So I just got this van and it has issues with a cable or sumthin either way it needs a jump start here and there, but i was fiddlin around with a power inverter and a piece of metal got stuck in the lighter socket, well instead of disconnectin one termilan i dug it out with sparks here and there well then the van made the strangest sputter noise tryin to start so i tryed and tryed with this lil civic hooked up jump starting well suddenly and i mean suddenly no turning just vroom and it started with some smoke though. Well I look around and what this coolant dripping quite rapidly so i get under there and its like dripping right of the altenator, or OUT of it so i open the dog house engine not leaking from behind or over i cannot see the side dead on but it appears its leaking from facing the van on the left side like i said the altenator, it stopped leakin though haven't been able to drve it around but i started it up and she ran for a good 20 min cool. whats the issue???
B-300
03-30-2007, 01:20 PM
I don't think the electrical and water leakage issues are related.
It's possible the bolts that hold the alternator bracket, water pump and timing cover are loose allowing water coolant to leak out at the mounting point.
Also since this van has been stored there is a the possibity that the timing cover and/or water pump have corroded at the gasket surfaces causing a leak... The sealing sufaces around the bolts are narrow there.
Another possiblilty is an incorrect length bolt has been used to hold the alternator bracket so the bolt threads bottoms out before it's tight and holding the water pump down/alternator bracket.
--B-300--
BigBlackB250
03-30-2007, 11:00 PM
Alright. Well i found something else out the heat stopped working and am i looking at a major engine problem here or just a simple fix.
BigBlackB250
03-30-2007, 11:06 PM
also i need to know where to drain the coolant to flush out the brown muck its at the bottom of the radiator i know but where is it that fly nut that wont dislodge cant i just disconnect bottom hose i think that was the cause of the leak pressure built up PLEASE HELP i am an aspiring informal mechanic tryint o get a decent running truck to get me to school to become legit.
Dodgevanman
03-31-2007, 01:46 AM
Yes...you can disconnect the bottom hose and flush the rad. out with a garden hose. If the debis is really tight in there, you can take the rad. to have it professionally cleaned or replace it.
Did the heat work before or did it just happen?
Ram4ever
03-31-2007, 06:49 AM
You may have the very same problem I just had yesterday - there is a heater control valve over top of the alternator in one of the coolant lines to the heater core. The valve began leaking, but only while the engine was running. Of course I had the air intake hose off of the snorkle to my air cleaner so it soaked my air cleaner. That air cleaner earned it's worth!
BigBlackB250
03-31-2007, 01:24 PM
the heat stopped working right after it stopped leaking, so it just happened yes, Please tell me this isn't going to affect the engine or driveability too much, funny thing though after the piece of metal got stuck in the lighter socket all them sparks and crap, well sumthin good happened i don't have to jump start it any more after shutting it off wierd, you guys are a great help lol one day ill be a mechanic on tv or sumthing with this van hopefully i really like it i used to have an chevy astro thing going but now i see that old school dodge is where it at!
B-300
03-31-2007, 03:52 PM
As for the no heater, the 2 most likle problems are.
1. the heater core has become plugged up like the radiator and needs flushing... I would disconnect it and flush it from both directions using a garden hose if it's plugged.
2. The coolant level got low due to the leak causing the water pump to pump air. This would also overheat the engine.
It sounds like the sludge in the cooling system is acting as stop-leak.
I would give it a good flushing first. If you can remove the block drains it would help. There located near the transmission braces about 1/2 down the length of the block and about 2" up from the oil pan gasket.
--B-300--
van-nut
03-31-2007, 05:45 PM
On the subject of coolant, I have read many, many posts here about all sorts of various problems, but I have NEVER once heard anyone mention useing distilled water in their mix. Any time I change coolant, and I need to create a freash mix of antifreeze & water, I ALWAYS go to the grocery store and pick up a gallon or 2 of distilled water. Very cheap - usually less than a buck a gallon. This will not contaminate the cooling system with any minerals which may be present in your tap water. Some parts of the country are worse than others.
Anyone else do this, or is it just me?
Pete
Ram4ever
03-31-2007, 07:45 PM
I've done it before, but I haven't been consistent about it. I didn't really notice much of a difference, though a lab report might show more or less metal content based on how acidic the tap water would be. I think you're right about areas with nasty water; no need to put more calcium & etc. in than necessary.
BigBlackB250
03-31-2007, 08:21 PM
wheres the heater core located? Block drains???? What exactly are "block drains" i take it, instead of disconnecting bottom hose remove block drains or remove both to flush the block AND flush the radiator aswell as flushing out the heater core which now more than likely is shot and water pump pumping air where exactly is this air going if not trapped somewhere like the heater core maybe. OH yeah is it wise to do it my self!!!??? again thanks
Mike
Ram4ever
04-01-2007, 03:13 AM
The heater core is inside the large black plastic box with hoses going to it, inside the engine compartment. Rather perversely it tends to be the highest part of the system in a van, so it can collect air.
What B-300 recommended was for you to remove the two hoses (they should have hose clamps) going into the heater box, and blast a healthy stream of water through the pipes going into the box. (The heater core is out of sight inside the box) Flush the core with the hose attached to one pipe, then the other. This would improve the odds of dislodging any debris that's willing to come out. Wear old clothes; the stuff that comes out might stain your good ones!
An engine block drain would often be a plumbing-type pipe plug located in the side of an engine block. It might have a recessed Allen hex key head. It's usually located at the lowest, most remote part of the water jacket in an engine, where all the heavy crud and debris would settle. Amazing things can collect down there... and if allowed to collect for long can cause hot spots and reduced coolant flow.
A regular cooling system flush won't be able to generate enough force of flow to lift the really heavy stuff up and out, so pulling the drain plugs allows you to blast it right out the bottom of the system.
BTW, there are usually similar plugs in an engine's oil distribution system.
Be sure to apply some thread sealant goop to the plugs when reinstalling them!
Dodgevanman
04-01-2007, 05:36 PM
On the subject of coolant, I have read many, many posts here about all sorts of various problems, but I have NEVER once heard anyone mention useing distilled water in their mix. Any time I change coolant, and I need to create a freash mix of antifreeze & water, I ALWAYS go to the grocery store and pick up a gallon or 2 of distilled water. Very cheap - usually less than a buck a gallon. This will not contaminate the cooling system with any minerals which may be present in your tap water. Some parts of the country are worse than others.
Anyone else do this, or is it just me?
Pete
That's a good point Pete...distilled water should always be used when cutting the coolant. Since I'm lazy I buy the pre-dilluted stuff.
BigBlackB250
04-02-2007, 01:54 PM
Well that sounds simple enough! Ram 4 ever tell me more about those plugs in the oil distribution system??
Ram4ever
04-02-2007, 03:22 PM
BigBlackB250 - I don't mean to raise your hopes that these drain plugs are easy to make use of... Oh, what a world that would be... ;)
-We're talking Chrysler here, after all... :D
On the small-block V-8 and 3.9l V-6 engines there are two of the allen head drain plugs at the rear of the engine block - unfortunately this is inside the area of the transmission bell housing, so they require the trans to be removed to access them.
They are located at the top of the bell housing area, one on either side of the large plug at the end of the camshaft. These drain plugs are often so tight (frequently they're staked!) that you have drill them out and retap them.
There are also two pressed in ones at the front of the engine; to even make use of them they *have* to be drilled into and pulled out with a slide hammer and replaced. This would be something you'd really only do during a major overhaul to make sure all of the debris and metal shaving are out, to avoid blocking any narrow oil galleries.
Even the water jacket drain plugs that we discussed earlier will likely be stuck - if you even have the removable ones; many engines only have the freeze-plug type that you have to tap out with a punch, then replace by driving new ones in.
That's not a real scary job, but requires a little effort to make sure you apply some sealant in the bore and on the new plug, and line up the new plug correctly and tap it in straight with a hammer and something like a large socket.
Probably not the answers you were hoping for, but I hope it helps. :gr_patrio
Dodgevanman
04-02-2007, 09:40 PM
There are also block drains on each side of the block. They are hex-headed or square-headed plugs.
BigBlackB250
04-03-2007, 12:15 PM
Sounds like fun to me if i had the necessary tools and space to accomplish this task. So tell me my plan of action is this (tell me if it sounds correct) First im going to discoonect the heater core flush that both directions. Disconnect the top and bottom radiator hose flush that both directions, reconnect top hose pinch off bottom which has a big spring thing in it try removing those drain plugs at least the ones i can get to (which ones can i get to??) seal ere thing back up dump well cut antifeeze in it i also got some quick flush after i hook everything up ill run the engine for ten minutes or so till operating temp, then flush all the rest of the junk out the drain **** which doesnt seem to move too much, thats at the bottom of the radiator isn't it cuz if it is i tryed like removing it and no go don't wanna force it either but thats my plan of action id say an hour and a half to two with no complications.
Ram4ever
04-03-2007, 10:38 PM
That should do a really decent job. I'm not sure, but it might be worth running some of the radiator flush through at the beginning, just to dissolve as much gunk as possible early on. It would have a chance to work on the radiator and heater cores, and probably knock some debris loose which would be best dumped early on. Then proceeding with the water flushing would probably work better, as more of the tiny passages would be further open to the water flushing.
I can't say for sure how accessible the plugs will be on your engine; the cross member, steering linkage and exhaust system will be factors there. Don't knock any plugs out that you'll have a hard time replacing. Try the easiest one first to get a handle on how the work flow will pan out. If by some miracle there's nothing much inside, you may want to skip the rest.
