Intake suggestions anyone?

[needa440please]

Ok, here's the deal - I've since purchasing my D150 converted the weak Spark Control over to the old school distributor with advance and a ECU. Now that worked good, so I decided to clean up the apperance of the engine by getting rid of the pollution controls. I didn't have an air pump, but did have those exhaust tubes running from each manifold to the air cleaner, an EGR valve w/vacuum coolant switch. Also elimininated the electric choke and associated vacuum lines/diaphrams.

When I removed the pipe from my drivers side manifold, I blocked it off. Drove around and thought - ok, this is good - Went back and did the pass. side pipe, drove around and then it wasn't happy. Didn't want to idle right, hesitated and such. So after looking a bit more, I noticed the flap on the pass side manifold was still closed when the engine was hot, I was able to take and open/close it, and feel the exhaust become restricted against it. So I took vice grips and held it open. Drove around again- It was better.

Then yesterday I go to a friends about 30 mins drive, and about 3/4 of the way there, cruising at highway speed, the engine starts to stumble, and eventually shuts off. Now while this is happening, I shift to neutral and rev her a bit - It seems like it was still running w/ weak spark or something. The more gas the less it wanted to run.

When it quit, I pulled over, flipped the switch I installed that gives full power to the coil during cold start. (I like to have control and this time happend to be useful) The thing starts again and on I go - Switched it back off and kept going - Whew - :)

Now it did the stumble on the way back, and I managed to keep it under control. Then did it again today - So I had to poke around.
I found some vacuum diagrams and noticed I hadn't unhooked the EGR from the carb. So After doing that, I ran her back out again, and it's like night and day. It's like I have more power and such now.......

Ok, well here's my intake question - Two barrel intake, w/ EGR - Can I just remove the intake and clean out the crap underneath, as well as the exhaust crossovers. Will it save me money to keep the 2bbl or just go to a 4bbl carb?
I love to put my foot in it and seems like I go through more gas than my friends 4x4 w/4bbl - WTF - gas is expensive! I also have considered replacing the timing chain. Will my water pump/timing cover/oil leaks be a big problem? - I finally have some cash to throw at the tired girl and need suggestions in the "restoring pep" dept. I like stock factory stuff being improved by aftermarket. Yet don't have thousands to throw. More like hundreds. So be easy :)

I curious to see what you think boys!

[Speed Dragon]

On a stock engine, I'd leave the 2bbl on it. If you like to kick it all the time, you'll definitely save gas w/ the 2bbl, and a stock engine doesn't really need anymore than that anyway.

[Dodgevanman]

Get a late 60's/early 70's 2bbl. intake and have it cleaned. This will totally eliminate your EGR valve.

[farmguy]

You will see a BIG difference when replacing that timing chain....AND, to gain some HP and MPG, get a speed set, and advance that cam about 4 degrees. All the mopar motors from the late 70`s till the magnums w/ FI had retarded cam timing, for pollution concerns. Comp cams come w/ the cam advanced that 4 degrees, when set in staight up, w/ the comp cam timing set.

[needa440please]

Ok, sounds good. I may just get a performance 2bbl intake - they're cheap and look nice.

I think my carb is going - seems when I go around a corner now, it cuts out. I can kinda pump the gas and get it to come back. No fun -
2280
Can I rebuild this carb easy? I believe it's a Holley model

Or maybe a simpler fix. Am I in need of an older carb as well? Or performance carb?

Thanks again for any advice! :)

[Speed Dragon]

Sounds more like you are out of gas :)

And where did you find a performance 2bbl intake?

[needa440please]

I didn't - yet ! :)
Is there nothing out there?

And I might be out of gas, I do run her empty. :(

Maybe I have a few problems......

[bherder]

I didn't - yet !
Is there nothing out there?

Only if you're talking about THREE 2 bbls... :D
I've never seen a 'perfomance' intake for a 2 bbl on a V8... (I may be wrong, I've just never seen one... Or don't remember if I did...)

2280
Can I rebuild this carb easy? I believe it's a Holley model

Yes it is... they're pretty simple/easy IF you know your way around them. If you've never rebuilt a carb before, pay CLOSE attention to the instructions!
(I'm not trying to scare you or anything.. I just don't know your level of 'Mechanical Sainthood' ;) )

Or maybe a simpler fix. Am I in need of an older carb as well? Or performance carb?

4 bbl's are pretty damn nice to have... :D :D :D

[needa440please]

Ok, I have found something else strange - My truck is charging at 14.7-15v .

When I check the positive side of the coil w/ multimeter it reads up and down
from 12-18v at idle ? This seems strange to me.

I get 15v at the alternator at idle. Should I replace it ?

Truck is still losing power and dying in the middle of the road..... Very sad!

[Speed Dragon]

Replace the voltage regulator, if that doesn't fix it, you need an alternator.

[B-300]

I have installed a 2 bbl carb onto a 4 bbl manifold using an adaptor on a 360 engine with an RV cam in an A-100 van and it works great.
As to your overcharging problem the alternator will not cause it but a bad regulator or battery with a bad cell or low electrolyte level can.
Other things to check include battery cables/connections and ground connections to the engine, body and frame.
To much voltage at the coil will cause it (the coil) and/or the ignition control box to overheat causing the ignition system to fail.
--B-300--

[needa440please]

I just full of questions - thanks for all the info guys!

I found a 4bbl intake yesterday, it's pre emissions and has no EGR. Looks like a dual plane setup compared to my 2bbl intake. It does have a spot for a choke but that's it. (I can't figure out how to post a picture, which I have)

I think it has the crossover for exhaust, which underneath is riveted on? Can this be removed, or cleaned? Also has two stainless fittings inside below where the carb mounts..... One is clean, one is plugged - What do they do?

Thanks again :)

[Speed Dragon]

That's just an oil splash shield underneath, leave it. The exhaust crossover is cast into the intake. You need it for the choke to work right. Sounds like you got an early 70s/late 60s 340 intake.

[B-300]

The plate on the bottom is a splash shield and it can be removed to clean any burnt oil between it and the manifold by tapping a metal chisel under the the rivet heads to loosen them and a vice-grips to twist them out... The are twist rivets and if they won't stay tight on reinstallion the the holes can be tapped and short bolts with lockwashers to replace them. (1/4-20 thread, I think)
The stainless fittings you describe divert the hot EGR gas away from the carb and towards the intake runners.
--B-300--

[needa440please]

Ok sweet! Did 340's have 4bbl only or can you get a 2bbl?
Well, my friend had a rochester quadrajet on it, which never worked good.
I think due to the carb being off some old engine and never freshened up.

Anyone know if you can adapt the square bore carbs to these intakes?

Thanks again Speed and B-300 very useful advice. :)

[needa440please]

Oh, and if these numbers mean anything to you guys, heres what is stamped on top of the manifold

BZC (And on the back it has a Chrysler symbol,
3671918AE and an circular arrow w/ Distributor Rotation )
Firing Order
18436572

Just for you hardcore dodge fanatics!

[bherder]

.

Anyone know if you can adapt the square bore carbs to these intakes?


There are a few companies ('Mr. Gasket' comes to mind) that make spread-bore to square-bore (Or vice-versa) adaptors...

[B-300]

A square-bore can be adapted to the spread-bore manifold in 2 different ways.
1. The prefered method..
Have the center of the manifold machined so it has a plenum divider that is about 1/4" wide, similar to the Edelbrock manifold and use an Edelbrock or CarterABS carb that has a dual bolt pattern or a 4-hole adapter plate for square to spread bore.
2. Use an open center square to spread bore adaptor. This has the problem that substantle adjustment to carb tuning are needed and the distribution of the fuel/air mixture.
--B-300--

[needa440please]

I was just explaining in the "318 driveability issues" thread, I adjusted the fuel/air mixture at the carb and got some results.

Seems to run better now, more on this tomorrow..... :)

Thanks again.

[m37boblee]

If you stay with a small 4bbl AND keep your foot out of it you can get better milage than with a 2 bbl carb. Try an AVS (edelbrock makes them again) they have adjustable secondaries, and work very well. Don't go over 600 CFM carb size. The stock dual plane 4 bbl manifold is really hard to beat for a truck.