At 30+k miles I had differential Clutch plate break in half on my '99 4x4 Ram 1500 Sport. This was indicated by rear-end shudder on take-offs. Had it repaired. Now at 70k miles, the shuddering is back. How common is this?
When I bought it new, I complained to the dealer about the hard clunking in the drive train when put in reverse. They said it is just play and it's normal. It feels excessive to me. I wonder if is contributing to the breaking clutch plate(s).
Lately the "play" has been causing low speed clunks shifting into second. it happens when I start to accelerate then coast prior to the 2nd gear shift point.
The torque converter was replaced at 10k too. I'm loosing faith and tinkering with the idea of trading in for a Ford.
Any comments or advice on my Ram would be appreciated. Thanks
uv0560
04-19-2002, 10:20 AM
Turns out they replaced pinion rings, not clutch plates, sorry.
kirkyg
04-19-2002, 03:44 PM
This was all covered under warranty right? Sorry you had to deal with those problems...ive had my own problems with my 2001 :(
kirkyg
uv0560
04-22-2002, 01:17 PM
I just got my Ram back from the shop for the shuddering. It was still under the 12 month work warrenty from the last time. Appearantly Chrystler eliminated the 12k mi limitation (good for them).
The mech said it's been 17k since the differential fluid was changed with a 15k change recommendation. He also said that it was taking 90 ft/lbs for the rear end to break free (whatever that means). He said the norm is about 35 ft/lbs.
The inspected the differentcial guts and replaced the fluid. Well see if this doesn't take care of it.
I was also told that the 2nd gear clunk was normal when the load is removed (coasting) right before shift point. Still don't think clunking is a good thing.
kirkyg
04-22-2002, 02:15 PM
thats bullcrap you shouldnt' have to change your differencial fluids but every like 50k...
kirkyg
captharv
05-14-2002, 01:20 PM
Thats correct about the 50K fluid change, unless you use the truck "heavy duty" which includes towing heavy trailers.
I tow about 8K# trailer. I change the fluid every 20K miles.
If you have limited slip, be sure that you use the dodge 'friction modifier" in the fluid. The rear end will make clunking sounds, vibrate and funny noises (not related to human rear ends)( Sorry, couldnt resist..).
I have problems with mine and after adding the modifier, noises went away.
Also check the U-Joints in the rear axle. they could also have the same symptoms.
Captharv
uv0560
05-14-2002, 07:47 PM
It's been two weeks since they changed the diff. fluid and it seems to have done the trick. But why the 15k mi fluid changes? I don't do haul much of anything, other than dirt bike once in a while.
I do do a lot of higher speed (70mph) freeway driving (yes that's the speed limit). I'm guessing that's a part of it.
kirkyg
05-14-2002, 09:07 PM
I put 33k on my old truck without a fluid change for the diff. and had not a sound come from it.
kirkyg
Birdman
06-06-2002, 11:25 PM
I would definetely do the fluid change at least every 20000 miles. I do it sooner than that.
Two reasons.If you have a gear ratio over 3.92 you are generating a tremendous amont of heat in the rear end. Aside from the fact that you may have a posi with clutches generating heat as well. Crawl under your truck after a good haul someday and see what I mean. The other reason is to save your bearings. If you rebuild you rear end yourself and buy all the repair parts, you are looking at about $300.00 just for the bearings alone! Not to mention a good days work under your truck. Been there done that.
Beside would you let your motor oil go that long? The rear diff is the most neglected part on most any vehicle. I change mine regulary at every 4th oil change. You may be surprised to see how dirty your diff fluid gets in 12000 miles. If they say 15000 miles I can understand it.
Another problem with the 9 1\4" was at the factory. This basic model has been around since the late 70's and Chrysler still cant seem to get but about 10% of them set up right at the plant. If you are lucky you got one of these. If you have ever installed a new set of gears you know what I mean about the work involved. No two cases are identical. The gear sets arent even identical. They are made matched sets. With all these variables into play its a wonder that half the vehicles out there dont have diff problems.
I know my truck came out of the factory with the gears not set up right from day one. It wasnt till my pinion bearings failed and I dug into the rear end for the repair that I found this out. I rebuilt the entire unit hub to hub and when reinstalling evreything found that the factory preload shim was the wrong one. My gear depth was too far out and caused running out on the ring gear which overstressed the pinion bearings and eventually burned them out. Aside from that I also found that the factory set the backlash at .017 and it should have been in the area of .005 .008". That causes decel noise and sometimes accel noise for any of you who have it. And the gear was even marked .008'. Most gears sets have the backlash marked on the ring gear from the machining when they were made. Its not a stamp but a written mark from the guy who put them together as a matched set from the shop. This was before the case was even a part of the equation in setting up the whole differential.
So can you can see why they recommend a change at 15000 miles now?
They know the specs on the gears is way out and causes the excessive heat in the rear end which will eventually degrade the oil to a useless state. Most rear diffs generate a moderate amount of heat anyway just because of the nature of the gears and the helixes that bind them together.
If you know anyone who knows how to check your gears and bearings...DO IT!
It could save you alot of money and in my case time too.
