. It is not uncommon for it to leak.

[Daytrepper]

hellloooooooooooo anybody out there here goes again i have a 02 concorde (2.7) i got a friend who just wrecked his 2000 chrysler 300m with the 3.5 ho motor will the motor and transmission fit on my frame and what else would i need off of his car. he is parting out the car and i can get the motor and tranny for 500 dollars but hate to get it if its not going to fit

It will, but there is a ton of stuff you have to change due to the electronics changes starting with 02+ model year.

You'd basically have to find a complete 2002 3.5L core engine to rob parts off of. You'd need engine harness, alternator, upper plenum w/throttle body, egr block off hardware, left cam sprocket, flywheel (that can come from your 2.7), and air intake elbow with IAT sensor. All that stuff from an 02 3.5L would have to go on the 2000 3.5L to make it usable in your 02 2.7L car.

Your easiest route is to use a 2002-2004 3.5L engine...as you would have to do none of the above, just the normal engine swap procedure. But for $500 you may want to look into getting those parts above, as it may still be cheaper doing it that way.

[xR1pp3Rx]

um the one i think you are looking for is ont the side of the tranny
and if it dont fit you will have to buy the same style from the parts store. good luck !

[1970440RT]

I just completed a 02 2.7 to 3.5 swap that I thought was going well until this problem manifested itself.

When I try to start the car, I get a short burst ( 2/10 of a second ) from the starter then nothing. Even if I hold the key all the way to the forward position, no crank at all until I return the key to the off position then go to restart then another small burst from the starter. This small crank is not enough to turn the motor one revolution.

Timeline of events:
1. completed swap, test fired engine with old battery that was in the car, got short bursts from starter.
2. changed battery with known good but used battery. Car fired & engine ran on jackstands. Finished putting everything together- radiator, front clip, cowl, pwer steering etc.
3. Took completed car for a 2 mile test drive and parked it while I cleaned up my tools. After 2 hours of sitting, went to put car in garage and just got one short burst from the starter with each turn of the key.
4. New battery, starter cable & starter put in car. Car cranked & fired on jackstands. Put back together & lowered car & tried to start. Again I get a short burst from the starter with each turn of the key.
5. So far I have checked: ignition switch, grounds, wiring, starter, starter relay, asd relay, starter connections all to no avail. I did not change PCM's , the 3.5 is running off the 2.7 computer. When the car did run, it ran beautifully, no miss, no rough idle.

Any suggestions on what to look for? After scouring the internet, I can't find anyone else with this problem.

[Daytrepper]

I just completed a 02 2.7 to 3.5 swap that I thought was going well until this problem manifested itself.

When I try to start the car, I get a short burst ( 2/10 of a second ) from the starter then nothing. Even if I hold the key all the way to the forward position, no crank at all until I return the key to the off position then go to restart then another small burst from the starter. This small crank is not enough to turn the motor one revolution.

Timeline of events:
1. completed swap, test fired engine with old battery that was in the car, got short bursts from starter.
2. changed battery with known good but used battery. Car fired & engine ran on jackstands. Finished putting everything together- radiator, front clip, cowl, pwer steering etc.
3. Took completed car for a 2 mile test drive and parked it while I cleaned up my tools. After 2 hours of sitting, went to put car in garage and just got one short burst from the starter with each turn of the key.
4. New battery, starter cable & starter put in car. Car cranked & fired on jackstands. Put back together & lowered car & tried to start. Again I get a short burst from the starter with each turn of the key.
5. So far I have checked: ignition switch, grounds, wiring, starter, starter relay, asd relay, starter connections all to no avail. I did not change PCM's , the 3.5 is running off the 2.7 computer. When the car did run, it ran beautifully, no miss, no rough idle.

Any suggestions on what to look for? After scouring the internet, I can't find anyone else with this problem.

Do you have a black, grey, or metal key...and did the car run fine with the same key you are using now, before you replaced the engine?

[1970440RT]

Do you have a black, grey, or metal key...and did the car run fine with the same key you are using now, before you replaced the engine?


Dan, I have 2 black keys for the car. The car turned over with the 2.7 in it on multiple occasions ( before I yanked the 2.7 ). The car never "ran" because when I bought it, the 2.7 was already blown up- but would still turn over. The only problem I seem to have with the keys is they barely open the trunk, I have to shimmy the key pretty good to get the tumbler to turn.

The puzzling part, to me, is that I have driven this car already for 2-3 miles and started it at least 4 times! Each time I test start it and get it running then shut it off, it seems the problem comes back the next time I try to start the car.

I have tried 3 batteries ( of which two are known good ). I checked, cleaned & or replaced all grounds & positive leads that I can find. As far as I know this PCM & BCM are original to this car.

The short bursts from the starter are consistent each time, I get about 2/10 of a second of strong cranking and then it is like something cuts power to the starter. I was going to try a 12 volt lead to the solenoid wire, bypassing the harness to see if I can get it going.

What say you?

Thanks for your help - Terry

[1970440RT]

I have made some progress. Seeing as how I do not have the sentry key (grey), I can rule out an anti theft mode.

I put 12 volts to the solenoid wire and the starter will turn consistently. I can turn the key to the "run" position and start the car with a seperate independent solenid wire supplying 12 volts to the starter. I can drive the car like this.

I have switched starter relays and shimmied the shifter while cranking to try & rule out the neutral safety switch. I have traced the wires through the harnesses to rule out breaks or pinches in the wires.

When I take the starter relay out, I can jump across the two terminals & supply voltage to the solenoid lead and turn the starter. I have 12.5 volts at the ignition lead terminal. When I hook everything back up and the ignition circuit sees a load, then the 12.5 volts goes to zero after a split second.

I think I have the same problem as the thread by jpost3095 ( cant insert link ) from the end of July. He did not post finding a solution.

Any suggestions where to go next?

[Lead Slinger]

Hello all, I've found a bunch of good information here, but I was wondering if anyone had any information on doing a driveline swap.

CURRENT SITUATION:
I've got a 2000 Intrepid with a 2.7 in her. The engines a little wonky and I'd like to swap it. I also have a 2001 Intrepid with a 3.2 (so easy wiring hookup, etc). It was lightly rolled, but the engine and transmission are fine. I'd like to perform a swap, but rather than just an engine swap I'd also like to do the transmission. I think the hookups would be easier.

QUESTIONS

1. Would swapping both be easier than swapping both individually? I don't care about the better gearing--I just want the simplest solution. Keep in mind I have no problems cutting the 2001 Intrepid up. The acetylene torch is just itching to go. Or is just swapping the engine the easiest option?

2. Has anyone here ever done this? Experiences or links would be appreciated.

3. Are there any "tricks" to make the swap go easier/faster? All would be great. I've got a full "farm" shop so tools, elbow-grease, and plenty of cuss words are ready to go ;)

Any and all input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[1970440RT]

I think putting the motor and trans would be more work for sure.

Changing the motor by itself was relatively easy. I'd do the trans if there were a huge mileage difference.

It was easiest for me to remove the cowl assy.,front facia and rad support - only a few bolts and gives you a ton of room.

[1970440RT]

I have made some progress. Seeing as how I do not have the sentry key (grey), I can rule out an anti theft mode.

I put 12 volts to the solenoid wire and the starter will turn consistently. I can turn the key to the "run" position and start the car with a seperate independent solenid wire supplying 12 volts to the starter. I can drive the car like this.

I have switched starter relays and shimmied the shifter while cranking to try & rule out the neutral safety switch. I have traced the wires through the harnesses to rule out breaks or pinches in the wires.

When I take the starter relay out, I can jump across the two terminals & supply voltage to the solenoid lead and turn the starter. I have 12.5 volts at the ignition lead terminal. When I hook everything back up and the ignition circuit sees a load, then the 12.5 volts goes to zero after a split second.

I think I have the same problem as the thread by jpost3095 ( cant insert link ) from the end of July. He did not post finding a solution.

Any suggestions where to go next?

Well, I replaced the ignition module and the problem is still there. I'm out of ideas.

I'm now going to wire the starter to a push button switch on the dash as the car runs normal except for the starting issue.

[1970440RT]

Well, I replaced the ignition module and the problem is still there. I'm out of ideas.

I'm now going to wire the starter to a push button switch on the dash as the car runs normal except for the starting issue.

I went to get the car inspected and on the way I noticed the speedo wasn't working. I'm now getting a trans code of P0706 and PCM code of P0501. The trans code is for the range sensor and the 0501 is for the speedo not working. Of course I can't get the inspection sticker with the MIL on.

I swapped out the speed sensors and checked the trans harness just in case but to no avail. I'm going to take it to a trans shop for the range sensor because it is internal, unless someone here tells me it is easy and I can do it myself. :D

[1970440RT]

Well, got the range sensor replaced. NO CHANGE.

The last thing to swap is the harness or computer. I have a good trans harness, the hard part is getting the old one out.

Does anyone know if I will have a problem swapping two non skm computers (both black keys)?

I hope that the PCM VIN not matching the BCM won't screw something up. I'll wait and hopefully someone will chime in. I'll have my hands full with the trans harness anyway...

[blankman999]

i have done the swap,98 2.7 to 2000 3.5,cam sensor keeps burnin out and car wont start,unhook yellow wire it starts and runs but no power,wire shows its hot and grounded,any help would be great

[padl8697]

Does anybody know what year they changed the intake pipe under the 3.5 intake and started using the pipe with the two bolt flange to prevent the pipe from leaking. I think it was 2001 but I'm not for sure.

[1970440RT]

Just to bring some closure to my swap issues,

I swapped trans harnesses and BCM and it did not fix anything.

I swapped PCM's ( both non skim ) and I now have a working speedo!!

I still am unable to get the car to crank with the key and the PNRD display still shows boxes around all the characters when it is in park & neutral but no more MIL. I just got the car inspected and will live with the starting problem.

Thanks to all that helped.

[bunkhbandit]

HI
First and foremost the help in here is unreal yep have the 2.7 blues alsoand know i should be putting in a 3.2 or 3.5 from a 98 - 01 but with my luck up here in northern Canada i wasn t able to
So now i have a line on a 2002 complete car running sounds awsome with about the same mileage can i do the swap remember i have both cars was thinking of droping out every thing including the struts out of both cars and just rebolting every thing back in can take every thing rite back to the exhaust

question is will it work and what else do i have to look at changing eg the computors etc .... the key in the 2002 isn t coded its like the 98 key

[blankman999]

anyone have a wiring diagram 2000 3.5 intrepid?

[Daytrepper]

Just to bring some closure to my swap issues,

I swapped trans harnesses and BCM and it did not fix anything.

I swapped PCM's ( both non skim ) and I now have a working speedo!!

I still am unable to get the car to crank with the key and the PNRD display still shows boxes around all the characters when it is in park & neutral but no more MIL. I just got the car inspected and will live with the starting problem.

Thanks to all that helped.

Has the transmission or TCM (98-01) been changed?

Sounds exactly like a bad, or wrong transmission harness. I ran into this problem on a couple transmission swaps.

[Daytrepper]

Hello all, I've found a bunch of good information here, but I was wondering if anyone had any information on doing a driveline swap.

CURRENT SITUATION:
I've got a 2000 Intrepid with a 2.7 in her. The engines a little wonky and I'd like to swap it. I also have a 2001 Intrepid with a 3.2 (so easy wiring hookup, etc). It was lightly rolled, but the engine and transmission are fine. I'd like to perform a swap, but rather than just an engine swap I'd also like to do the transmission. I think the hookups would be easier.

QUESTIONS

1. Would swapping both be easier than swapping both individually? I don't care about the better gearing--I just want the simplest solution. Keep in mind I have no problems cutting the 2001 Intrepid up. The acetylene torch is just itching to go. Or is just swapping the engine the easiest option?

2. Has anyone here ever done this? Experiences or links would be appreciated.

3. Are there any "tricks" to make the swap go easier/faster? All would be great. I've got a full "farm" shop so tools, elbow-grease, and plenty of cuss words are ready to go ;)

Any and all input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!


It is about the same to swap the trans with the engine, or leave it in the car. You either have to separate the engine/trans, or pull the cv shafts/trans mount, etc.

I have swapped engine/trans together before, I only usually do it if the car has more than 125,000 miles when doing the engine.

[Daytrepper]

HI
First and foremost the help in here is unreal yep have the 2.7 blues alsoand know i should be putting in a 3.2 or 3.5 from a 98 - 01 but with my luck up here in northern Canada i wasn t able to
So now i have a line on a 2002 complete car running sounds awsome with about the same mileage can i do the swap remember i have both cars was thinking of droping out every thing including the struts out of both cars and just rebolting every thing back in can take every thing rite back to the exhaust

question is will it work and what else do i have to look at changing eg the computors etc .... the key in the 2002 isn t coded its like the 98 key

It is a bit of extra work to make the 2002 engine run in a 1998. You could get all the 98 parts needed, which would be flywheel, plenum, engine harness, egr valve, left cam sprocket, vacuum reservoir, and alternator, and swap them onto the 2002 engine, or, you could take ALL the wiring and electronics out of the 02 car and install it in the 98...a ton of work that way....but possible, and leaves you open for many upgrades.

[devasious]

bought 94 jeep grand cherokee with bad engine and no trans . had a ragedy 93 that had a good running engine and trans in it. swapped both engine and trans to the 94 didnt get the ecm from 93 used the 94 ecm does that matter .the 93 wasnt a grand cherokee it was a jeep cherokee . this grand cherokee has security system on it .this jeep has no power going anywhere but to the interior lights and certain other lamps ..

[pkopca]

I am looking for directions and diagrams for converting a 99 intrepid from a 2.7 to 3.5 HO. I have a donor car of the same year and the 2.7 already removed. I am trying to install with minimal complications as those described above. Daytrepper you appear tohave already accomplished this multiple times and your input would be appreciated. Thanks all.

[blankman999]

anyone know where to get a wiring harness for 2000 intrepid fairly cheap,dealer was $1000

[leeangelo]

Hey man I'm hoping you can help me with this. My car is currently in the shop because of my power steering making loud noise and making this grinding noise when I turn the wheel. The mechanic told me that I needed to replace the pressure hose which attaches to the power steering pump and the high pressure line. We'll he told me that the pressure hose is suppose to have a sort of o ring or seal on the pressure hose which then connects to the high pressure line. I was told by a parts dealer that there is no such seal or o ring on that side of the pressure hose, which is made of metal if that helps. So my question is (sorry for typing so much) is this seal or o ring located on the high pressure line instead? I'm in worse shape than I began, another supposed mechanic ****ed up my car even more than it originally was. I was just suppose to change the power steering pump and be done with this.

[pkopca]

There is alo of information on this webpage and I think there are several postings if you take your time to navigate. I am pretty sure you can locate your answer and if not I think a moderator can give you great advice.:cool:

[pkopca]

anyone know where to get a wiring harness for 2000 intrepid fairly cheap,dealer was $1000

scheckleman@msn.com helped me out with a motor and I am pretty sure he can fix you up.:gr_patrio

[blankman999]

email is no good

[leeangelo]

Hello day trep I think you send me a copy of the 2.7 to 3.2 and 3.5 conversion manual a long time ago. My computer hard drive was whipped out and I don't have a copy of that manual anymore, can you please email me a copy at

kailuaangelo@aol.com Thank you so much.

also I had a question for you. I was planning on buying a 2001 chyrsler LHS for about 1500 to 2000. I wanted to know can I use all of those parts besides the 3.5 engine in it to connect to my intrepid such as the throttle, a.c lines etc which are required to be changed when going from the 2.7 to the 3.5. Since the intrepid and LHS are of the LHS platform I was wondering if they share the same parts as well.

[pkopca]

That was the email on the card. 715-255-8247 is the shop number

[madatmy2.7]

:help:I have a 98 Concord with a bad 2.7 and was wondering if I should swap the tranny at the same time (the one in my car now is not bad). Im not sure if it is any easier or any more advantages to swap both out at the same time.

Any in-put would be very helpfull.:teacher:

[PredatoryKey]

I have the 2.7L and it recently began knocking and leaking oil. took it to the shop and when they replaced the oil system, they found metal bearing shavings covering the bottom 1/4" of the pan and the knocking has gotten worse. So needless to say, I'm going to get rid of it.

Like a few others, if im going to spend the money, Im getting the 3.5L. My Intrepid is a 2001 SE. So my questions are these:

1) Where is a good place to find one around Atlanta, GA or online
2) Could I get the 3.5LHO and it still be "plug and play," or am I stuck with the regular 3.5L?
3) What is the usual TOTAL cost if I were to have a mechanic do the work for me? (Engine, parts, labor, etc....)
4) Anyone near the Atlanta, GA area that might want to help me swap the engine instead of having a shop do it? I love to learn and I'd pay for food:thatfunny:worthy::help:

@Daytrepper - The link for that step-by-step guide of yours said that it was no longer available. Could you give me an up to date link or email it to me?

John.Brown01@live.com

THANKS!!!

[minivanguy]

1. www.car-part.com , local paper, Craigslist, dealer auction, salvage auction, junkyard, etc.
2. why not just get an HO car and drive that using your car for a parts car?
3. IMPOSSIBLE to for say what someone else's TOTAL charges would be. I would do the whole job with motor for $1000 TOTAL cost
4. sorry not me.

[PredatoryKey]

1) Thanks for the info
2) I simply don't have the money or the ability to get another vehicle....I only have about $2000 to my name....
3) So that $1000 would be for both the engine AND the labor?? SWEET. Where are you located??
4) Its cool

[minivanguy]

1) no prob
2) watch for an intrepid with a bad trans or wrecked. I buy wrecked intrepids for under $500, pull the motor, install in customer cars for $1000 (motor and labor), sell off other parts, sell off cats, battery, tires, junk what's left over... generally pull off nice profit
3) 1000 miles away.

[PredatoryKey]

HAHAH. Then I'm going to say that it's a no go. I doubt my Intrepid could make a 1000 mile trip and Id probably use up more money in gas. lol

[eldin18]

Hey everyone im new to this site im lookin into the process of swapping out my 2.7 for the 3.5 engine since my 2.7 knocks like someone is beating the engine with a hammer lol, can someone tell me from what cars can i remove the 3.5 that will bolt right up and plug right in?

[minivanguy]

bolts right in but doesn't just plug right in. The best thing I ever did was junk my 2.7 Intrepid and bought a $150 toyota corolla. 3 years and 50,000 miles later, that toyota hasn't cost me a penny in repairs

[eldin18]

what all will i need to do for it to plug in, and what doesnt plug right in?

[minivanguy]

change wire harness. need correct computer, need correct exhaust and stuff like that. it would be cheaper and easier to get a different car. or buy an intrepid with a bad trans or needing body work and fix that using your car for parts. I did the smartest thing... junked my 2.7 intrepid and bought a $150 toyota. 3 years no repairs what so ever and better gas mileage.

[Daytrepper]

change wire harness. need correct computer, need correct exhaust and stuff like that. it would be cheaper and easier to get a different car. or buy an intrepid with a bad trans or needing body work and fix that using your car for parts. I did the smartest thing... junked my 2.7 intrepid and bought a $150 toyota. 3 years no repairs what so ever and better gas mileage.

Wire harness doesnt have to be changed, nor does the computer. Its not that difficult, really. As long as you have a 3.2/3.5 with a good engine harness on it, that is complete with all accessories it will plug right into your vehicle harness, where the 2.7's engine harness plugged in. The engine will run perfectly on the 2.7 computer, thanks to them being adaptable. Other than that, it is all parts swapping, basically hoses, belts, throttle cables, and the air intake pipe. I have done over 200 of these, got em down to a science. I have a book on ebay that details the entire process start to finish.

Exhaust requires a simple modification to the right (passenger) pipe, which can be done easily with a welder and cut off saw while the engine is out, or can be done cheaply at an exhaust shop at the same time.

Done yourself, you can do this for less than $1500 if you shop around, and dont mind going to the u-pull a few times, or you can buy the parts new from Dodge if you desire. I recommend that route if you plan on keeping the car for a long time, it will save you in the long run. You wont get a good, reliable used car that doesnt need work for that price, most of the time.