I have been back to driving the truck again since I blew the engine in the Daytona :VHOT: But it has always had a little bit of a misfire most noticeable at idle. Once you got off idle though you really didn't hear it and the truck ran pretty well, I could hang with a 99 Grand Am. But recently it has a real bad misfiring problem. It will misfire at idle, then when you accelerate from a stop(not even hard since I have to baby it) it'll shake real bad and sometimes even backfires through the carb a few times. Cruising is alright though, don't really notice anything, except if you have to go up a hill or accelerate. It will start it's real bad misfire again. Any ideas?
Second, when it gets wet out (rain/snow) something shorts out and it's as if you pull the light switch one click out so the running lights and dash lights are on. If you do pull the switch one click the running lights and dash lights just get brighter. Where is a place that could get wet and short out something so the running lights come on? The only way to not drain the battery is to unhook it, major inconvenience and a lil embarassing.
Thanks guys!
bherder
01-16-2007, 10:59 PM
Whadda' ya driving again? (Dodge truck)?
impuresoul2k3
01-16-2007, 11:04 PM
Yeah sorry, 1979 Dodge D150, 318 4bbl, 4sp 727. BTW what's the difference between d100 and d150?
77Utiline
01-17-2007, 03:27 AM
I'd bet you are running lean check any vacuum lines for leaks, cracks etc. Also check your exhaust manifold gaskets at the heads.
impuresoul2k3
01-17-2007, 07:35 AM
I've checked the lines, theres only two so it was easy. Theres one going to the distributor and one going to the PCV valve. Why would a bad exhaust manifold gasket do anything?
bherder
01-17-2007, 09:42 AM
It will misfire at idle, then when you accelerate from a stop(not even hard since I have to baby it) it'll shake real bad and sometimes even backfires through the carb a few times. Cruising is alright though, don't really notice anything, except if you have to go up a hill or accelerate. It will start it's real bad misfire again. Any ideas?
I had a prob real similar to that once, it turned out to be plug wires..
Yeah sorry, 1979 Dodge D150, 318 4bbl, 4sp 727. BTW what's the difference between d100 and d150?
The 150 has a bit more beefier suspension.. Basically turning a 1/2 ton into a 3/4 ton. I believe Dodge did this to get around some emission regs at the time.
Second, when it gets wet out (rain/snow) something shorts out and it's as if you pull the light switch one click out so the running lights and dash lights are on. If you do pull the switch one click the running lights and dash lights just get brighter. Where is a place that could get wet and short out something so the running lights come on? The only way to not drain the battery is to unhook it, major inconvenience and a lil embarassing
Man, that's a strange one.... If not for the 'when it gets wet out' part, I'd say headlight switch.. And that might be part of the prob anyway, but I think I'd start looking under the hood real hard to see exactly what is getting wet under there and start examining wiring up close. Good luck, it won't be any fun...
impuresoul2k3
01-17-2007, 06:37 PM
It will misfire at idle, then when you accelerate from a stop(not even hard since I have to baby it) it'll shake real bad and sometimes even backfires through the carb a few times. Cruising is alright though, don't really notice anything, except if you have to go up a hill or accelerate. It will start it's real bad misfire again. Any ideas?
I had a prob real similar to that once, it turned out to be plug wires..
The plug wires were just replaced last year though, they wouldn't wear out that fast would they?
Man, that's a strange one.... If not for the 'when it gets wet out' part, I'd say headlight switch.. And that might be part of the prob anyway, but I think I'd start looking under the hood real hard to see exactly what is getting wet under there and start examining wiring up close. Good luck, it won't be any fun...
Haha you speak the truth, tracing wires is never fun, at least it's fairly simple wiring, as compared to newer cars.
bherder
01-17-2007, 07:53 PM
The plug wires were just replaced last year though, they wouldn't wear out that fast would they?
That's what I thought too... That's also the reason, that was the last thing I looked at. Now, I'm not saying that's what it is, but I learned my lesson about buying 'cheap' plug wires.
Try starting it up and with a nice, big, thick, glove, (Or those fancy plug-wire pliers) pull the plug wires off the cap, one at a time. You should hear a drop in RPM and a little rougher idle.
If you pull a plug wire and notice no difference, start looking at the plug, plug wire, or the terminal in the cap.. (And this is not to discount low or no compression in the cylinder..)
Anywho, again, not saying that's it, but something to look at...
Haha you speak the truth, tracing wires is never fun, at least it's fairly simple wiring, as compared to newer cars.
Yeah, true.... At least ya got that going for you... :D
impuresoul2k3
01-17-2007, 10:28 PM
I have pulled the wires off to see if one of them didn't change (I read about it on almost every car forum I'm on) and it drops when all of them are taken off. I do know the drivers side seems to misfire more than the other side (I have true dual exhaust with no balance tube), but again every wire unplugged causes a change. Also a majority of the time it seems to get better when it warms up. Could timing have anything to do with it? Weak coil?
B-300
01-18-2007, 02:17 PM
Iwould do a compression check. Many years back I had 3 exhaust valves were past the hardened surface seat almost 1/4". The lifters will take up the slack, until the bottom out then you will have a definate miss. When the valves are sinking you will loose compression, and it will show on a compression check.
--B-300--
impuresoul2k3
01-18-2007, 07:24 PM
Actually I think I got it figured out for the most part. I was thinking about why my ignition timing change would've made it this bad when I remembered that I didn't tighten down the distibutor :). I tightened it and noticed that some wires were loose where they attach to the distributor. I opened up the ends a little to connect better and it seems to be doing much better. I could definately be low on compression however, luckily this will get rebuilt sometime this year.
Chump
01-19-2007, 05:02 AM
For the electrical problem, spray the heck out of the firewall bulkhead connector with WD-40...soak it good. Check the headlight switch and connector. check for water leaks that might get to the headlight switch.
impuresoul2k3
01-19-2007, 08:04 AM
Ok, I'll try that as soon as it gets a little warmer, it's pretty damn cold down here now.
Blade Runner
01-19-2007, 07:01 PM
4sp 727.
4 speed 727? Mine's a three speed! lol O.K., seriously though---try the ceramic doohickey on the driver's side of the firewall in the engine compartment. Ballast resistor, that's it!! Mine was acting up to a point similar to yours, and when I replaced it, some of my prob.s went away. I say some, because I had bare wires grounding themselves onto the cab and fried some stuff. Best of luck to ya!
bherder
01-19-2007, 07:53 PM
4 speed 727? Mine's a three speed! lol
Well, it IS a four speed, if you're counting 'reverse' :D :D :D
impuresoul2k3
01-19-2007, 10:51 PM
4 speed 727? Mine's a three speed! lol
Well, it IS a four speed, if you're counting 'reverse' :D :D :D
Actually I do have 4 speeds, or 3 plus Over Drive. No one else believed me either, but I ran it through the gears and you can distinctly feel it shift three times. When this thing shifts at WOT you can feel the back end slide out a little :rck:. This is not the original tranny, it was replaced by a shop when the previous owner had it, I think I still have the warranty card around somewhere. But it is still a 727.
bherder
01-20-2007, 09:21 AM
Actually I do have 4 speeds, or 3 plus Over Drive. No one else believed me either, but I ran it through the gears and you can distinctly feel it shift three times. When this thing shifts at WOT you can feel the back end slide out a little :rck:. This is not the original tranny, it was replaced by a shop when the previous owner had it, I think I still have the warranty card around somewhere. But it is still a 727.
Well that sounds like a rare bird.. ;)
Better hope it never breaks, there might not be anybody who knows how to fix it!
impuresoul2k3
01-20-2007, 02:55 PM
Except that it was from a transmission shop, came with a one year warranty and everything.
sgillett
01-20-2007, 03:28 PM
I'm guessing the 3rd "shift" you are feeling is the converter locking up.
We had a '78 Cordoba and you could really feel the converter lock up after it shifted in to 3rd. I believe all 727s are 3 speeds. It would have to be a 500 or 518 to have overdrive. Gear Vendors sells a separate overdrive, maybe that's what you have.
I have had plug wires go bad in 6 months, they were not very expensive wires.
I don't go cheap on them any more.
California had/has a smog rating (medium duty cycle) for trucks that allowed a little less smog stuff if the GVW was over 6000# so Dodge made the D/W150's GVW 6050# to get away with less smog stuff compared to what a D100 would have needed.
IMHO
Scott
bherder
01-20-2007, 05:48 PM
Except that it was from a transmission shop, came with a one year warranty and everything.
Oh, OK then.... Just don't lose the guy's business card ;)
bherder
01-20-2007, 06:04 PM
I have had plug wires go bad in 6 months, they were not very expensive wires.
I don't go cheap on them any more.
Hey there sgillett....
Heh heh heh ... I guess we all have to learn our lesson on that one, don't we? :D
impuresoul2k3
01-20-2007, 06:13 PM
A converter will really lockup that hard? See if you had told me it the converter was a lockup I would've known ;)
B-300
01-21-2007, 07:34 PM
All 727's are 3spd. In about '78 on cars lock-up convertors were added.
As to the D-100 vs D-150 it's a marketing thing. New trucks are 1500 for 1/2 ton. The same was done on furds and shiveys.
--B-300--
Speed Dragon
01-24-2007, 03:20 PM
Yeah '79 would have a lock-up converter. Same as my Diplomat has , shifts twice, then at 40mph the lock-up engages, does feel like another gear though.
As for your misfire, you may want to check your rocker arms, if the ignition system all checks out.
As for the short, your windshield could be leaking at the bottom corner and dripping onto the light switch. My '72 used to leak, at one time I had an Alpine head unit in it, and when it rained it would get dripped on and turn itself on lol.
BTW impuresoul2k3, nice to see you on here as well as BM. I'm Force Fed Mopar over there. When'd you blow up the 'Tona?
Speed Dragon
01-24-2007, 03:24 PM
I have had plug wires go bad in 6 months, they were not very expensive wires.
I don't go cheap on them any more.
Hey there sgillett....
Heh heh heh ... I guess we all have to learn our lesson on that one, don't we? :D Lol yep, I learned it too. Bought a brand new set of Autolite Pro wires on my Club Cab, went bad in 6 months. Accels seem to do good. Also, Mopar wires are only 50 bucks from the dealer, including a cap and rotor ;)
impuresoul2k3
01-24-2007, 04:18 PM
Small world :) I think it was back in november, for some reason my daytona has a brass fitting connecting the oil distribution deal (has the turbo feed, oil pressure sensor, etc) to the block and this fitting broke twice. First time I was lucky enough to catch it, second time it dumped oil all over the highway and burned the rings to the point where it sounded like a diesel and couldn't go more than 30mph. It will be running soon though I hope
