I just got a 1990 W150S 4x4 with a 318. It doesn't appear to have a whole heck of a lot of power. I can floor it from a stand still and it won't break traction. I need to give 1/2-3/4 gas to get up a hill (not a huge hill, just an incline). My s10 with 115hp 4 cylinder has more power (granted it much lighter).
Last weekend i changed the following. Cap - spark plugs - plug wires - oil - oil filter - air filter. I did not change the rotor as i'm a chevy guy (first dodge) and i don't have a clue how to get it off. It looks like it just pops off, but i can't get it off. Any clues?
How can i tell if it is really lacking power, or is that just how much power they came with stock? It does not feel like 170hp to me... I've owned quite a few cars and it just doesn't feel right to me. I have never owned any rear wheel drive car that if it's floored from a stand still it won't break traction.
Here are some of the things that i was thinking... Clogged Cat? Fuel Filter dirty? Possible Sensor bad?
If anyone could offer some insight i would greatly appricate it.
Thanks,
Brian
Zeker
12-01-2006, 07:55 PM
I feel your pain Brian. I laugh every time I see the "power ram" badge on the fender. More like NO power ram... I had the same questions as you and I did the same tune-up stuff. A helpful diagnostic tool is a fuel pressure guage teed into the fuel line feeding the throttle body. I mounted a small one outside the windshield where I could monitor it while driving. Found out I had very little pressure. Replaced pump and fuel filter and it ran very well, but still had a real energy crisis. I know that my cat is plugged (I can hear it hissing away when I step on it) but I can't get really excited about fixing it when I know it still won't spin the tires.... Unlike your GM, you could have trouble codes stored that just aren't flashing at the moment. Cycle your ignition key to get the trouble light to flash you the codes. My speed sensor and intake air temp sensor were shot. Driveability is much better now, just no power....
Zeke
Chump
12-02-2006, 03:52 AM
I would do a compression check as my starting point and post the results here.
zerko
12-03-2006, 12:54 AM
I've had an 89 2wd, and my current 88 4x. Both of which are very gutless! My dad was a Chrysler mechanic for almost 30years. He said that when they went TBI ( see my sign off comments!) in 88, you couldn't get a truck to lay rubber any more. Anyone I know of who has an EFI motor will tell you the same. Check your fuel pressure, should be a constant 14.5psi . The rotor does just PULL off. Note: if it is a Black one, it gas the smaller shaft. Most kits come with the bigger White rotor. Have you ever counted the codes before? If not, we can tell you how. Just let us know.
cavi311
12-03-2006, 08:41 AM
All - thanks for your assistance. To answer some of your questions to me
1) No i have never counted the codes. Could you point me to a link on how to do this?
2) I will check compression and fuel pressure. Vacuum checked out fine at 18 hg at idle.
3) ROTOR - Yes i have the small black one. I cannot get the thing off. Does it need to be pointing a certain way to pop off (like to number 1 cylinder or anything like that)? I even tried getting it off with a wrench and it still wouldn't budge. I'll have to give it a try again. Maybe it's just stuck on there good.
Thanks again.
zerko
12-03-2006, 11:29 PM
The rotor doesn't have to point a certain way to remove it. It will only go back on one way though. It is just a press fit by hand. Maybe the Hulk put it on last!
Counting codes: Cycle key switch 3 times- on ( forwards 2 clicks)/off. On third time, leave in on position. The check engine light will begin to flash. Example: ( f=flash)
f-f pause f-f-f, long pause f-f-f pause f-f-f-f-f, so on......
This would be codes 23, and 35. Make sense?
If the engine light does't start flashing, do key 3 times, and leave on- on 4th time forwards. Some codes may always show up, but, depending on vehicle options, may not apply to your vehicle. Just disregard them. Here are the codes. Make yourself a folder on your computer and save these. I have one for everything I scan. Big help, for me and everyone else.
zerko
12-03-2006, 11:33 PM
Here are the codes.
88D250
12-04-2006, 06:36 PM
Zerko, NOT ALL 88s had TBI. my 88 D250 2x4 will spin the tires all you want or can stand if you are having to buy them.
Zeker
12-05-2006, 08:04 AM
You have a 360. They didn't come with TBI in 88. How do you find the fuel economy??
boogity24
12-08-2006, 07:41 AM
just take off the TBI, put a holley on it and you'll be good to go, thats what i did to my dodge, it'll lay down rubber even with 3.23 gears and 33s
zerko
12-08-2006, 05:21 PM
What did you do about the distributor? Go old school?
boogity24
12-09-2006, 12:20 AM
yep, i got the old mopar tan cap on mine, i went and got a 2bbl. manifold off a old dodge van, and put that on it......screw computers
Zeker
12-09-2006, 10:47 AM
Hey Boogity, any idea what the cam is like in the EFI engines?? I would think that even with a carb it would be a dog. So you really got a big boost just by changing to a 2 barrel carb??
boogity24
12-10-2006, 06:39 PM
oh yeah, i forgot to say, i changed the cam when i went to the carb. setup, and i originally had a edelbrock 750 on it, but found it sucked way too much gas, so i found an old 2bbl. and manifold, and found that it actually ran better, but gas mileage still sucks.....10mpg.....:(, but is definetly a better performer w/ carb.
zerko
12-10-2006, 09:56 PM
Did you use the electric fuel pump, or mechanical style? Also, the cam you put in, was it for 2 or 4bbl, and what type?
zerko
12-11-2006, 10:04 PM
Was looking in my 89 manual, and found that the stock cam for an 89, 318, the cam
is a #5. Anyone got a clue as what the specs on this #5 may be?
threetwos
12-12-2006, 10:57 AM
You guys have all been thru what I went thru 10 years ago, yes there is a lack of power with the useless electric two-barrel,(T.B. infection), I yanked that 360 outa there and sold it to a guy who just wanted to put an old Dodge back on the road. BTW, guys those heads on the 88-91 TBI 360s with casting number ending in 308 last three numbers, are the best heads since the W-2s no joke, they have skinny intake ports and great exhaust port. A bowl blend and back cut intake valves and those heads will support 500 H.P.! Now, to let anyone interested I have a JET computer upgrade for the T.B.I. I will sell cheap. Its claim is 5-10% power increase, I would say 5% is about right. No it wont result in neck snapping six pack like performance, but it helps a little bit especially throttle response. I went with a new 380/360 5.9 Mag. crate engine back in 98. It has a lot more power for sure!
