Can you help me diagnose this?

[ce_gandolfo]

A quick update before I get to my problem. When I got the truck about 6 weeks ago it was leaking from the front diff and the tranny and it was not running all that well. I was told by the previous owner it wouldn't smog. Since then I have replaced the front diff (real fun when the fill plug was cross-threaded), drained the tranny and replaced the filter and gasket, put in a new thermostat, fuel filter and replaced all the plugs. I also tuned the carb a bit.

Here's my new issue-
I have it stored in a warehouse so I can work on it (I only have a carport, no garage) and really haven't moved it since I bought it. I was blocked in by a '40 Ford. Yesterday we were moving some vehicles around to get some out and move me so I can get out easier. The truck won't start without giving it a shot of starting spray. It will run fine in park or neutral, but in gear at idle it limps along badly. It almost feels like it's not running on all cylinders. If I throw it back into park it resumes normal idle. I checked all the plugs and wires at the plugs and distributor, they were fine. The oil pressure is a bit high, but nothing alarming.

My immediate thought is fuel pump. Only because my dad's '57 Chevy pickup acted the same way when it had a bad pump, except his would die in about 10 seconds. Mine will stay running, just very badly! Any other thoughts?

[Mopower79]

Sounds like you got some spark plug wires crossed..

[bherder]

Sounds like you got some spark plug wires crossed..

That's what I was thinking.... even getting one wrong (Which means you got two wrong) makes a world of difference... OR maybe a bad plug wire.

Go over your plug wires for correct firing order, and then go over them again.
If the carb/engine idles/runs fine while in park or neutral and runs like crap when under load, I've been there and done that... I actually replaced a carb, timing chain set/cap/rotor/plugs/pulled the intake to clean the carbon out of the center ports/ once.... All because it idled fine and ran like s**t under load. It turned out to be bad plug wires, which I would have SWORN couldn't have been the problem, because they were only a year old with not very much miles on them..... So much for $30.00 plug wires...

(I'm still kicking myself, btw.... ;) )

On the other hand, as far as the carb goes, the needle and seat might be sticking... Give the carb a few really good raps with the plastic handle of a screwdriver right where the fuel line connects. I've had mine stick shut in the past (When plowing snow and 0 degrees outside) and that had always got me going again....

[ce_gandolfo]

Ah, you know I checked for tight fitting of the wires, I didn't actually make sure they were in the right order. That may solve my starting problem as well. I'll check it on Wednesday and let you know. Thanks for the help!

If I do replace them, I'll pick up a set of these bad boys -
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DCC%2D5007405&N=700+4294908110+4294908080+4294925023+4294925143+ 4294840085+4294839064+115&autoview=sku

[ce_gandolfo]

Well it was a couple of crossed wires. It didn't change the starting problem though.

Oh, and I made a nice little "discovery" - the drain plug on the oil pan is cross threaded and almost completely round, it's so stripped. That's the third cross threaded bolt I have found. First the bolt on the battery terminal clamp, then the front diff filler plug, now this.

So I guess sometime I will drill a hole in the pan to drain it, then drop it and replace the pan. How much of a pain in the ass is that going to be?

[Mopower79]

Well it was a couple of crossed wires. It didn't change the starting problem though

I'd slap a timming light on it... Also... Did you gap the new plugs???

I also tuned the carb a bit.
What carb are you running???... & What did you do when you "tuned it"???


the drain plug on the oil pan is cross threaded and almost completely round, it's so stripped

Can you get the drain pug out & run a tap through it & clean up the threads???

[bherder]

Well it was a couple of crossed wires. It didn't change the starting problem though.

Well, one prob fixed.... :D
Is it just starting it, that's the prob? After it's running and all warmed up, is it OK?

Oh, and I made a nice little "discovery" - the drain plug on the oil pan is cross threaded and almost completely round, it's so stripped. That's the third cross threaded bolt I have found. First the bolt on the battery terminal clamp, then the front diff filler plug, now this.

So I guess sometime I will drill a hole in the pan to drain it, then drop it and replace the pan. How much of a pain in the ass is that going to be?

You can go a couple of different ways on this without dropping the pan...

You can buy oversized, self-tapping drain plugs (Dorman / Motormite / others I imagine) that will cut new threads.. I think they even make some with little magnets in them to catch the shavings...

Or, you can buy drain plugs that are like little rubber freeze plugs.. they're basically like a little rubber stopper that you stick in the drain hole and then tighten a little screw on it, that squeezes the O.D. of the plug out a bit so you get a nice tight grip.


Both ways work pretty good. Or you can drop the pan, which really isn't a lot of fun..

[ce_gandolfo]

I'd slap a timming light on it... Also... Did you gap the new plugs???

Yeah I did gap the new plugs properly, something the previous owner didn't do.


What carb are you running???... & What did you do when you "tuned it"???

It's got a remanufactured Holley 2bbl on it. All I did to "tune" it was adjust the mixture screws and idle. It's not like I ripped into the carb to replace jets or anything. BTW the previous owner said "we leaned it all the way out, but it still won't pass the CO part of the smog test." Well no, they didn't. They had it exactly the opposite.



Can you get the drain pug out & run a tap through it & clean up the threads???

I have one last resort to try to get it out. It's a set of craftsman sockets for rounded off bolts. If that doesn't work...

[ce_gandolfo]

Well, one prob fixed.... :D
Is it just starting it, that's the prob? After it's running and all warmed up, is it OK?

Yeah, it's just cold starting that it has trouble.

You can go a couple of different ways on this without dropping the pan...

You can buy oversized, self-tapping drain plugs (Dorman / Motormite / others I imagine) that will cut new threads.. I think they even make some with little magnets in them to catch the shavings...

Or, you can buy drain plugs that are like little rubber freeze plugs.. they're basically like a little rubber stopper that you stick in the drain hole and then tighten a little screw on it, that squeezes the O.D. of the plug out a bit so you get a nice tight grip.


Both ways work pretty good. Or you can drop the pan, which really isn't a lot of fun..

That's good to know. If I can get it out, I'll look into the self tapping plugs...

[bherder]

Yeah, it's just cold starting that it has trouble

Sounds like a choke issue... And I've been through that also...
See the attachment as to check your choke (If that's the prob... Doesn't hurt to check it anyway :D )
Mainly check to see if:
A: When you set the choke when first starting (Cold) that it's not too open or too shut..
B: That the choke pull off is working..
C: Assuming that you have an electric choke heater, check that it's getting juice to it and working as it should..

So far as your idle mixture screws (I'm getting the feeling that the previous owner was doing everything ass-backwards!)... Well, there is the 'official' method of doing it with some sort of propane hookup, but since most of us are doing these things in a garage, shop or under a tree... ;)
This is how I've always initially set these up.. (If you've got a vacuum gauge, that's even better)
Turn the two idel mix screws in all the way. BE GENTEL... You don't want to damage the taper surface on the needle end of the screw. Turn each one back out 1 to 1 1/2 full turns. Start your rig and get it nice and warmed up..
It should run/idle... Maybe not perfect, but enough to get it all warmed up.

Now if you're doing it by ear,(And you may have to back the screws out a tad more) turn each screw in, one at a time, until the engine juuust starts to bog down a bit. Then back the screw out about 1/2 turn.
This is not the perfect method of doing it, but it'll get you pretty damn close ;)

If you've got a vacuum gauge, you want to set the screws at the maximum vacuum you can get without having them turned out too rich...

AND... (You knew there would be an "and" right?) this is the perfect time to set your idle RPM and timing, because these things all have an effect on the other. In fact you may have to go around in a circle 3-4 times adjusting one, then the next, then the next... But after a little time spent, you should have it tits-on...

Anywho, that's how I do it, although I'm sure there are better ways and if there is... Somebody speak up! 'Old Dogs' can learn new tricks! :D


That's good to know. If I can get it out, I'll look into the self tapping plugs...

I've yet to meet any kind of drain plug that didn't yield to my 15" vise-grips ;)

[ce_gandolfo]

Thanks for the info on tuning it. I'll probably work on it this weekend. Although I don't know the first thing about timing lights. Any help would be greatly appreciated.