wire specs

[Megunticook]

As I work on various parts of the electrical system I want to replace wiring. But I'm not sure how to interpret some of the codes in the wiring diagram in my factory service manual.

I get the gauge and color fine, but some wires are prefixed with codes I don't know how to interpret. Can somebody enlighten me please?

For example, the wire from the alternator to the battery is labeled "A20-10BK." What does the A20 specify?

The field wires are labelled "J10B-18RE" and "A3-18LG"--again, what do those first letter/number combinations indicate?

Thanks.

And where do you go to get high-quality wire, connectors, terminals, sleeves, etc.? Any good online options?

[77Utiline]

The first combination of letters/ numbers are the junction/ wire identifiers.

[Dodgevanman]

I believe that labels the circuit so as you are looking through the diagrams you can ID the circuits from one page to another.

[GHS]

As I work on various parts of the electrical system I want to replace wiring. But I'm not sure how to interpret some of the codes in the wiring diagram in my factory service manual.

I get the gauge and color fine, but some wires are prefixed with codes I don't know how to interpret. Can somebody enlighten me please?

For example, the wire from the alternator to the battery is labeled "A20-10BK." What does the A20 specify?

The field wires are labelled "J10B-18RE" and "A3-18LG"--again, what do those first letter/number combinations indicate?

Thanks.

And where do you go to get high-quality wire, connectors, terminals, sleeves, etc.? Any good online options?

I don't know what specifically you are looking for, but "J" normally signifies that the wire terminates in a main connector. The letter "A" usually means a terminal block. If you follow the wires out, you will probably find that J10 is a connector and it goes to the B side.

I've never dealt with either of these companies, but it's a place to start.

http://waytekwire.com/
http://www.candlepowerinc.com/

[Howard78]

I think that Dodgevanman is correct. The first part of the designation is the circuit number, so that you can follow it through the various parts of the vehicle.(i.e. eng compartment, under dash, chassis, etc.)
As far as components go, MadElectrical advertises connectors. Where I used to live there was an Ace Hardware that sold non-insulated terminals, which is what you really need. But all Ace Hardwares are not equal ;) From what I have learned is that you need non-insulated crimp terminals, which are bare metal crimp-on type connectors. You slip a peice of shrink wrap on to the wire before hand, crimp the the connector with a crimping tool, then solder it. One of those portable butane type soldering irons seems to be the ideal. Then tape it up with electrictrical tape, slide the heat shrink tubing on, and heat it to shrink it, with a lighter. Sounds much better than just using the standard Scotchlock crimp on type connectors. But, then again for non high-current carrying circuits, the scotchlock types should work just fine.
I am going through the same process. I am going to use the above method for any high current connections, like the alternator circuit. But for other connections, I think the standard Sta-con/Scotchlock connectors are OK.

[Megunticook]

Thanks for clearing that up--I managed to pick up some uninsulated connectors and some shrink tubing, will break out my soldering iron and see what I can do.

[Chump]

Yes, they are the circuit indentifiers. Whats nice is once you get used to them they are the same for many years. Example...when looking at the rear tail and stop lights..the stoplights/directionals will be a "D" circuit and the tail lights will be an "L" circuit. If you need help, I've wired Mopar for years, just holler.
www.kayjayco.com

[Megunticook]

Thanks, Chump. I looked at your site, learned a lot. I'm putting in an order for some wire right now--10 gauge SXL for my alternator BATT output and some other wire too.

Do you have the solder-type connectors?

Can you solder crimp connectors? For example, a ring terminal that would go on the end of the wire that fastens to the alternator BATT terminal?

[Howard78]

Yeah they got all kinds, ring, straight, spade,etc. You might even be able to crack the insulator off a regular insulateed crimp, but I haven't tried it yet.

[bherder]

Yeah they got all kinds, ring, straight, spade,etc. You might even be able to crack the insulator off a regular insulateed crimp, but I haven't tried it yet.

I yank the insulators off of 'crimp' type connectors all the time...

Can you solder crimp connectors?

Yup. I do it all the time. I take the insulators off, crimp them, solder them and then shrink-tube them.

[Chump]

Thanks, Chump. I looked at your site, learned a lot. I'm putting in an order for some wire right now--10 gauge SXL for my alternator BATT output and some other wire too.

Do you have the solder-type connectors?

Can you solder crimp connectors? For example, a ring terminal that would go on the end of the wire that fastens to the alternator BATT terminal?

Thx for the compliment but I do not run/own that site.:)
I have all sorts of original type crimp terminals here at the house if you need something. Be glad to send you some. the brass terminals at the firewall bulkhead connector are actually made by Packard Electrical Division(PED) which is/was part of GM. with any terminal you want to crimp it first for a good mechanical connection and then if you want you can solder it lightly and use heat shrink over the crimp part of the terminal.
You are working on a 73?

[Chump]

If you want a real good pair of crimpers (#1006) for uninsulated terminals these are made by Klein Tools and can be found for under $25 and sometimes unde $20. They will last a lifetime.

[Chump]

A couple of Packard terminals...

[bherder]

If you want a real good pair of crimpers (#1006) for uninsulated terminals these are made by Klein Tools and can be found for under $25 and sometimes unde $20. They will last a lifetime.

Oh, you are SOOOOO right! Those are the best crimpers I've ever bought/used.... Probably the best $20.00 tool I ever stuck in the ol' tool chest.

I've tried, time and time again to tell my buddies that those squishy $7.99 hunks of junk they buy at Rat Shack are hunks of junk, but... Well...

[77Utiline]

I personally prefer these cause you get the same crimp everytime:

[zerko]

I have the same pair of crimpers. Love them. The nice thing, is they will hold the terminal while putting the wire in.

[77Utiline]

I've got a pair for insulated and non-insulated/ Deutsch/ Weather-pack. I plan on the getting the plug wire set next (although I should have just got the jaw set it would've been cheaper lol). I won't use anything else unless I have to.

[Chump]

That's not the only set I have, I suggested those for people who are on a budget, for $20 they hold the terminal while you insert the wire too...I have 13 crimpers worth about $2300 and always adding more. You can't crimp most "factory" type wiring harness terminals unless you have the proper crimpers. The universal crimpers with die sets will not produce the same results and will not work on the Packard type terminals pictured in the above post.

[77Utiline]

That's what I love about these type of crimps, they are able to crimp just about any type of connector. You can get the whole shooting match crimp handles dies etc. for around $70 on ebay other wise the multi die kit runs about $150. I've had nothing but great results with these and for me I'll probably never use anything else. That's just me though.