I believe I need to replace the ujoint assembly right in front of the transfer case on the front drive shaft. My truck just started making a rythmic noise (speed varies the noise). Anyway I got under there and started looking and it looks like the ujoints have worn away a bit. The problem is, it looks like the front ujoint bit is a double ujoint assembly. I'm not sure what it's actually called which is part of the reason I'm having a hard time finding the part. Suppose someone could pick out a part number for me at rockauto.com or someplace similar?
Is there an aftermarket solution to this that might be better? -- in the photo attached it's the bottom end of the shaft. That double u-joint bit. Do I need to replace the whole axle? If that's the case, how long can I run the truck without damaging it without the front axle installed at all?
bherder
05-04-2006, 08:21 PM
That's the CV joint... Pretty easy to do, as long as you do things in the right order. All the parts for rebuilding should be easy to find at most any parts store.. The important thing to remember is to make sure everything goes back together exactly the way it came apart... As in all your centerlines for yokes, u-joints, etc all lining up...
(PM me with you're email address.... I've been trying all afternoon to upload the jpg's I made out of my Haynes manual that shows how/what to do, and it just won't upload for whatever reason..)
chadk
05-04-2006, 10:07 PM
AH, CV Joints. Yep, I found a site that did the rebuild on a Jeep, should be fairly similar. I'll have to figure out what parts I need and get them. I'd like to get a bit of an upgrade while I'm doing it anyway. I don't mind spending a little extra for some heavy duty greaseable ball joints. Probably worth it in the long run.
Found the 4x2 part time conversion at summit"racing".com
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MMK%2D603&N=400059+115&autoview=sku $479 for the Mile Marker part #603
red83150
05-05-2006, 08:10 AM
The ujoints can be bought at advance auto or autozone. We used the Brute Force ones in mine. Be sure to mark every thing before you take it apart. I'll try to see if I can find the recipts tonight with the part numbers
chadk
05-05-2006, 01:02 PM
Does this look right? It's for a w200 since most parts sites don't seem to know wtf a w100 is.
A1 CARDONE Part # 659319
Front; w/4,500 lb. Front Axle Full Time 4WD {[Driveshaft/Prop Shaft Assembly] Reman.**
chadk
05-05-2006, 09:19 PM
Hmm is the w200 driveshaft assembly interchangeable with the w100? I need to get a driveshaft ordered or get a rebuild kit for this double cardan joint. Is the part number for the axle I quoted above (which is from rockauto) the correct one?
-- Also, a bit more info on my front shaft. The shaft wiggles if I try turning it by hand, I can get it to move a little bit on both the u-joints and the piece that goes into the transfer case that the cardan joint is bolted to. I wonder if I have some problem with the internals in the transfer case? Maybe the chain is out of whack? Is it fairly easy to change that chain? I imagine the slop in the front driveshaft has caused the issue with the transfer case. Hard to say. Still would like to know if I can just remove the front driveshaft for a while and drive it on just the back wheels?
swami2806
05-05-2006, 10:05 PM
did you try W150?
red83150
05-06-2006, 08:53 AM
You can drive it with out front driveshaft, but not recomended. Its very hard on the transfer case. Just leave it in 4 HI/LOC. I have heard real bad news from people who have done that for long periods of time.
bherder
05-06-2006, 09:12 AM
You can drive it with out front driveshaft, but not recomended. Its very hard on the transfer case. Just leave it in 4 HI/LOC. I have heard real bad news from people who have done that for long periods of time.
Really? What happens? I was thinking about dropping the front driveshaft on mine during spring/summer hoping to get 2-3 extra mpg out of it. I would think it'd be easier in the TC as there's less of a load on it, but I really don't know....
red83150
05-06-2006, 11:03 PM
The 203 has a set up like a limited slip rear end. When you are in 4Hi it sends power to the wheels with least resistance. In 4Hiloc its a 50/50 split. If theres no resistance on the front yoke, its real hard on the parts inside and in a short time it can cause excessive wear inside the case including the chain.
chadk
05-08-2006, 08:23 AM
Will the front driveshaft from a w200 fit a w100? What about from a w150? I'm going to just get a new driveshaft but am having a hard time finding one.
bherder
05-08-2006, 08:39 AM
The 203 has a set up like a limited slip rear end. When you are in 4Hi it sends power to the wheels with least resistance. In 4Hiloc its a 50/50 split. If theres no resistance on the front yoke, its real hard on the parts inside and in a short time it can cause excessive wear inside the case including the chain.
Ahhhh....... OK, gotcha'.... Thanks, you probably just saved me some $$$ :D
bherder
05-08-2006, 09:17 AM
Will the front driveshaft from a w200 fit a w100? What about from a w150? I'm going to just get a new driveshaft but am having a hard time finding one.
I'm not sure, so don't quote me.... I'm gonna guess that a 100, 150, and some 200's are the same. I'm just guessing now. I looked in my Haynes book and couldn't find anything. From what I understand a 150 is just a 100 with a beefed up suspension, so as to make it a higher tonage rig, thereby getting around some of the emission standards at the time. It's VERY probable that the front axle in a 100 and 150 are the same.
I looked at partsamerica.com and a front driveshaft assembly for a 150 is
#659710
A 200 uses #659710 for a 3,500 lb axle and # 659319 for a 4,500 lb axle. I'm assuming the difference is whether you have a Spicer or a Dana front axle.
Well, all that isn't going to matter to you really, as I've never seen a 100/150 come from the factory with a Dana front axle. (Doesn't mean it didn't happen, but this isn't my area of expertise ;) )
Are you ordering a shaft from a local parts store? I'd order one for a 150 and when it gets there just match it up with your old one. You've already got it pulled and you'll be trading in the core anyway.... That would be the road I'd take, although there might be better suggestions...
chadk
05-08-2006, 09:32 AM
Are you sure I don't have a dana front end? I was almost positive it was Dana, though on the ends of the u-joints it looks like there's an "S" stamped.
bherder
05-08-2006, 09:59 AM
Are you sure I don't have a dana front end? I was almost positive it was Dana, though on the ends of the u-joints it looks like there's an "S" stamped.
Hmm. Beats me. Like I say, this is not my area of expertise (If I even have one at all ;) ).....
Take a couple of pics and post them. I'll bet somebody knows.
From my limited knowledge, the Dana's have an oval (almost round) shaped cover and the Spicers have a sorta' diamond shaped cover
Also, for what it's worth, the pic of the driveshaft you posted looks exactly like mine, 79' W-150 with a Spicer front axle...
chadk
05-08-2006, 11:36 AM
I'll just pull my driveshaft and post photos. I had it halfway out the other day then I ran out of time and bolted it back up. lol I'll pull it out. I'll get to the bottom of this. Thanks for your advice and the photos, wonder why nobody else is stepping in to offer advice? There has to be a couple more people around here with a 79 w100.. :)
red83150
05-09-2006, 07:47 AM
w150's came with Dana 44's
bherder
05-09-2006, 08:55 AM
Check these sites out.... Should clear it up (I think) ;)
Ok.. where do I find out what numbers I need for u-joints?
I see something like this:
Waterproof U-Joint For Spicer 5-153X, 5-785X, & 5-786X
What's the 5-153x, 5-785x, etc., Where do I look up those numbers to find out which ones I need? -- I really like figuring this stuff out and doing it myself and appreciate everyone's help with my questions!
75 Power Wagon
05-11-2006, 10:29 AM
the ujoints you have should have the numbers on them... otherwise, you might want to check a service manual.
