Fuel rail replacement...Any how to tips?

[aftermidnight]

Hi! I have a 93 Grand Caravan SE 3.3L and the fuel rail is leaking at the seams where it curves. How difficult is it to replace? I looked through 53 pages here and didn't see any mention of the fuel rail. I tried using JB Weld twice, but that hasn't held more than a few months...I know, bad idea, but I had to try it. So what's involved in replacing the rail? I've never messed with fuel injectors. By looking at it, it appears the intake manifold (the silver item with the 3.3L stamped on it...not sure if that's called a manifold) that has the throttle body attached to it needs to come off, along with the coil pack, and alternator bracket. Anything else? Will I be able to lift the intake up slightly to gain access to the rail, or does it need to come off completely? How many bolts hold on that intake...I see 3 in the front, are there ones in the back I didn't see? Do the gaskets need to replaced for the intake? I was told by the parts dept via em that I will need 12 injector O-rings, 1 set of FPR O-rings, and 2 fuel rail connectors. Is that right? Do the injectors just pull out attached to the rail when I pull off the rail or should I take the clips loose where the injectors attach to the rail, leave the injectors in place and then remove the rail? The fuel lines look to be crimped on to the rail. If I get a used rail, could I splice into the rubber fuel lines that are right before those connectors with an in-line connector instead of messing with the crimped connectors being I don't have a crimper tool?

The new rail is $220. I found a used fuel rail on eBay that comes with the injectors (the rail was suppposedly new a year ago) for $50. Would that be a good route to go maybe?

Thanks in advance for any help and/or advice!

[Jedi]

the upper intake manifold looks like it needs to come off, and you should go ahead and get the gasket for it. The parts list the dealer gave you is probably presuming none of the rings and gaskets and such are re useable.
Don't try to splice the fuel lines IMHO-the pressure is incredible going through the lines and if they should come apart at the splice it's going to ruin your day.

My suggestion to you is go get a manual for your van, as it will spell out the procedure and the proper disassembly/reassembly sequence. Plan on about a day to fix it.

[aftermidnight]

Thanks Jedi! I take it it's a fairly big job then being it'll take a day and I'll need a manual? Which manual is the "Bible" for Dodge? I have the FSM's for my Cadillac (Helms I believe) while the Haynes for Cadillacs are known to be lacking.

Honestly, I hate to spend a lot on a manual for this van as it's probably on it's last leg and is needing quite a few repairs. But I will do what I have to do to get her running.

So is there a crimping tool for the fuel line or? If so, I wonder if anyone rents it?

[mfahey]

You may be able to find what you need at your local library. Ours has complete sets of Mitchells that gives you everything you need.
I just removed(virtually same thing as replacing) the rail on my Bonneville. I did wind up buying a set of tools made specifically for disconnecting the fuel lines from the rail.
On my car, I had to remove the rail so that I could get the supercharger off so that in turn, I could replace the lower intake manifold gasket. It all sounds like a big job but was actually very straight forward as long as you took your time.

[Jedi]

I have used both chilton's and Haynes in the past, both are pretty good for the DIY'er in my opinion.

[aftermidnight]

Chiltons and Haynes are ok for simple repairs, but fail in comparison to the Helm manuals when it comes to technical details, troubleshooting trees and model specific issues. If you've ever seen them, you know I mean. I have a Helm 2 volume set for my caddy and they are 2-3" thick each. They are the Factory Service Manuals the caddy dealerships use.

Which manuals do the Dodge dealership mechanics use? I'll try to find those at the library...didn't even think to try there. Thanks!

[RickMN]

Nothing beats Alldata for a manual. It's $25 and it gives you everything you need, including technical service bulletins.

So, what you need to know here is that the upper mainfold is called the plenum. You can unbolt it, but you'll never get it off unless you remove the windshield wiper assembly first. That's right, the whole assembly has to come off. Remove the wiper arms, then the Torx screws holding the plastic panel in place. There are two phillips screws that have to twist 1/4 turn and then the plastic panel comes off. Disconnect the washer supply tube and lift the panel off. Then, remove the 10mm nuts that hold the brackets. Then, remove the 13mm bolts that hold the wiper tub to the firewall. Then remove the entire wiper assembly. You won't believe how much room you have to work now. If you don't do the wiper assem removal first, you'll be swearing like crazy. You'll have more bruised knuckles than, well, Brutus.

Then, disconnect the air duct from the throttle body, the vacumm hoses, the throttle linkage, the EGR supply tube, the plenum support bracket, and then the plenum. Once the plenum is off, you can get to the fuel rail. Cover the intake manifold with rags so you don't drop anything down the holes.

Get a complete set of fuel injector O-rings and a new plenum gasket before you start the job. Once you remove the bolts that hold the fuel rail in place, you can pull out the injectors and replace the o rings. Use a synthetic grease to help get the injector back into the new rubber rings. Then, start the reassembly. You'll need the torque pattern for the plenum bolts and the torque specs. This isn't something you should guess at. If you haven't got a torque wrench, don't start the job. Uneven torque is a great way to get air leaks that will give you lean codes--which means you 'll have to do the plenum all over again.

Finally, put the wiper assembly back in place.

Are you having fun yet? I can do the wiper assembly in about 10 minutes now. First time took me an hour.

[aftermidnight]

Thanks for the info Rick! Yes, sounds like fun! I'll have to get a manual for that plenum torque sequence then. Yes, I have a 2 torque wrenches. I hope it's not inch pounds though, don't have one of those. So what about the fuel lines where they connect to the fuel rail, what's involved there? Do I need those fuel line ends and the tools to put them on? Is it a crimping tool or what? And the alternator bracket, will that move out of the way w/o removing/loosening the serp belt, no big deal, was just curious?

edit: Rick, I was just looking at it, are you sure the wiper assembly has to come out....'93 Grand Caravan SE 3.3? Does the wiper motor get in the way lifting out the plenum? And how do you get the fuel lines off/loose from the fuel rail? They're metal ends that appear to be crimped on.

So do I lift fuel rail off with the injectors still attached to the rail? What brand/type of synthetic grease do you recommend for the injector o-rings?

Thanks!

[aftermidnight]

edit

[RickMN]

Oh, that's right, it's a 93. You might not have to do the wiper assem removal on that one. That's the older body style--a little more room under the hood.

Plenum bolt torque is 21 ft/lbs.

Plenum bolt loosening and tightening sequence is, as you look at it from the radiator 4-2-1-3.

Alldata says to lubricate o-rings with clean engine oil.

As far as which to pull first, the manual doesn't list a preference. But I think it's easier to pull the rail first, even though you're going to get gas leakage.

Just be very careful when reinstalling the injectors so you don't damage the o rings.

[aftermidnight]

Thanks Rick! Is there any way you could post or email me the links to the pages referring to the fuel rail R&R? Or I could give you my email and maybe send me copes of the pages? That would sure be nice. I wonder where that 4th bolt is on the plenum...I see only 3. Maybe it's under the coil pack that is fastened on the passenger side of the plenum, or towards the rear?

What does it say about the fuel lines?

I wonder why they recommend engine oil...petroleum products are known to be bad for rubber...causes rubber to swell.

Btw, I missed that auction yesterday for the 1yr old fuel rail. Someone used the buy-it-now while I was talking with the seller via email. *sigh* There's another that looks to be an original - 13 yrs old - for $35. Not sure I want to go that route, and he gives no warranty that it doesn't leak.

Thanks Rick! I really appreciate your help!

[mfahey]

I believe the O-rings are viton which are resistant to oil.